B5 2.7T to B6 A4 Wiring guide

[MurkyRivers_A4]

the ecu plug won't have the wire if its an auto according to elsawin. You'll have to pull the ecu plug apart and solder a wire to the pin(which should be there just no wire) and run that to your clutch switch be it through the body plugs or directly to the switch and the other side of the switch goes to ground.

That part scares me. I can solder, just not sure how good I would be soldering a wire to a pin....

For the clutch switch ground wire, since my A4 was a manual, that should still be grounded through the body harness, correct?

[igz]

I just checked mine as well my donor car is also a 2.7 allroad automatic. The ECU does not have a wire coming from 39... The car in swapping it into is a 3.0 04 avant 6 speed mt. The pin 13 on my t17e white is not red green but rather green grey doesn't matter but should I just pin that wire directly into the ECU via pin 39?

[ADCS]

Mine was an auto ECU and harness as well. For mine, the crimp was present in the harness just no wire terminated to it. Assuming they are all like that it should be simple to pop the crimp out and either crimp it to a wire or solder a wire to the crimp (after removing the crimp from the connector body).

What i did in my case was pull a wire + crimp of the same AWG out of an scrap/extra harness I had and placed​ it into the 2.7 connector in the appropriate location ( I think BEL was pin 39 as well). I did this for a few connections that were missing.

[MurkyRivers_A4]

Mine was an auto ECU and harness as well. For mine, the crimp was present in the harness just no wire terminated to it. Assuming they are all like that it should be simple to pop the crimp out and either crimp it to a wire or solder a wire to the crimp (after removing the crimp from the connector body).

What i did in my case was pull a wire + crimp of the same AWG out of an scrap/extra harness I had and placed​ it into the 2.7 connector in the appropriate location ( I think BEL was pin 39 as well). I did this for a few connections that were missing.

I did exactly what you did. Probably the fastest wiring I've ever done. Took longer to pull the wire from the spare harness than it did to place the wire in the car.

Works perfect, revs drop as they should between shifts, and no error for the clutch switch.

[blitz2190]

I did exactly what you did. Probably the fastest wiring I've ever done. Took longer to pull the wire from the spare harness than it did to place the wire in the car.

Works perfect, revs drop as they should between shifts, and no error for the clutch switch.

glad to hear, now time for upgrades lol.

[MurkyRivers_A4]

glad to hear, now time for upgrades lol.

Right? Lol. So much to do now that everything is working proper. First step is getting a new tune. The GIAC is ok but I know Motoza can and will do better.

[igz]

awesome. ok ill go see what i can do, can someone verify that the relay next to the ecu is infact the starter interlock relay? just want to double check. mitchell is saying its being the dash... murkywaters and i believe it is.

[igz]

little update, recieved a 01 s4 ecu, car is running now. still need to figure out a couple of issues with the cluster showing safe but i think im on the right track. :) thanks again guys

[blitz2190]

the cluster showing safe means the key you are using is not paired with the cluster, the ecu will still run as it wont have an immo, but you may get flashing lights from the alarm.

[igz]

its my original key, i can lock and unlock the car with the fob and everything, do you think it might have something to do with me unplugging the cluster a while back, maybe i can just reset it.

[jokh]

from note #1 the post30 is that a 12+ or a ground?

[jokh]

3) the main black/blue injector wire should tie into T10a BROWN Pin1 for a fused connection that turns on with the ecu fuel pump relay signal.

the black/blue and brown pin1 shall they be connected in a relay, that is beeing turned on with the signal from the RED pin 10 red/blue?

[igz]

OK little update, the safe message is gone i disconnected the battery for a while and connected it back, everything is ok. Used the fan diagram you made works perfect. thanks.
i do how ever still have some issues, im having a display on my dash for "press clutch pedal to start car" i believe thats the grey/white wire that i didnt use?...
also my rpm tach isnt working. from what i could figure out from reading its the green.blue wire from the black connector on my b5 harness that goes to pin 37 on the ecu, what wire does that connect to on the b6 side that goes to the cluster? any help would be great.

