replacing wastegate lines: diy? or anything?

[Tumbler510]

I don't want to come off as smug or anything, but I don't get the fuss about this.
I changed out both sides by only dropping the sway bar, and it took me about 2 hours from jack to jack.

The hardest part is routing the hose exactly where you wanted it to go, especially on the passenger side.

[airjawed]

I don't want to come off as smug or anything, but I don't get the fuss about this.
I changed out both sides by only dropping the sway bar, and it took me about 2 hours from jack to jack.

The hardest part is routing the hose exactly where you wanted it to go, especially on the passenger side.

How did you do it? A little more detail please.

[Tumbler510]

How did you do it? A little more detail please.

I was using 1/4" silicon hose from McMaster.

Jack up car
Remove skid plate
Drop sway bar
Locate actuator fittings visually
Remove rubber hose from actuator using long thing (hand, screwdriver, crowbar)
Remove hose from Tee (top/behind engine)
Route replacement line from Tee down
Put hose clamp over end of line before attaching to actuator fitting
Fit hose over fitting using hands (will not be able to see what you're doing)
Secure clamp with screwdriver/nut driver/ratchet
Secure line at top using clamp
Secure line along route down with zip ties

Pretty straight forward.
Like most things on these cars, its a simple thing, but simple doesn't equal easy.

[airjawed]

I was using 1/4" silicon hose from McMaster.

Jack up car
Remove skid plate
Drop sway bar
Locate actuator fittings visually
Remove rubber hose from actuator using long thing (hand, screwdriver, crowbar)
Remove hose from Tee (top/behind engine)
Route replacement line from Tee down
Put hose clamp over end of line before attaching to actuator fitting
Fit hose over fitting using hands (will not be able to see what you're doing)
Secure clamp with screwdriver/nut driver/ratchet
Secure line at top using clamp
Secure line along route down with zip ties

Pretty straight forward.
Like most things on these cars, its a simple thing, but simple doesn't equal easy.

I removed original line that has hard sections with an entire piece. I thought about just using hose but I was concerned about hose being that close to the exhaust. I'm sure just using hose for the entire thing would be easier but like I said..... that is a lot of heat inches away.

Did you only remove sway bar at the frame or also at the wheels?

[RedB5S4]

I removed original line that has hard sections with an entire piece. I thought about just using hose but I was concerned about hose being that close to the exhaust. I'm sure just using hose for the entire thing would be easier but like I said..... that is a lot of heat inches away.

Did you only remove sway bar at the frame or also at the wheels?

The nice thing about replacing the entire line with silicon is that you can pretty much route it however you want. The factory lines are hardly in optimal locations to begin with... Yes it's a lot of heat inches but there's nothing saying that you can't avoid them if you pull out the hard lines. Same deal with the oil feeds. Route them around high(er) heat zones, problem solved.

[airjawed]

The nice thing about replacing the entire line with silicon is that you can pretty much route it however you want. The factory lines are hardly in optimal locations to begin with... Yes it's a lot of heat inches but there's nothing saying that you can't avoid them if you pull out the hard lines. Same deal with the oil feeds. Route them around high(er) heat zones, problem solved.

I definitely considered using hose and rerouting. I even thought about bringing it on the turbo intake side. In the end I replaced with one I found on ebay in good condition. In my case I think the original hose failed due to the FT's actuator nozzle being slightly off in position compared to stock. Also if valve cover gasket is leaking a little like mine then the oil eats the silicone. Anyway, keep us posted on how long it lasts.

[Tumbler510]

I removed original line that has hard sections with an entire piece. I thought about just using hose but I was concerned about hose being that close to the exhaust. I'm sure just using hose for the entire thing would be easier but like I said..... that is a lot of heat inches away.

Did you only remove sway bar at the frame or also at the wheels?

Yes, the swaybar was still connected at the wheels. I only unbolted the frame supports to let it hang down.
I used silicon hose with a high heat resistance and high pressure rating. I think the only way to 100% verify proper routing is to pull the motor. But i've done about an hour of driving wiht it, and no leaks or melted rubber smell, so I think it's ok for now.