Fun With Cam Chain Adjusters. What's your speculation??

[jpulll]

Interesting, the area around the CCT is dry which is good because I replaced those gaskets along with the CCT. The 034 breather hoses came close to coming apart but I don’t think it would spray that much oil and only on the connector. I’m thinking this is my excuse to try the Hudson brand. Been having problems with the europaparts tensioner ever since I installed it so maybe it’s time.

No codes though. Only got the open circuit code when I disconnected it.

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[fR3ZNO]

Interesting, the area around the CCT is dry which is good because I replaced those gaskets along with the CCT. The 034 breather hoses came close to coming apart but I don’t think it would spray that much oil and only on the connector. I’m thinking this is my excuse to try the Hudson brand. Been having problems with the europaparts tensioner ever since I installed it so maybe it’s time.

No codes though. Only got the open circuit code when I disconnected it.

Image1519589621.794504.jpgImage1519589634.018081.jpg


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FWIW, I had the same failure mode on a Hudson brand tensioner as well, oil leaking into the connector. But mine had a code as well so I replaced it with a Febi brand one. Who knows if that'll make a difference, they're probably all made in the same factory anway, lol.

[jpulll]

FWIW, I had the same failure mode on a Hudson brand tensioner as well, oil leaking into the connector. But mine had a code as well so I replaced it with a Febi brand one. Who knows if that'll make a difference, they're probably all made in the same factory anway, lol.

Yeah after some thinking and searching I think I’m just gonna suck it up and do a genuine part. $650 on FCP. Better than 720 on ecs. Hopefully I get lucky and get a good part and if I don’t I know I get the FCP warranty on a genuine part.


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[fR3ZNO]

FWIW, I had the same failure mode on a Hudson brand tensioner as well, oil leaking into the connector. But mine had a code as well so I replaced it with a Febi brand one. Who knows if that'll make a difference, they're probably all made in the same factory anway, lol.

Just a quick update, found oil leaking from the same spot on the Febi tensioner as the Hudson one. It's not a large leak, but enough to make a mess under the car. Kind of annoyed at this point, there's nothing wrong with it functionally, just that oil leak. The Febi tensioner is about 3-4 months old.

When I get a chance, I'll just put in a used OEM CCT with new pads. Tired of messing with these aftermarket ones now.

[audinutt]

Just a quick update, found oil leaking from the same spot on the Febi tensioner as the Hudson one. It's not a large leak, but enough to make a mess under the car. Kind of annoyed at this point, there's nothing wrong with it functionally, just that oil leak. The Febi tensioner is about 3-4 months old.

When I get a chance, I'll just put in a used OEM CCT with new pads. Tired of messing with these aftermarket ones now.

Same thing I experienced.. aftermarket tensioners are not that great. Bit the bullet and bought a genuine tensioner. No leaks or issues since.

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[fR3ZNO]

Same thing I experienced.. aftermarket tensioners are not that great. Bit the bullet and bought a genuine tensioner. No leaks or issues since.

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Yeah, which is surprising how many good reviews they have on various parts websites. No one has ever mentioned the various issues, just the fact they're so much cheaper than the Genuine part.

[jpulll]

Everyone writes a review without getting miles on the product. Yeah it fixes it now but what is the longevity of the product.


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[audinutt]

Everyone writes a review without getting miles on the product. Yeah it fixes it now but what is the longevity of the product.


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Exactly my experience. It started leaking oil from the ball facing the firewall. Not bad but enough to create quite a mess. then it became noisy. Had 30k on it and replaced with genuine audi tensioner. No more leaks or issues.

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[my1stturbo]

I know this is an old thread but thought I'd ask here instead of creating another thread. Does this same line of diagnosis apply to a AWM? Had the same initial code and changed CCT and TV and tensioner and getting a P0340 ever since. I was able to read block 91 (car was already warm) and values we're either off 0/1 or on 21/22.

[V70R]

Yep AWM uses the same cam chain tensioner with similar diagnosis.

Like what Fresno said and others, the aftermarket cam chain tensioners are garbage; including but not limited to Febi, Hudson, Bapmic, Dorman, all of them. They never last even if they past their quality control checks after manufacturing.

Not to derail things, but I remember an older thread where Walky discussed using a 2.7T/2.8 Bank 1 CCT (PN 078109088H) and their differences are unknown...has anyone looked into this? The OE price is lower than the 1.8T version, just curious what the difference actually is (spring tension, etc).

[EuroxS4]

This is why I always say to use OEM parts.Aftermarket is rarely up to par.I mean sure something yes.But anything timing related your better off doing it right and once.Glad you got it sorted!!

[Dr.B6Banter]

I was planning on replacing the tensioner with one off rockauto that wasent OEM, but after reading this thread I'm not so sure... I've got a ticking at idle coming from the back of the motor, but no codes relating to timing from my generic code reader, and no grooves on the inside of the valve cover from the chain slapping around.

The pads may have worn a bit but I cant see how that would make a ticking noise...
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[DownhillA4]

I've got the same ticking Lord, coming from back of motor and no codes. I've thought about pulling Valve Cover Gasket and inspecting pads.

