Using a AEM uego to give AWM ecu signal

[Mythbuster74]

So I'm converting my car from an atw narrowband ecu, to a awm wideband ECU. I'm trying to find ways to give the ecu a wideband signal without buying a conversion harness.

The aem uego has a wideband output wire, and it seems like a good idea to just connect this to the ecuwideband input. Will this work? Or will the ecu not like that the other wires aren't plugged in?

Has anyone tried this?

Also does anyone have the pinout or a awm CH ecu?

[MetalMan]

Don't think it will work quite like how you're thinking.

Wideband sensors are more sophisticated than narrowband sensors. Their heating is more sensitive than narrowband and I don't think you can just hook up a 5V signal line from your wideband and keep the ECU happy.

[Mad Cow]

That's a really roundabout way of doing it, it might work, but even if it does you'll be getting O2 sensor response too slow codes all the time because of the extra latency. You also don't need a $100+ wideband harness, those are just ridiculous. I converted my old ATW harness for free, I just found a wideband connector in a junkyard and made it work. You need to run 2 extra wires to the ECU and that's it, the rest you just connect to the existing narrowband connector.

Also note you'll need to code out VVT to keep your LTFT's, the resistor that comes in wideband harnesses only gets rid of the open circuit code, you'll still get a timing over-retarded code.

[Mythbuster74]

That's a really roundabout way of doing it, it might work, but even if it does you'll be getting O2 sensor response too slow codes all the time because of the extra latency. You also don't need a $100+ wideband harness, those are just ridiculous. I converted my old ATW harness for free, I just found a wideband connector in a junkyard and made it work. You need to run 2 extra wires to the ECU and that's it, the rest you just connect to the existing narrowband connector.

Also note you'll need to code out VVT to keep your LTFT's, the resistor that comes in wideband harnesses only gets rid of the open circuit code, you'll still get a timing over-retarded code.

I know I have to code out the vvt.

And you really think the wideband output would be slow enough to throw a code? It seems to me it would be easier to just run the one wire but again I don't know how the computer would act.

[Mad Cow]

Yep, I remember someone tried it once and that's what happened. You'll also get codes for heating and drastically lower the life of the sensor doing it this way. Wideband O2's are really sensitive to temperature and aftermarket wideband controllers are notorious for overheating sensors by leaving the heater on way too long. Don't bother with this and do it properly.

[Mythbuster74]

Yep, I remember someone tried it once and that's what happened. You'll also get codes for heating and drastically lower the life of the sensor doing it this way. Wideband O2's are really sensitive to temperature and aftermarket wideband controllers are notorious for overheating sensors by leaving the heater on way too long. Don't bother with this and do it properly.

I don't understand what your saying. You think that the wideband is setup to burnout it's own sensor? I'm not saying use a wideband controller on a stock wideband sensor.

[Mad Cow]

I don't understand what your saying. You think that the wideband is setup to burnout it's own sensor? I'm not saying use a wideband controller on a stock wideband sensor.

That's exactly what I'm saying, it's obviously not set up that way but that's what happens according to what I've read. Wideband sensors are all basically identical apart from the plug, wideband controllers aren't good at regulating the heater and cause the sensor to burn up. Plus you'll still get heater codes from the ECU. You can do it if you want, but I'm telling you to do it the proper way and wire a wideband plug into your ECU. All you need to do is run 2 wires from the new connector, the rest you take from the old narrowband plug.