CEL came back on after getting it fixed at the dealer

[A4TUNE]

Car was throwing a code, P0441 if I remember correctly so I brought it into the dealer to get it checked out. Normally I do all my own work on my car but I just haven't had time lately and figured this would be a quick fix. Anyway, they said the purge valve wasn't opening and closing correctly so they replaced it and I was on my way with no CEL.

Fast forward a few days later, I'm guessing after 7 or 8 on/off cycles and the CEL is back on for the same code. I called the dealer and they said they'd check it again and I wouldn't have to pay another diagnostic charge. However I'm somewhat reluctant to bring it back, am I supposed to just let them keep replacing parts until they get it right? Has anyone else experienced this? Has Audi reimbursed you for any parts that didn't fix your problem? I feel like that would be the appropriate course of action if I didn't even need the purge valve to be replaced and it was something else causing the CEL. Essentially I'm wondering if I should go into Audi and make a fuss about them not replacing the correct part to fix my problem. Thanks!

[diagnosticator]

A code P0440 could mean one or more of the following possible causes has occurred:
•The gas cap is not installed or working properly
•The N80 purge solenoid has failed
•The vapor canister is plugged and not working properly

So, It depends on what specifically is causing the CEL, if the part replaced was the correct fix or not. You should avoid being a difficult customer. See if the dealer can determine for sure what is causing the cel, then discuss adjusting the bill accordingly.

[MikTip]

My guess would be gas cap....

[A4TUNE]

I really don't think it's the gas cap. I've had this CEL for over a year now and have cleared it multiple times and always tighten my gas cap. It always comes back.

[seanf86]

Check the gas cap gasket, I've seen them be intact but cracked and not sealing and give an engine light

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[texasboy21]

I really don't think it's the gas cap. I've had this CEL for over a year now and have cleared it multiple times and always tighten my gas cap. It always comes back.

Try a new gas cap..

Is the N80 clicking? If not than its toast.

Have you 'deleted', 'simplified' or rerouted any of your vacuum lines?

[Myst420]

I had that code come up before. I replaced the purge valve...no luck....then n80, no luck....then gas cap, problem was solved.

[A4TUNE]

Check the gas cap gasket, I've seen them be intact but cracked and not sealing and give an engine light

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Cool, I'll check the gasket when I get home.

[A4TUNE]

Update: So when I brought it back to the dealer they did another inspection and pressure test (for free of course) and found something pretty interesting. Apparently one of the previous owners drilled two small holes in the exhaust for some reason and the fumes from the holes are blowing directly on the evap canister and is melting part of it, causing the CEL.

So they quoted me $2600 (LOL) for a new exhaust and canister + labor. Needless to say I won't be going that route but my question is, has anyone repaired small holes in their exhaust? I'll probably just bring it to this custom exhaust shop down the road and see what the can do, but i'm open to suggestions if you guys have any ideas?

[DiertyEuroSpec]

Just clamp a piece of thin metal over the holes to block the heat, as a temp fix or just have a exhaust company weld in a new section.

[A4TUNE]

Just clamp a piece of thin metal over the holes to block the heat, as a temp fix or just have a exhaust company weld in a new section.

I was actually thinking that. What if i just clamped some metal around the holes and then thermal wrapped it? You think that would be sufficient?

[Myst420]

When I bought my car, the PO had drilled a hole in the upper portion of the pass side intercooler for the boost gauge. It was done in the portion that appeared to be cast iron (or something along those lines) but I was able to have an exhaust shop weld it shut for me. Any decent exhaust shop should be able to close up 2 small holes for a small fee.

[LordO]

When I bought my car, the PO had drilled a hole in the upper portion of the pass side intercooler for the boost gauge.

That sounds like a whole lot of work to do something wrong.

[Myst420]

That sounds like a whole lot of work to do something wrong.

Yea, I still can't wrap my head around why it was done that way. The gauge would only read boost, no vacuum. Plus the gauge was literally just sitting on the left corner of the dash.

[seanf86]

Just have the holes welded up

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[SJorge3442]

so whose paying for the non-faulty purge valve?

[A4TUNE]

so whose paying for the non-faulty purge valve?

That would be me. I asked them why I had to pay for something that didn't fix my problem and they said "the part was faulty because the valve wasn't opening and closing properly, so it was necessary to replace this as a first course of action". I'm not doubting that it wasn't working correctly but it's annoying that they're having me throw money at parts until they find the solution. I guess I remember why I've stayed away from the dealership for so long.

[A4TUNE]

When I bought my car, the PO had drilled a hole in the upper portion of the pass side intercooler for the boost gauge. It was done in the portion that appeared to be cast iron (or something along those lines) but I was able to have an exhaust shop weld it shut for me. Any decent exhaust shop should be able to close up 2 small holes for a small fee.

Cool thanks I'll ask this local place for a quote. How much did you pay?

[Myst420]

I want to say it was like $20.

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[SJorge3442]

That would be me. I asked them why I had to pay for something that didn't fix my problem and they said "the part was faulty because the valve wasn't opening and closing properly, so it was necessary to replace this as a first course of action". I'm not doubting that it wasn't working correctly but it's annoying that they're having me throw money at parts until they find the solution. I guess I remember why I've stayed away from the dealership for so long.

thats rough. I mean, I understand how mechanics work, but you would think that they would put a new part on, see if it fixes it and if it doesnt, then put the old part back on. Oh well. You win some you lose some. How bad is the damage from the heat?