P2020 code?

[FWP!]

Getting this code, and I thought it had to do with when your intake manifold was in need of a carbon clean, but I did mine not more than a few thousand miles ago. I have tried clearing the code a few times but it comes back almost immediately. Any ideas?

Address 11: Engine II Labels: 079-910-560-BNS2.lbl
Part No SW: 8E1 910 560 A HW: 8E1 907 560
Component: 4.2L V8/4V FSI ª0060
Revision: 57H13--- Serial number: XXXXXXXXXXXXXX
Coding: 01040009180F0160
Shop #: WSC 22309 444 84516
VCID: 244CF574E731813EDFF-8071

1 Fault Found:
008224 - Intake Manifold Flap Position Sensor (Bank 2)
P2020 - 008 - Implausible Signal
Freeze Frame:
Fault Status: 01101000
Fault Priority: 0
Fault Frequency: 1
Reset counter: 255
Mileage: 120308 km
Time Indication: 0

Freeze Frame:
RPM: 770 /min
Load: 29.4 %
Speed: 0.0 km/h
Temperature: 93.0°C
Temperature: 73.0°C
Absolute Pres.: 960.0 mbar
Voltage: 12.954 V

[xalfa]

I had this. Ended up being a bad flap position sensor. No codes since replacing 20k miles back.

[two2]

do you have vagcom cable? you can do a test to see if the flaps on both banks are moving. it could be two things... a vacuum leak or the position sensor which are about $80. there are two sensors and imo both should be changed at the same time.

[irulea2]

FWP! I'm sorry to hear about your issues. On a side note, I just bought my rs4 and want to get the carbon cleaning. Where did you have it done? Do you still have your piggies available? PM sent.

[xalfa]

there are two sensors and imo both should be changed at the same time.

Replacing one of the sensors requires removing the IM. Unfortunately, I'm pretty sure it is Bank 2...

On the bright side, I drove with a bad sensor for 15k miles with no issues, so you could hold off on doing this until your next CC.

[kmurph]

I had this same code 3 times over the last 2 years...first time was a bad vacuum line under the IM. Second time was a bad check valve, and the last time (last month) the IM was replaced because the flaps on bank two were not working properly...when the manifold was removed, it was found that the flaps exhibited too much play. Each time, the Check Engine was intermittent, but appeared more often over time.

[FWP!]

Replacing one of the sensors requires removing the IM. Unfortunately, I'm pretty sure it is Bank 2...

On the bright side, I drove with a bad sensor for 15k miles with no issues, so you could hold off on doing this until your next CC.

I'm ok with yanking the IM off again if that means fixing the issue. I feel the driveability difference, the car is not as "smooth" as it used to be, including at idle. Starting to wonder if it's a bad vacuum line somewhere. I did have this same code before I took the IM off the first time to do the carbon cleaning about 15k miles ago, but the code hasn't come back until just recently. I thought I had fixed it by really cleaning anything, including the intake flaps.

[xalfa]

Yeah, sounds more like vacuum leak than a sensor.

[PetrolDave]

Do you get the "kick" at 5500rpm? If you don't that a good clue that you have a vacuum leak (as it's caused by the "power flap" in the air cleaner box opening, which needs vacuum).

[rbbny]

Do you get the "kick" at 5500rpm? If you don't that a good clue that you have a vacuum leak (as it's caused by the "power flap" in the air cleaner box opening, which needs vacuum).

Had same issue. It was a airbox flap solenoid. We just to the flap out. No codes 12months plus,

[FWP!]

I wouldn't say there's a real kick at 5500, I'll have a look at the vacuum lines in the next few weeks, it's still pretty hot here in Phoenix. Hoping it cools down soon......!

[two2]

btw forgot to mention, did you pay attention to the bank number? because if it's always the same bank then it's most likely the position sensor. if it fluctuates between banks, than it's likely a vacuum leak. iirc, the code for bank 1 is p2015 so keep monitoring the codes each time they trigger.

