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  1. #1
    Veteran Member Three Rings SN95Audi87's Avatar
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    Apr 26 2010
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    96 Mustang GT/2001 Audi 1.8T
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    P1103 Code

    Just got done finishing up an oil change for the winter, and I decided to reset my oil service light. I decided I wanted to clear my CEL light that had SAI code but as I was reading the fault, I scroll down to see another code. It was P1103, never seen this code before so I look it up. Its related to Oxygen sensor of some sort. My car has 142k on it so is time to replace it? The car has a stock airbox, and stock exhaust.
    01 1.8T | B6 Sport Wheels | Forge diverter valve | A8/TT Front Brakes/SS lines | 034 HFC & Milltek Resonated CB | APR TIP & Intake |

  2. #2
    Veteran Member Three Rings SN95Audi87's Avatar
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    Apr 26 2010
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    96 Mustang GT/2001 Audi 1.8T
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    North Jersey

    Anyone had this code before, and exactly know what it is? Primary, or secondary o2 sensor?
    01 1.8T | B6 Sport Wheels | Forge diverter valve | A8/TT Front Brakes/SS lines | 034 HFC & Milltek Resonated CB | APR TIP & Intake |

  3. #3
    Veteran Member Four Rings Seerlah's Avatar
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    Dec 05 2007
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    O2 sensors are recommended to be replaced every 100k. Even if they "seem" to run fine, they are not as effective in that old age. This can result in things like more fuel consumption, but not really noticed. Same thing with the MAF.

    That DTC is for the heating circuit of your primary o2 sensor. Your o2 sensor has a heating circuit on it that makes the sensor really hot once your ignition is turned on. It does this because your exhaust gases are very hot. Having hot gasses placed on a cold sensor will make it go bad in no time, so there is a heating element on it that warms it up (gets hot actually). This way hot exhaust gases are now hitting a hot sensor, prolonging longevity of the sensor.

    Delete the DTC and see if it comes back. This DTC can be a fluke many times.

    http://wiki.ross-tech.com/wiki/index...1/P1103/004355
    I hate it when my car acts like a little bitch, treating me like a bitch

  4. #4
    Veteran Member Four Rings thenj3's Avatar
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    Dec 25 2009
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    Mitch the heating is actually for open and closed loop. The faster it gets up to operating temperating the faster the ecu can take control of fueling. Clear the fault see if it comes back. It will only take three drive cycles
    2001 2.0l ct-5858 parting out- ringer racing, full race, comp turbo, maestro
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  5. #5
    Veteran Member Four Rings Seerlah's Avatar
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    Didn't know that. Thought it was for the longevity of the sensor. Then why to WB sensors also have heating elements?
    I hate it when my car acts like a little bitch, treating me like a bitch

  6. #6
    Veteran Member Four Rings thenj3's Avatar
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    Same reason the faster they get to temp the more accurate they are
    2001 2.0l ct-5858 parting out- ringer racing, full race, comp turbo, maestro
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  7. #7
    Veteran Member Four Rings Seerlah's Avatar
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    Thanks for the correction!
    I hate it when my car acts like a little bitch, treating me like a bitch

  8. #8
    Veteran Member Three Rings SN95Audi87's Avatar
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    Apr 26 2010
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    96 Mustang GT/2001 Audi 1.8T
    Location
    North Jersey

    Alright I will do that, and do another scan later.
    01 1.8T | B6 Sport Wheels | Forge diverter valve | A8/TT Front Brakes/SS lines | 034 HFC & Milltek Resonated CB | APR TIP & Intake |

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