Has anyone changed their motor mounts on their B8 S4?

[z_curtis_s4]

Hey guys,

Just curious if anyone has changed their motor mounts on their B8? I used to own a 04 vw R32 and had all 3 motor mounts changed to aftermarket stage 2 BFI mounts and it really seemed to eliminate the engine "rock" and just made the engine feel more solid as well as responsive. Those 3 mounts did add a bit more engine vibration in the cabin but it was manageable for DD. Anyway, so I own B8 S4 s-tronic and am wondering if there is a benefit to buying stiffer engine mounts? As it stands right now I really don't notice a lot of engine "rock" with my automatic but just wondering if anyone has changed their engine mounts to make their engine perform for the better? Also: does anyone know how many motor mounts the B8 has?

[IanCH]

Given the already present engine shake when idling in Park I wouldn't touch the engine mounts.

[z_curtis_s4]

Given the already present engine shake when idling in Park I wouldn't touch the engine mounts.

My B8 in park or at idle has no engine shake what so ever its very very smooth. I have 44k on my car. Do you mean vibration? Sorry to hear about your engine shake.

[IanCH]

Everybody's perception is different, every b8 s4 I've sat in has the same idle vibration or shake or whatever you wanna call it.

[dubsquared]

Given the already present engine shake when idling in Park I wouldn't touch the engine mounts.

The easy fix for that is to not buy an automatic.

[z_curtis_s4]

I'm surprised no one has upgraded their motor mounts yet. I guess its not as big of a deal as it was in the past? Def plan to do the Alu K mod in the near future for extra stability.

[paul]

The S4 motor mount design doesn't make it easy to replace.

[westwest888]

I heard Audi put a ton of work into our motor mounts and that no aftermarket off the shelf replacement could exceed them. Something about fluid filled rubber mounts with special dampening properties. I wouldn't mess with it.

Sent from Samsung Galaxy S4

[apexit1]

I heard Audi put a ton of work into our motor mounts and that no aftermarket off the shelf replacement could exceed them. Something about fluid filled rubber mounts with special dampening properties. I wouldn't mess with it.

Sent from Samsung Galaxy S4

About right but they aren't the nly ones who do. My dads old 03 MB SL500 had the same style mounts.

Our mounts are the same and they come with a sensor. I think they change stiffness depending on the driving style. I had mine replaced last year somewhere around 50-60k and looked around to a few companies and noone had anything ready to test with a end user. A few did say it was either on their radar or being worked on. I ended up going OEM as there was no other option I was aware of.

As a 6mt owner I can vouch for the slight vibration at idle. Put a bottle of water in the car, turn on the car and watch the vibrations.

[drob23]

The easy fix for that is to not buy an automatic.

What's the difference...it's an automated manual so it's in neutral while in park???

V6 is not a well balanced engine to begin with, they likely spent a lot of time on the bushing design to isolate NVH. Only powertrain bushing upgrade you can do is swap the rear diff mount with a larger/stiffer one (apikol).

[westwest888]

A V6 is a naturally unbalanced engine, as compared to an inline six. The inline six has its own problems like the cylinders at the edges overheating from lack of cooling, and how long that engine is mounted longitudinally as BMW does. Anyway, I expect vibration in a V6. If it drives you nuts get an electric car.

These mounts don't need to be replaced unless they are leaking. It is a common dealer rip off to replace these prematurely.

[paul]

The fluid filled design goes back to at least the B5s. It's not new. However the general design of the current S4 motor mounts makes it hard to engineer/build in an aftermarket design.

[IanCH]

Hope the motor mounts are a long life part... they cost 400 a set

[z_curtis_s4]

Looks like I am just going to keep my stock ones and not touch it. I had no idea they were liquid filled

[apexit1]

yea if you see liquid its a sign that you should be replacing them.

[schelle_pelle]

Hi,

sorry to pull up this old thread, but I would like to know more about the process of changing the mounts. Especially the left side (driver side) is of interest. Does anyone know, if I have to pull the a/c compressor in order to get to the mount? The Audi instructions say, that it is necessary to get the coolant pump and the oil cooler out and them the a/c compressor.

