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  1. #1
    Established Member Two Rings
    Join Date
    Dec 29 2011
    AZ Member #
    85919
    Location
    Troy, Pa

    Car overheating not sure why.

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    Alright guys I had another thread about my Tstat not opening up here: http://www.audizine.com/forum/showth...en-tested-good

    So this is a quick outline of everything maybe if I put it together neatly someone can help me.

    In college head coolant flange leaking during warmer weather adding a little water to my coolant figured I could fix it when I get home as I had no tools with me at the time, some water freezes in the lower rad hose and connect to the block unthaw it and the hosing is leaking water everywhere get the car towed home.

    Got a new T-stat, tested it and it opened up, got a new T-stat housing and O-ring and bolts put together then head coolant flange is leaking really bad.

    Fixed the head coolant flange new bolts O-ring flange driving back home and starts overheating look into it and didn't bleed the system so I took it back to the garage I have access to drained everything out filled it back up and tried every bleeding method possible absolutely no luck.

    Pull the water pump and it spins, not like flick my finger and it spins 100 times but if I keep spinning it it keeps going otherwise it stops. Seems okay I thought please let me know if you think otherwise.

    Put everything back together and still no luck, dad says something about the floor being wet so he thinks faulty heater core, I had heat at certain points in the bleeding process btw but the bottom rad hose would not get hot and if it did when I took it down the road not even a mile it would over heat.

    So I block off the heater core and still no luck so we take out the T-stat blocked off heater core bleed the system and it would still over heat. I'm at a complete loss here you guys have any ideas?

    TIA

  2. #2
    Veteran Member Four Rings J Ozzie's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 06 2008
    AZ Member #
    29617
    Location
    Port Moody, Canada

    Id say faulty T stat / Water Pump.

    With out those working perfect... your going to have the issues you have.
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  3. #3
    Established Member Two Rings
    Join Date
    May 29 2013
    AZ Member #
    116154
    Location
    Jacksonville Fl

    Blown head gasket or cracked head?

  4. #4
    Established Member Two Rings
    Join Date
    Dec 29 2011
    AZ Member #
    85919
    Location
    Troy, Pa

    Well that's why I tried taking the T stat out and checked the water pump I'm under the assumption that as long as it spun and the metal impellers were fine it should be okay. Am I wrong in assuming that?

    And I thought the HG or cracked head might be it but it's been run for quite a few hours and no signs of murky oil or coolant.

  5. #5
    Veteran Member Four Rings BlackLock_A4's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 14 2009
    AZ Member #
    47742
    Location
    San Jose

    You already replaced the T stat. Next step is to replace the water pump.

    Sorry, I don't know how new/ used ones should spin either.
    2001 1.8TQM
    Speed doesn't kill. It's that damn sudden stop.

  6. #6
    Established Member Two Rings
    Join Date
    Dec 29 2011
    AZ Member #
    85919
    Location
    Troy, Pa

    Yeah I also think that is the next step. One question I have about that though is during the bleeding process I had the bleed hole open and if I would rev the car the coolant would shoot out of the hole with a lot of force

  7. #7
    Active Member One Ring
    Join Date
    Feb 22 2014
    AZ Member #
    148169
    My Garage
    95 GSX 92 TSI AWD
    Location
    Michigan

    Replace the pump. If you are that far as to taking it off, you should just replace it to cover your basics.

  8. #8
    Veteran Member Four Rings BlackLock_A4's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 14 2009
    AZ Member #
    47742
    Location
    San Jose

    Quote Originally Posted by ZDespreaux View Post
    Yeah I also think that is the next step. One question I have about that though is during the bleeding process I had the bleed hole open and if I would rev the car the coolant would shoot out of the hole with a lot of force
    I don't see the question in here. But yes, that is the correct way. Pull the hose off just enough to give the hole a little freedom. Then when you rev it, it should blow out the air bubble and start squirting out in spurts. After a few seconds, you will get a steady stream - this is when you slide the hose back on and tighten it up. It sound's like you are doing it correct.

    I'm also assuming you're using the correct hoses between the two 'fire walls' which connect to the heater core.
    2001 1.8TQM
    Speed doesn't kill. It's that damn sudden stop.

  9. #9
    Established Member Two Rings
    Join Date
    Dec 29 2011
    AZ Member #
    85919
    Location
    Troy, Pa

    Quote Originally Posted by BlackLock_A4 View Post
    I don't see the question in here. But yes, that is the correct way. Pull the hose off just enough to give the hole a little freedom. Then when you rev it, it should blow out the air bubble and start squirting out in spurts. After a few seconds, you will get a steady stream - this is when you slide the hose back on and tighten it up. It sound's like you are doing it correct.

    I'm also assuming you're using the correct hoses between the two 'fire walls' which connect to the heater core.

    Sorry the question was if that was happen would the water pump be bad? And the thing is I would never get it to the point of a steady stream it would shoot out then steam then add more coolant and shoot out again.

  10. #10
    Established Member Two Rings
    Join Date
    Dec 29 2011
    AZ Member #
    85919
    Location
    Troy, Pa

    Will be home to work on it more tomorrow. Any more input would be great and an answer to whethere or nor coolant would shoot out with a lot of pressure if the water pump was bad would be great.

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