Baseline dyno run, 300whp

[rexaroo]

What's up everyone. I just did a baseline dyno pull today at The Boost Creep in Longmont CO (elevation 5000ft). Figured I'd check out what it does before I mess with anything. It's a 2010 S4, completely stock, blizzak tires on currently, done in dynamic mode, 4th gear, 91 octane.



EDIT

I got a Revo tune from 3zero3 a couple weeks ago. Was finally able to go get a dyno pull (or 3) done at the same local shop again.

[IMG]Revo Stage 1 vs. Stock by hermanopedro, on Flickr[/IMG]

Huge gains in higher rpms vs stock. Something like 70whp and 50wtq. Almost no gains in lower rpms. This is just a Revo Stage 1 flash. Zero hard parts changed. Same tires as initial pull, with in 10 degrees of temp as well (little warmer today).

[IMG]Revo Stage 1 by hermanopedro, on Flickr[/IMG]

[Moto One]

It's been something that was discovered by Euro Mags testing the B8 version of S4s, Audi published the HP as 330hp but seem to have forgotten to say that that was at the WHEELS...
I know that our new S4 has way more power then our B7, and to be honest it pulls like my 01 Corvette Z06. "Hot Rod Audi."

Mark.

[skiracerblah]

wow that's pretty darn high for a Dyno Dynamics. That type of dyno is known as the Heartbreaker dyno since it typically reads a lot lower compared to other dyno's...

[shadycrew31]

Any dyno can be calibrated to read differently, they are relatively pointless and should be used as a tool not a test of power.

[Subsonic]

I've been considering taking my car to them to get a baseline reading as well. Thanks for posting!

[Jake@JHM]

any dyno can be calibrated to read differently, they are relatively pointless and should be used as a tool not a test of power.

x6534698461216354685435138549846351384635241684321 654.98786

[rexaroo]

I was pretty surprised by the results myself. I figured with 91 octane at altitude it would probably be more like 280whp or so. I'll take it though! And that is the reason why I went, I wanted a baseline run before I started messing with anything, or at least as comparative as I can get without doing a run, putting parts on, then doing another run on the same day.

[OmahaB8]

PLEASE keep us posted on all the deltas and variables as you make changes and dyno again.

[BoostEasy]

altitude-corrected numbers? gotta be.

[raudiace4]

300whp stock on 91 octane? What?

[Subsonic]

Any dyno can be calibrated to read differently, they are relatively pointless and should be used as a tool not a test of power.

I rarely see ppl posting this in other threads for more modified cars. Am i blind or is it just something that people post in every "little guy" dyno results thread? Someone claims 400-500 HP and everyone gets excited but nobody pipes up and says, "Yeah but dynos vary blah blah." OP did in fact state he was doing it for baseline purposes
Afaik that shop has a good reputation. I'm a bit ignorant when it comes to dynos so it's possible I'm missing something.

EDIT: I understand calibrations and whatnot. I used to compete in SPL competitions on various mics, some were easier to hit high numbers than others, and so on. I imagine it's similar to that in that you know what you can hit consistently on a certain mic and that's your reference for comparison. Serious competitors knew what mics were "stiff" and which were "soft" and could somewhat gauge what theirs or someone else's SPL was based on that info. Competition mics are supposed to be calibrated the same since SPL is a matter of pressure which is not open to interpretation. HP is also not open to interpretation, it has an exact meaning as a unit of measure. Calibration plays an important role but if calibrated correctly they should be accurate so, just like SPL, it comes down to ensuring the measuring device has been properly calibrated and the calibrating equipment has been checked for accuracy.

Think I came across way ruder earlier than I meant. Nothing negative intended.

[MrFunk]

Sounds about right. 300 AWH + 20% DT loss puts you about 360 Crank HP.
Very well known it's underrated at 333HP... Lots of stock S4's putting close to 300...

[Subsonic]

Even at 5000'+? I was expecting less even though I was aware of the underrating and what other stock S4's were putting on the ground.