[audinutt]

The ticking noise is from the tensioner being worn internally. You won't be able to see any visible wear from the pads. It will be easier if you just replace it with a good genuine Audi unit and call it done... if you buy aftermarket I guarantee you will not be happy and you'll end up redoing the job.

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[my1stturbo]

My tensioner is a Bapmic, literally started having issues a day after the tensioner went in. I had used Gates unit which lasted about 4 years last time (though looking back it looks like it might not have been the right part number 058109088E).

[B6Sticks]

I have an OEM one on the shelf and it doesn't spin. Possibly your solenoid overheated at some point and the plastic melted a little internally?

Just read this whole thread, interesting stuff. My car has 146k with original CCT. Occasionally it'll rattle for like 2 seconds on a cold start if the oil is below half on the dipstick, but I keep it topped off and have no rattle if I stay on top of that. Since I switched to liquimoly that helped a lot too, Mobil 1 would rattle for a second even with it topped off. But my connector spins too! Doesn't leak, no codes, works perfect. Just the connector does, not the whole solenoid. My car is a 2003, maybe there was a small batch of these put out for some reason?

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[nrotteveel]

Just read this whole thread, interesting stuff. My car has 146k with original CCT. Occasionally it'll rattle for like 2 seconds on a cold start if the oil is below half on the dipstick, but I keep it topped off and have no rattle if I stay on top of that. Since I switched to liquimoly that helped a lot too, Mobil 1 would rattle for a second even with it topped off. But my connector spins too! Doesn't leak, no codes, works perfect. Just the connector does, not the whole solenoid. My car is a 2003, maybe there was a small batch of these put out for some reason?

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I'm having P0011 and P0012 codes as well. 2005 Jetta GLI 1.8t with 128k miles. I got the P0012 code first. Cleared it after reading these threads. Came back 2 weeks later. Cleared again and about 2 weeks later i got a P0011 code. Cleared it. It came back two weeks later. So the code is not triggering right away. There is no rattle at all. The car is driven by my son. Barely goes two miles to school each way. We put less than 6-8k miles a year on the car. I change the oil every 5k miles with syn 5w-40 castrol. I don't have VCDS to do any tests. Besides checking the OHMs on the solenoid, are there any other ways to test the unit? Should i bring it into a shop to specifically do this. I can do all the repairs, i just don't want to invest in VCDS. Frankly, i'm thinking i may have an oil pressure issue with all the low miles causing a sludge possibility. But would love people's thoughts.

[old guy]

It sounds like your CCT is occasionally sticking. I doubt it is oil pressure related. Sludge was an issue with the earlier 1.8T engines when Audi/VW used the small filter, non-synthetic oils and a 10K OCI. That was corrected by 2005. Plus you have indicated that you are maintaining a 5K OCI.

There is a free version of VCDS Lite that you can download. Clicky click® I'm not sure if the free version will let you view the necessary measuring blocks. Certainly worth a try.

Meanwhile you won't hurt anything by simply resetting the code when it occurs and monitoring it for a time period. Try to get it out for a few extended drives and see it that helps.

[nrotteveel]

It sounds like your CCT is occasionally sticking. I doubt it is oil pressure related. Sludge was an issue with the earlier 1.8T engines when Audi/VW used the small filter, non-synthetic oils and a 10K OCI. That was corrected by 2005. Plus you have indicated that you are maintaining a 5K OCI.

There is a free version of VCDS Lite that you can download. Clicky click® I'm not sure if the free version will let you view the necessary measuring blocks. Certainly worth a try.

Meanwhile you won't hurt anything by simply resetting the code when it occurs and monitoring it for a time period. Try to get it out for a few extended drives and see it that helps.

Thank you for the feedback and link. I will see if the free version gives the data. After the last reset last Thursday, i took it out for a 60 mile drive on Sunday. Ran great. No codes to date.

[nrotteveel]

It sounds like your CCT is occasionally sticking. I doubt it is oil pressure related. Sludge was an issue with the earlier 1.8T engines when Audi/VW used the small filter, non-synthetic oils and a 10K OCI. That was corrected by 2005. Plus you have indicated that you are maintaining a 5K OCI.

There is a free version of VCDS Lite that you can download. Clicky click® I'm not sure if the free version will let you view the necessary measuring blocks. Certainly worth a try.

Meanwhile you won't hurt anything by simply resetting the code when it occurs and monitoring it for a time period. Try to get it out for a few extended drives and see it that helps.

Hello Old Guy. This may be a dumb question, but would the code show up immediately if it was a constant issue? Just wondering if there is a readiness period that must be meet? Just seems strange that it is about the same timeframe that it shows up.

Also, if CCT is sticking occasionally, i still would think a oil starvation could cause it. The code usually comes on after school on way home, not in the morning. Anyways, on Sunday i did change the engine oil and put in Auto RX just to see if it would do anything. We will see. But if it is not oil pressure, i don't think just changing the pads is going to help me hear. Sounds like it would be in need of full replacement. What I was going to do is see if this oil treatment made any difference while i wait for the cable i need to arrive for use with the VCDS lite. But if it is an intermittent issue, it will be hard to catch in VCDS. I guess i will see how off it is if any on the readings. But if normal, then i'm stuck. If the Auto RX makes just a little difference, i may just drop the oil pan and check out the pick up tube. Otherwise, i would imagine a replacement CCT is most likely the path. Does this sound like the right approach?

