Bye Useless FrankenTurbo...HELLO GTX2867r

[Jake@JHM]

Colder temps work better, but im like 90% sure the nhra uses like 68-70* as their standard for testing, kid of like a baseline, you would want 0 da, 70* weather

The colder the better. The colder the air, the more dense it is, the more you can pack into your combustion chamber, the bigger the bang. They likely use 70ish as a medium because not everyone gets perfect weather.

[mec]

The colder the better. The colder the air, the more dense it is, the more you can pack into your combustion chamber, the bigger the bang. They likely use 70ish as a medium because not everyone gets perfect weather.

Exactly.

[Jake@JHM]

Exactly.

So that means you want the air to be as cold as possible. Not 70s because a 50* will yield much bet results etc.. ;)

The manifold I had on my 73 Camaro has an area where I could pack dry ice into it, which is a very effective way of dropping IATs!

[mec]

So that means you want the air to be as cold as possible. Not 70s because a 50* will yield much bet results etc.. ;)

The manifold I had on my 73 Camaro has an area where I could pack dry ice into it, which is a very effective way of dropping IATs!

I was referring to the standard, probably because 70* is a temperature achievable across the board whereas 30 can't be had everywhere. I think around 30-40 is where I see my car run best. It's those chilly iats

[Jake@JHM]

I was referring to the standard, probably because 70* is a temperature achievable across the board whereas 30 can't be had everywhere. I think around 30-40 is where I see my car run best. It's those chilly iats

Yup!

[mec]

Any logs to share?

[p0isin]

Thanks for sending over those data logs, I sent you a couple of my recent logs as well. Ours seem similar but there are some differences that I want to look into more.

[aluthman]

I just looked at your latest logs. Overall, it looks fairly solid. There aren't any significant random dips in your MAF readings anymore. There a few things I noticed though:

1. You are running unnecessarily rich. You are at .78 lambda at redline. You can run .80-.83 with no issues. I have my file currently set to .82 lambda at max load. They are probably just over conservative.
2. You should hit your WOT target lambda at peak load. Since load in the logs maxes out at ~191%, I just look at my injector times and see where they peak. Your's is a touch late on going rich to hit WOT target.
3. Your actual/requested boost graph has a huge error. This could be caused by starting the pull at 1200 rpm, but it could also be an issue with how the boost duty/max ve map is set up.
4. You are pulling some timing, but not an excessive amount. Have you considered meth? You can run a LOT more timing.

Maybe mention these to Rombotis and see what they say/recommend.

[mec]

I just looked at your latest logs. Overall, it looks fairly solid. There aren't any significant random dips in your MAF readings anymore. There a few things I noticed though:

1. You are running unnecessarily rich. You are at .78 lambda at redline. You can run .80-.83 with no issues. I have my file currently set to .82 lambda at max load. They are probably just over conservative.
2. You should hit your WOT target lambda at peak load. Since load in the logs maxes out at ~191%, I just look at my injector times and see where they peak. Your's is a touch late on going rich to hit WOT target.
3. Your actual/requested boost graph has a huge error. This could be caused by starting the pull at 1200 rpm, but it could also be an issue with how the boost duty/max ve map is set up.
4. You are pulling some timing, but not an excessive amount. Have you considered meth? You can run a LOT more timing.

Maybe mention these to Rombotis and see what they say/recommend.

the boost curve is pretty wonky too, needs straightening.
Also also needs way more timing in general. Its running nothing right meow.
Also it should not be pulling any timing at 1500....sounds hardware related probably. coils? plugs?

[aluthman]

the boost curve is pretty wonky too, needs straightening.
Also also needs way more timing in general. Its running nothing right meow.
Also it should not be pulling any timing at 1500....sounds hardware related probably. coils? plugs?

He shouldn't have more timing unless he gets meth. He's already pulling 4.5 degrees in one of the logs, adding more will do no good. Full throttle at 1500 rpm in third isn't where the engine likes to be, so you will pull timing if you try to run too much. It's not hardware related. Just start the logs at 2000 rpm next time.

[mec]

He shouldn't have more timing unless he gets meth. He's already pulling 4.5 degrees in one of the logs, adding more will do no good. Full throttle at 1500 rpm in third isn't where the engine likes to be, so you will pull timing if you try to run too much. It's not hardware related. Just start the logs at 2000 rpm next time.

I log 1200-7000. Pull 0 timing 1200-2000, not sure what you are talking about, the engine will be wherever you want it to be. and it will run.

[mec]

You need meth when you are in boost, to enhance octane and cool the cylinder. at 1500 you are not in boost. meth will not help, you have a fueling issue or a hardware issue.

[aluthman]

What size meth nozzle(s) are you running? I've got a DO4 after the FMIC and a DO2 post TB. I run 15 degrees timing at redline and don't pull timing.

[aluthman]

You need meth when you are in boost, to enhance octane and cool the cylinder. at 1500 you are not in boost. meth will not help, you have a fueling issue or a hardware issue.

Not entirely correct. You need meth when your fuel of choice no longer has sufficient octane to prevent detonation for the cylinder pressures in your engine. Boost is a big factor here, but so is timing and engine CR. If you try to run 35 degrees timing advance at full load in a high gear at low rpm, you will pull timing. Also, the car does not simply run what you tell it for timing. If it detects a knock event, it will reduce timing until the knock goes away and the engine is safe. Only then will it try to go back to what's on the map.

