B7 A4 Motor Mount install

[wesalexleft]

Getting ready to do engine mounts for my '09 A4 Quattro Cabrio 2.0T, and plan to drop the subframe brackets somewhat to aid in removing the engine mounts. It appears that the bolts for the brackets are TTY. I've found a few part numbers, but looks like not everyone carries every bolt. On each bracket for each side, I'm finding some conflicting info. Can you tell me how many bolts are on each bracket and size/length, and if there is a long bolt, and a short bolt, or if they're all the same length. I've found the following part numbers...N90956803 and N90663002. I'd like to have them on hand before I start replacing the mounts. Ive seen some threads that mention 3 bolts per side, some that mention two bolts per side, some that mention they're all the same, and others that mention differing lengths. The bolts aren't cheap, otherwise, I'd just order several of each.

thanks,

[pimpbot]

Great write up!!

I got the cheapo mounts off Amazon for like $25 each, plus another $9 for the stub mount. I'll report back on how they work.

My driver's side mount went super easy. I had to drop the bracket, which was no big deal.

The passenger side... OMFG. It took me like 45 minutes to remove the top nut.... and another 45 min to put it back on. I can't stress highly enough... do yourself a favor and get the stubby small ratcheting wrench. 1/16th turn, flip 13mm wrench over, 1/16th turn, flip 13mm wrench over. My hands are cramping.

Actually, I'm taking a break right now. I'm actually doing this in the shop at work. Job's not done yet. Ugh. My hands are torn up. I'm just sucking down a bowl of soup and an ice tea, then back to it. I'm gonna pound a couple beers when I get home.

2007 A4 Avant MT6

[pimpbot]

So reporting back after a month or so after installation.

The cheapo motor mounts work just fine! It's dead quiet at freeway speed. Sometimes I can feel a bit of vibration through the pedals at idle, but not bad. I get in my GF's Honda Civic and it makes me really appreciate the quiet smooth ride (and sporty, but not harsh, and not mushy) ride of the B7. Then again, I racked up 50k miles in the year and a half I've been with her. I tend to be the one driving on weekend road trips. Her '97 civic has 80k miles on it. We need to even things out.

But, I still have the mysterious clunk in the front end of my car. I replaced most of my control arms and tie rod ends, and nothing feels loose... so, I'm at a loss as to what it could possibly be. I guess I just need to put a wrench on every bolt in the front end.

[RandyQUATTRO]

Jim, I wanted to thank you for this DIY. I finally got around to replacing my mounts and went with 034 street density.




My mounts were shot and leaking.





On a 1-5 mechanical scale, I would say that I'm a 2. I really thought this might be beyond my skill level, but after reading (and re-reading and re-reading) this thread, I went for it. It took more hours than I would like to admit, but your DIY was really helpful. I completely removed the brackets, but still needed to jack-up the engine. I just couldn't get the mounts out. Raising the engine gave a couple of additional inches of clearance allowing me to pull off the mounts.

As a substitute to using a stubby wrench, I opted for a socket wrench with a pivoting head. This made getting to the passenger side upper mount bolt a bit easier.




While I was down there, I decided to replace my snub - however, my snub was no longer there (originally an APR). I guess it fell apart so I had been driving with zero snub. Now I know why shifting has been so strange. Glad this is done.

[jimrobbington]

Jim, I wanted to thank you for this DIY. I finally got around to replacing my mounts and went with 034 street density.




My mounts were shot and leaking.





On a 1-5 mechanical scale, I would say that I'm a 2. I really thought this might be beyond my skill level, but after reading (and re-reading and re-reading) this thread, I went for it. It took more hours than I would like to admit, but your DIY was really helpful. I completely removed the brackets, but still needed to jack-up the engine. I just couldn't get the mounts out. Raising the engine gave a couple of additional inches of clearance allowing me to pull off the mounts.

As a substitute to using a stubby wrench, I opted for a socket wrench with a pivoting head. This made getting to the passenger side upper mount bolt a bit easier.




