Low Milage w/o Warranty or High Milage w/ Warranty?

[Pat_McGroin]

Ayyyyy, thanks for poppin in.

I have a quick question for you guys, which would you rather buy, a 50k mile B7 without warranty(and begin a "timing service" savings) or a 90K mile B7 with warranty?(no official numbers on warranty yet, will post later.)

They're both Tip(just to clarify) well maintained, service records and all, interior and exterior in pristine condition, drive great but both have never had any sort of timing service.

I don't plan on doing any performance mods until a year or more after owning, car will be daily driven with spirited driving once in a blue moon.

I'd really appreciate your guys thoughts on this, let me know if theres any info i'm leaving out to justify one over the other.

[SprintBlueWorld]

I went with low miles and almost no warrenty. Get as much stuff straightened out from the dealer as possible!

[LINDW4LL]

Well, there is a 95% chance that timing chain service is going to need to be done at some point. A low-mileage example doesn't really help in that regard- some have had the guides fail at 60k, others not until 110k. Luck of the draw, really, but the expense is almost surely going to be incurred at some point of ownership.

If the 90k car is significantly cheaper, it seems like the better choice. How long is the warranty for?

[pwest15]

I'd buy low-mileage w/o warranty because the warranty might only cover putting OEM timing components in the car as opposed to the updated JHM components. But if the warranty is good and that one's cheaper, then you're probably better-off with that one

[BCsniper]

...the real question is, which one burns more oil?

.

[LINDW4LL]

...the real question is, which one burns more oil?

.

That too, but I was thinking a warranty may cover engine replacement in the case of bad cylinder scoring?


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[Lexxielex]

You can purchase a warranty on almost any vehicle, especially vehicles with low miles like the two you stated. I would buy the lower mileage one and add a warranty. You can get good warranties but it will cost more for better ones obviously. Timing will have to be done on both anyways, might as well get one with lower miles. I bought mine with 120,000 on it and they showed me a receipt saying it was done at 90,000 and I still verified it with Audi that it was done before purchasing and I still purchased a 2yr 20,000 miles warranty. Plus having the lower miles will help you in the future of sales or trade ins. Hope we all helped you out!

-Lex

[Guitarmageddon]

You can purchase a warranty on almost any vehicle, especially vehicles with low miles like the two you stated. I would buy the lower mileage one and add a warranty. You can get good warranties but it will cost more for better ones obviously. Timing will have to be done on both anyways, might as well get one with lower miles. I bought mine with 120,000 on it and they showed me a receipt saying it was done at 90,000 and I still verified it with Audi that it was done before purchasing and I still purchased a 2yr 20,000 miles warranty. Plus having the lower miles will help you in the future of sales or trade ins. Hope we all helped you out!

-Lex

I ended up going that route when I bought mine at 32k. Got a 3 year or 36,000 mile warranty for $2300 and it was worth every penny. Im at 60k on it now with about a year and some change left. It can also be transferred to future buyers. It definitely helps you hold your value if you go to sell as well. But as always, have the proper PPI stuff done on any car regardless

[BCsniper]

...the real question is, which one burns more oil?

.

That too, but I was thinking a warranty may cover engine replacement in the case of bad cylinder scoring?

from what we have seen here on the forum.........not at all

There have been many cases of people trying to get their warranty company to help them. I think there have been maybe 1 or 2 people who were actually successful. The companies will force you to teardown the entire motor until you can show them the exact defective part in your hand, which is kind of hard since the problem is the cylinders themselves. From the people who took it that far the company then BS'd them for quite sometime before either offering them a used motor (which may have the same problem) or to just refund their warranty because there is a clause that they wont pay out over a certain amount

[Lexxielex]

But as always, have the proper PPI stuff done on any car regardless

I totally agree.

[Lexxielex]

from what we have seen here on the forum.........not at all

There have been many cases of people trying to get their warranty company to help them. I think there have been maybe 1 or 2 people who were actually successful. The companies will force you to teardown the entire motor until you can show them the exact defective part in your hand, which is kind of hard since the problem is the cylinders themselves. From the people who took it that far the company then BS'd them for quite sometime before either offering them a used motor (which may have the same problem) or to just refund their warranty because there is a clause that they wont pay out over a certain amount

Those are shitty companies. My cousin blew his motor and his aftermarket warranty covered it. I guess it depends on who you pick. Do some research on the companies offered before purchasing.

[Pat_McGroin]

I went with low miles and almost no warrenty. Get as much stuff straightened out from the dealer as possible!

Its a private sale, dealer would have made my decision so much easier. Almost no warranty?

