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  1. #1
    Active Member One Ring
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    Installed a Mann Provent recently...

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    Figured I would post up some photos of my recent Provent installation. I am pretty satisfied with how it came out, and since I was looking through peoples' catch can installations looking for inspirations when I went to build mine, I thought I should post up my own.

    The tubing is .750" OD stainless tube, and it is stepped up to 1" OD on the ends (to fit the 1" ports on the Provent 200 and the stainless tube coming from the intake pipe). The basic goal was to eliminate using the factory setup where the PCV valve utilizes a channel in the valvecover to route gasses to the intake when under boost. I have read that these channels fail (they let engine oil into them from under the valvecover), and have discovered that mine too was letting oil in. I was going through roughly a quart of oil every 1400 miles or so, and my car would belch out huge clouds of oil burned smoke when I took 2nd and 3rd to redline while getting on the freeway every now and then. I have also pulled my intake boots off the intercooler piping before and had 3/4 cup of engine oil pour out. Yuck. We are all aware of the factory pcv problems -- this is my solution.

    I went with the provent because it stands out to me as a well engineered item. I also like it because it has a REAL FILTER inside. I see so many catch cans that are supposed to rely on "race proven swirl-pot technology". Have you seen the size of the water/oil droplets that come out of the valve cover? It is almost steam. The vapor isn't huge droplets of oil that are immediately going to separate out of the air as soon as they hit a given surface. And (if your engine is in acceptable shape) the amount of blowby gasses at any given time aren't going to be traveling at a high enough velocity through a 3/4" or 1" tube in order to centrifugally coalesce on the walls of a "swirl pot". The stuff that gathers in these things is mostly a function of condenstation, because the catch can generally stays at a lower temerature than the engine vapors. And the filter inside seems like it will do a better job of gathering the oil/water droplets than a swirl design. All of this is obviously my opinion on the matter...but if you know something that I said has been tested to be wrong, I am all ears!

    So far I have about 1200 miles on the setup, and I have completely eliminated the belching oil smoke from oil in my intake problem...at least so far. Oil consumption seems to have fallen to more normal levels as well -- I have burned about 1/5 of a quart over the 1200 miles. I have the drain of the catch can blocked off right now, so that I can observe what is being caught and how much of it. It is mostly water, with a faint oil film inside of the can. I think the factory oil separators do a decent job of pulling oil vapor out of the air, this is sort of a last defense before it goes back into the intake. I may just install a solenoid on the drain of this can and let it empty the [mostly water] mixture out of the bottom (routed to somewhere near the ground) when the car is shut off.

    Anyways, here are some photos of the install, hopefully they will give someone else an idea for their own setup. The goal was to have the install look somewhat factory. I bought an Integrated engineering PCV block off plate and reverse engineered it so that I could make out out of stainless steel. I wanted it out of stainless so that I could weld my outlet tube onto it, as I found that threaded fittings were going to be too clumsy to fit them into the space that I wanted. I still need to put tabs on the tubes to coneect them to the engine -- but for now it is a pretty solid setup. The bent tubes are a side-effect of being in the hydraulics tubing/piping business Let me know what you think!












  2. #2
    Veteran Member Four Rings mec's Avatar
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    You should sell these kits. They would sell faster than hot pretzels.

    I love it.

  3. #3
    Veteran Member Four Rings jimrobbington's Avatar
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    Very clean and badass!

    Sent from my SGH-M919 using Tapatalk
    2021 Audi S4, P34 Intake

  4. #4
    Veteran Member Four Rings fly300kts's Avatar
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    03 Golf GTI - 03 Golf 2.0l - 04 Golf 2.0L
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    Clean indeed. Great setup

    Phil

  5. #5
    Veteran Member Four Rings A-BlacK_MambA-4's Avatar
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    '05.5 A4 2.0T Tip Revo Stage 2; Wifes 2013 Chevy Cruze
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    The piping looks much better than rubber hoses running through there. Nicely done sir
    -JOEL

    The Real Black Mamba

  6. #6
    Veteran Member Four Rings RoguesGambit's Avatar
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    You sell them, I'll definitely buy!
    JHM St2 w/HPFP, JHM HFC+B7 S4 FI Catback, JHM St1 Clutch/Flywheel, S4 Recaros, JHM Shift-Trio+Cross Rod, Bi-xenon Headlights, JOM Smoked Tail Lights, Enkei PF01, Conti DWS, Solo-werks S1 Coilovers

    More to come

    Also, my story: https://www.amazon.com/Sage-Mike-Fra...7646774&sr=1-1

  7. #7
    Veteran Member Four Rings shiro1745's Avatar
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    Very nice job
    - Chip

    034 Stage 2 ECU | 034 Stage 2 TCU | Wagner IC | IE Downpipe | ECS CAI Intake | Fuel-it e85 | Mishimoto Catch Can

  8. #8
    Veteran Member Four Rings
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    Q7 . A3 3.2 Quattro and way too many cars in the garage.
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    Very nice , looks very OEM . I love working with SS, good job .

