ABZ swap information

[wolfe2118]

For those who are looking for information on the B5 ABZ swap. B5 wiring diagrams, A8(ABZ) wiring diagrams, random threads and pictures I've collected and coding info(still not complete). Feel free to add to this for all 4.2L engines.

http://jmp.sh/b/lWzjkfUkr9NVqzRyBHF0

[Future]

Thanks for the goodies, here's my project and first car, I'm 17. Still need the 034 Flywheel and stage 3 clutch...

[Corrado_Guy]

Thanks for the goodies, here's my project and first car, I'm 17. Still need the 034 Flywheel and stage 3 clutch...

Good for you, when I was your age I was usually fucked up or causing trouble (usually both) so it is good to see you making good use of your time. Looks like a cool project, hopefully it works out for you.

[walky_talky20]

V8 AWD 5-speed euro sedan at 17?

Kid, you are doing it right. Props.

[wolfe2118]

32V, I'm assuming.

• Don't forget to relocate your crank sensor that goes on in the bellhousing otherwise you will be scratching your head trying to figure out why it runs like ass.
• Don't get roped into buying 034s immobilizer delete and manual transmission adaptation, there are two people on here that I know of who can socket your stock A8 ecu and burn the 96-97 S6plus file for you.
• If you are handy with a tap you can pull the oil filter housing, hack off your alternator bracket and tap the block to accept two 1/2 NPT barbed fittings for an external oil filter and cooler(be absolutely sure you get all of the shavings out of the block with a shop vac and a small piece of hose). Bottom oil hole is pressure from the oil pump, top is filtered oil from the filter.
• I can get you part numbers and pictures of how I did my belt routing, it gets rid of the stock spring and shock tensioner assembly and replaces it with a tensioner that is cheaper to replace.
• Feel free to ditch all of those extra vacuum lines around the throttle body, all you really need is a check valve at the brake booster. All the other lines are just more sources for vacuum leaks down the road.'
  

Let me know if you need any help, I may even take some pictures of my annotated wiring diagram that shows what gets spliced into the chassis plugs if I get ambitious. The 32V swap is not as easy as the 40V swap but with a welder you can fab up engine mounts while the transmission is bolted its mounts and the engine bolted to the transmission. No need to get super accurate just as close as possible, you can always shim the mounts any way you want if you are not happy with how it sits.

[trau]

32V, I'm assuming.

• Don't forget to relocate your crank sensor that goes on in the bellhousing otherwise you will be scratching your head trying to figure out why it runs like ass.
• Don't get roped into buying 034s immobilizer delete and manual transmission adaptation, there are two people on here that I know of who can socket your stock A8 ecu and burn the 96-97 S6plus file for you.
• If you are handy with a tap you can pull the oil filter housing, hack off your alternator bracket and tap the block to accept two 1/2 NPT barbed fittings for an external oil filter and cooler(be absolutely sure you get all of the shavings out of the block with a shop vac and a small piece of hose). Bottom oil hole is pressure from the oil pump, top is filtered oil from the filter.
• I can get you part numbers and pictures of how I did my belt routing, it gets rid of the stock spring and shock tensioner assembly and replaces it with a tensioner that is cheaper to replace.
• Feel free to ditch all of those extra vacuum lines around the throttle body, all you really need is a check valve at the brake booster. All the other lines are just more sources for vacuum leaks down the road.'
  

Let me know if you need any help, I may even take some pictures of my annotated wiring diagram that shows what gets spliced into the chassis plugs if I get ambitious. The 32V swap is not as easy as the 40V swap but with a welder you can fab up engine mounts while the transmission is bolted its mounts and the engine bolted to the transmission. No need to get super accurate just as close as possible, you can always shim the mounts any way you want if you are not happy with how it sits.

Hi All - Thanks for helping out and Info on this, This is the Dad to the 17 y/o doing the project. Tell him to get a Job!... to pay for some this and Clean my Garage!:P... i am Excited for this project also, and proud of him for his efforts. If he doesn't chip in on this, i am keeping the car when its done ; p

[walky_talky20]

^Haha. I love this post. "get a job!", lol.

[trau]

Yeah he was telling about the wiring diagram post - but he forgot where he had saw it. He'll be surprised when he finds out I am on the thread :P

[xthealienatorx]

Thanks for the goodies, here's my project and first car, I'm 17. Still need the 034 Flywheel and stage 3 clutch...

