Installed ECS Tuning Vent Boost Gauge and found out I have low boost. Ideas?

[bailor]

I know I'm putting the cart before the horse, but I'm trying to build my car up a little in anticipation for Stage 1+ and a K04 that will be coming a little later this year. I installed a test pipe, diverter valve and last night I just installed the ECS Tuning Vent Boost Gauge. I followed the instructions to the "t" and didn't have any issues. I turned it on and found that at idle my boost is sitting at about -20. When I put my foot in it, it only gets up to about 5-7 psi. I'm still fairly new to forced induction, but I'm learning. Am I supposed to be sitting at 0 when idling? Where can I start my search for a boost leak? Any help is needed. Thanks.

[f1torrents]

-20INHG at idle is perfect.
You are in Vacuum. And -20 Is right in the sweet spot. Everything is perfectly fine.
I Imagine you should be able to get to 9PSI of boost under High load. 7 is a bit low.

[SaabtoAudi]

Where did you tap the T (I followed a4 mods walkthough and found the line I tapped wasn't big enough (hose running to diverter valve) after changed it, my boost showed up as spiking around 11, and holding around 9 and slowly dropping until about 5-7 and redline

[bailor]

Thanks f1torrents. That makes me feel a little better. I took it out and when i really step on it it surges to 9,but only for a split second. It sounds like I'm normal.
I tapped the t into the line coming off the intake manifold, exactly where they do it in the ECS Tuning video.

[ECS Tuning-Audi]

At idle you should see around -21 -20 vac. Typically a healthy B6 1.8T will spike around 9-9.5lbs of boost then fall and hold around 7 slowing dropping to around 5 near redline.

I hope this helps!

Jason

[customa4]

Here's some info on boost gauges. Click

Been researching boost gauges a little. Sinc ei'm new to turbos, I'm trying to ed-ja-ma-kate myself. lol Saw this on one of the Bimmer forums. Thought it was worth posting...


ENGINE STATE VACUUM GAUGE READING INDICATION
Steady idle (800-1200rpm) Gauge steady, 17-22 Normal & healthy
Steady idle (800-1200 rpm) Intermittently drops several needle divisions Sticking valve or broken valve spring
Steady idle (800-1200 rpm) Steady, low reading, 8-14 Small vacuum leak or valve timing off; could have low compression/worn rings (verify with a compression or leakdown test).
Steady idle (800-1200 rpm) Steady, low reading, under 8 Vacuum leak (check brake booster, vacuum lines, etc.)
Idle (800-1200 rpm) Needle drops sharply on a regular rhythm Burnt valve, or a valve with clearance too tight
Idle (800-1200 rpm) Needle drifts up & down, along with rpm drift Mixture off or small vacuum leak
Idle (800-1200rpm) Vacuum gradually drops Excessive exhaust back pressure (plugged muffler or catalytic converter)
Idle (800-1200rpm) Intermittent fluctuation Ignition miss; sticking valve
Idle (800-1200rpm) Steady, above 22 Ignition timing may be too advanced
Open & close throttle quickly Drops to about 2, jumps to about 25 Healthy engine
Open & close throttle quickly Drops to 0, jumps to about 20 May confirm worn rings (especially if idle shows only about 15-20) Verify with a compression or leakdown test.