[MrFunk]

Forced induction performs well at elevation. Nice numbers tho never the less..

[stactum]

Sounds about right. 300 AWH + 20% DT loss puts you about 360 Crank HP.
Very well known it's underrated at 333HP... Lots of stock S4's putting close to 300...

I've seen this math many times and still don't get it :) It's math 5th grade, people :)


Knowing that drive train loss is 20% (out of 100%); remaining 80% is what you get as dyno reading, which is 300.5 hp. To get back to 100% all you need is 300.5/80*100 = 375.6 hp at crank.

[rs4dreams]

Weird thing is the peak is still at around 5800 rpm, as at sea level. I'd expect the peak HP to be the same, but reached at a higher RPM on the stock tune. I guess this might suggest that the bypass valve opens at 5800 RPM no matter what, even if boost didn't reach 11.6 psi (stock maximum). Or maybe the difference for 5000 ft vs 0 ft is only 1-200 RPM and it's not noticeable.

[rexaroo]

altitude-corrected numbers? gotta be.

Ugh. These were the numbers I received on that particular dyno on that particular day. The dyno is a tool. I now have a baseline for when I do mods. That allows me to see the percentage change with mods. Which will, almost guaranteed, be the same percentage as everyone else. So, it it altitude corrected? I honestly don't know.

Last time I was tuned by him he used a half SAE correction for forced induction cars. He mentioned nothing over the course of the baseline pulls, nor do I honestly care. As long as it's the same correction factor (or non correction factor) as the baseline it matters not to me.

Bottom line, this is a starting point for measuring future gains. That's it. Take it for what you will.

If its any consultation, stock STIs put down 220-230whp on this dyno. Also, I'm not sure how fancy the ecu is on the S4, but it may still be boosting to what you would see at sea level, thereby mitigating some of the altitude losses.

[MrFunk]

I've seen this math many times and still don't get it :) It's math 5th grade, people :)


Knowing that drive train loss is 20% (out of 100%); remaining 80% is what you get as dyno reading, which is 300.5 hp. To get back to 100% all you need is 300.5/80*100 = 375.6 hp at crank.

Don't piss me off

It's approx 20% loss... I've seen arguments between 15-25% for AWD cars depending on how efficient they are and AWD systems.
I was just approximating 360...
I'm not sure what the exact DTL is on the S4... with the 40/60 power split - how does that relate?

Regardless... 300 at the wheels is 300 at the wheels and I've seen this many times on a stock S4.

[shadycrew31]

Ugh. These were the numbers I received on that particular dyno on that particular day. The dyno is a tool. I now have a baseline for when I do mods. That allows me to see the percentage change with mods. Which will, almost guaranteed, be the same percentage as everyone else. So, it it altitude corrected? I honestly don't know.

Last time I was tuned by him he used a half SAE correction for forced induction cars. He mentioned nothing over the course of the baseline pulls, nor do I honestly care. As long as it's the same correction factor (or non correction factor) as the baseline it matters not to me.

Bottom line, this is a starting point for measuring future gains. That's it. Take it for what you will.

If its any consultation, stock STIs put down 220-230whp on this dyno. Also, I'm not sure how fancy the ecu is on the S4, but it may still be boosting to what you would see at sea level, thereby mitigating some of the altitude losses.

Glad you are using it as a tool not a penis measuring device. Lots of people on here use it as a penis measuring tool... Well actually the only one that comes to mind is west, I am sure there are others though.

What mods are you considering doing?

[IanCH]

I mean, if the Subi's are putting down 220-230 on the same settings then its pretty clear that the Audi is actually under rated. 230 is 25% under the crank rating on the nose

[rexaroo]

Glad you are using it as a tool not a penis measuring device. Lots of people on here use it as a penis measuring tool... Well actually the only one that comes to mind is west, I am sure there are others though.

What mods are you considering doing?

I'll be doing the APR stage 2 + when I decide to mod. I'm still under a CPO warranty and I don't particularly want to ruin that yet. But, we shall see if I can hold out before I add more power. I have to admit though, it still feels really good to me on the street, I don't necessarily feel like I need more power yet.