You sir, i envy you. Im about to turn 17 in a few weeks, and ive so badly been wanting to upgrade to a 4.2 from my 2.8, but my parents dont see the awesomeness or how much it will help with my engineering plans. Although i did talk them into build a ariel atom variant from ground up while i design it in CAD.. 4.2 is my project after the kit car is done... Hopefully..

Sent from my SGH-T989 using Tapatalk

[bagged2drag]

32V, I'm assuming.

• Don't forget to relocate your crank sensor that goes on in the bellhousing otherwise you will be scratching your head trying to figure out why it runs like ass.
• Don't get roped into buying 034s immobilizer delete and manual transmission adaptation, there are two people on here that I know of who can socket your stock A8 ecu and burn the 96-97 S6plus file for you.
• If you are handy with a tap you can pull the oil filter housing, hack off your alternator bracket and tap the block to accept two 1/2 NPT barbed fittings for an external oil filter and cooler(be absolutely sure you get all of the shavings out of the block with a shop vac and a small piece of hose). Bottom oil hole is pressure from the oil pump, top is filtered oil from the filter.
• I can get you part numbers and pictures of how I did my belt routing, it gets rid of the stock spring and shock tensioner assembly and replaces it with a tensioner that is cheaper to replace.
• Feel free to ditch all of those extra vacuum lines around the throttle body, all you really need is a check valve at the brake booster. All the other lines are just more sources for vacuum leaks down the road.'
  

Let me know if you need any help, I may even take some pictures of my annotated wiring diagram that shows what gets spliced into the chassis plugs if I get ambitious. The 32V swap is not as easy as the 40V swap but with a welder you can fab up engine mounts while the transmission is bolted its mounts and the engine bolted to the transmission. No need to get super accurate just as close as possible, you can always shim the mounts any way you want if you are not happy with how it sits.

I have a couple questions regarding this swap. I am doing an ABZ swap into a 94 Audi 90CS. I have a factory harness and ECU out of a 98 A8. What specifically needs to be done with the ecu and crank sensor? I was originally looking at 034 for the immobilizer defeat and recode for the manual transmission, but I was able to find a different immobilizer defeat "somewhere else" for a much better price. You mention socketing the A8 ecu and burning in the S6plus file, is this the reason for the crank sensor relocation? I am about a week away from getting my engine out of the car (I work a lot, and far from home). All I have left is to unbolt it from the trans and yank out. I already have the 034 flywheel adapter (I'm thinking of getting it CMM'ed to reproduce IF there's a big enough market for it). Any additional details would be helpful. It is currently my intention to keep hard costs to a minimum until I have the car "fired up." I would rather double up on the labor than throw numerous other variables into the debug of getting it running. As far as the stock ecu- the information I seemed to find stated that the missing trans primarily causes irregular idle? Is this the case as well?

[bagged2drag]

..and kudo's to the 17 year old who's doing this swap, and to his dad as well. Many of us would have been glad to have a parent take an interest in a project like this. Good luck to you both!

[wolfe2118]

I have a couple questions regarding this swap. I am doing an ABZ swap into a 94 Audi 90CS. I have a factory harness and ECU out of a 98 A8. What specifically needs to be done with the ecu and crank sensor? I was originally looking at 034 for the immobilizer defeat and recode for the manual transmission, but I was able to find a different immobilizer defeat "somewhere else" for a much better price. You mention socketing the A8 ecu and burning in the S6plus file, is this the reason for the crank sensor relocation? I am about a week away from getting my engine out of the car (I work a lot, and far from home). All I have left is to unbolt it from the trans and yank out. I already have the 034 flywheel adapter (I'm thinking of getting it CMM'ed to reproduce IF there's a big enough market for it). Any additional details would be helpful. It is currently my intention to keep hard costs to a minimum until I have the car "fired up." I would rather double up on the labor than throw numerous other variables into the debug of getting it running. As far as the stock ecu- the information I seemed to find stated that the missing trans primarily causes irregular idle? Is this the case as well?