While I was down there, I decided to replace my snub - however, my snub was no longer there (originally an APR). I guess it fell apart so I had been driving with zero snub. Now I know why shifting has been so strange. Glad this is done.

Lol, awesome man! I can't believe how shitty those apr snubs are. Jesus. Glad i could help though. I debated this one for a very long time, not sure if i was comfortable with the engine lifting, but it's not so bad, doable by most. Enjoy!

[Andrew149]

Took me 3 hours to do my motor mounts from 034. I dropped the bottom engine bracked to remove the mounts, also I did the 034 transmission mount which took about an hour and a half.

[034Motorsport]

I'm glad to hear everyone continues to be satisfied with these performance engine mount upgrades! I think these were one of the first mods I did on my B7 when I got it, and that was over 100,000 miles ago.

Feel free to contact us via PM or email if you ever have any questions about any of our products, or need help placing an order. We often have promo codes available that will get you an Audizine Forum Member Discount on many 034Motorsport products!

B7 Audi A4 Engine Mount Upgrade | Replaces 8E0199379BG & 8E0199382AJ



B7 Audi A4 Polyurethane Snub Mount Upgrade | Replaces 8E0199339

[jimrobbington]

I'm glad to hear everyone continues to be satisfied with these performance engine mount upgrades! I think these were one of the first mods I did on my B7 when I got it, and that was over 100,000 miles ago.

Feel free to contact us via PM or email if you ever have any questions about any of our products, or need help placing an order. We often have promo codes available that will get you an Audizine Forum Member Discount on many 034Motorsport products!

B7 Audi A4 Engine Mount Upgrade | Replaces 8E0199379BG & 8E0199382AJ



B7 Audi A4 Polyurethane Snub Mount Upgrade | Replaces 8E0199339

It's true! Laszlo gave me 10% off just got asking! Always had a great experience with these guys!

[SLYCAT]

Thanks jimrobbington, I had a leaky passenger side motor mount and some free time today. Only issue I had was, when I dropped the passenger side bracket the sub-frame lowered also. Just had to jack to the sub-frame back up and tighten down the 19mm bolt. GTG.

[snappytom]

More thanks to jimrobbington and all other contributors to this DIY.
Got this job done yesterday and as an average weekend wrencher it took me about 4 hours. Thanks to all the info here there were no surprises or glitches and a few "Oh ... I get it " moments.
Have had my B7 for 5 months which has 115k on it, I assume the mounts were original. Passenger side shot having leaked the fluid out and at idle there was a noticeable shake.
Replaced with 034 street density mounts and one of their snub mounts. The difference in the feel and responsiveness of the car is dramatic ... should have done this months ago.

[M0E7]

Replaced mine last night with 034 Street Density mounts; short brain dump here. Took just under 2 hours for me.

My process: Remove all 4 mount bolts, unbolt snub mount bracket, lift engine until mounts were clear, remove/replace.

-Most of my time was spent removing the top bolt on the passenger-side mount, as my stubby 13mm wrench was non-ratcheting. I would recommend picking up a ratcheting, flex head, stubby 13mm wrench to speed up this process.
-I did not have to remove my sway bar mounts or subframe bolts (although I was fully prepared to); was able to clear the mounts by simply raising the engine.

My old, 120k mounts were ~1/4-1/2" shorter than the new mounts. Replacing them has greatly improved the driveability. I do notice some increased vibration at idle, but seeing how worn my previous mounts were this is no surprise. I will go back and adjust everything once again in a week.

[mprivi]

Replaced mine last night with 034 Street Density mounts; short brain dump here. Took just under 2 hours for me.

My process: Remove all 4 mount bolts, unbolt snub mount bracket, lift engine until mounts were clear, remove/replace.

-Most of my time was spent removing the top bolt on the passenger-side mount, as my stubby 13mm wrench was non-ratcheting. I would recommend picking up a ratcheting, flex head, stubby 13mm wrench to speed up this process.
-I did not have to remove my sway bar mounts or subframe bolts (although I was fully prepared to); was able to clear the mounts by simply raising the engine.

