Take bends out, OR Get a set of new reps? Need wheel help/advice!

[NolanB7]

Hello fellow AZers, I am looking for advice/ guidance from seasoned Audi/ wheel guru's or any one else that has dealt with this issue. I have 2 sets of B7 A4 Sline 18" wheels, one is for summer set the other for winter. At the start of every season, I take my wheels to a European private dealer/mechanic to have my wheels straightened or the bends taken out of them. However it seems just a few weeks after I make the switch to the differ season wheels (after alignment, etc) , they are out of round and have bends again and I am getting so damn tired of my car shimming while under light/normal braking. I feel the reason it is shimming bad is due to the wheels having bends in them, I have replaced my Rotors twice both front and rear as I was told that was the reason for my car shaking. It did not fix the issue. So I am looking to see what most of you would do. Whether to, just stick with the same wheels and keeping taking the bends out, or to go with a new set of wheels, whether Reps or XXR. I am nervous that if I drop the money( not looking to spend more than $600) on a new set of wheels I will experience the same issue as I currently am. I don't know if since the wheels have had so many bends in them already that they are weak because of it and just bend even easier, granted the roads here in Williamsport, PA are horrible, but IF anyone is currently running S Line wheels and can chime in I would be grateful. Looking for good opinions/ options. Have looked at my chassis/ suspension parts and they all seem to be fine, So I am really at a crossroads and looking for help.

[midnight407]

You bend your wheels every season?

[Hugh@EuropaParts]

You bend your wheels every season?

I bent 3 wheels this winter because Jersey pothole... and I drive VERY carefully.

[midnight407]

I don't doubt that this year the roads, nationwide, have been horrendous. But...

At the start of every season, I take my wheels to a European private dealer/mechanic to have my wheels straightened or the bends taken out of them.

Every season?

[NolanB7]

Let me clarify that, At the start of the spring season when changing to my summer wheels I drop them off to have him take the bends out. Then again in early to mid Nov I drop my winter wheels off to have those bends taken out.

[V2Rider]

I have a slight bend in one wheel as well. I don't notice it, rides exceptionally smooth, but the tire shop noticed it when balancing.

[Fdny5772]

How much does wheel straightening typically cost anyway?

[viprez586]

I highly doubt the wheels are that bent, and that it occurs that regularly. Re-bending wheels is structurally altering them and I'm sure it weakens them.
Anyway - A shimmy or vibration is MUCH more likely the cause of a bad tire/shifted belt in the tire.

At work we use the Hunter road-force to deteremine how much a tire will actually shake, measured in lbs. I'd suggest getting your tires balanced at a shop with a GOOD tire balancer.

This is how I usually put my tires on each car depending on the road force measured

FL - Lowest force FR - Lower Number
RL - 2nd highest number RR Highest number


The reason you do this is so that the least amount of vibration/shimmy is felt by the driver. The worst tire is farthest away from the driver in the RR, then the left rear, and so on.

[NolanB7]

I highly doubt the wheels are that bent, and that it occurs that regularly. Re-bending wheels is structurally altering them and I'm sure it weakens them.
Anyway - A shimmy or vibration is MUCH more likely the cause of a bad tire/shifted belt in the tire.

At work we use the Hunter road-force to deteremine how much a tire will actually shake, measured in lbs. I'd suggest getting your tires balanced at a shop with a GOOD tire balancer.

This is how I usually put my tires on each car depending on the road force measured

FL - Lowest force FR - Lower Number
RL - 2nd highest number RR Highest number


The reason you do this is so that the least amount of vibration/shimmy is felt by the driver. The worst tire is farthest away from the driver in the RR, then the left rear, and so on.

The wheels are rather bent, and believe me it occurs to often for me.

I am not on board with your bad tire concept, Brand new winter tires, balanced, aligned, etc. Car shimmies during braking with those wheels currently on the car, there is no uneven/ bad wearing.

I appreciate your feed back however I have no clue what local shops around me have a "Hunter Road-force" wheel balancer.

I also have a brand set of summer tires that are waiting to go on, I don't think I will have much luck finding that balancer so I will just stick with what I currently use. It is the rims causing the issue not the tires.

[Silveravant]

If the wheels are really bent they wouldn't "shimmy" only under braking, they would vibrate all the time when driving. Sounds like a brake rotor problem even though you say you have replaced them. I would check the rotors with a dial indicator, or could be uneven brake pad transfer to the rotors.

[AudiTFSI3o3]

to answer your original question, buy new reps.

[NolanB7]

[QUOTE=Silveravant;9571136]If the wheels are really bent they wouldn't "shimmy" only under braking, they would vibrate all the time when driving. Sounds like a brake rotor problem even though you say you have replaced them. I would check the rotors with a dial indicator, or could be uneven brake pad transfer to the rotors.[/QUOTE

I thought that also, When I replaced my Pads last spring because I was told they are the reason for the shaking, I checked them for uneven wear. They were wearing beautifully, still had half life, but I threw them away incase they were bad. How would I go about checking the rotors with a Dial Indicator...? Usually when pads or rotors are wearing unevenly, you can usually see some indication of this on the face of the rotor and I see nothing out of the ordinary.