You should be able to run the car and drive the car on the stock a8 ecu as long as the immobilizer is off. I've been driving mine for months on the A8 file because apparently the S6+ file requires different injectors, cams, and possibly a MAF from the S6+ which I don't want to buy yet. As far as the idle because of the missing trans signal, I have not had that problem just a code that says its missing and since I never wired in my check engine light, it never bothers me. Same with the rear O2 sensors...they are gone, I have a code but it doesn't affect the way it runs. I average about 25-28 MPG on the highway and the city I don't keep track because I beat the piss out of it on surface streets. I've put a couple thousand miles on mine as a daily driver and never had any idle problems that others speak of. Once you have it wired, it should fire right up and drive just like it was still in the A8.

Please don't copy the 034 flywheel, it was their idea and a damn good one. The market for it is not very big anyways since the 40V engine is 100 times easier to use. Copying it would put you in a league with the Chinese and no one likes that. In all reality, it's not that expensive when you consider how light and durable it is. While you are at it, get their oil filter relocation kit as it will save you time and hassle from oil leaks but remember that the bottom hole is coming from the pump, the top is coming from the filter.

[ontheedge56]

i am in the process of swapping an abz into an audi 90 and having trouble finding a concrete way to bypass the immobilizer.

is there a part of the harness that i can send k, + and - into to bypass it or is the communication more complex than that?

EDIT: for the abz ecu is it possible to connect via OBD not in boot mode to reflash the EEPROM? if so what alterations would i be looking to make to the code?

[Audiobahn95]

32V, I'm assuming.

• Don't forget to relocate your crank sensor that goes on in the bellhousing otherwise you will be scratching your head trying to figure out why it runs like ass.
• Don't get roped into buying 034s immobilizer delete and manual transmission adaptation, there are two people on here that I know of who can socket your stock A8 ecu and burn the 96-97 S6plus file for you.
• If you are handy with a tap you can pull the oil filter housing, hack off your alternator bracket and tap the block to accept two 1/2 NPT barbed fittings for an external oil filter and cooler(be absolutely sure you get all of the shavings out of the block with a shop vac and a small piece of hose). Bottom oil hole is pressure from the oil pump, top is filtered oil from the filter.
• I can get you part numbers and pictures of how I did my belt routing, it gets rid of the stock spring and shock tensioner assembly and replaces it with a tensioner that is cheaper to replace.
• Feel free to ditch all of those extra vacuum lines around the throttle body, all you really need is a check valve at the brake booster. All the other lines are just more sources for vacuum leaks down the road.'
  

Let me know if you need any help, I may even take some pictures of my annotated wiring diagram that shows what gets spliced into the chassis plugs if I get ambitious. The 32V swap is not as easy as the 40V swap but with a welder you can fab up engine mounts while the transmission is bolted its mounts and the engine bolted to the transmission. No need to get super accurate just as close as possible, you can always shim the mounts any way you want if you are not happy with how it sits.

I am looking into purchasing this guys car, he has the complete engine (abz 4.2 32v) from 2000 A6 (C5) as well as a complete 01a 5sp transmission from a 1.8 (98). I understand I need the 4.2 motor mounts from A6 and may need to trim the radiator in order to make it clear the front bumper. But apart from that I hear the engine bolts up to transmission easily and transmission bolts easily to differential because the 01a came from a quattro as well. The next step would be connecting the wiring harness from the 4.2 into the computer of the b5. As for the next part I have heard many different versions as to what I should to the ecu? Does it need a reflash does it need to be replaced, or will the immobilizer prevent it from firing? I have heard that the b5 ignitions do not have an immobilizer feature and neither does the 4.2 32v from only a 2000 A6... With this said it seems like it would be plug and play with the wires and no computer tune or remap is needed. However I am confused because it seems that a lot of people doing this swap on this forumn have had problems with immo defeat and idle problems. How much work will this swap require in terms of electronics?
Thanks!

[bhusted]

If you're getting the engine from a 2000 C5 A6, it will be the 40v V8, engine code ART. The problem with the immobilizer is that the V8 was never paired with a manual transmission in the US. The ECU will continue to try and communicate with the TCU. The result is limited drive-ability with rev hang, a high idle, etc. To get around this, many of us with the 40v have flashed a modified euro S6 ECU, which was equipped with immobilizer. You car (1998) will be drive by cable, whereas the engine is DBW. You'll have to install the DBW throttle pedal, associated wiring harness, and map any pins to change in the '98 harness.

