Dead in the water -- Immobilizer

[lasher45]

Drove my car last night and everything ran perfect. Went to start it this afternoon and noticed the immobilizer had kicked on for some reason. As soon as I turned the key the dash would start beeping and the Immo icon would start flashing, if I actually turned the car on it would shut off after about 1-2 seconds. Unfortunately I can't find my second key so all I have is the valet and the regular FOB.

So far I've tried:
-Disconnecting the battery
-Starting the car with the vallet/plastic key
-Doing the reprogram I found online using the vallet key in the ignition with the regular key outside the car
-Put my regular key in the ignition and pressing the lock/unlock buttons
-Put a battery charger on and left the key in the "accessory on" position to see if the Immo icon stopped flashing (also read this fix somewhere online). After about 30 minutes it was still on.

Codes are:
-P0139
02 censor circuit
-P0343
camshaft pos. sensor circ high output 16727
-P0513
-P0600
serial comm.link (data bus) message missing 16984....(There was 4 of these on the screen)

I use the Motoza PS to scan codes since I don't have a VAG-COM. However, last time I scanned the car I came up with:
-P0562 System Voltage Low
-P1290
-P0638
-P0139
This was back in October and none of these have shown up since. With the exception of the P0139

Some other symptoms I've noticed are that every once and a while, I'm talking maybe twice a month give or take, the car would not want to start since the beginning of winter. I do have to say that there's also a fairly new battery, purchased in around August/September. Since tonight when the Immo kicked on, the interior lights would be delayed in turning on whenever I opened the door and would turn off then on a couple times before finally either staying on for a minute or shutting off. The climate control lights would come on and stay on, but randomly shut off and on again even with the door shut and the keys not in the ignition. However the radio would stay completely shut off the entire time. The little hazard light triangle would dim then shut off then turn back on and vice-versa. The data on the gauge cluster(mileage, trip counter, time, calender) were all jumbled and would randomly change. There was also this strange whining/whistling sound coming from the throttle body as soon as the key was in the "accessory on" position and would stop as soon as I took the key out.

I've searched the forums here and did some google-foo and came out with the fixes I tried, using a VAG-Com to connect the key with the car, taking it to a dealer to have them look at (really really trying to avoid this option). Does anyone have any knowledge on what else it could be? I can usually figure out issues mechanically, but when it comes to electrical I'm completely lost.

In-case anyone asks, mods are: Motoza Stage1+, ER Sport IC, HFC, secondary 02 delete, EVAP delete

[imnuts]

If it is the immobilizer shutting the car off, the fault(s) will be stored in the cluster, and you'll need VCDS to re-pair the key. You can't repair the IMMO chips without the dealer software or VCDS. There are a couple programs that say that they can do it, but I've read more stories of them not working and causing other issues that I'd stay away from them for immobilizer work. If you don't have VCDS and/or your SKC, you're going to be stuck taking it to the dealer, and be sure to take all of your keys with you when you do. A low and/or dead battery shouldn't affect the immobilizer working or its memory of keys. The other stuff that you noticed, if it really is a problem, is going to be a separate issue.

[BerNur]

This could be preventing your car car from not starting every single time... http://www.audipages.com/Tech_Articl...chreplace.html

Also the flashing immo could be the wire leading to this switch... After I replaced mine I didn't plug the wire back correctly and I had the immo on and my cluster was displaying safe... It's worth a check dough

[vwchuck]

Leave your key in the ignition in the accessory on position for like 30 minutes. It will reacquire the key on its own. I had a GTI that did this.

[lasher45]

Thanks guy, I read it could be the ignition switch that went bad and ordered one of those since It's only $13 on ECS. I'll update when I find out if that works.

[BerNur]

Thanks guy, I read it could be the ignition switch that went bad and ordered one of those since It's only $13 on ECS. I'll update when I find out if that works.

wow feel lucky, because when i purchased mine i paid over 100$.. it was oem but i see even those have dropped in price..

[lasher45]

Update: Got the Ignition switch in and the car started right up, hopefully this will be end of my issues.

However, since I had to take the steering wheel off, now that its back on I makes this awful squeaking noise like its rubbing against the plastic shroud behind the wheel itself. I took it out for a short test drive and the noise didnt stop. Also the wheel is harder to turn and wont return the center position when turning etc... It's pretty much un-driveable right now. I used the Bently manual to find the torque specs and that didnt work either. Anyone know how to fix this issue now?

[lasher45]

Bump.

Anyone know how to fix the steering wheel issue in my previous post? I used a new steering wheel bolt and the issue is still there.

[SlickFix]

Bump.

Anyone know how to fix the steering wheel issue in my previous post? I used a new steering wheel bolt and the issue is still there.

I think it's time to remove everything again and reassemble, being very careful. I suspect that you've got something incorrect assembled.

[lasher45]

Okay another update.

Fixed my steering wheel issue after taking it apart for the 100th time. It ended up being a stupid mistake on my part I didn't bother to check earlier. Thanks SlickFix, I guess it was just my error. Everything seemed to be back to normal until about 4 days ago. The car started and ran fine, then the next day it would start then shut off after about 1-2 seconds again. However, this time the Immo light was not coming on, my lock/unlock buttons worked fine and everything else seemed alright other than the car shutting right off. I left it overnight and decided to try again the next day and she decided to start right up and run fine all day even after multiple times shutting her off.

I'm afraid to drive it anywhere with the threat of the car not starting any random time. I don't think it is the key, even tried the plastic valet one when the car refuses to start with the same outcome. Unfortunately I have no idea where my actual spare is to test that one. A friend of mine thought it could be a loose connection to something in relation to the Immo or the Ignition. I'm pretty much out of ideas other than a loose wire or I need a a new Immo ring.

[old guy]

Have you scanned again for codes? You may have a P0322 for the engine speed sensor going bad.

[lasher45]

I have not. Ill do that and report back. The only thing I have to scan codes with is the Motoza software however.

[old guy]

I have not. Ill do that and report back. The only thing I have to scan codes with is the Motoza software however.

That should work just fine.

[lasher45]

Just scanned the codes:

p0600 serial comm link message missing 16984 (four of these showed up)
p0513
p0562 system voltage low voltage 6946
p0343 camshaft pos sensor circ high output 16727
p0139 02 sensor circ

No P0322 though

[rollerton]

Does the Immo light come on at initial turn of the key, then go out? Car starts for 1 second and dies like before?
You should borrow a real VCDS ross tech cable. Scan the cluster (17 instruments) module. I kind of thought from step 1 that the cluster was funky. Immobilizer is bsaically built into the cluster. Don't know where you live or how much you'd worry about theft, but you might consider sending your ECU (or cluster) to someone and just having the Immo turned off.