[NolanB7]

to answer your original question, buy new reps.

Thank you for an answer to my orig question. HA. I have been looking at getting some OEM BMW Wheels as replacement. Either the 18" Star Spoke with is on the 330XI and some 5 series, or BMW X5 or X3 Not sure. But looking at those possibly.

[naiku]

I appreciate your feed back however I have no clue what local shops around me have a "Hunter Road-force" wheel balancer.

If you search Google Hunter Road Force have a website that you can go to, plug in your zip code and it will tell you what shops nearby have the machine.

How would I go about checking the rotors with a Dial Indicator...?

Clamp the dial indicator somewhere and position it on the rotor, turn the rotor and watch the needle.

[mr shickadance]

warped rotors, the wheels would be shimmying regardless of braking if they were off.

the only thing it could be is brakes/rotors....i think you are looking for reasons to get new wheels.

[buzztt]

Try switching rims with someone for a quick test drive, if there is no vibration etc then you know it's the rims that are the problem.

Oem rims are fairly strong, I'd be surprised if you manage to bend them. Unless you have crazy stretched tires or very thin sidewalls.

[viprez586]

The wheels are rather bent, and believe me it occurs to often for me.

I am not on board with your bad tire concept, Brand new winter tires, balanced, aligned, etc. Car shimmies during braking with those wheels currently on the car, there is no uneven/ bad wearing.

I appreciate your feed back however I have no clue what local shops around me have a "Hunter Road-force" wheel balancer.

I also have a brand set of summer tires that are waiting to go on, I don't think I will have much luck finding that balancer so I will just stick with what I currently use. It is the rims causing the issue not the tires.

You must be driving on the worst roads, and jamming on your brakes everytime you see a pothole (causing weight transfer to the front wheels therefore increasing the load it takes when hitting a pot-hole). OE wheels don't bent that easily...but the fact you've had them "re-straightened" they probably are indeed weakened.

Like others have posted. If it only shimmies when braking it's due to excessive brake pad transfer onto the brake rotor causing a high spot on the rotor face and increasing the run-out of the rotor face. It's often known as "warped rotors" which is FALSE, they not warped - it's excessive brake pad material transferred onto the rotors.
Tires on the other hand - I've seen plenty of JUNK BRAND NEW tires. The run-out of the tire combined with the run-out of the rim will cause a bad vibration at speed or steering wheel shimmy. That's why they are suppose to be force matched (the little red or yellow if there is no red dots on the tires to the valve stem), then checked for road-force via the appropriate tire balancer.


I'm not just spewing out bullshit. I've been professionally doing this for 6 years.

[NolanB7]

buzztt, yes thank you! This I need to do I was going to do it, then forgot. Was Running 215/40/r18 last summer season. Awful roads with dips and potholes.

[NolanB7]

Try switching rims with someone for a quick test drive, if there is no vibration etc then you know it's the rims that are the problem.

Oem rims are fairly strong, I'd be surprised if you manage to bend them. Unless you have crazy stretched tires or very thin sidewalls.

You must be driving on the worst roads, and jamming on your brakes everytime you see a pothole (causing weight transfer to the front wheels therefore increasing the load it takes when hitting a pot-hole). OE wheels don't bent that easily...but the fact you've had them "re-straightened" they probably are indeed weakened.

Unfortunately the roads around my area are no good and I take the long smoother way everywhere to avoid the worst of it when low and most of other time.
Can't say I jam my brakes to much, only when deer appear. Yes the have been re straightened a few times, so in that theory I am thinking they are pretty weak.

Like others have posted. If it only shimmies when braking it's due to excessive brake pad transfer onto the brake rotor causing a high spot on the rotor face and increasing the run-out of the rotor face. It's often known as "warped rotors" which is FALSE, they not warped - it's excessive brake pad material transferred onto the rotors.

Tires on the other hand - I've seen plenty of JUNK BRAND NEW tires. The run-out of the tire combined with the run-out of the rim will cause a bad vibration at speed or steering wheel shimmy. That's why they are suppose to be force matched (the little red or yellow if there is no red dots on the tires to the valve stem), then checked for road-force via the appropriate tire balancer.


I'm not just spewing out bullshit. I've been professionally doing this for 6 years.

I am going to look up the balancers in my area, It is only when light to moderate braking that it shakes most. I am also going to try and check the rotors this weekend and also note if I find the excessive pad transfer on rotors. Have been using EBC Red stuff pads with premium rotors. Right winter wheels, 245/45/r18 hankook winter ipikes.

Also when I have mount tires mounted to rim the "red dots" are aligned with valve stems.

[West.point1]

I thought I had a balance issue or a bent rim turns out needed better hub center rings. Thankfully I have a great tire shop they tried balancing my wheels three times and 2 different types of center rings finally found a set of pound in aluminum ones car runs smooth now