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  1. #1
    Veteran Member Four Rings 01audia4's Avatar
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    Keep tearing front inner CV boots

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    Hey guys,

    I've replaced my inner CV boots(both sides) two months ago. Had the car up on the lift because I herd a clicking while starting in first with the wheels turned..Inner CV boots are ripped again.

    I am 25" FTG so I don't believe my height is causing this as I have ridden both my old A4's at this height for many years. Both CV boots were OEM and installed properly.

    My friend/mechanic said my inner CV joints were probably bad causing lots of slack in the axle therefore tearing the CV boots, so at this point it is buy a new axle or get a CV joint repair kit(however i found it to be 200+ on ECS website for the inner front).

    I am stage 3 so I know EMPI/Autozone axles won't work for my setup as many people have snapped them at this power level. Raxles was my next choice from what I have searched on the forums.

    Can anyone shed some suggestions or information?

    Thank you.

    Came across this thread on a quick search, however maybe mine is also coincidence? Heat shields are in. Motor mounts are solid 034 and I have street density trans mounts.
    http://www.audizine.com/forum/showth...torn-again-WTF
    2001 A4 2.8-->1999 a4 1.8tq 220K-->2000 K04 S4--->2001 F21 S4 eating corn w/ stock rods

  2. #2
    Veteran Member Four Rings AMC's Avatar
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    Put your axle heatsheilds back on
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  3. #3
    Established Member Two Rings joelhski's Avatar
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    Brother, have you checked your engine mounts? Broken mounts, believe it or not can cause a CV boot to tear.
    APR Software, APR Snub Mount, SSAC turbo Back, Forge Diverters, EVO Cold Air Intake, South Bend Stage 2 Endurance with LWF, FK Coilovers, APR Bi-Pipe

  4. #4
    Veteran Member Four Rings zillarob's Avatar
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    Ive never seen any probs from ripping on fresh boots.
    Did have a run a while back that were clamped funny and letting the boot slip out from underneath the clamp though.

    The one on the left is factory, I believe the right was lobro/gkn. I only had probs with a few, like the machine wasnt set up right that day.

    There are only 2 things needed to make an Audi work properly - Duct tape and WD40. If it moves and it shouldn't - Duct tape. If it doesn’t move and it should - WD40.

  5. #5
    Veteran Member Four Rings 01audia4's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by AMC View Post
    Put your axle heatsheilds back on
    Re-read post. Axle heat-shields are on.

    Quote Originally Posted by joelhski View Post
    Brother, have you checked your engine mounts? Broken mounts, believe it or not can cause a CV boot to tear.
    Brand new 034 Solid engine mounts w/ 8MM studs.



    Quote Originally Posted by zillarob View Post
    Ive never seen any probs from ripping on fresh boots.
    Did have a run a while back that were clamped funny and letting the boot slip out from underneath the clamp though.

    The one on the left is factory, I believe the right was lobro/gkn. I only had probs with a few, like the machine wasnt set up right that day.
    Hmm maybe try again? My mechanic seems hesitant, he doesn't feel like doing it and I don't feel like buying new CV boots every month. Maybe I should try again with a different kit.
    2001 A4 2.8-->1999 a4 1.8tq 220K-->2000 K04 S4--->2001 F21 S4 eating corn w/ stock rods

  6. #6
    Veteran Member Four Rings AMC's Avatar
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    Oops didn't read much but your topic post sorry man
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  7. #7
    Veteran Member Four Rings ianwpb's Avatar
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    Are you manual or auto?
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  8. #8
    Veteran Member Four Rings 01audia4's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by AMC View Post
    Oops didn't read much but your topic post sorry man
    No problem. Thank you though.
    Quote Originally Posted by ianwpb View Post
    Are you manual or auto?
    Sorry didn't specify that one. Manual.
    2001 A4 2.8-->1999 a4 1.8tq 220K-->2000 K04 S4--->2001 F21 S4 eating corn w/ stock rods

  9. #9
    Veteran Member Four Rings ianwpb's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by 01audia4 View Post
    No problem. Thank you though.

    Sorry didn't specify that one. Manual.
    Hmm, if you were Auto I'd have a theory, but it doesn't work with manual axles.

