2.0 EFR 7670 Build

[PreciseD]

why don't you fix your tune using the aeb intake manifold instead ? it's no a step back at all , with that intake you can push more that 30 psi manifold pressure with no problems. After the arrival of IE intake you will need just minor changes to the original file

That is going to be my second option. If IE can not deliver on their estimated schedule then I will have to do it this way. Being that this is a custom tune file, each little change I make can and will affect the performance of the car, either good or bad.

[mariosa4]

Do it like this , you won't miss much, if the engine is able to hit 500whp then the intake mani is not an issue. By the way i don't understand why the charge you so much for little changes in software. i have a custom maestro Eurodyne tune with AEB manifold, if i change to IE they won't charge me more than 200$ for fixing my tune here in Greece friend...

[Tyler@IE]

Awesome build, your gonna make a few of those 2.7T swapped B6's scratch heads as you fly by.

That is going to be my second option. If IE can not deliver on their estimated schedule then I will have to do it this way. Being that this is a custom tune file, each little change I make can and will affect the performance of the car, either good or bad.

Everything is on time so far, we should be good for estimated delivery. We will let you guys know of course if anything changes!

[PreciseD]

Do it like this , you won't miss much, if the engine is able to hit 500whp then the intake mani is not an issue. By the way i don't understand why the charge you so much for little changes in software. i have a custom maestro Eurodyne tune with AEB manifold, if i change to IE they won't charge me more than 200$ for fixing my tune hear in Greece friend...

Ok let me be clear. The first tune is a base tune to get the car running which will be with the AEB Intake. The second tune is going to be after the car has been broken in and has no issues. This second tune is going to be the full blown package. Since this will be a real custom tune (sorry I don't count Eurodynes "OTS" Dealer tunes custom) I want to make sure I have the new IE intake on because its going to have the Hemi TB which will require adaptation VIA the ECU. There is much more involved then just swapping an intake and updating a File.

[PreciseD]

Awesome build, your gonna make a few of those 2.7T swapped B6's scratch heads as you fly by.



Everything is on time so far, we should be good for estimated delivery. We will let you guys know of course if anything changes!

Thanks Tyler, I can't wait to get this on the road and I really am thankful for the arsenal of amazing products the IE makes. Now whats up with that sponsorship haha

[mariosa4]

if you've decided to wait for IE manifold to fix the final tune file then it's ok,that manifold worth it's money that's for sure. On the other hand if you want to be safe you seriously must consider to install the water meth injection, especially if your intake pressure is close to 30 psi. In my case i've gained 30 whp on dynojet using meth, but the most important i had 18 degrees of timing at 7000 rpm on 30 psi ( total 430 whp on 30 psi on a HTA3076r)

[PreciseD]

if you've decided to wait for IE manifold to fix the final tune file then it's ok,that manifold worth it's money that's for sure. On the other hand if you want to be safe you seriously must consider to install the water meth injection, especially if your intake pressure is close to 30 psi. In my case i've gained 30 whp on dynojet using meth, but the most important i had 18 degrees of timing at 7000 rpm on 30 psi ( total 430 whp on 30 psi on a HTA3076r)

What nozzle size did you use, where did you place it, did you use multiple locations, did you tune for the meth or use it as an add-on without tune? I am only considering it as a safety option to lower IAT and reduce detonation but it could be used as I plan on going over 30 PSI.

Did you rev past 7K. The head I am getting should be capable of 9K.

[mariosa4]

What nozzle size did you use, where did you place it, did you use multiple locations, did you tune for the meth or use it as an add-on without tune? I am only considering it as a safety option to lower IAT and reduce detonation but it could be used as I plan on going over 30 PSI.

Did you rev past 7K. The head I am getting should be capable of 9K.

there is no meaning to rev past 8k rpm , whatever this motor can produce is under that limit not beyond. if you fix the head to withstand 9k then you'll need extra strong springs that will destroy valve guides in 10k klm and if i'm not correct ask any mechanic that knows a few things about 20vt...
Firstly i've used AEM water meth cause i'm running mafless tune so i couldn't use maf only map pressure to guide the pump.I've used only one big nozzle about 20cm from throttle body. Just for the dyno we used a super methanol mixture that gave me 30whp, on every day use only 50-50 mixture just for safety , to reduce IATs and avoid detonation. The tune is supersafe (11.9 afr) and fixed to work without meth, the ecu auto calibrates the injectors when using meth not to be too rich.
as for the tune itself ,it uses the maestro base file with all the safes and limitations and after that was built on dyno. i'm very pleased with the results cause is working smoothly at all rpm range with no misfires with f5dpor sparks.
The tubular manifold is the most important in high power expectations like yours , in my case i've used pagparts cast mani, not something special powerwise but uncrackable.
i'll come up with some logs i've made and shows the importance of water meth regarding detonation

[PreciseD]

Got bored last night and after a few monkey shoulders I decieded to mount my Cupra R Lip to my USP lower valance.