My old, 120k mounts were ~1/4-1/2" shorter than the new mounts. Replacing them has greatly improved the driveability. I do notice some increased vibration at idle, but seeing how worn my previous mounts were this is no surprise. I will go back and adjust everything once again in a week.

About how much did you raise the engine?

[M0E7]

About how much did you raise the engine?

I am guessing about 3-4"; ended up being the combined length of the studs on each side of the mount.

[snappytom]

I am guessing about 3-4"; ended up being the combined length of the studs on each side of the mount.

I raised my engine probably around 2" in total, probably could have gotten the job done in half the time by raising it more. Having never done an engine mount job I was concerned about all the connections (hoses, cables, wires, etc..) and did not want to break anything by lifting too high. A small bit of lift and loosening the brackets underneath until the mounts came clear seemed more conservative at the time I was doing it. Apparently the engine and attached systems have good tolerance for vertical movement.

[mprivi]

Thanks guys I plan on tackling this myself but never did mounts. Was going to go the remove sway bay and brackets route with the jack to hold the engine from falling


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[MacFady]

Just another little tip that may make it easier for some people to pull out the mounts - take a cut off blade and rotary tool and cut off the excess bolt length. Same can be said for the ones going in.

[jimrobbington]

Just another little tip that may make it easier for some people to pull out the mounts - take a cut off blade and rotary tool and cut off the excess bolt length. Same can be said for the ones going in.

Lol, good point. Never made sense why they need to be like 3" long. Lol.

[Avant4me]

I just finished mine. About an hour to complete.
034M Street density

1) yes cut the extra 1/2" off the new 034 mount studs it might be easier (I didn't but didn't really impact me

2) used standard length 13mm ratcheting flex head..super easy
Bent the heat shield up. I finished removing it the last 10% of removing the passenger side nut after jacking the motor up to reduce how high off the mount and hidden it was.

3) dropped the swaybar and mounts just because they are so easy to lose them out of the way.

4) jacked up my motor about 2" after I loosened the mounts

5) ALL three of my mount bolts were 18mm

[malone1284]

Thanks for the write-up Jim, this really helped! I just completed this job over the weekend. Replaced trashed/leaking OEM mounts with 034motorsports street density mounts. Just a few comments from my experience, which will hopefully help those looking to tackle this.

I decided before starting that I was going to completely remove the brackets instead of just loosening them. If you go this route, no need to loosen/remove the snub mount or jack up the engine, though I did still place a jack under the engine and raised it just to the point of supporting the engine.

Removed (2) 13mm nuts on top of both engine mounts. In regards to the passenger side access, I did not have a stubby ratcheting wrench. I found a set of 4 metric standard length ratcheting wrenches for $9.99 locally at an Ace Hardware, and cut the 13mm wrench down to about 4 inches. For that price I didn’t lose any sleep cutting one of them down…

Removed (4) 13mm nuts holding the sway bar to the brackets, swung sway bar down out of the way a couple inches.

From here, you only want to work on one side at a time. Removed the 13mm nut on the bottom of the motor mount. All of the bolts holding the bracket on were 18mm in my case. The 2 toward the front of the car loosened easily, but the one towards the rear was on there good. Out of laziness, I used a 3/8ths breaker bar on the rear nut, since my ½ breaker was in the basement, and I almost rounded the bolt off. Luckily I was still able to get it off with the ½ breaker…don’t be the ‘3/8ths me’, grab your ½ breaker.

When I removed the bolts holding the bracket from the passenger side, my sub-frame dropped on the passenger side a couple of inches (wish I would have seen SLYCAT’s mention of this in post #46 before)…not sure if this is normal, or points to some other issue. Installed new mount, ensuring nipple on bottom came out same hole the previous mount was. When I went to re-install the 18mm bolts, they would not line up, and on top of that, they were a couple inches shy of being able to engage the threads on the frame. I put a jack under the passenger side of the sub-frame, and jacked it up a couple inches. This allowed the bolts to line up and actually reach the holes. Tightened bracket bolts down completely. Loosely threaded on both the upper and lower 13mm nuts.