[shadycrew31]

I'll be doing the APR stage 2 + when I decide to mod. I'm still under a CPO warranty and I don't particularly want to ruin that yet. But, we shall see if I can hold out before I add more power. I have to admit though, it still feels really good to me on the street, I don't necessarily feel like I need more power yet.

Thats exactly how I felt... I still nearly shit myself on the strip, I have no real need for increased power shes plenty quick for me.

[IanCH]

Every time you feel the need to spend money on power, spend a day driving a commuter 4 cylinder...

I spent a week in a Toyota Corolla (gf's car) while my car was fixed and when I got it back I couldn't figure out why I was so interested in upping the power. Unfortunately the craving for more is creeping back up now.

[RudyH]

Forced induction performs well at elevation. Nice numbers tho never the less..

+1 see Pikes Peak...go home if no forced induction because you are wasting gas

APR has on their site their AWHP at 308hp so OP, you are a bit down on power...most reviews back in 2010 of the S4, same deal if they went to a dyno it was around 300-310 AWHP.

It doesn't feel that powerful because compared to my old turbo engine, the supercharger power delivery is so damn smooth, love it, jet plane power delivery

[trip'n]

Go stage 2 plus now with E-code intake (best bang for your buck IMO) and never look back. It took me two weeks of owning my 2010 to pull the trigger and the power makes it a totally different car. Stock the car felt like a pig to me but that was going from a fully done B5 with meth.

After that mod go get E-Code sway bars and links as soon as you can. I waited WAY to long(4 months) on this mod and again Night and Day difference-

Don't beat the piss out of it and you will be fine…enjoy man congrats-

[MrFunk]

Every time you feel the need to spend money on power, spend a day driving a commuter 4 cylinder...

I spent a week in a Toyota Corolla (gf's car) while my car was fixed and when I got it back I couldn't figure out why I was so interested in upping the power. Unfortunately the craving for more is creeping back up now.

It's only a matter of time... I've been driving an 18 year old Jeep around all winter since Sept. I'm sure when I get back in the S4 I'll be blown away again - probably more than when I bought it new. But it's only a matter of time until you get desensitized and want to tweak things.

[shadycrew31]

Every time you feel the need to spend money on power, spend a day driving a commuter 4 cylinder...

I spent a week in a Toyota Corolla (gf's car) while my car was fixed and when I got it back I couldn't figure out why I was so interested in upping the power. Unfortunately the craving for more is creeping back up now.

I spent a month driving my parents Toyota Matrix when I was visiting them... Just sitting in my S4 was a world of difference.

[saxon]

Every time you feel the need to spend money on power, spend a day driving a commuter 4 cylinder...

I spent a week in a Toyota Corolla (gf's car) while my car was fixed and when I got it back I couldn't figure out why I was so interested in upping the power. Unfortunately the craving for more is creeping back up now.

i drive a prius on my daily commute and completely understand that. i still am going to stage 2 as i want a certain time at the strip and its always fun for the occasional highway pull. this is my slowest "fun" car in awhile

[rexaroo]

Go stage 2 plus now with E-code intake (best bang for your buck IMO) and never look back. It took me two weeks of owning my 2010 to pull the trigger and the power makes it a totally different car. Stock the car felt like a pig to me but that was going from a fully done B5 with meth.

After that mod go get E-Code sway bars and links as soon as you can. I waited WAY to long(4 months) on this mod and again Night and Day difference-

Don't beat the piss out of it and you will be fine…enjoy man congrats-

I appreciate the heads up on the parts. I haven't really researched much other than APR and I just can't justify the price of their intake. I actually came from an Evo X MR touring (Cobb Stage 2) and a highly modded 02 WRX (400-470whp depending on dyno) so I'm trying to avoid going crazy with the mods. I really enjoy having the feel of a small block V8 with the best mpg I've ever had from any of my fun cars (Evo was 14, WRX was 12 average).

