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Thread: CV Axle diy?

  1. #1
    Established Member Two Rings bxultra's Avatar
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    CV Axle diy?

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    is there a DIY on replacing a cv axle with tools list included. i just ordered from raxles and it should be here by the weekend.

  2. #2
    Established Member Two Rings
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    Yea there are tons of DIY. The only tool that is tricky is the 12 point 10mm which you may have to check on having. On the passenger side there is a heat shield that also needs to be removed to make your life easier.

    There is a way to remove the axle without changing your suspension geometry. It involves turning the wheel and playing with lifting the suspension to ride height (while car is lifted) to wiggle the wheel end of the axle out.

    I redid my CV boot and to be honest, with the mess and trouble of cleaning and repacking the joint, the Raxles might have been a better idea.

  3. #3
    Established Member Two Rings bxultra's Avatar
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    it took my a couple days of looking and getting opinions and many live and die by raxles. the extra cost is apparently worth it. but I'm only doing the driver side so no heat shield issues. i just want to get a complete list of tools so I'm not running back and forth to the tool box

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    Veteran Member Four Rings
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    I'm not sure if it matters, but what year is your A4? And Quattro/FWD? 2.8/1.8T?

    1.5 weeks ago I replaced the driver-front CV axle in my 2001.5 1.8TQM with an Autozone remanufactured unit (yay for $65 and lifetime warranty).

    I didn't touch any suspension or tie rod. Simply turned the steering wheel most of the way to the right, undid the transmission bolts, lifted the transmission side of the axle up and swung it around the transmission output, and then dropped it down so I would have room to slide the splined end out of the hub. Installation was reverse of removal.
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    Veteran Member Four Rings BaseDrifter's Avatar
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    ^Pretty much that. Note that automatics use an M10x20 bolt at the transmission side while manuals use an M8x48, both triple square.
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    Established Member Two Rings bxultra's Avatar
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    Manual 1.8 Quattro. Same as yours. Its a relatively easy, correct? just a axle nut and the bolts holding it to the transmission right? what size are the bolts and nut?

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    Established Member Two Rings bxultra's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by lm0812 View Post
    ^Pretty much that. Note that automatics use an M10x20 bolt at the transmission side while manuals use an M8x48, both triple square.
    So ill need a triple square M8x48 bit and then what size is the axle nut?

  8. #8
    Veteran Member Four Rings BaseDrifter's Avatar
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    There are no nuts to remove, only bolts.

    If you have an AEB or ATW, the axle bolt should be an M14 socket head. If you have an AWM, M16. Some cars may have come with a 27mm bolt holding the axle in, but I'm not sure on what years or cars. Pop the center cap off your wheel to confirm before you buy the tool.

    Transmission side bolts are M8 triple square for manuals.
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    01 S4 2.7T: Stock

  9. #9
    Established Member Two Rings bxultra's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by lm0812 View Post
    There are no nuts to remove, only bolts.

    If you have an AEB or ATW, the axle bolt should be an M14 socket head. If you have an AWM, M16. Some cars may have come with a 27mm bolt holding the axle in, but I'm not sure on what years or cars. Pop the center cap off your wheel to confirm before you buy the tool.

    Transmission side bolts are M8 triple square.
    Awesome. Thats just the info i was looking for. Thanks a lot guys!

  10. #10
    Veteran Member Four Rings
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    Quote Originally Posted by lm0812 View Post
    ^Pretty much that. Note that automatics use an M10x20 bolt at the transmission side while manuals use an M8x48, both triple square.
    FWD manual cars use a M10 at the transmission side too, regardless of engine. Not that it matters here... but it might matter to somebody else.
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  11. #11
    Veteran Member Four Rings bhusted's Avatar
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    As others have mentioned, the bolts on the transmission side are M8 triple square, though one side of mine were actually allen head. I didn't like the difference and replaced the bolts so that they are all triple square. I also like to add a little locktite to each to ensure it does not back out from the transmission cup. The bolt that goes through the wheel hub is torque to yield (one time use) and must be replaced. Rear is 14mm allen and 17mm front. Pull out the center cap in the wheel and break it loose with the car on the ground. I can't remember the torque spec, but it's pretty high +90degrees for the stretch.
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    Veteran Member Four Rings BaseDrifter's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by bhusted View Post
    As others have mentioned, the bolts on the transmission side are M8 triple square, though one side of mine were actually allen head. I didn't like the difference and replaced the bolts so that they are all triple square. I also like to add a little locktite to each to ensure it does not back out from the transmission cup. The bolt that goes through the wheel hub is torque to yield (one time use) and must be replaced. Rear is 14mm allen and 17mm front. Pull out the center cap in the wheel and break it loose with the car on the ground. I can't remember the torque spec, but it's pretty high +90degrees for the stretch.
    There are 17mm front axle bolts?

    Bentley lists the torque specs as:

    M14: 85 ft lb + 180
    M16: 140 ft lb +180
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    01 S4 2.7T: Stock

  13. #13
    Established Member Two Rings bxultra's Avatar
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    so when I'm tightening the axle bolt, tighten to 140ft-lb, then 180 degrees more?

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    Veteran Member Four Rings Believer's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by lm0812 View Post
    There are 17mm front axle bolts?

    Bentley lists the torque specs as:

    M14: 85 ft lb + 180
    M16: 140 ft lb +180
    It seems like he's referring to the size of allen tool needed for the bolt whereas you're referring to the technical spec on the bolt.