[FWP!]

btw forgot to mention, did you pay attention to the bank number? because if it's always the same bank then it's most likely the position sensor. if it fluctuates between banks, than it's likely a vacuum leak. iirc, the code for bank 1 is p2015 so keep monitoring the codes each time they trigger.

I ran the vacuum test to see if the flaps and the cold air intake flap was also working, and everything was fine. So, no vacuum leak, which can only really mean it's the sensor. I'm still getting this p2020 code (it's been constant and comes back almost immediately after clearing all of the codes in engine 1 and engine II in VAG-COM).

I have to take off the IM this winter to do the coolant bypass mod, another carbon clean, and install the JHM spacers, so I'll replace the sensor then. Just wanted to let whoever finds this thread in a search that for me everything is functioning normally, it just appears to be a bad sensor (which is located on the back side of the intake manifold, meaning it has to come off to get to it). Fun!

This is the sensor I'm going to get - http://www.ecstuning.com/Audi-B7_RS4...ake/ES2707636/

[FWP!]

Just as an update for anyone who searches for this p2020 code - It will not go away and has no caused my check engine light to turn on. I checked via VAG COM and all of my readiness codes are set to "Passed" which is great, but the P2020 code is causing a MIL status set to ON which means it would fail emissions. Why it wants emissions to fail due to a dumb intake manifold flap is beyond me. I will need to replace the sensor, which I plan to do in the next few weeks.

[badbluers4]

I've been getting the same code for about the past 3 weeks now. Was waiting to do carbon clean in January and sort it out.

[Badtoyz]

ok for one check to make sure a line isn't interfering with the actuators actually opening and closing the flaps. second u can reach the sensor on the back without removing the intake but honestly I would just take it off. and third if u have a vac leak u will be way down on power. if u did the carbon clean and they didn't clean the intake it could be sticking a bit. grab the arms and make sure they move freely and easily.

bottom line s that theres a lot of things that will give u this code so im just saying don't throw money away and check all avenues. I got this code because a small piece of silicon got stuck to a flap and couldn't return back its "rest" position.

[badbluers4]

Just had this sensor replaced and a carbon clean at the same time and all I can say is OMG! I forgot how fast this car is without 60k of carbon! LOL So smooth when creeping slow at low RPM, and revs up so much faster, high end RPM is amazing and smooth...

[prfktgntlmn]

Just had this sensor replaced and a carbon clean at the same time and all I can say is OMG! I forgot how fast this car is without 60k of carbon! LOL So smooth when creeping slow at low RPM, and revs up so much faster, high end RPM is amazing and smooth...

You get it done at Solo?

[badbluers4]

You get it done at Solo?

Yessir!!! Only shop that can touch my car.

[Avus RS4]

Just had this sensor replaced and a carbon clean at the same time and all I can say is OMG! I forgot how fast this car is without 60k of carbon! LOL So smooth when creeping slow at low RPM, and revs up so much faster, high end RPM is amazing and smooth...

Is this the sensor you've replaced?

https://jhmotorsports.com/shop/catal...s4-p-2136.html

[Nuklear]

..

[QuattroAfrica]

Two2, have you DIY'd this? Have intermittent P2020 after changing the sensors and a proken sencor connector plug. Noticed a disorganised vundle of vacuum lines at the front of the engine. Wonnder wheher you have a vacuum line diagram or could send a picture of how it should look? Keen to sort this out myself.

[Est1976]

Hey, I have P2015 and P2020. MIL and EPC are on. I did find a vacuum leak from the hose to my airbox and I also had a comprimised solenoid valve, the one on the airbox. Repaired both, still EPC and MIL and codes. Dealer verified vacuum is good and we decided to remove the IM, it's in my kitchen right now and we are hoping it's due to a lot of 'play' in my intake manifold flaps/runner arm.

Look here, https://audirs4.weebly.com/uploads/2...tudyguide1.pdf this has a pic of the vacuum lines. It shouldn't be too complicated.

Good luck hunting!!