  9. #9
    Veteran Member Four Rings LoKisSpYdR's Avatar
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    What everybody above said. That looks incredibly OE.
    B6 A4 1.8T Dolphin Gray qM
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  10. #10
    Active Member One Ring
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    Thanks for the kind words everyone, I'm happy people are digging the setup. No plans to sell really, its hard enough to find time for these small projects on my own car between work and life...

  11. #11
    Veteran Member Three Rings ktish's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by mmitocky View Post
    Thanks for the kind words everyone, I'm happy people are digging the setup. No plans to sell really, its hard enough to find time for these small projects on my own car between work and life...
    I think you should change your plans :P

  12. #12
    Active Member Four Rings drumnjuny's Avatar
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    damn i want one.

  13. #13
    Established Member Two Rings
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    Looks very nice! I'd love a setup like that. Which provent model are you using?
    B7 A4 Avant/Stg.3

  14. #14
    Stage 2 Banner Advertiser Four Rings Jake@JHM's Avatar
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    Looks great!

    For those of you wanting to attempt this yourself, we sell the Provent 200!


    http://jhmotorsports.com/shop/catalo...00-p-1074.html


    Jake

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  15. #15
    Active Member One Ring
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jake@JHM View Post
    Looks great!

    For those of you wanting to attempt this yourself, we sell the Provent 200!


    http://jhmotorsports.com/shop/catalo...00-p-1074.html


    Jake
    Thanks! I am using the 200 model. I think its sized for engine output up to 350 hp if I remember correctly.

  16. #16

  17. #17
    Established Member Two Rings bseven's Avatar
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    Any updates to how this thing is working for you? Any noticeable drop in valve gunk build up?

  18. #18
    Veteran Member Four Rings Charles.waite's Avatar
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    Seattle, WA

    Damn. No idea how I missed this the first time around. Thats a super clean install.
    -CP
    2008 2.0t S-Line Ti 6MT Avant
    2017 Q7 3.0t
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    SOLD -- 2006 A4 2.0TQ Avant Tiptronic

  19. #19
    Veteran Member Four Rings Biged243's Avatar
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    ea I don't know how I missed it also, but very good job.
    What ever makes sense go with the opposite and you got it

  20. #20
    Established Member Two Rings
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    Great install, really professional. Would love to have an update on how much build up there is in the can and if it is keeping the intake any cleaner.

  21. #21
    Veteran Member Four Rings kaz02a4's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by MrBigglesworth View Post
    Great install, really professional. Would love to have an update on how much build up there is in the can and if it is keeping the intake any cleaner.
    x2. Love how it looks. I hope it would be doing a great job as well.
    RIP B7: Stg. 1 UM, RS4 rear sway, Apikol snub mount, trip computer retrofit, OEM bi-xenons retrofit, RS4 seats retrofit, B7 S4 Ti wheels, BSH CC, 034 SD mounts, restitched steering wheel by my own hand

    Hello B8: P+ Quattro, 6 Speed, Sport. Stg. 1 APR, CR-15, Fly Designs steering wheel, Euro Impulse shift knob, Macan BBK, Alu Kreuz, 034 RSB + endlinks, SPC control arms...

  22. #22
    Veteran Member Four Rings yeoj112689's Avatar
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    So you need to sell this as a kit. Pending price of course but hell its awesome.
    || 2006 Audi A4 Quattro 2.0T || Mods and stuff

  23. #23
    Active Member One Ring
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    Hey guys,

    So I have been running this thing for almost a year now, and here is what I know:

    When the weather isn't freezing, my setup works pretty well. The tank catches a lot of water, and a little oil residue over time. I can't comment for keeping the intake clean, as I haven't pulled the manifold to look at the valves. I tried looking at my valves with a boroscope (before the catch can got installed), and the valves looked OK. By OK I mean that they were black with carbon, but not a whole lot of that buildup you see on some people's pictures. I haven't looked since. My oil consumption did go down a noticeable amount...as did the huge cloud of smoke my car would belch out when I hammered it getting on the freeway (after mostly tame city driving for a couple days). I honestly think that both of these improvements have to do with eliminating the port that crosses the valve cover and connects the PCV valve to the turbo inlet; I have that blocked off. I think oil was getting pulled into that channel (glue broken down) and just leaking straight into my intercooler piping.