[blitz2190]

from note #1 the post30 is that a 12+ or a ground?

post 30 is an always hot 12v connection to the battery.

3) the main black/blue injector wire should tie into T10a BROWN Pin1 for a fused connection that turns on with the ecu fuel pump relay signal. As in this wire is hot when the ecu turns on the fuel pump

the black/blue and brown pin1 shall they be connected in a relay, that is beeing turned on with the signal from the RED pin 10 red/blue? Nope if you split the ecu pin 3 wire from the injectors then you just have to wire it as its said, if you did not then you have to change a few things

OK little update, the safe message is gone i disconnected the battery for a while and connected it back, everything is ok. Used the fan diagram you made works perfect. thanks.
i do how ever still have some issues, im having a display on my dash for "press clutch pedal to start car" i believe thats the grey/white wire that i didnt use?...
also my rpm tach isnt working. from what i could figure out from reading its the green.blue wire from the black connector on my b5 harness that goes to pin 37 on the ecu, what wire does that connect to on the b6 side that goes to the cluster? any help would be great.

what ecu are you using, if it came from an A6 it will not work without being flashed to an S4 tune, the m-box works well and passes emissions, as does the A-box with some tricks but I would recommend the m-box tune. To more accurately answer your question, there is no tach wire in the b6 its done through the canbus to the ecu, which is why it needs a S4 tune, the A6 relied on the tach wire.

[Krzysiekvtec]

Gentlemen, I apologize in advance for the translation.
Problem after swap at 2.7 to a4b7
The light constantly shines
Abs 5.7 has the encoding done, the error in the attachment
I ask you for help how to do?

[blitz2190]

looks to me like you cut the wires to the brake pressure sensor that is on the back of the abs pump, and your missing the yaw rate/Acceleration sensor that is behind the head unit in the b6. did you get this when you swapped the 5.7 module in?

[MurkyRivers_A4]

Do we have cruise control options yet, Blitz? I have a 10 hour drive coming up and would like to have that lol.

[Krzysiekvtec]

I had abs 8.0 changed to 5.7. So I have to b6 with this sensor add? The pressure sensor is connected according to the diagram on the first page

[blitz2190]

Do we have cruise control options yet, Blitz? I have a 10 hour drive coming up and would like to have that lol.

I do and I'm going to get a new stalk, because I owe it to someone for donating theirs. I'll have to take pics as its not really the cleanest way to go about it. Basically I removed the pin header and plastic around it from the b6 stalk, removed all the resistors from the stalk board and soldered wires directly to it then ran those wire to the ecu. It works to switch my tunes but I still haven't wired my, clutch switch to see if cruise control actually works.

I had abs 8.0 changed to 5.7. So I have to b6 with this sensor add? The pressure sensor is connected according to the diagram on the first page

you need the g202 yaw rate sensor behind the stereo head unit from the b6, and it needs to be mounted in the same orientation as it was on the b6. Also the wires to the pressure sensor should not have been cut, those in the diagram are just there for reference, the pressure sensor should be on the back side of the abs pump. do you have any pics?

[MurkyRivers_A4]

I do and I'm going to get a new stalk, because I owe it to someone for donating theirs. I'll have to take pics as its not really the cleanest way to go about it. Basically I removed the pin header and plastic around it from the b6 stalk, removed all the resistors from the stalk board and soldered wires directly to it then ran those wire to the ecu. It works to switch my tunes but I still haven't wired my, clutch switch to see if cruise control actually works.

I have an extra stock so definitely looking forward to the pics. This would be the final piece to get everything normal.

[blitz2190]

I have an extra stock so definitely looking forward to the pics. This would be the final piece to get everything normal.