I am not fond of the body lines that most people have when they do this so I cut my Lip in half.



At first I was going to fill in the gap in the middle and keep the look that most use, but trying to be different I started hacking away.



Now that my body lines match up I wanted the Lip to look good from all angles so I sculpted these out of the remaining Lip.







Overall I am very happy with the results




Please excuse the iPhone pictures and rough edges. This is just temporary until I mold the plastic together with bumper repair epoxy. I will try to get some better pictures tonight as well.

[MMMB00ST_A4]

Well, this thread de-escalated quickly...

[PreciseD]

Haha yeah sorry about that. Been away for 2 weeks, but I do have good news. Engine is done and will be going in next week. I'll try to get more updates but these months are rather busy for me. Wedding, maybe a kid, new house and the likes lol.


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[MMMB00ST_A4]

Well, that's good. At least you'll only have to pay for one tune now, haha. I yoke, I yoke...

[PreciseD]

Lol yeah it looks that way ;-) I did get a bunch of parts in. ST coilovers, IE stage 3.5 timing belt kit and a upper and lower gasket set. New hoses and a SAI delete kit plus I'll be working on my custom bumper this weekend so I hope I'll have some updates.


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[MMMB00ST_A4]

All that, and you went ST for coils? Gross..

[PreciseD]

All that, and you went ST for coils? Gross..

Yeah I wanted to try them out. Plus they are under $600 and would be more comfortable on the street. If I find them to not be what I'm looking for I will sell them and get something better.


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[PreciseD]

Well all these parts are going to the shop tomorrow. Looks like I'll finally be able to make some much needed posts to this thread.


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[Audi body]

Yes post pics and videos are much needed and wanted

[PreciseD]

I will try to get as many as I can and share with all. I seriously can not wait to get some videos of this thing on the road once it's done. I plan to scare the shit out of my wife lol so look for that video.


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[War Machine]

That front lip though... The fck.

[PreciseD]

That front lip though... The fck.

Soooooo you love it........ Or


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[customa4]

I'm curious to see that lip installed. Props for doing something different. I like the cupra lip a lot but I think what you did to it is possible to pull off. As I said, I'm interested to see it installed.

[PreciseD]

I'm really trying to make it look like something that belongs. I really hope this weekend I can finish it but I am a bit busy. I will at least try to remove the glue gun mess and bond them with the proper epoxy.


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[customa4]

Hopes it comes out nice. Good luck.

[PreciseD]

Thank you


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[Turbavanttro]

You should consider getting the exhaust manifold ceramic coated before installing it. Under hood temperatures will be one of the most important issues to contend with and anything you can do to manage them should be seriously attempted.

[PreciseD]

You should consider getting the exhaust manifold ceramic coated before installing it. Under hood temperatures will be one of the most important issues to contend with and anything you can do to manage them should be seriously attempted.

So I should get some hood ventzzzz lol...

I was contemplating it but I like the look of the SS and the welding on this thing is artwork. If in the future it becomes an issue I guess I will have to get it coated.

[JEENYUS]

I think the lower valence with the lip will look good. It's a super creative way of putting it on. I am excited to see it installed.

[Turbavanttro]

Heat is going to be a huge issue, and that manifold is culprit #1. Remember, I have that manifold on my EFR, it is still a work or art with the black ceramic coating and with cloth wrap. If you don't do alot of heat shielding, you are going to have some seriously brittle electrical wires. Seeing a beautiful weld is not as important as protecting your engine, IMO.

Don't forget the coilpack wires are pretty much right next to where that manifold will be sitting.

[AudiA4_20T]

Yeah but is it really worth it? Pretty sure the driveline wouldn't be happy, and with that granny gear it would be pointless.


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Yes it is really worth it

[PreciseD]

Heat is going to be a huge issue, and that manifold is culprit #1. Remember, I have that manifold on my EFR, it is still a work or art with the black ceramic coating and with cloth wrap. If you don't do alot of heat shielding, you are going to have some seriously brittle electrical wires. Seeing a beautiful weld is not as important as protecting your engine, IMO.

Don't forget the coilpack wires are pretty much right next to where that manifold will be sitting.

I thought that using cloth wrap on a turbo header was a bad idea. Doesn't it help trap moisture causing it to rust or does the ceramic coating act as a barrier from that?

Would coating the inside of the manifold be a bad idea?

[Turbavanttro]

No, cloth wrap is a good idea. You don't need to worry about rust on that manifold, it is stainless steel. Any moisture on the cloth wil be gone minutes after initial startup. I can't see how it actually gets wet except after an engine bay cleaning.

Some coaters say they won't warranty their ceramic coating unless the inside and outside is coated, which creates a full thermal jacket.