    The wintertime, however, this setup wasn't that great. All winter long I dealt with tons of gunk buildup in the can (and I imagine in the stainless lines too) from the moisture and oil vapor condensing on the frigid surfaces. Even after more than a half hour of driving, the stainless lines and the tank would barely be warm to the touch. I think that the cold plumbing didn't allow the water vapors to make it through the system properly, and instead just mixed with the oil vapors and caused that nasty white sludge in the lines and can. On top of this, this mixture would occasionally freeze overnight (I am in Cleveland -- we had a pretty cold winter this time around), and magnify the problem.

    This lack of breathing led to an excess buildup of condensation in the crankcase, which formed water in my oil pan, which froze when I was out of town for a week. See this thread

    So now that the weather is warmed up a bit I am back to satisfactory operation...but I am planning a new design before the next winter. I am considering either heating the plumbing with coolant, and making an aluminum catch can that is also shrouded with a coolant jacket, or just make an aluminum/stainless catch can and change its shape so that it can live above the exhaust header (so it warms up quickly and stays warm).

    Not sure what Ill do yet, but I'll post up any changes when they happen!

    BTW, the engine is running great after my sorta-rebuild. I replaced all the lifters, cam chain and tensioner, oil pump chain and tensioner, timing belt, polished the cam journals with 600/1200 grit sandpaper, polished the fuel pump lobe (it looked pretty good as it was, as well as the cam journals themselves), replaced most of the main bearings (also looked great), con rod bearings (looked perfect!), and other small things. Didnt pull the head. It runs noticeably smoother, ill swear by it! The car has almost 160k now.

  24. #24
    Established Member Two Rings bseven's Avatar
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    I would just suggest making the lines to the OCC as short as possible, and then if you still have issues use a heater element that just runs off a 5v signal. I would think there has to already be one somewhere in the stock pcv plumbing somewhere that could either be moved or replicated and put right before the OCC inlet.

  25. #25
    Veteran Member Four Rings bobkatkat's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by mmitocky View Post
    Hey guys,

    So I have been running this thing for almost a year now, and here is what I know:

    The wintertime, however, this setup wasn't that great. All winter long I dealt with tons of gunk buildup in the can (and I imagine in the stainless lines too) from the moisture and oil vapor condensing on the frigid surfaces. Even after more than a half hour of driving, the stainless lines and the tank would barely be warm to the touch. I think that the cold plumbing didn't allow the water vapors to make it through the system properly, and instead just mixed with the oil vapors and caused that nasty white sludge in the lines and can. On top of this, this mixture would occasionally freeze overnight (I am in Cleveland -- we had a pretty cold winter this time around), and magnify the problem.
    Sorry the Provent caused so many issues. Quite a few of us have tried and failed with the Provent 200. To bad you did not see some of the threads here on AZ of the clogging and freezing issues we all have had. We tested the Provent 200 on two vehicles and found that the design is very good with 1" inlets and outlets and a pressure release valve, but the issue is with the paper style filter. It functions well for a short time until the filter saturates or in colder temps or short runs clogs. This would happen in about 500 miles. At $25 a filter that would be expensive and a hassle to keep it optimal. We did try modifying the filter element with stainless steel mesh witch worked but still needed to be cleaned ever 500 or so. This setup has been tried by many others on AZ with the same results. Many have tried and moved on. This is best left to large industrial diesel engines.

  26. #26
    Established Member Two Rings bseven's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by bobkatkat View Post
    Sorry the Provent caused so many issues. Quite a few of us have tried and failed with the Provent 200. To bad you did not see some of the threads here on AZ of the clogging and freezing issues we all have had. We tested the Provent 200 on two vehicles and found that the design is very good with 1" inlets and outlets and a pressure release valve, but the issue is with the paper style filter. It functions well for a short time until the filter saturates or in colder temps or short runs clogs. This would happen in about 500 miles. At $25 a filter that would be expensive and a hassle to keep it optimal. We did try modifying the filter element with stainless steel mesh witch worked but still needed to be cleaned ever 500 or so. This setup has been tried by many others on AZ with the same results. Many have tried and moved on. This is best left to large industrial diesel engines.
    Did you try running it without the filter all together?

