Low oil pressure 3.0 v6 - 2.7tt swap?

[kr3w45]

Hey guys,

This is my first post, I have been browsing the forums for a while but am stuck in a small dilemma, so I thought I would seek some advice. A little intro about myself first, I work at an independent automotive shop where we focus mainly on European. I just purchased a B7 a4 because my B6 a4 threw a low oil pressure light. It is the 3.0 V6 with a 6-speed standard. Replaced the pressure sensor and tested pressure with a mechanical gauge. It was right at the threshold to trigger the light. I dropped the oil pan and unfortunately inside the pan and the pick up screen were clean as new. This brings me to the conclusion that the pump is weak or the engine has worn bearings.


The car otherwise is mint and didn’t need a thing. Just put a new t-belt and water pump on within 2k miles. New brakes front and rear with SS brake lines. Interior and ex in great condition.


Have any of you 3.0 guys had a low oil pressure problem? If so what was the cause? I see these all the time with the 1.8’s. And I have done a search and a just a few posts with unsolved problems.


I am trying to decide whether to replace the engine and sell it or do a 2.7tt swap. Would anyone be interested in buying it as is?



Let me know what you think,
Thanks!

[Lornnn]

What kind of oil is in it?

There aren't many 3.0 guys in this forum, but welcome to the fold.

[AudiA4_20T]

you probably just need to clean out the pickup tube and she'll be good as new

[SJorge3442]

I've read that the only other cause when the engine is clean would be the pump, which is roughly $1200, or so I've been told. The 2.7 swap isnt as "plug and play" as many make it seem to be. I would love to do a 2.7 swap, but there are just way too many custom parts that need to be made. I say, try to source a used pump, cheap and test that out.

Before you do that, you can change the oil to something else. A lot of us 3.0 guys are running Rotella T6 with great luck.

[deyrag]

I am going though this exact same thing right now. Low oil pressure warning when up to temp and dropping back to idle (like when stopping at a light or stop sign). Removed the switch and installed a HF test gauge. Pressure at idle when up to temp was hovering right at 20 psi, at 2000 rpm was 55 psi. both on the low end of the specs.
Dropped the pan (real easy compared to you 1.8 guys), absolutely spotless inside. Pickup screen clean except for maybe a little sliver of what looked like bearing material.
Changed the filter (mann) refilled with fresh T6. Was ok for a few days but now back to same symptoms.

[sandspeed]

What custom made parts do you think need to be made for a 2.7t swap?

[SJorge3442]

I am going though this exact same thing right now. Low oil pressure warning when up to temp and dropping back to idle (like when stopping at a light or stop sign). Removed the switch and installed a HF test gauge. Pressure at idle when up to temp was hovering right at 20 psi, at 2000 rpm was 55 psi. both on the low end of the specs.
Dropped the pan (real easy compared to you 1.8 guys), absolutely spotless inside. Pickup screen clean except for maybe a little sliver of what looked like bearing material.
Changed the filter (mann) refilled with fresh T6. Was ok for a few days but now back to same symptoms.

Yeah the oil pan on the 3.0 comes right off. You dont even need to move anything out of the way. I would say your pump is probably on the way out. How many miles?

[deyrag]

http://www.ecstuning.com/Search/06c103273h/ES280190/

This is the 3.0 pump. No pick up tube as the whole thing sits below oil level in the pan.

Can anyone post the removal procedure for the 3.0 pump if it is in the Bentley?

[deyrag]

I would say your pump is probably on the way out. How many miles?

Around 80k on the engine. This is actually the 3rd engine in this car. Original one replaced by dealer under warranty when block cracked for original owner. Second one swapped for used from A6 with reportedly around 60000 on it at the time when the same cracked problem happened. Crack was a circumferential crack around cylinder 3 at about mid point of stroke.

I am in 3 minds at the moment.
1. Put some heavy oil in it and dump it on some used car dealer (don't really have the heart to do that though)
2. Replace pump with a used one if i can find one
3. Put in a different switch with a lower set point
4. Replace engine (if i go this route will consider 2.7 swap)

[SJorge3442]

seems pretty straight forward....especially for a $1200 part. If it were me, I'd probably source a used engine and use it for parts. Lord knows what else you might need from the engine.