[Audiobahn95]

Okay I was told it came from an A6 but I may have been told wrong the engine is a 32v v8 abz from an A8 94-99. Would this be the same circumstance with needing a manual conversion this engine because I dont believe A8s come in a stick. Is a flash still necessary, what would I need to do to pair this to the B5s ecu? I have the complete wiring harness.

[bhusted]

The ECU will still need to be modified for the manual transmission. I think user "k0mpresd" has modified ABZ ECUs for others. You may want to PM him about getting the ECU ready.

[mk1 rabbit gti]

can you give any info on the wiring that had to be made? looking at doing this to my 98

[Nollywood]

can you give any info on the wiring that had to be made? looking at doing this to my 98

I have done the 32V swap into a couple of B5's, not ABZ's though, rather the AHC engines from the D2 S8. I chopped off the chassis plugs, and attached the plugs of the stock B5's.

One was running VEMS, so no good to you. The other however was running the stock Bosch Motronic, it helped I had both wiring diagrams (B5 and D2) in front of me. The colour codes as far as the wires go is very similar.

What engine is currently in your B5?

[mk1 rabbit gti]

My 98 has an AEB. I can get a ABZ for pretty cheap, I just don't know what the d2 body plugs look like compared to the pre facelift b5.

[Audiobahn95]

My 98 has an AEB. I can get a ABZ for pretty cheap, I just don't know what the d2 body plugs look like compared to the pre facelift b5.

I need some help with what wiring is needed to be done after the ecu re flash and immo defeat. I see how four of the connectors from the engine wiring harness of the 32v abz hook up to its ecu (ME 7.1.1) but I have no clue where the rest of the wires and connectors go can anyone give me some hints?

[Nollywood]

I need some help with what wiring is needed to be done after the ecu re flash and immo defeat. I see how four of the connectors from the engine wiring harness of the 32v abz hook up to its ecu (ME 7.1.1) but I have no clue where the rest of the wires and connectors go can anyone give me some hints?

None of the chassis plugs from the ABZ harness are plug-and-play into the B5 pre-facelift electronic box. You will need both wiring diagrams, and will need to unpin the ABZ plugs, and re-pin them into the AEB plugs. Or cut off both sets of plugs, soldering the ABZ wires onto the relevant AEB items.

One thing is very important - it is pretty easy to junk all the engine running sections of the AEB harness, leaving just the reverse lamp, coolant level, speedo sender connections. The speedo connection (VSS) MUST be made to the ABZ harness, BEFORE going to the AEB connection. Without a valid VSS signal, your ABZ will be limited to 5200rpm, as it will go into safe mode with reduced power output.

[Nollywood]

32v abz hook up to its ecu (ME 7.1.1)

The ABZ ECU is not Bosch Motronic ME7. It's ME5.

[Britquattro]

The ECU will still need to be modified for the manual transmission. I think user "k0mpresd" has modified ABZ ECUs for others. You may want to PM him about getting the ECU ready.

Has anyone figured out how to get the CEL hooked up with a swap? Patient is an urq with a 1997 ABZ. Wondering if I need to gut an A8 cluster to get it to work? Do I just need the can wire to the dash and the cluster internals. I have searched all th forums and can't find any information. Thanks.

[bhusted]

My CEL works, but I'm running the ART/AWN 40v engine. On mine there was a pin on the ECU that went to the cluster for the CEL. No CAN wires required for the CEL to operate.

[wolfe2118]

Has anyone figured out how to get the CEL hooked up with a swap? Patient is an urq with a 1997 ABZ. Wondering if I need to gut an A8 cluster to get it to work? Do I just need the can wire to the dash and the cluster internals. I have searched all th forums and can't find any information. Thanks.

Who needs a CEL?? No, you don't need the A8 cluster at all. Connect the yellow C10 on your ecu to the yellow T10/10 on the body plug of the B5. You may need to get the brown plug from an A8 since the B5 doesn't have the same ECU plugs or you can just pull a unused pin from one of the ecu connecters and use it to slide directly over the C10 pin. That's what I did which reminds me that I need to get that brown plug so I'm not stranded if my tach signal falls out somehow.

[Britquattro]

Who needs a CEL?? No, you don't need the A8 cluster at all. Connect the yellow C10 on your ecu to the yellow T10/10 on the body plug of the B5. You may need to get the brown plug from an A8 since the B5 doesn't have the same ECU plugs or you can just pull a unused pin from one of the ecu connecters and use it to slide directly over the C10 pin. That's what I did which reminds me that I need to get that brown plug so I'm not stranded if my tach signal falls out somehow.