Well that and a trigger for the aux fan for when the a/c condenser is hot. Speaking of which i need one more person to test for when i get the controller made hopefully in the next few weeks, it was already hot a few days here. Currently looking at osh park for the boards but they take like 3 weeks to get.

[jokh]

so tried to start up the engine after finishing the harness, car wont start.
Checked that ECU gets power and it does, but the ecu does not have any wires at pos. 21-22-23-24, so it looks like ecu is powered from ecu pos 20 and not 21.
Fuel pump and starter works fine, however car does not make spark. The coils get 12V and ground as it should, but when turning the engine the coils gets one small signal, but that is all it gets.

Immoblizer is removed from ECU.

Have some experienced something like this? or any advice

Thanks

[Matt_g]

I'm currently doing my swap using a 2003 3.0 01E, a 2001 Allroad auto engine and harness, and a 2001 M-box. I have a couple of questions.

I don't have a wire on the body side for the crash signal/airbag signal. My diagrams say this wire was being phased out in M.Y. 2003. Has anyone else encountered this and does anyone know of a fix?

I know a lot of people don't use the after run coolant pump but I plan on hooking mine up. I'm pretty sure I've figured it out using a B6 relay from the old harness, I was just wondering why it's not even mentioned.

I've also been trying to figure out the cruise control issue while I was figuring out the wiring. I have 3 extra stalks that I'm willing to sacrifice for the greater good. I've already disassembled one to try and figure out the signals and I would love to discuss thie way you modified yours to make it work.

Thanks in advance for any and all help

[AudiA4_20T]

I'm currently doing my swap using a 2003 3.0 01E, a 2001 Allroad auto engine and harness, and a 2001 M-box. I have a couple of questions.

I don't have a wire on the body side for the crash signal/airbag signal. My diagrams say this wire was being phased out in M.Y. 2003. Has anyone else encountered this and does anyone know of a fix?

I know a lot of people don't use the after run coolant pump but I plan on hooking mine up. I'm pretty sure I've figured it out using a B6 relay from the old harness, I was just wondering why it's not even mentioned.

I've also been trying to figure out the cruise control issue while I was figuring out the wiring. I have 3 extra stalks that I'm willing to sacrifice for the greater good. I've already disassembled one to try and figure out the signals and I would love to discuss thie way you modified yours to make it work.

Thanks in advance for any and all help

1. Crash wire gets hooked up to another wire if it's not on your wiring. I'll check when I'm home
2. It's not mentioned because it's a lot of wiring for nothing.
3. Blitz would have more here.

[Matt_g]

1. Crash wire gets hooked up to another wire if it's not on your wiring. I'll check when I'm home
2. It's not mentioned because it's a lot of wiring for nothing.
3. Blitz would have more here.

In reference to #2 why do you feel like this pump isn't important? Isn't it's sole purpose to continue circulation of the coolant after the engine is turned off to help cool the turbos? I would think that if the engineers at Audi felt it was important enough to make then it must make a difference on life expectancy of the turbos. I don't know this for sure but I'm just sharing my line of thoughts.

[tankdeer]

In reference to #2 why do you feel like this pump isn't important? Isn't it's sole purpose to continue circulation of the coolant after the engine is turned off to help cool the turbos? I would think that if the engineers at Audi felt it was important enough to make then it must make a difference on life expectancy of the turbos. I don't know this for sure but I'm just sharing my line of thoughts.

Yes, that's it's sole purpose. It actually runs the coolant in reverse too. Personally I would opt to keep it if possible

[AudiA4_20T]

In reference to #2 why do you feel like this pump isn't important? Isn't it's sole purpose to continue circulation of the coolant after the engine is turned off to help cool the turbos? I would think that if the engineers at Audi felt it was important enough to make then it must make a difference on life expectancy of the turbos. I don't know this for sure but I'm just sharing my line of thoughts.

It's generally deleted by the B5 guys with 0 issues, is another spot for coolant leaks, and requires a bunch of extra wiring.