    Have you disassembled the inner cv's to look for any excessive wear on the bearings/cups etc?
    '16 Q5 3.0t S-line Daytona Grey Pearl, Black Optics, APR stage 1, Magnaflow exhaust (Looking for stock exhaust)
    '16 S3 Misano Red Pearl, Black Optics
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    '13 BMW 135Is 6MT Coupe - #387/586
    '01 S4 6MT - SRM K24's, Stock Block, E85 448/392 Mustang Dyno
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  10. #10
    Veteran Member Three Rings rippin'av's Avatar
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    I say just replace the entire axle and be done with it. Much easier that doing the boots by them selves and so much cleaner too. As long as you're not launching like an ass-hat you should be fine with most decent axles. Raxles is by far the best reputation that I've heard of (don't have personal experience) but I've never had any issues since I got mine from ECS.
    2015 Jeep Unlimited Rubicon
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  11. #11
    Veteran Member Four Rings zillarob's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by 01audia4 View Post
    Hmm maybe try again? My mechanic seems hesitant, he doesn't feel like doing it and I don't feel like buying new CV boots every month. Maybe I should try again with a different kit.
    If they are just slipping out and not actually tearing, def try a dif kit. I still use the gkn/lobro ones without anymore probs, just had a few from a bad batch I guess.
    Prob same thing if they are actually ripping, but could be an indicator of another problem. Worth a shot before springing for axles.
    There are only 2 things needed to make an Audi work properly - Duct tape and WD40. If it moves and it shouldn't - Duct tape. If it doesn’t move and it should - WD40.

  12. #12
    Veteran Member Three Rings alm001's Avatar
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    Are you going past 140 frequently?
    -Andrew

  13. #13
    Veteran Member Four Rings wbrunner23's Avatar
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    Long shot, but since you said your mechanic replaced them...

    When you put a new inner boot on, if the axel is moved in such a way as to push air out of the boot, when it comes back to its normal position, the displaced air will create a crease in the boot (if you move your axel in and out, you'll hear a suction noise from the boot). You need to squeeze a screwdriver or something into the boot from the axel side to release the vacuum/crease.

    I've ruined a brand new boot this way before. If you had enough slack in the joint to cause brand new boots to tear, you'd have other symptoms to back up that assumption.

  14. #14
    Veteran Member Four Rings blmlozz's Avatar
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    I am stage 3 so I know EMPI/Autozone axles won't work for my setup as many people have snapped them at this power level. Raxles was my next choice from what I have searched on the forums.
    Autozone axles come in 2 flavors, 'new' chinese empi style and OEM reman, the red band duralast level are OEM shafts and joints (usually, they basically rebuild anything the customer exchanges which can sometimes be empi axles)

    I have 2 duralast axles on the front of the S right now. They're OEM shafts and OEM GKN joints.

    If you can afford them, I would highly recommend RA axles however. New GKN joints, new silicone boots, excellent product.
    Last edited by blmlozz; 01-29-2014 at 05:40 AM.

  15. #15
    Veteran Member Four Rings 01audia4's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by zillarob View Post
    If they are just slipping out and not actually tearing, def try a dif kit. I still use the gkn/lobro ones without anymore probs, just had a few from a bad batch I guess.
    Prob same thing if they are actually ripping, but could be an indicator of another problem. Worth a shot before springing for axles.
    They are 100% torn. I got both inners at different times, within 10 days of each other. So could be the same batch.
    Quote Originally Posted by alm001 View Post
    Are you going past 140 frequently?
    Not with my winter tires on. . But no I don't hit 140.
    Quote Originally Posted by wbrunner23 View Post
    Long shot, but since you said your mechanic replaced them...

    When you put a new inner boot on, if the axel is moved in such a way as to push air out of the boot, when it comes back to its normal position, the displaced air will create a crease in the boot (if you move your axel in and out, you'll hear a suction noise from the boot). You need to squeeze a screwdriver or something into the boot from the axel side to release the vacuum/crease.

    I've ruined a brand new boot this way before. If you had enough slack in the joint to cause brand new boots to tear, you'd have other symptoms to back up that assumption.
    Will, not sure how he did them. But I can tell you he has done boots on my old 2.8 and 1.8(never an inner though). I would assume he knows what he is doing as he has always done work on my car whenever I felt lazy.
    Quote Originally Posted by blmlozz View Post
    Autozone axles come in 2 flavors, 'new' chinese empi style and OEM reman, the red band duralast level are OEM shafts and joints (usually, they basically rebuild anything the customer exchanges which can sometimes be empi axles)

    I have 2 duralast axles on the front of the S right now. They're OEM shafts and OEM GKN joints.

    If you can afford them, I would highly recommend RA axles however. New GKN joints, new silicone boots, excellent product.
    BLM-I called pepboys, they have A1 cardone rebuild Audi OEM axles, not very expensive 99.99 w/ my core.