Patient is a a B3 not B5. So C10 is the important wire from the ABZ. Is this a ground control? It's not a 12v feed to trigger the CEL? Right. Thanks.

[wolfe2118]

Patient is a a B3 not B5. So C10 is the important wire from the ABZ. Is this a ground control? It's not a 12v feed to trigger the CEL? Right. Thanks.

Oh, sorry. I didn't catch that, I assumed it was a B5. I'm not sure what kind of signal it is that goes to the CEL.

[lorge1989]

i am in the process of swapping an abz into an audi 90 and having trouble finding a concrete way to bypass the immobilizer.

is there a part of the harness that i can send k, + and - into to bypass it or is the communication more complex than that?

EDIT: for the abz ecu is it possible to connect via OBD not in boot mode to reflash the EEPROM? if so what alterations would i be looking to make to the code?

Bumping this for more info. Currently in the process of swapping an ABZ into a B4. Let get more info in this thread!

[wolfe2118]

Bumping this for more info. Currently in the process of swapping an ABZ into a B4. Let get more info in this thread!

Don't waste your time trying to bypass the immobilizer. There has been some bad information going around for years now that you need a way to bypass it ant thats totally wrong. If anyone says otherwise, they are either trying to sell you something or simply was wrong. I have personally tried a ecu directly from the junkyard after my "altered" ecu developed a problem with a solder joint. The engine started exactly as is should have. The swap is very simple, put power to the ecu and ground it where it should be grounded and it WILL fire up. If it doesn't, you have your wiring wrong or your RPM sensor is in the wrong place.

[Jeremyboukaia]

Question I am swapping a 6speed in my 2001 Audi a8l 40v what clutch set up are you all running?! I have a 2004 all road clutch I put in my car and the clutch pedal feels like it no pedal until half way? I bolted the fly wheel on installed the clutch used the trans spacer. I am using a 01e tranny any help would be great! Thanks sorry is this is a old post


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[Nollywood]

Question I am swapping a 6speed in my 2001 Audi a8l 40v what clutch set up are you all running?! I have a 2004 all road clutch I put in my car and the clutch pedal feels like it no pedal until half way? I bolted the fly wheel on installed the clutch used the trans spacer. I am using a 01e tranny any help would be great! Thanks sorry is this is a old post

I have no idea what the combined stack height of the Allroad clutch and flywheel are. But...generally, the 077-series, belt-driven Audi V8 engines don't require a spacer, if an 01E tranny is used.

I've never used on any 077 V8, 32 or 40V.

[Jeremyboukaia]

I have no idea what the combined stack height of the Allroad clutch and flywheel are. But...generally, the 077-series, belt-driven Audi V8 engines don't require a spacer, if an 01E tranny is used.

I've never used on any 077 V8, 32 or 40V.

Thanks for the reply I would like to replace my clutch what would you recommend me using for my set up with no spacer.

When I bought the trans out of the allroad it came with the spacer


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[Nollywood]

^^^ Hang on, are you using an Allroad trans in an A8??

That'll be pretty noisy and revvy to drive.

[Jeremyboukaia]

Yes I am. But I am 95% sure it's a 4.11 final drive. Now you have me wondering I will get the trans code and rear diff code and check lol. Nice heads up!

[larson3ea00]

For those who are looking for information on the B5 ABZ swap. B5 wiring diagrams, A8(ABZ) wiring diagrams, random threads and pictures I've collected and coding info(still not complete). Feel free to add to this for all 4.2L engines.

http://jmp.sh/b/lWzjkfUkr9NVqzRyBHF0

Anyone else having issues opening the link? I'm having issues finding the vss wire and the k line wire..

[king84]

Anyone else having issues opening the link? I'm having issues finding the vss wire and the k line wire..

See my reply to your thread


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[WolfGanG13]

Late to those thread. But I had question to ask about the oil pan clearance? The difference between The 4.2abz and 3.7??? Is the oil pan slimmer on the 3.7 and will it fit the 4.2? Really don’t want to chop and weld my subframe to make ABZ fit. Or is there other ways?


Sent from my iPhone using Audizine