B7 A4 Motor Mount install

[joseb]

I bought it as a CPO back in ‘08, it was in an accident before I bought it, but as it passed CPO it (hopefully) was just a small accident. Not many details on that though.

IMG_3526.JPG
IMG_3525.JPG

That’s how I was able to get it put in. Everything lined up and the motor mount is flush on both ends and nipple is in the correct hole.


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[AudiKilla]

I bought it as a CPO back in ‘08, it was in an accident before I bought it, but as it passed CPO it (hopefully) was just a small accident. Not many details on that though.

IMG_3526.JPG
IMG_3525.JPG

That’s how I was able to get it put in. Everything lined up and the motor mount is flush on both ends and nipple is in the correct hole.


Sent from my iPhone using Audizine

I am having the same problem, is the bracket suppose to be on top of the black subframe hole like in your pictures or under? I forgot how it was before I removed it.

[joseb]

I am having the same problem, is the bracket suppose to be on top of the black subframe hole like in your pictures or under? I forgot how it was before I removed it.

Everything I've seen in pictures has the bracket UNDER (closer to the road) the subframe hole. I can't for the life of me figure out why my bolts don't work in that orientation, though. I did notice that my sway bar doesn't seem to be seated like it should be and I hear some creaking occasionally from there. I'll be taking mine out again when it gets a bit warmer and trying again.

[Black Jack]

Hey guys - I just did this today. This should give you plenty of reference: https://youtu.be/O0OQEzcobMI?t=404

[mats16RCGTI]

Hi,

I did the right motor mount today. I was able to change it without untightening the bolts of the driver mount. I didn't remove the front mount and his support either. I just support the engine to be safe but without removing the driver and front mount the engine don't move a lot and it was easy to put back in place the 3 bolts of the support of the passenger mount.

I will put the airbox in place tomorrow and hope the next ride will be without vibrations.

[keenez]

Hoping someone can chime in here. I started this project today but wasn't able to finish.

I was able to complete the passenger-side mount (that top nut location can eat my poo). I took off the driver-side mount and put the new one in but I can't seem to get the two shorter bracket bolts threaded. From what I can tell, the dowel portion of the bolt goes in, but the washer bottoms out JUST before I can get a thread on. This is for both of the smaller bolts. The rear, long-bolt goes in without issue.

I looked in this thread for a reference picture of the bracket, it appears to be in the correct position, all the bolt holes line up and the flat surfaces are all flush, yet I still can't get the two bolts threaded.

Thanks to Jim for the original post.

I followed the instructions for installing 034 motor mounts on an Audi A4 B7 s- line. I tackled the driver's side first to get a sense of what was going on. As I was lowering the bolts on the bracket but things didn't seem to be lowering. I tried to get it as low as possible but I ended up removing the bracket and when that happened, the subframe dropped on the driver's side. I got another Jack and tried to lift the subframe high enough until I could get the bolts back in and use that to raise the subframe the rest of the way. I obviously replaced the mounts since the bracket was off anyway. I tightened the bolts until I felt some resistance.

I then tackled the passenger side. Undoing the bolts did lower the bracket to swap the motor mounts (I used a dremel to shorten the bolts on the mounts). I tightened the bolts back up for the bracket but on this side i never removed the bracket completely.

I then went to tighten up all the bolts. I discovered some of the bolts would tighten up completely and others, while meeting resistance, would allow me to keep spinning the bolt eventually and never really completely tighten. I ended up redoing both sides but I used a Jack to lift the subframe up until it met the other parts and then position the brackets and 3 bolts. This time, all 3 bolts would catch and I could completely tighten them. After doing this for both sides, I ended lifting the engine a bit for some reason and discovered I could tighten the bolts even more.

Hope this helps anybody who encountered this issue.

[texadelphia]

Anyone concern themselves with keeping the hole in the engine mount bracket (hole 3) aligned with the hole in the cross member (hole 2) when putting everything back together? The instructions say to keep holes 1, 2, and 3 aligned with that tool and that if you don't you need to get an alignment done. I did my mounts last night but just read this today (along with the correct torque specs which I had wrong. 2 front bolts are 55 ft-lb, and the long rear bolt is 81 ft-lbs + 90 degrees. All bolts are apparently one time use and should be replaced.). I tried to eyeball the alignment as best I could but I'm not sure I could get the tool in there.

[Silveravant]

To revive this helpful thread does anyone know if it is OK to replace the motor mounts while the car is lifted on ramps with the weight on the wheels? I have a jack and good stands but I prefer using my very sturdy ramps. Seems safer and easier.

Any help is appreciated.

[Timbert]

I replaced the passenger mount today with the car on ramps. On my 2007 A4 Quattro AT both sides have the electrical connector.

I used a cut-off 13mm box end ratchet on the top nut. I lifted the motor pretty far and got the old mount out just fine. But the new mount had longer stud on the bottom and was uncompressed and about 3/4 inch taller overall. I cut about 10mm off each end of the studs on the new one and still could not get it in, so I had to loosen the three 18 mm nuts on the bracket. Worked out fine.

Also, when you disconnect the snub, consider taking the three 13mm off the radiator bracket rather than the Allen bolts on the block/oil pan, because the radiator side is steel and the other aluminum. If something goes wrong or gets stripped, better to be working on the steel than the aluminum, plus you already have the 13mm wrench in your hand.

[Timbert]

Thanks.