Well, there is a 95% chance that timing chain service is going to need to be done at some point. A low-mileage example doesn't really help in that regard- some have had the guides fail at 60k, others not until 110k. Luck of the draw, really, but the expense is almost surely going to be incurred at some point of ownership.

If the 90k car is significantly cheaper, it seems like the better choice. How long is the warranty for?

You can purchase a warranty on almost any vehicle, especially vehicles with low miles like the two you stated. I would buy the lower mileage one and add a warranty. You can get good warranties but it will cost more for better ones obviously. Timing will have to be done on both anyways, might as well get one with lower miles. I bought mine with 120,000 on it and they showed me a receipt saying it was done at 90,000 and I still verified it with Audi that it was done before purchasing and I still purchased a 2yr 20,000 miles warranty. Plus having the lower miles will help you in the future of sales or trade ins. Hope we all helped you out!

-Lex

I hear you guys, definitely a matter of luck. I've been reading forum after forum about how milage isn't a factor but from what I've found it seems to be more common during higher milage. A risk either way. In a perfect world, my budget would cover the low milage S4 and a warranty simultaneously.

As for warranty, it ranged from bumper to bumper, for a whopping 11K! 3/36k to $900 for 12 months/12k covering engine, trans, trans case, and drive axle. These are from my credit union by the way, I was also told that I can purchase warranty at anytime during the financing period by paying in full for the warranty of my choice. Which is nice to know and puts my mind at ease a bit.

I'd buy low-mileage w/o warranty because the warranty might only cover putting OEM timing components in the car as opposed to the updated JHM components. But if the warranty is good and that one's cheaper, then you're probably better-off with that one

Thats the plan if I decide to go for the low milage S4.

I ended up going that route when I bought mine at 32k. Got a 3 year or 36,000 mile warranty for $2300 and it was worth every penny. Im at 60k on it now with about a year and some change left. It can also be transferred to future buyers. It definitely helps you hold your value if you go to sell as well. But as always, have the proper PPI stuff done on any car regardless

Mind me asking what you've had worked on under warranty?

Speaking of PPI, another thing that has me leaning more toward the low-milage is that it was last serviced by AU tuning, seller was told,"everything checked out well, one of the cleanest B7s they've seen."

Again, I really appreciate your guys help!

[Guitarmageddon]

Its a private sale, dealer would have made my decision so much easier. Almost no warranty?





I hear you guys, definitely a matter of luck. I've been reading forum after forum about how milage isn't a factor but from what I've found it seems to be more common during higher milage. A risk either way. In a perfect world, my budget would cover the low milage S4 and a warranty simultaneously.

As for warranty, it ranged from bumper to bumper, for a whopping 11K! 3/36k to $900 for 12 months/12k covering engine, trans, trans case, and drive axle. These are from my credit union by the way, I was also told that I can purchase warranty at anytime during the financing period by paying in full for the warranty of my choice. Which is nice to know and puts my mind at ease a bit.



Thats the plan if I decide to go for the low milage S4.



Mind me asking what you've had worked on under warranty?

Speaking of PPI, another thing that has me leaning more toward the low-milage is that it was last serviced by AU tuning, seller was told,"everything checked out well, one of the cleanest B7s they've seen."

Again, I really appreciate your guys help!

Coil pack(s), coolant expansion tank, clutch switch control arms/bushings and I think maybe one other. I think I have an o2 on the fritz I'm getting fixed Saturday actually. It's been a huge help to have the warranty. Yes , those are all.minor things but its good piece of mind

[Pat_McGroin]

Coil pack(s), coolant expansion tank, clutch switch control arms/bushings and I think maybe one other. I think I have an o2 on the fritz I'm getting fixed Saturday actually. It's been a huge help to have the warranty. Yes , those are all.minor things but its good piece of mind

Thats a good amount of items to replace for the amount of miles on your car. Was the warranty through Audi?

Will continue to negotiate price on extended warranty with my CU, they us Mercury for warranty. Anyone heard or use them before?

[ladiesgod]

from what we have seen here on the forum.........not at all

There have been many cases of people trying to get their warranty company to help them. I think there have been maybe 1 or 2 people who were actually successful. The companies will force you to teardown the entire motor until you can show them the exact defective part in your hand, which is kind of hard since the problem is the cylinders themselves. From the people who took it that far the company then BS'd them for quite sometime before either offering them a used motor (which may have the same problem) or to just refund their warranty because there is a clause that they wont pay out over a certain amount

I've got Zurich warranty. They replaced my engine because of cylinder scoring. Gave me a rental while I waited for it too. No problems. I was pleasantly surprised at the hassle free process.