I decided to coat the manifold, wrap the turbine housing, coat and wrap the downpipe, and use a thermal sleeving for pretty much every electrical component in the vicinity of heat. I even got a starter motor heat shield. And I still question whether that will be enough. But not going with any vents I have seen to date. I have a few ideas in mind but probably will never try them unless I stumble upon a super cheap used hood I can play with.

[PreciseD]

Mmmmmm Porn!!!!




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[MMMB00ST_A4]

Looks like mine! Puurty...

[Audi body]

Very pretty!!

[PreciseD]

When I went to see it Today I had a hard time thinking strait do the large amount of blood loss.


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[viperdsa]

Interested to see this finished. Keep going back and forth between a single scroll 7163 or a ts 7670 since I imagine the difference in spool wouldn't be that much.

[diagnosticator]

Interested to see this finished. Keep going back and forth between a single scroll 7163 or a ts 7670 since I imagine the difference in spool wouldn't be that much.

At low RPM with high engine load, the exhaust pulse energy when the exhaust valves open, is very significant, and will accelerate the turbine a lot quicker than an equivalent single scroll turbine housing setup. With a twin scroll manifold and turbine housing, the exhaust pulses are kept separated, and do not interfere with each other.

[diagnosticator]

The exhaust manifold tubes are to large, and will reduce low RPM spool up response. It looks to me that is was built for looks and the design can't work as well as it should since it is not based on the physics involved with a twin scroll turbo. It is contrary to the purpose of having a twin scroll setup, IMO. That exhaust manifold is beautifully made, but is the wrong configuration for a proper twin scroll turbo.

[k909068]

Mmmmmm Porn!!!!




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address PMed, ship it to me NOW.

[PreciseD]

The exhaust manifold tubes are to large, and will reduce low RPM spool up response. It looks to me that is was built for looks and the design can't work as well as it should since it is not based on the physics involved with a twin scroll turbo. It is contrary to the purpose of having a twin scroll setup, IMO. That exhaust manifold is beautifully made, but is the wrong configuration for a proper twin scroll turbo.

I am having a hard time believing that a purpose built twin scroll manifold will not work with a twin scroll turbo...

I was under the assumption that the physics of a twin scroll turbo/manifold are to separate the cylinders whose exhaust gas pulses interfere with each other and are not based on "tubing" size. Also if you have ever seen a Full-Race manifold they use Sch 10 Pipe (not tube) which is very thick so what you see on the outside is about 3/8" larger than on the inner port.

If there is something that I have missed I or not understanding correctly please let me know.


Here is a article from Modified.com

Twin-scroll turbo system design addresses many of the shortcomings of single-scroll turbo systems by separating those cylinders whose exhaust gas pulses interfere with each other. Similar in concept to pairing cylinders on race headers for normally aspirated engines, twin-scroll design pairs cylinders to one side of the turbine inlet such that the kinetic energy from the exhaust gases is recovered more efficiently by the turbine. For example, if a four-cylinder engine's firing sequence is 1-3-4-2, cylinder 1 is ending its expansion stroke and opening its exhaust valves while cylinder 2 still has its exhaust valves open (while in its overlap period, where both the intake and exhaust valves are partially open at the same time). In a single-scroll or undivided manifold, the exhaust gas pressure pulse from cylinder 1 is therefore going to interfere with cylinder 2's ability to expel its exhaust gases, rather than delivering it undisturbed to the turbo's turbine the way a twin-scroll system allows.

The result of the superior scavenging effect from a twin-scroll design is better pressure distribution in the exhaust ports and more efficient delivery of exhaust gas energy to the turbocharger's turbine. This in turn allows greater valve overlap, resulting in an improved quality and quantity of the air charge entering each cylinder. In fact, with more valve overlap, the scavenging effect of the exhaust flow can literally draw more air in on the intake side while drawing out the last of the low-pressure exhaust gases, helping pack each cylinder with a denser and purer air charge. And as we all know, a denser and purer air charge means stronger combustion and more power, and more power is good!

But the benefits of twin-scroll design don't end there. With its greater volumetric efficiency and stronger scavenging effect, higher ignition delay can be used, which helps keep peak temperature in the cylinders down. Since cooler cylinder temperatures and lower exhaust gas temperatures allows for a leaner air/fuel ratio, twin-scroll turbo design has been shown to increase turbine efficiency by 7-8 percent and result in fuel efficiency improvements as high as 5 percent.

Combine these benefits with a well-engineered tubular equal-length manifold and the design strengths of a twin-scroll approach can pay even bigger dividends. "Equal length" simply refers to the length of the primary exhaust manifold tubes or runners that the cylinder head exhaust ports breath out into, which should ideally be of equal length before merging at a narrow angle at the collector so that the gases flow smoothly together into the turbine inlet. This helps maintain exhaust gas pulse energy, resulting in better boost response and overall higher turbo efficiency.