[mec]

Not entirely correct. You need meth when your fuel of choice no longer has sufficient octane to prevent detonation for the cylinder pressures in your engine. Boost is a big factor here, but so is timing and engine CR. If you try to run 35 degrees timing advance at full load in a high gear at low rpm, you will pull timing. Also, the car does not simply run what you tell it for timing. If it detects a knock event, it will reduce timing until the knock goes away and the engine is safe. Only then will it try to go back to what's on the map.

Actually you want high double digit timing for low load conditions. You can't have high load in low rpms, because the engine just can't make it's full load there, especially in higher gears, but if you increase the timing advance at low load, you give the engine much more time to burn the mixture. So if you look at cruise you will see the engine has a high advance because it needs more time to burn the mixture since the cylinder is only being partially filled. But then you start throwing boost at it and you're load goes up, you gotta cut some timing because with the cylinder being packed you don't need as much advance, then timing returns to double digits by redline because the engine is spinning very fast and you need to advance timing more and more to keep making power at the blink of an eye where combustion happens.



Mcsuly! Looking forward to seeing your dyno and drag strip passes!

[aluthman]

Try accelerating in 6th uphill. Thats high load-low rpm. I agree that low load and low rpm will use high timing values, even 35 degrees or so at cruise conditions.

[mec]

Custom dyno tune is cumming along nicely, stay TuN3d.

Is today still delivery day? Rombotis is tuning it?

[mec]

tomorrow aka friday!
dynodoc tuning

awesome can't wait! never heard of them but I hope they do a great job!

[pat_do]

how much have you spent on this car so far?

[aluthman]

It's Friday! We need numbers!

[p0isin]

Got the numbers yet?
























How about now?

[aluthman]

how much have you spent on this car so far?

That question should never be asked, lest McSully total it up and slip into a deep depression. I added mine up once...

[drumnjuny]

its like asking a soldier how many men he's killed. you just don't do it.

[pat_do]

That question should never be asked, lest McSully total it up and slip into a deep depression. I added mine up once...

lol

I modded and then de-modded.

The new tiptronic B8.5 ain' no joke. With just a flash, it will put them down on 93 oct 270whp, 340 wtq. Tiptronic on top of it. I'm seriously considering making the switch. I'd love to own an S4 B8.5 but that's going to set me back ever more.

Went from Stage 2 + back to Stage 1 with W/M. Realized that the B7 will always be what it is...a entry level luxury sedan with a small hint of performance dna built into it.

The 2014 B8 Tiptronic I drove for 2 weeks was surprisingly quick and smooth.

[drumnjuny]

no way they make 340awtq on just a chip sorry. calling BS right now

[Operator]

no way they make 340awtq on just a chip sorry. calling BS right now

The B8's are torque monsters, it's believable. Some of our B7's have made 300TQ on the K03.

Stage I E85 Wheel (Stage II E85 is almost 400wheel TQ)
http://www.goapr.com/products/ecu_up..._long_b85.html

Stage II Wheel
http://www.goapr.com/products/ecu_up...sivl_long.html

[drumnjuny]

well stage 1 is 299awtq butttt that's for the B8.

the B8.5 has even higher numbers on APR. idk if that's possible but it kind of makes me hate myself LOL

[derrek]

So how dose apr get wheel numbers with a hub dyno? Just curious.


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[mec]

So how dose apr get wheel numbers with a hub dyno? Just curious.


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hmmmmm interesting point...I assume they would take the hub numbers and use them as wheel and correct the hub numbers with SAE or some shenangians to make CHP. Or vice versa...either way its all rough calculations.

[pat_do]

no way they make 340awtq on just a chip sorry. calling BS right now

The 2.0tsi has evolved to be quite the engine it is.

[pat_do]

well stage 1 is 299awtq butttt that's for the B8.

the B8.5 has even higher numbers on APR. idk if that's possible but it kind of makes me hate myself LOL

Hence i went back to stage 1 and planning to upgrade to a b8.5.

Imagine the valve lift tsi with a k04 it would be the 2.0t fsi to shame

[LINDW4LL]

B8 s4 > b8.5 a4.

[pat_do]

B8 s4 > b8.5 a4.

Onboard with that.

[mec]

Passshhhh it will be done Saturday? I thought delivery day was Thursday! Time to grab some people by the balls and demand results!

[mec]

That's how the Germans do it

[mec]

what if they ejaculate while grabbing ballz?!?1

trust me i'm eager too...driving a toyota echo 2000

Then you implement the 5 d's. Duck dip dodge dive and duck

[Kubus]

Suleman. Post results!

[blingaling]

Damn my tuner blows lol


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[Operator]

93oct, should put you over 300whp. Not bad!

[mec]

Heyo! this looks so much better than your previous tune, much smoother. How's it feel?

Bit of advice, just off the top of my head, it looks like you might be running that turbo a bit out of its efficiency range. It's one of those dyno things, where you can keep throwing boost at it and it will spike up hard and fall down quickly.

What you want is torque that hits peak and stays there which gives you smooth power. Again this may be just your tuner, a lot of tuners do the "spike" because it makes a car feel fast even though its an illusion, but if you feel it get too jerky, talk to him about smoothing out your torque. Take some time to look at a variety of BT dynos and you'll find they hold their torque once they hit it. The effect is that HP keeps climbing with a flat torque curve, with a downward sloping torque curve your horsepower begins to drop.

Glad to see you finally completed your tune! And it came very close to the k04 record numbers, pretty good stuff!