Oil Cooler Housing Reseal Disaster, Need Parts!

[redneck truck]

Today has been an adventure. I pulled the oil cooler housing only to find that it had been resealed sometime after 2004 (the oil cooler has a 2004 date stamp).

I spun the positive lug in the alternator, so I had to cut the nut off. Looking for a new alternator, unless I can get it apart and weld a new lug in there. If someone's got a good, low mileage alternator, I'd like to take it off your hands.

I got the wrong oil cooler housing reseal kit; pretty sure it's for an A8. So, looking for another kit, preferably with the aluminum cooler pipe.

Also looking for new oil cooler housing bolts. Two that came out were already boogered up and rusted and, though I didn't have any problem getting them out, I don't want to reuse them in case I'm not as lucky or well-equipped next time.

Also, after removing the oil cooler to discover more brand new-looking o-rings and a squeaky clean cooler, I fiddled with what looks like a check valve in the port that supplies the cooler. I snapped a few pieces of it off and I'm pretty sure it's ruined, so I need a new cooler housing too.

Also looking for four brand new OEM lower control arms, one front subframe rear plate, and a few other bits. This has been one trying day to say the least! Please let me know if you've got what I need.

[CRuby]

I think I saw this guy selling lower CA's. Might have some of the other stuff you need too.
http://www.audiforums.com/forum/misc...6-2-7t-198897/

[redneck truck]

Unfortunately, those are for a 2.7T, so they will not work. Thank you for looking out for me, though!

[redneck truck]

Is anyone parting out an 01 4.2 motor? The part I need is the RH engine mount bracket, which is also the oil filter housing and the oil cooler housing. Anyone? Bueller?

[SteveKen]

I have an extra bracket/cooler from an RS6, bit it might not work. You can check P/Ns to be sure, though. I know there's an extra outlet where the oil feeds the turbos. You might be able to block it off. Let me know if youre interested.

The only gasket needed is the figure 8 looking one and I normally clean it up and reuse it with RTV for good measure. Done it 4 times like this. Also, I replace the bolts with socket head cap screws obtained locally. The oem low head ones are stupid in design, as they strip too easy.

[redneck truck]

Steve, I emailed you. I've got the figure 8 o-ring; is it not necessary to reseal the cooler to the housing?

[rollerton]

When I did mine a few months ago I didn't touch the oil cooler. Screw that. It wasn't leaking and I wasn't going to give it a reason to start.
I'd MUCH rather have to take the whole thing apart again for something I skipped rather than repeat something I did once and failed. Also, I just bought the aluminum pipe off ebay- I assumed everyone got theirs the same way generally.
And I have a variety of leftover OEM used bolts and things if you know the length/ thread etc. I don't have a million, but I do have a random selection from doing random things one VW's and Audi's.

[redneck truck]

It's pretty easy to ensure something doesn't leak upon reassembly if you're careful. However, if I hadn't removed the cooler, I wouldn't have destroyed the check valve, either.

I'll measure all the bolts that secure the housing to the block and get back with you, because I'd definitely like to upgrade those to bolts with some deeper Allen heads.

I've already got an alternator coming, so all that's left is the housing, unless the one Steve Has works out. Anyone else have one?

[redneck truck]

Bump it up! Still need:

- RH engine mount bracket/oil cooler housing
- Oil cooler housing reseal kit
- Bufkin aluminum coolant pipe with o-rings
- Front subframe LH rear support plate (goes between rear subframe bolt and subframe, and bolts to body with 2 small bolts.

[redneck truck]

Part number for the plate I need is 4B3 399 541 A. Somebody must have one of these sitting!

[Vinnie981]

is the the oil cooler seal you need?

[redneck truck]

No, I have no idea what that is! Below is a picture of the big aluminum piece I need, why I need it, and what other seals I need.

[OGBULLYLOCDAWG]

There's always part-outs listed over on Vortex.

Here's a 4.2 being parted out with a bad motor:
http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthrea...d-transmission

Maybe the part(s) you need is still salvageable?

[redneck truck]

I sent him a PM. Thanks a lot for the link!

[Vinnie981]

Sorry I forgot you have 4.2l

[redneck truck]

Received the RS6 oil cooler/filter housing from SteveKen (first picture). The filter flange has 2 OUT holes while the A6 one (second picture) just has one. It is cast for 2, but the second one is plugged. Suggestions? Can anyone shed some light on why it is this way?

[redneck truck]

Pics of sandwich adapter added. Some have suggested the plug oriented vertically in the bottom two pictures is a thermostatic bypass, while others say it's just a check valve. Any insight would be very helpful.

[Scotty@Advanced]

With the cost of a seal kit being $40.00 and the cost to redo work because of re-using ancient o-rings being another engine removal, I'd opt for the added insurance the new parts provides.

[rollerton]

With the cost of a seal kit being $40.00 and the cost to redo work because of re-using ancient o-rings being another engine removal, I'd opt for the added insurance the new parts provides.

Dahell? Did I miss part of the project? Who pulls an engine to do oil cooler seals?

[Scotty@Advanced]

Dahell? Did I miss part of the project? Who pulls an engine to do oil cooler seals?

Engine removal makes it an opportunity to change the torque converter, reseal the oil cooler and take care of the rear water pipe o-rings. The time to change the cooler with engine in situ is about 30-45 minutes less than dropping the engine/trans and subframe.

[redneck truck]

I left the front end on and dropped the motor slightly an I've got a decent amount of room to work. However, I didn't think about the rear water pipe orings. Are those on their way out too?

[Scotty@Advanced]

I left the front end on and dropped the motor slightly an I've got a decent amount of room to work. However, I didn't think about the rear water pipe orings. Are those on their way out too?

Maybe it's my luck, but seems like every 4.2 I've gotten in shows signs of them leaking.

[RobParker]

Reviving this thread. Does anyone have one of these to spare? A buddy of mine cracked his somehow. It's for a 2001 A6 4.2. I've looked through classifieds, online, nothing. Dealership wants like $700 for it which is outrageous.

[redneck truck]

I've got an RS6 one to spare.