    Autozone has Duralast both new and re manufactured, which ones are my better bet? The A1 or the Duralast? I can't say I launch my car much anyway, feel bad for my drivetrain. Right now I just want to get boots on my car before these CV's break due to the salt and shit on the road.
    2001 A4 2.8-->1999 a4 1.8tq 220K-->2000 K04 S4--->2001 F21 S4 eating corn w/ stock rods

  16. #16
    Senior Member Two Rings
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    I just talked to you about this issue when you bought your coolant. I don't have any theories or recommendations that come to mind but I can get you a damn good deal on 2 new OEM outer boots if you need them. PM me for the price.

  17. #17
    Veteran Member Four Rings 01audia4's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by s4avant87 View Post
    I just talked to you about this issue when you bought your coolant. I don't have any theories or recommendations that come to mind but I can get you a damn good deal on 2 new OEM outer boots if you need them. PM me for the price.
    Excellent. I'll have to get your number too. I'll PM you later today. I need inners though. I replaced both my outers already they are holding up great !

    Sent from my SCH-I535 using Tapatalk
    2001 A4 2.8-->1999 a4 1.8tq 220K-->2000 K04 S4--->2001 F21 S4 eating corn w/ stock rods

  18. #18
    Veteran Member Four Rings blmlozz's Avatar
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    Autozone has Duralast both new and re manufactured, which ones are my better bet? The A1 or the Duralast?
    I wouldn't touch anything A-1 crapdone.

    Personally, for something like this I would go autozone's reman (as I said they're OEM axles, but you can refuse them if they turn out to be empi and ask them to order another set), they have a lifetime replacement warranty and often you can get an axle same day or NBD locally, they even have new CV gaskets so you save $15 there too . That's extremely attractive when it's your only ride.

    RAaxles are probably the closest you can get to a brand new audi axle aside from an acutal new OEM axle, I have 2 of those on the rear and whenever I need to reboot the fronts I'll be picking up a set of those. RA uses new GKN joints, silicone boots and doesn't grind down the splines (which may weaken it)

    But for most people, I would suggest anything OEM reman they can get locally.

    You can save even more money by rebooting CV axles, but then to do it right you really need to take the cage apart and re-pack it which is an extremely filthy process(and you *can* put it together wrong so it will seize together) which I will never do again to save the $30-40 or whatever it is.
    Last edited by blmlozz; 01-29-2014 at 08:37 AM.

  19. #19
    Active Member Four Rings
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    Quote Originally Posted by blmlozz View Post
    RAaxles are probably the closest you can get to a brand new audi axle aside from an acutal new OEM axle, I have 2 of those on the rear and whenever I need to reboot the fronts I'll be picking up a set of those. RA uses new GKN joints, silicone boots and doesn't grind down the splines (which may weaken it)
    I was going to ask how much your RAxles cost but they got back to me in record time (10 minutes): 200 bucks/side. No upfront core charge and they pay shipping to return the cores. Considering how much trouble it takes to R&R axles, this may be the deal of the year...

  20. #20
    Veteran Member Four Rings blmlozz's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by rdcyclist View Post
    I was going to ask how much your RAxles cost but they got back to me in record time (10 minutes): 200 bucks/side. No upfront core charge and they pay shipping to return the cores. Considering how much trouble it takes to R&R axles, this may be the deal of the year...
    there's a thread where I did a little review if you go searching, I'm happy with them.

  21. #21
    Veteran Member Four Rings 01audia4's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by blmlozz View Post
    I wouldn't touch anything A-1 crapdone.

    Personally, for something like this I would go autozone's reman (as I said they're OEM axles, but you can refuse them if they turn out to be empi and ask them to order another set), they have a lifetime replacement warranty and often you can get an axle same day or NBD locally, they even have new CV gaskets so you save $15 there too . That's extremely attractive when it's your only ride.

    RAaxles are probably the closest you can get to a brand new audi axle aside from an acutal new OEM axle, I have 2 of those on the rear and whenever I need to reboot the fronts I'll be picking up a set of those. RA uses new GKN joints, silicone boots and doesn't grind down the splines (which may weaken it)

    But for most people, I would suggest anything OEM reman they can get locally.

    You can save even more money by rebooting CV axles, but then to do it right you really need to take the cage apart and re-pack it which is an extremely filthy process(and you *can* put it together wrong so it will seize together) which I will never do again to save the $30-40 or whatever it is.
    Awesome. I'll give the duralast a try. They are $70 and I need them quick. Maybe after they go if they give me problems I switch to Raxles. TY for the info.
    2001 A4 2.8-->1999 a4 1.8tq 220K-->2000 K04 S4--->2001 F21 S4 eating corn w/ stock rods

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