  15. #15
    Established Member Two Rings bxultra's Avatar
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    i needed the size for the bolt yes, but when putting the new one on, i think they need to be tightened to spec

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    Veteran Member Four Rings ianwpb's Avatar
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    I remember reading somewhere that Raxles come with the sockets for the big axle bolt and the 6 flange bolts.

    The torque spec just depends on which axle bolt you have. What year is your A4?
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  17. #17
    Established Member Two Rings bxultra's Avatar
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    well i know they come with a new axle bolt and new flange bolts. but the year is 2001. so I'm guessing its the M16 for the axle bolt and M8 for the flange bolts

  18. #18
    Veteran Member Four Rings ianwpb's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by bxultra View Post
    well i know they come with a new axle bolt and new flange bolts. but the year is 2001. so I'm guessing its the M16 for the axle bolt and M8 for the flange bolts
    Most likely. You can always email Raxles, they'll tell you exactly what you'll need. This is where I read that it comes with the tools

    http://a4mods.com/index.php?page=web...ages/axle.html
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  19. #19
    Active Member One Ring ColoradoBob's Avatar
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    When I recently bought axles from Raxles they came to the required sockets. The sockets get sent back with the core.

    Wouldn't hurt to call them to verify.

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    Established Member Two Rings bxultra's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by ianwpb View Post
    Most likely. You can always email Raxles, they'll tell you exactly what you'll need. This is where I read that it comes with the tools

    http://a4mods.com/index.php?page=web...ages/axle.html
    do you agree with the removal of the wheel then lifting and taking off the axle bolt with someone on the brake? This is the first I've seen/read of anyone doing it that way.

    Im going to call raxles tomorrow and ask what all comes, if the sockets are included and get a full drop on whats all coming and what all gets sent back...

    For anyone whose done this job before, are power tools needed or can good ole elbow grease get it done? and what size extension would be best for getting to the transmission bolts?

  21. #21
    Veteran Member Four Rings ianwpb's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by bxultra View Post
    do you agree with the removal of the wheel then lifting and taking off the axle bolt with someone on the brake? This is the first I've seen/read of anyone doing it that way.

    Im going to call raxles tomorrow and ask what all comes, if the sockets are included and get a full drop on whats all coming and what all gets sent back...

    For anyone whose done this job before, are power tools needed or can good ole elbow grease get it done? and what size extension would be best for getting to the transmission bolts?
    No, I'd recommend loosening the axle bolt while it's still on the ground. Much safer that way.

    You don't need power tools. I've removed the axles 10+ times between both of my B5's.

    I used to use about 2' of 3/8ths extensions with a breaker bar to remove the axle to flange bolts. The most recent time I just used the triple square socket along with a ratcheting 13mm wrench. I feel like this is the best way, since it lessens the chance of stripping the bolts. In order to stop the axle from turning I just shove a flat head in the vented part of the brake rotor right next to the caliper, the caliper will stop the flat head and in turn will stop the axle from moving. You should be able to loosen 3 of the axle bolts at a time.

    I don't know how your pinchbolt looks, if it's rusted or corroded, but I've always had better experiences when I remove it and pop out the upper control arms. it gives the axle more room to come out. If that's too much work, then turning the steering wheel should be sufficient.
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  22. #22
    Veteran Member Four Rings bhusted's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Believer View Post
    It seems like he's referring to the size of allen tool needed for the bolt whereas you're referring to the technical spec on the bolt.
    Yup. The front bolts may be 16mm diameter, but a 17mm allen socket is needed.
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  23. #23
    Senior Member Three Rings Breppinq's Avatar
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    this is what i do, loosen axle bolt and wheel bolts with car on ground, jack it up, take the wheel off, then remove axle bolts to tranny once theyre out if your doing the pass side steer all the way to the left or vice versa then jack up the spindle by the ball joint as high as you can and the axle will slide right under the tranny, slide the new one into the hub and slow reverse of removal and bang 123 easy no removing that damn pinch bolt or anything else

  24. #24
    Established Member Two Rings bxultra's Avatar
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    i don't think ill be touching any control arms. turning the wheel is much less hassle then messing with the control arms lol

  25. #25
    Veteran Member Four Rings ianwpb's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Breppinq View Post
    this is what i do, loosen axle bolt and wheel bolts with car on ground, jack it up, take the wheel off, then remove axle bolts to tranny once theyre out if your doing the pass side steer all the way to the left or vice versa then jack up the spindle by the ball joint as high as you can and the axle will slide right under the tranny, slide the new one into the hub and slow reverse of removal and bang 123 easy no removing that damn pinch bolt or anything else
    I forgot about jacking up the hub to remove the axle. I did that once and it was pretty easy.
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  26. #26
    Established Member Two Rings bxultra's Avatar
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    So the axle came in today. Unfortunately, raxles did not include the tools needed for removal of the axle. I went to one of the lowes in my town and they did not have the triple square. Sears has them online so ill be going in tomorrow to find check if its in-store. If not there i will just order them from germanautoparts.com, as they have a good selection of different sizes and whatnot seeing i will probably need all of them anyways.

  27. #27
    Senior Member Three Rings Breppinq's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by bxultra View Post
    So the axle came in today. Unfortunately, raxles did not include the tools needed for removal of the axle. I went to one of the lowes in my town and they did not have the triple square. Sears has them online so ill be going in tomorrow to find check if its in-store. If not there i will just order them from germanautoparts.com, as they have a good selection of different sizes and whatnot seeing i will probably need all of them anyways.
    they have them at autozone dude

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