Best Axles?

[Neill555]

I need to replace an axle. What are good or decent parts? I am selling the car. I found some here: http://tinyurl.com/k9d66wm

Thanks! Also in Canada so can't ship to the US but maybe I can find them here.

1997 A4 B5 V6 2.8l Quattro 12V

[redline380]

the link is no good. Either way, I think the 97 12v axles are unique in b5's, so you can't "upgrade" to other axles within the platform. (they are tri-rotor style, right?)

You best option is rebuilt OEM axle pretty much anytime.

[Neill555]

Oh, the whole axle is like $95 or so including CV joint. I have never replacved them before. Here is the whole link. FEQ or EMPI exles. Maybe there are others that can be recommended. I ahve read the just replacing the whole axle is cheaper and better. Thoughts are appreciated.

http://www.autopartsway.ca/PartList..../pagenum1/tabS

[AudiB5owner]

FEQ and EMPI are the two companies that make aftermarket axles. The OEM ones will cost you a lot more. And those are half axles, they come with the CV boot usually attached. Not much to them, they just bolt on to the diff or tranny and fit into the wheel bearing with splines. I was the .0001% that had a defective aftermarket axle that snapped at the U joint connecting to the transmission. If you're selling it I wouldn't be worried, just make sure you have warranty.

A shop should cost around $200 for install and parts depending on labor costs.

[Mad Cow]

If you're selling the car just slap on an old axle, it'll last maybe a year before it starts making noise again though. The best option is an OEM axle, if you don't want to do that the second best option is buying an OEM CV joint and replacing yours.

[Neill555]

so the axle and CV joint come together as an whole assembly correct? I need to know what I am talking about when I talk to the mechanic. All I know is there is serious clicking when I turn the car. Trying to figure out the best and cheapest way here. I don't want any used parts I don't think to Save an extra $30 or anything. Hope to hear from someone. thanks

[walky_talky20]

Your choices are the following (in order of reliability from crappy to best):

A - Remanufactured axle from China
B - New Chinese axle (pretty much any new axle under $200 is Chinese)
C - New aftermarket outer CV joint and boot on your existing axle
D - Used OEM axle from junkyard
E - Rebuilt OEM axle from quality rebuilder like Raxles
F - New OEM axle from dealership

"D" is the sweetspot here. Junkyards sell Genuine Audi axles at giveaway prices due to the massive influx of cheap crap axles from china. People would rather buy a new piece of garbage from china than use a Genuine Audi axle that has been in somebody else's car (the horror). So they have to give them away at $35-$40 with a 6-month warranty and people still won't take them. But this is where it's at.

[Seerlah]

Picked up a used OEM one for $55 shipped when my cv joint went.

[Neill555]

So FEQ and EMPI are junk.. I think I should go for a used axle then.

[Seerlah]

I think it's the better route.

[walky_talky20]

If you are selling the car, being able to say (and prove) you installed a NEW axle will probably be better. Most people would rather hear the parts are "new" rather than used, even if the used one is 10x higher quality.

[nynoah]

My recommendation. Find a place that can rebuild yours locally and have them rebuild it. There are so many different axle configurations for Audis. When I was working at a shop we had to be meticulous about matching them up and for the most part we just defaulted to sending the stock one out for a rebuild. Even then, we would take pictures to make sure the place that rebuilt them put exactly the same part on that we needed.

[Duds]

Have you taken a look at the cv? If it's clicking while turning and not while going straight as well chances are it's still good. Take it apart and take a look, if it's clean repack and slap a new boot on. $10 boot with grease and a $3 axle bolt from the dealer. But if your going Chinese your local aftermarket part store should be able to get feq/empi axles at the same price, and FYI your US equivalent of Autopartsway would be Rockauto.

[walky_talky20]

If it's clicking while turning and not while going straight as well chances are it's still good.

Wha?

If the joint is clicking, it's junk. Greasing it isn't going to make the worn parts fit tighter. And a boot to cover that tragedy up isn't going to help either. The joint is run dry, the parts wear, it clicks, it's junk. End of story.

[Seerlah]

^This. Left me stranded on the side of the road. Had to get towed home.

[nynoah]

Clicking while turning indicates that the exterior CV joint is bad. Clicking regardless of turning means interior. Clicking at all means.... new joint not repack. If you are not clicking and more that you have a blown boot, then you might be able to get away with a boot and repack job. If you have never done one, I suggest just having a shop do it for you. Saves buying the tool to get the band done right. Also if you don't have a degrease to clean out the CV well, then you are doing a half assed job. Plus its dirty and nasty. I have done enough to see the value in paying someone else to do a boot repack.

[Duds]

I did say to check it, chances are it's been clicking forever and its toast. Taking it off, disassembling the CV itself and cleaning it up to check for scoring or pitting is free as well as taking not much of your time. The guy is looking for cheap. I would do this first as you'll need to take the axle off to replace it regardless.

[Mad Cow]

I did say to check it, chances are it's been clicking forever and its toast. Taking it off, disassembling the CV itself and cleaning it up to check for scoring or pitting is free as well as taking not much of your time. The guy is looking for cheap. I would do this first as you'll need to take the axle off to replace it regardless.

Clicking means the joint's toast, there's no use in wasting time taking everything apart. If you bust a hole in the side of your block you're not gonna take it apart to inspect the crank bearings.