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  1. #1
    Active Member Two Rings
    Join Date
    Aug 15 2014
    AZ Member #
    275092
    Location
    Ann Arbor, MI, USA

    Crank, no start issue. Thinking fuel pump.

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    Car was driving fine Friday going to work. Parked it there all day, then tried to start it. It cranks and cranks strong, but doesn't fire. Went back yesterday checked the codes - no codes - and she fired right up . So I took it for an extended test drive, and did notice a couple times there was a hesitation in power delivery, but other than that no issue. This morning again cranks but no start and again no codes

    I'm leaning toward fuel pump, since I heard a pulsing noise and not a hum. Does anyone know what pins supply power to the fuel pump (positive/negative)? I would like to jump it directly to test it.

  2. #2
    Active Member Two Rings
    Join Date
    Aug 15 2014
    AZ Member #
    275092
    Location
    Ann Arbor, MI, USA

    Seems to be the pump. Whacked on the top of the housing with a baseball bat, and she fired right up.

    For future reference, it seems that pin 1 (green yellow) is positive, and pin 4 (brown) is negative. I was getting twelve volts here but no gas delivery to the fuel rail.

  3. #3
    Active Member Two Rings
    Join Date
    Aug 15 2014
    AZ Member #
    275092
    Location
    Ann Arbor, MI, USA

    By the way, does anyone know any alternatives to the 8E0906087R fuel pump + housing? $350-$400 seems steep for just a motor. In my previous D2 A8, we could source just the motor from Europe and reuse the housing.

  4. #4
    Veteran Member Four Rings MMMB00ST_A4's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 31 2009
    AZ Member #
    40586
    Location
    NC

    Symptoms definitely pointed to fuel pump, or a fueling related issue. Just for future reference if someone stumbles onto this thread.

    Options:

    1. ECS once posted that the MKIV 1.8t fuel pump looked quite similar and was potentially a cheaper replacement(you could call to inquire about specifications on each pump)
    2. WolfAuto sells them for $100 bucks if you can "Band-Aid" your way around for a week or two
    3. Upgrade to a less expensive in-tank fuel pump
    4. Obvious option; Buy an OEM pump from the $350 reseller you've already located

    Good Luck.
    -B
    -Brandon

    APR | Oettinger | KW | iForged | Evolution Racewerks | Labree | Carbinio

    12.9@104mph

  5. #5
    Veteran Member Four Rings JimmyBones's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 03 2010
    AZ Member #
    57098
    Location
    Northern Virginia

    An easier way to test if you are getting fuel to the rail is to disconnect the line at the rail, put the end of the line into an empty container, and have someone crank the engine.

    Most likely your fuel filter is clogged up and it is causing the pump to work harder than usual. I would try replacing your fuel filter if you haven't already and then see if the problem persists. A fuel filter is much cheaper than a fuel pump. If you do this early enough then you can save the pump.

  6. #6
    Active Member Two Rings
    Join Date
    Aug 15 2014
    AZ Member #
    275092
    Location
    Ann Arbor, MI, USA

    Quote Originally Posted by JimmyBones View Post
    An easier way to test if you are getting fuel to the rail is to disconnect the line at the rail, put the end of the line into an empty container, and have someone crank the engine.

    Most likely your fuel filter is clogged up and it is causing the pump to work harder than usual. I would try replacing your fuel filter if you haven't already and then see if the problem persists. A fuel filter is much cheaper than a fuel pump. If you do this early enough then you can save the pump.
    Filter was replaced 5k miles ago (sorry forgot to mention). Diagnosed just as you said. Great minds think alike.
    Just replaced OEM. She's running great!

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