Removing coil pack question

[alm70]

Hello,

I'm replacing the coil packs on my 07 A6 4.2 and need some advice about removing the coil pack in the back on the side by where the air box exists.
I removed the few of the large hoses and I can get to the coil pack but once I left it a little, I can't get the angle to get it out. Basically the red connector
bar (sorry for not knowing these part names) is in the way. The red connector bar seems to have wires connected in two places, but I'm not sure if those come
off and don't want to force them and break something.

Anyone have any advice for me on what is necessary to move out of the way to get to this fourth one in the back? Sorry if this has already been covered, but I didn't
see the answer I needed. Thanks in advance

[Clear2Close]

Post a pic


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[FL C6 Avant]

pics would help, you did disconnect the coil pak connector at the bundle, right (what you call the 'bar')?
there should be a torx screw or two that holds the harness bundle in place to the valve cover. remove the one closest to the coil pak in question and that should allow the bundle to move enough to get the pak out?

[alm70]

Sorry for not posting a pic...of course I should of thought of that. I did take off the two torx screws that hold the bundle in place on the valve cover. I could move the whole bundle around
but not enough out of the way to get the pack in the back out.

But...after going back to it after awhile, was able to move the bundle downward (I was trying to move it up) and out of the way just enough to get that last pack out. It is very tight in there.

Thanks for the quick replies...sorry for such a dumb question! At least on the other side there are less things in the way.

[FL C6 Avant]

sometimes ya just need a fresh set of eyes.

[alm70]

Well so much for my easy coil pack replacement. When I pulled out the coil packs on the passenger side..2, 3, and 4 had oil on them as well as oil down in the spark holes. The first one all the way in the front was bone dry, but the other 3 on the passenger side had oil. After almost passing out, I researched a bit and I'm assuming it is the valve cover gasket? I checked the driver's side and those 4 had some oil, but not as much as the other 4. I figured it wasn't a good thing to put my new coil packs in, so I waiting on that for now.

I was replacing the coil packs because the car had a rough idle and was getting random misfires. I assume with the oil on the coil packs I would be getting misfires? So I'm thinking after I change the VCG, put in my new coils and plugs and that should hopefully cure my rough idle issue.

BUT...I did just get a code I never had before until today. P0016 - cam shaft position correlation sensor A. Another code was P008A (low pressure fuel)

I guess my questions are..

Are the misfires related to the P0016 or are the misfires and P0016 unrelated?
Is the P008A and low pressure fuel related?
And most important...is the P0016 always a timing issue or cam sensor?

Also, for whats its worth...I'm getting the P0016 code from my cheap $100 scan tool. The car is currently at my Indy shop being diagnosed more,
but I just want to be informed when I talk to them hopefully tomorrow.

Also...the car has 99K on it

Thanks for any input

[FL C6 Avant]

VCG need replaced for sure.
Start with that and the fresh coil pax, and see what re-manifests (if anything).

[skylinrcr01]

I had a small oil leak in the coil packs, turned out to be VCG and something else. Replaced the VCG and there is next to no oil leaking into the tubes no, in fact, it may all be residual. My symptoms were misfires under heavy load, if I punched it a couple times in quick succession, I would get the CEL, and if I did that a couple times, the car would enter limp mode.

Tyler

[alm70]

Well my Indy shop called today and they are saying I do need a cam chain tensioner. All four cylinders on this particular side are miss firing and they are telling me it is in fact the cam chain tensioner. Forgive me if I'm not using all the right terms, but they mentioned the tensioner, chain, guides, etc. They are saying on the 4.2 the engine has to be dropped for this job? This is not my first Audi and I have had VW's and Audi's for the past 20 years so I'm well aware of the cost of repairs over the years, but this is by far my largest. When researching the C6 A6 a few years ago of course the cam chain tensioner kept coming up in my searches so I'm not totally shocked. The Indy isn't really saying a cost yet but are saying at the very least it would be $2500..and they mentioned upwards to 5K.

Can anyone confirm the engine has to be dropped?
What are others paying for this repair?

I can't believe this thread started with a simple coil pack question..

Thanks in advance

[FL C6 Avant]

There is room at the back of the head on the 3.2 and 3.0R
on the 4.2 i think the usual way is to drop the trans, but yes it's labor intensive.
I would think 4-5k based on some other's experiences.
If you are going to keep the car, i would strongly consider replacing the torque converter, since a lot of the labor is covered.....

[alm70]

Thanks FL C6. I know my mechanic mentioned other parts worth replacing while in there and the torque converter may very well be one of them. I'll ask him.

A friend of mine owns a used car lot (where the car came from) and I might ask him how much he will give me for the car as is right now. Then he can repair and sell it.
I know he has a S4 there right now having the same repairs.