Installed new chain tensioner first start chain rattle for over 15 mins.

[whitelite]

Just got done installing a new chain tensioner because the old one was rattling once the car got warm. This one rattles constantly. Oil pressure is up around 80 when cold start so its not oil pressure. Any ideas? The chain is taught on the rails and does not have any play when the tool was taken off.

[Seerlah]

How long did you let it run for before you deemed it bad? Also you did use an OEM one, correct? And you sure it is the CCT and not lifter chatter?

[whitelite]

Yea its banging the valve cover pretty badly. I let it run for about 20 mins. I noticed once I took everything back apart that my chain mark was not lined up the same was it was when I replaced the tensioner. It was however lined up perfectly when I put it back together. I was under the assumption that it was pretty hard to jump a tooth on the cam chain even with a faulty tensioner. I am not keen on how everything on a 1.8t works so any suggestions would be awesome.

And yes it is OEM. If you push down on the tensioner oil will come out of it so I it is being filled somewhat....

[Seerlah]

Do you still count 16 links?

[whitelite]

Just used my other compression tester. Would a bent valve throw off the tensioner cause it looks like that is what I am dealing with now.

8 revs.

cyl 1: 150
cyl 2: 0
cyl 3: 150
cyl 4: 150

[Seerlah]

A bent valve would not throw off timing, but off timing could bend a valve. What I find odd is that you have no compression in only that one cylinder. You are allowed to be off a tooth before you bend a valve. Car just would not run as good as it would with correct timing.

Do you still count 16 links on your timing chain, between the 2 cam cap marks?

And the marks you made before won't line up simply because they won't after rotation. Forget exact thing that makes this happen.

Also, did you not notice the misfires with one missing cylinder? Easy way to test to see if that cylinder is indeed dead, disconnect ignition coil #3 when car is running (if you even want to attempt this). If the car cuts off, then you have an issue with cylinder 2. If it stays running, then you did the test incorrect for that cylinder. DO AT YOUR OWN RISK!!!

When you bend a valve due to timing being off, it would usually bend the same valve in every last cylinder head the same. Usually it is the middle intake valve. Before doing anything, confirm timing with everything and post up your results (damper with TB cover, exhaust cam gear mark with VC, both line up with cylinder 1+4 TDC, and cam notches line up with the cam cap arrow). Unless the tensioner is fully tensioned in the up position, the marks will be slightly off (what I'm thinking happened with you). As long as you have the 16 links and they both look damn near close, you most likely have it correct.

Pics always help.

*I find it really odd you lost compression in only one cylinder from timing being off.

[whitelite]

I have a lot of experience with older VW motors "16v,8v,VR6,aba's" but not much with the 1.8t since this is my first. I also find it odd that only one cyl has no compression. I don't think it jumped time but I will double check and a ring would show some compression. I know the person who had the car before me replaced the head and I am wondering if he replaced it with a head that had a bent valve to begin with. I did suspect a bit of a miss when idle "sounded like a Subaru when it was idling lol" but the car drove fine. Again this is my first 1.8t so I assume they were just simply less powerful then my other cars so I did not take notice to any power loss.

[whitelite]

2 bent valves.

[Seerlah]

That sucks. Also, that's a fair amount of oil/carbon buildup. I suggest you look into that too.

[whitelite]

The previous owner put a junkyard AUG head on this thing. It may not have even been from this motor.... Anyway I am going to put a freshly rebuilt AEB head on it and go from there.