Thanks, Nick

[old guy]

You should be able to see it clearly with VCDS. Clicky click®. Have your son monitor block 91 while you drive.

I suspect your CCT is still functioning partially and not stuck in one position. if it was stuck in the middle you would get an incorrect correlation code P0340 because the ECM will not longer have a good reference point. You are getting over-advance and over-retard codes which indicate that the CCT can make it to 0° and 22° at least part of the time. Thus the codes continue to reset and come back.

Dropping the oil pan on the A4 is kind of a royal pain since the subframe is in the way. I don't know how big of a deal it is with the transverse engine. It is relatively easy to check your oil pressure without removing anything but the oil pressure switch, Here is an outstanding reference to help with that: Clicky click®

[nrotteveel]

You should be able to see it clearly with VCDS. Clicky click®. Have your son monitor block 91 while you drive.

I suspect your CCT is still functioning partially and not stuck in one position. if it was stuck in the middle you would get an incorrect correlation code P0340 because the ECM will not longer have a good reference point. You are getting over-advance and over-retard codes which indicate that the CCT can make it to 0° and 22° at least part of the time. Thus the codes continue to reset and come back.

Dropping the oil pan on the A4 is kind of a royal pain since the subframe is in the way. I don't know how big of a deal it is with the transverse engine. It is relatively easy to check your oil pressure without removing anything but the oil pressure switch, Here is an outstanding reference to help with that: Clicky click®

Dropping the oil pan on a transverse engine is a lot easier. no removal of any engine supports are required. the only somewhat tricky part appears to be the 4 bolts near the flywheel. Otherwise it is easy. But i will try the oil preassure route first.

[sgudino]

I think mine looked ok. I am pretty sure some time in this cars life it has had a remaned head put on it. There is no stamping for the motor code on the head, ,just a cleaned machined surface.

Did you resolve the issue JHarris?

[Larhal]

I had some problems earlier this year with the CCT causing a cam positioning sensor code. It was an intermitiant problem. It turned out to be the plug on the wiring harness to the CCT was making intermitant contact, I replaced the plug and connectors and fixed the issue. Check to make sure that the plug is making cood contact.

[Tommy5150]

OK finally got this sorted out. Apparently lightning does strike twice. I went out after lunch, hooked up my VCDS and went to measuring block 91. The normal position for the intake cam is either 0° or 22°. Because of measurement variations the ECM recognizes an active camshaft adjustment angle from -3° to +25°. When the cam adjuster is off it should be between -3° to +6°. With the adjuster activated it should be between 16° and 25°.

When you cold start the engine the cam adjuster is activated so you should see the activated range of somewhere between 16° and 25°. I had a reading that was bouncing around 12° to 14°. I let the car idle until the adjuster deactivated and the cam angle only dropped to 10°. This pretty much confirmed my suspicion that the cam adjuster was sticking.

I pulled the adjuster out and give it a thorough examination. I noticed two things. The spring rate in the replacement cam adjuster felt at least twice as strong as the OEM spring rate. Also when I compressed the OEM tensioner the movement was smooth and fluid. I repeated the procedure with the replacement tensioner and it felt gritty. Next I pulled out the secondary piston from both the OEM and replacement adjuster and compared the shafts. As you can see there was considerable scarring on the replacement cam positioner shaft and apparently that was causing the positioner to hang up.



I am now CEL free, my smooth idle is back and the engine is running much smoother.

Time to go hit the Bulleit Bottle!

Cheers!

Hi Old Guy I hope this message finds you well,

Just came across your post. Very very informative thank you very much for taking the time to write all this info. Much appreciated!

I know it has been nearly 8-9 years since your post but would mind your input on my P0341 Cam sensor issue if you have the time. I have a 2002 Audi A4 B6 1.8 T.

My full description is here.

Just to quickly sum up. I've checked everything from wiring to connectors to replacing the cam / crank sensor with no luck, checked cam sensor plate under cam sensor but that is not damaged or warped what so ever. Check timing under rocker cover for 16 links which is there. Oil level and pressure is good. Car runs decently well main issue is CEL(MIL light) with the VCDS "16725 - Camshaft Position Sensor (G40)
P0341 - 004 - Implausible Signal - MIL ON" only error code with sometimes starting on 2nd attempt sometimes 4th.

The only thing I have left to do is try and change the cam timing chain tentioner. But after reading your post and having a look at measuring bank 091 I can see that cam adjst. intake status shows "OFF" and Cam adjust intake B1 (act) shows "0.0°KW" this is after engine is hot and at idle. When I accelerate revs go up with engine load but the KW does not change at all. It stays at 0.00. With the cam adjst. intake status shows "OFF" and the KW not changing at all does this confirm that the tentioner is stuck or not working at all? Am I safe to say that?

Again thank you and I look forwards to your respons.

Cheers
Tommy