  27. #27
    Veteran Member Four Rings bobkatkat's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by bseven View Post
    Did you try running it without the filter all together?
    Without some sort of element to capture the oil it would just be an empty can which would do nothing.

  28. #28
    Established Member Two Rings bseven's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by bobkatkat View Post
    Without some sort of element to capture the oil it would just be an empty can which would do nothing.
    That's not true...so long as it enters the can on a tangent and exits the other "swirler" on a tangent. Although the filter element really is the main feature of the can. What about mounting it between the oil filter housing cyclonic separator and the valve cover, and then use the adapter plate that connects ports 1R and 2, block off the port going to intake manifold and then keep 1F running to the turbo inlet pipe? Then the lines running into and out of the can would be running in the uphill section, it would be damn near touching the motor, the lines would be crazy short, and you could still run the drain as a return if desired? Just thoughts. it really seems like it has to be workable. maybe other parts of the system just need to be messed around with a little to accommodate?

  29. #29
    Veteran Member Four Rings thenofjboy's Avatar
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    There Def needs to be an element/baffle to catch the blow by. Otherwise, it would just enter the can and go right out. The idea above about the blowby entering at a tangent makes sense but might be a lot of work to get everything to flow right..


    Ive been running the 034 Vortex can on my B5 and currently my B7 for years. It works great but its a little too tall for my liking.
    "Vortex design means incoming gasses hit round cylinder wall being forces to spin in a "vortex", centrifugal force causes oil and water particles to fling outward and drain down the walls to be collected or returned to the sump. The outlet on the can extends down 4" inside the can to create a baffle and prevent incoming fluids to being expelled directly out of the can"

    There was talk above about a heated catch can or heated lines. I like what this guy did! He just tapped into his coolant line going to into the reservoir..simple idea
    http://www.audizine.com/forum/showth...ted-catch-tank


    Sean

    The New
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  30. #30
    Veteran Member Four Rings bobkatkat's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by bseven View Post
    That's not true...so long as it enters the can on a tangent and exits the other "swirler" on a tangent. Although the filter element really is the main feature of the can. What about mounting it between the oil filter housing cyclonic separator and the valve cover, and then use the adapter plate that connects ports 1R and 2, block off the port going to intake manifold and then keep 1F running to the turbo inlet pipe? Then the lines running into and out of the can would be running in the uphill section, it would be damn near touching the motor, the lines would be crazy short, and you could still run the drain as a return if desired? Just thoughts. it really seems like it has to be workable. maybe other parts of the system just need to be messed around with a little to accommodate?
    Just search here on AZ, lots of people have tried to make this can work and have abandoned it, me being one of them. If it was designed to function with out a filter then it would not have a filter. When we modified one with stainless steel mesh it it did not clog with may as much and pressure did not build but it did not stop oil from going back into the intake. It did collect a tiny amount of oil/water but was essentially a giant past through.

  31. #31
    Veteran Member Three Rings baldy's Avatar
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    There's actually two different types of filters for it guys. I ordered with the synthetic one (not sure which part number it was) and it has been fine. I had to take it out when I went in for my failed HPFP warranty because the area service rep said the car needed to be stock when he submitted pictures part of the warranty.

    http://www.nationalfleetparts.com/im...ucts/37091.jpg
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  32. #32
    Established Member Two Rings bseven's Avatar
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    ^^^thats good news! You haven't had any freezing issues during the colder months? Pics of your install?

  33. #33
    Veteran Member Four Rings bobkatkat's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by bseven View Post
    ^^^thats good news! You haven't had any freezing issues during the colder months? Pics of your install?

    Depends where he is in BC, My Vancouver Island vehicles never have issues because almost never goes below freezing. Freezing issues usually only happen prolonged cold weather, the colder the worse, and exaggerated by short runs where moisture and condensation build not burn off.

  34. #34
    Established Member Two Rings bseven's Avatar
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    So, how are the freezing issues not an issue on every other catch can then? Just don't return the oil/water to the oil pan and run the suction side to an exhaust Venturi then. It seems like you're just being a downer and only saying it won't work, rather than trying to come up with a way it will work.

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