Feedback would be highly appreciated as I am currently in the process.

[misiak]

https://store.034motorsport.com/blog...s4-a5s5-q5sq5/

[schelle_pelle]

https://store.034motorsport.com/blog...s4-a5s5-q5sq5/

Hi,

thanks for the link, but I know this one. Unfortunately it doesn’t answer my question. The 034 instructions just cover the right (easy) side. And for the left side the 034 instructions show just the Audi manual. The Audi manual says to pull the a/c compressor. But... Is this really necessary?

[Quattro_Gang]

Hi,

thanks for the link, but I know this one. Unfortunately it doesn’t answer my question. The 034 instructions just cover the right (easy) side. And for the left side the 034 instructions show just the Audi manual. The Audi manual says to pull the a/c compressor. But... Is this really necessary?

If you lift the engine up with a hoist or engine tool. You don't have to do that. Its fairly easy if you are able to lift the engine just a bit and support it on the top while you work under it.

[rockstar143]

Can't you lift it with a jack and 2x4?
Is there a reason it has to be supported from above instead?
Assuming no lift, obviously

[B7TitaniumA4]

I did mine recently with a harbor freight engine support bar, lifted the engine from the rear hoops on the SC, unbolted the trans mount completely and stabilized on a floor jack.

Passenger side was easy, had to remove the oil cooler from the driver side. Didn’t touch the a/c or water pump.

Took me about 4 hours start to finish but I also have a quickjack...

IMG_5796.jpg


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[awwturbo]

I did mine recently with a harbor freight engine support bar, lifted the engine from the rear hoops on the SC, unbolted the trans mount completely and stabilized on a floor jack.

Passenger side was easy, had to remove the oil cooler from the driver side. Didn’t touch the a/c or water pump.

Took me about 4 hours start to finish but I also have a quickjack...

IMG_5796.jpg


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Was it tough getting to the driver side mount without removing the A/C compressor?

[B7TitaniumA4]

Was it tough getting to the driver side mount without removing the A/C compressor?

I mean you have to work to get the “cover” out and then the mount is pretty easy, lifting the engine, disconnecting the trans mount and removing the oil cooler gave me enough room with my monster hands to get in there. Was still a pain, but totally doable. I do not remember the A/C compressor being an issue at all.


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[awwturbo]

I mean you have to work to get the “cover” out and then the mount is pretty easy, lifting the engine, disconnecting the trans mount and removing the oil cooler gave me enough room with my monster hands to get in there. Was still a pain, but totally doable. I do not remember the A/C compressor being an issue at all.


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Thanks! That's good to know. I'll be tackling the mounts in the next week or so and reading the factory service procedure, it says that the oil cooler, A/C compressor and maybe disconnecting the steering column from the rack for the driver side.

[B7TitaniumA4]

Thanks! That's good to know. I'll be tackling the mounts in the next week or so and reading the factory service procedure, it says that the oil cooler, A/C compressor and maybe disconnecting the steering column from the rack for the driver side.

I’m B8.5 manual , so not sure if there is a difference to B8’s just wanted to clarify that...


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[awwturbo]

I’m B8.5 manual , so not sure if there is a difference to B8’s just wanted to clarify that...


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Understood. I think the procedure I read was for a B8.5 as well. I'll have to double check to see if there is any difference between the driver side procedure for a B8.5 to a B8.

[djn876]

Check out 034s instructions as well, you can avoid removing a lot of stuff by just lowering the subframe an inch or so as well.

[RPMtech147]

I'm in the process right now. The mounts are completely broken and there's so much engine movement it's cracked the air intake tube. Passenger side was simple enough. The rear bolt on the oil cooler is still kicking my ass......

Good to know I don't have to take the AC compressor off though. I literally just bolted the core support back up minus the bumper to replace the thermostat. I could have sworn I've changed these on a B8 S4 but I guess I haven't. The Q's are much easier with the same engine.

ETA, just got the driver's side out. It was.....fiddly.