Of course, the main thing I enjoy is the peace and quiet. It's a full 10 decibels quieter than my Evo and doesn't beat me up with the suspension everyday.

[rexaroo]

Bump for Revo tune.

[anerbe]

Just for comparison's sake:

My old E55K baselined on a dyno dynamics at 351 WHP. If your flash alone S4 can keep up with a stock 03-06 E55 , then you are making very good power. If not, your dyno may be on the high side of a dyno dynamics result.

Did stage 1 eurocharged, which brought it to 425 WHP, or roughly an additional 100HP crank.

[saxon]

thats pretty good gains for stage 1

[anerbe]

Stage 1 on the E55K depended on the tuner. Eurocharged was more like 1.5, as it was Tune, Pulleys, Upgraded HE and Higher flow IC Pump. Stage 2 added headers and was good for over 600HP.

[AnotherJake]

I just upgraded a few months ago to APR Stage 2 / AWE Cold Front at 3Zero3.

Here are some numbers before install with only Intake and Exhaust - 91 octane:
Run 1 - 301.7 HP @6050 287.0 TQ @4400
Run 2 - 299.1 HP @5850 289.5 TQ @4750
Run 3 - 303.9 HP @6150 285.0 TQ @4800

After APR Stage 2/Tune/AWE Cold Front - 91 octane:
Run 1 - 342.5 HP @6150 339.2 TQ @3950
Run 2 - 347.9 HP @6400 330.9 TQ @4350
Run 3 - 356.3 HP @6350 336.1 TQ @4250

[rexaroo]

I just upgraded a few months ago to APR Stage 2 / AWE Cold Front at 3Zero3.

Here are some numbers before install with only Intake and Exhaust - 91 octane:
Run 1 - 301.7 HP @6050 287.0 TQ @4400
Run 2 - 299.1 HP @5850 289.5 TQ @4750
Run 3 - 303.9 HP @6150 285.0 TQ @4800

After APR Stage 2/Tune/AWE Cold Front - 91 octane:
Run 1 - 342.5 HP @6150 339.2 TQ @3950
Run 2 - 347.9 HP @6400 330.9 TQ @4350
Run 3 - 356.3 HP @6350 336.1 TQ @4250

Nice gains as well. Did you run that on a dyno (if so what one?) or is that calculated based on logs? I Think the cold front is a must for track work up here, not so sure if it's worth the price for a dd.

[PitchS4]

Any dyno can be calibrated to read differently, they are relatively pointless and should be used as a tool not a test of power.

He is talking about using it for a baseline so your comment is irrelevant assuming he is going to use the same dyno after he does what it is he is going to do.

[AnotherJake]

Nice gains as well. Did you run that on a dyno (if so what one?) or is that calculated based on logs? I Think the cold front is a must for track work up here, not so sure if it's worth the price for a dd.

Thanks...I just posted them for the OP because it was done at the same place. The Cold Front is a must during the summer months at 100+ here in New Mexico. Also thought it'd be good for the extra heat the smaller pulley would create.

[rexaroo]

Thanks...I just posted them for the OP because it was done at the same place. The Cold Front is a must during the summer months at 100+ here in New Mexico. Also thought it'd be good for the extra heat the smaller pulley would create.

I'm still curious what Dyno you used and where it was at. 3Zero3 doesn't have a dyno. Did you go to a shop in New Mexico?

[AnotherJake]

I'm still curious what Dyno you used and where it was at. 3Zero3 doesn't have a dyno. Did you go to a shop in New Mexico?

They take it to a local place....I'm guessing the same place as you. I'll check my dyno sheets when I get home and see if it has their name.

[rexaroo]

They take it to a local place....I'm guessing the same place as you. I'll check my dyno sheets when I get home and see if it has their name.

Highly doubt you took it to the same place. I took it to the one up north by my house. That's where I did the baseline as well. Wanted to be consistent.

I like that you have before and after dynos though. More people need to do that in my opinion. Besides a drag strip the best way to see changes.