[blitz2190]

On my phone atm so clint will beat me to the first question, as for the after run it can be done but unless you swap the switch its all but usless as its too high temp, the stock one should never come on if you properlycool the car down. Ill post how i wired it for a few people when I'm home.

[tankdeer]

Yes but swapping the temp sensor is easy and well documented.

[blitz2190]

So A quick run down of the after run pump and how I usually hook it up. Using the b6 relays I replace the one that supplies the ecm power with a generic 5 post relay so that when the key is on it powers the ecu, and ll the associated bits. when the key is off it supplies power to another relay, both the coil and supply pole (I use the stock b6 one thats closest to the fron of the ecu box), then using the switched ground from the after run switch, T10n (orange plug) pin 9 brown/red, to trigger the relay, which supplies T10n (orange plug) pin 3 red/yellow with power. When I get home I'll add another diagram to the first page if this is unclear. As for the crash signal you can tap it at a few modules, the easiest being the ccm under the carpet, T12i (black plug) pin 8 lilac/blue. Side note on my 2004 1.8 the wire was on the body plugs and worked, so its hit or miss if its actually been discontinued.

If you do wire the afterrun pump do like tankdeer said and swap the switch for a lower temp one, otherwise it will probably never turn on unless you do a hard pull then immediately turn of the car, which is a big no-no for turbo cars.

[Matt_g]

I was hoping you guys would say there's a wire right behind the dash because I really didn't want to have to tap into the CCM or the SRS but if I have to then so be it.

The way you described your wiring is the way I did mine already I just haven't tested it yet. I did already get the lower temp switch due to all of the research I did before attempting this swap. I completely see the logic behind your reasoning on why Audi installed them and I will never do that but I still like the idea of it especially after long drives.

[Julian Aksnes]

Hello! Im currently soldering the 2,7 harness on to the B7 pins, since the terminals are different.
Nice wiring guide!
But I still have like 10-12 wires left from the 2,7 BES engine (manual) thats not on the wiring guide.
Also, my ECU is not getting power. I have used the 30 +12v on the nut
The ground is in place. Suggestions?

just some pictures for attention :D

[MurkyRivers_A4]

Dont forget Cruise Control :)

[blitz2190]

Dont forget Cruise Control :)

If I can't find that stalk tonight I'll buy another to take pics.

[MurkyRivers_A4]

If I can't find that stalk tonight I'll buy another to take pics.

I have a spare I can send to you if you need it.

[blitz2190]

You have a PM sir.

[blitz2190]

BES? do you mean BEL? also this is only for the APB harness, though the bel is doable its not covered here at all.

EDIT

after looking the BEL and BES should be the same wiring wise, I hadn't seen the different engine code.

[Julian Aksnes]

BES? do you mean BEL? also this is only for the APB harness, though the bel is doable its not covered here at all.

EDIT

after looking the BEL and BES should be the same wiring wise, I hadn't seen the different engine code.

The ARE/BES is similar to the BEL I suppose :)
I guess I have to figure it out by myself then

[blitz2190]

i would talk to clint about making you one. I believe he has done BEL harnesses before, I could but I do not have the time to make a wiring chart let alone a harness at the moment.

[Julian Aksnes]

Im
Having major difficulties with this harness-nightmare
Ive hooked up elsawin on the computer in the neighbour-room.
I have a 2.0 TDI B7, my guess is that the diesel is by far not the same wiring as a petrol.
For example i dont even have a fuel relay..


D23 - Connector (over fuse 229) T10ar(T10n) ORANGE Pin1 red/green T10 BLACK Pin5 red/green t17d RED Pin17 green

whats D23 - connector? The green wire in pin17 goes to a fuse in the sidepanel (15 amp) that says fuel pump on my B7.
And the only place I can see pin3 from ECU mentioned is in the *1 note about the injectors. Whats that have to to with the switched 12v for the pin3?

Some pictures from today