[deyrag]

Thanks. Does sound too simple for an Audi :)

[kr3w45]

If I were to get a used engine I would probably just use that as a replacement. Unfortunately replacing the oil pump is a lot more labor intensive than the 1.8 engine. Alldata book time quotes 18 hours I believe. There is the lower and upper oil pan that need to be removed. And at this point replacing the pump would only be a 50/50 chance of a fix so I might as well replace the bearings while I'm in there. I think it would be easier to just throw the used engine in and call it a day..

Thanks for the replies!

[SJorge3442]

If I were to get a used engine I would probably just use that as a replacement. Unfortunately replacing the oil pump is a lot more labor intensive than the 1.8 engine. Alldata book time quotes 18 hours I believe. There is the lower and upper oil pan that need to be removed. And at this point replacing the pump would only be a 50/50 chance of a fix so I might as well replace the bearings while I'm in there. I think it would be easier to just throw the used engine in and call it a day..

Thanks for the replies!

18 hours?!? The instructions that I posted are from a Haynes manual, but it seems that the pump actually comes up very easy. Is there something that I am missing here?

[deyrag]

I might try pulling the pump this weekend. If I do I will post the results.

[SlickFix]

Just curious kr3w45, how often does your low oil pressure light come on? Since it tested borderline, I'm curious to know.

Hopefully I won't be in the same boat as you when I test mine out during the next oil change.

[kr3w45]

18 hours?!? The instructions that I posted are from a Haynes manual, but it seems that the pump actually comes up very easy. Is there something that I am missing here?

Actual removal of the oil pump requires the upper oil pan to be removed. This would include dropping the subframe, I believe on alldata it included removal of the alternator and ect. Nose would have to be removed if I remember correctly.

[kr3w45]

Just curious kr3w45, how often does your low oil pressure light come on? Since it tested borderline, I'm curious to know.

Hopefully I won't be in the same boat as you when I test mine out during the next oil change.

The oil light first came on when I was driving on the highway for about an hour. When I hit stop and go traffic and my RPM's hit 2,000 the light popped on. This was when the oil was very thin. I changed the oil that day, checked pressure, and replaced the sensor. About a week of driving later it came back on in the same situation and became more consistent. I actually put 15w50 in it to see if the light would stay out and even after the thicker viscosity oil warmed up the light came on. Hope this helps you out!

[SlickFix]

The oil light first came on when I was driving on the highway for about an hour. When I hit stop and go traffic and my RPM's hit 2,000 the light popped on. This was when the oil was very thin. I changed the oil that day, checked pressure, and replaced the sensor. About a week of driving later it came back on in the same situation and became more consistent. I actually put 15w50 in it to see if the light would stay out and even after the thicker viscosity oil warmed up the light came on. Hope this helps you out!

It does, and makes me feel better, because my light has only come on very rarely in the three years I've owned it. It's not coming on with regularity like what you're experiencing.

[walky_talky20]

Hmm. I wonder if the 2.7T/2.8 30V pump would work. I know the 2.8 and 3.0 block is similar, and the pump layout looks similar as well. But the 3.0 pump appears to have a balancer shaft built in. Perhaps not entirely necessary.

3.0 pump (1 million dollars):



2.7T/2.8 30v pump (eleven dollars):

[deyrag]

Just to update thread.

I finally fixed my problem by replacing the pressure switch. The original was actually leaking through the switch body and filling the connector with oil. Cleaned it all up and put in new switch, no red lights for a 100 miles, so looking good. Per the HF test kit gauge the pressure at idle was only 21 psi so not a lot of pressure but it seems happy.

[kr3w45]

Just to update thread.

I finally fixed my problem by replacing the pressure switch. The original was actually leaking through the switch body and filling the connector with oil. Cleaned it all up and put in new switch, no red lights for a 100 miles, so looking good. Per the HF test kit gauge the pressure at idle was only 21 psi so not a lot of pressure but it seems happy.

That's great to hear. I wish that was the case for me. I ended up letting the car go yesterday and feel like I almost gave it away at the price I sold it as, as-is.

Thanks for the input everyone! Hope the light stays out deyrag!