Repeated process for the driver side. The only thing I did differently for the driver side was I put a jack under the sub-frame on the driver side before removing the bracket, and raised it just to the point of engaging.

Moved sway bar back in place, and fully tightened (4) 13mm nuts holding sway bar to brackets.

Took for a drive around the block, raised car again, fully tightened down (4) 13mm nuts on top and bottom of both motor mounts.

I have a tiptronic, so there is a sensor on the driver side mount…I decided to see if it would throw a code without the error canceller/resistor bypass that 034 sells before I purchased one. Mine did not throw a code, so I just used zip ties to secure the sensor up.

[marcink99]

I managed to remove both mounts by not removing brackets just lifting the engine up. In order to do it you need to slide your stub mount of the bolts otherwise it will not go high enough.

[Tsinsta93]

Thanks for the write-up Jim, just did this job today. It went smoothly using the approach of dropping those brackets. As others have said, all of my bracket bolts were just 18mm. This cured my trouble shifting into 1 and 2 so far, but not the crazy vibrations that prompted me to do them. It appears my exhaust has decided to rest on the crossmember under the cabin, so i guess i will be going after that next!

[wesalexleft]

I'm just starting this project as well, and have a question or two about dropping the brackets. From seeing a few threads, some people say you can mess up the alignment by dropping the brackets, while others don't mention that possibility. I have new bolts to replace the TTY bolts underneath, but don't want to mess with the alignment if at all possible. I'm planning on trying a full motor lift first, but will resort to dropping the brackets if needed. If the rear bolt (to subframe) is loosened, but not removed, can the alignment be altered? I've also seen some references saying that you can possibly strip the threads in the body by re-torquing new TTY bolts to the bracket/subframe...any worries there?
***Update*** I finished last night and I can't believe I put this off as long as I did. I started t 6PM and was done by 9PM, including a break for dinner. I removed the belly pan and lower mount nuts first, then raised the motor enough to disengage the lower mount studs. Raising the motor gave me easier access to the passenger side mount's upper nut. I removed the top nuts quickly, and swapped the mounts. It took a few tries to get the passenger top nut started, not being able to see the stud, and having nag to use two fingers to place and spin the nut, but about 10 minutes, and it was done. There were no issues raising the motor for me, although it's always nerve-wracking. The motor did get very snug against the firewall as it was raised, but had enough room apparently. I'll change the oil tonight should nice the pan is off, and call two projects done.

[hemantpd1]

Great DIY!

I changed both the motor mounts and snub with OEM. This thread was a big help to do the job. Following youtube link was also very useful even if it is not exactly for Audi A4 B7.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vCZNzS3hCXU

[master trojan]

Took forever to get to it but took me about 2 hours not including the run to the store to get a raised 13mm wratchet wrench to do the passenger side. One trick I used to get the mount in was remove driver side mount and pull the engine over to the driver's side to get the long freaking 034 mounnt screws to fit into the brackets for the passenger side.

Now with the mounts being taller than the stock ones and a larger snub mount also 034, I could barely get snub mount into the adjustable bracket. Now the snub mount is pushed up against it. My car feels like a freaking vibrator between 950 and 1800 rpms. It's nice once you up to speed but low rpms it's feel like a 98 civic on lowered springs.

Any ideas welcome.

[pimpbot]

Took forever to get to it but took me about 2 hours not including the run to the store to get a raised 13mm wratchet wrench to do the passenger side. One trick I used to get the mount in was remove driver side mount and pull the engine over to the driver's side to get the long freaking 034 mounnt screws to fit into the brackets for the passenger side.

Now with the mounts being taller than the stock ones and a larger snub mount also 034, I could barely get snub mount into the adjustable bracket. Now the snub mount is pushed up against it. My car feels like a freaking vibrator between 950 and 1800 rpms. It's nice once you up to speed but low rpms it's feel like a 98 civic on lowered springs.

Any ideas welcome.

Obviously, you got some pressure on something. I might say try taking out the aftermarket snub mount and putting the stock one back in. Seems to me that one is like a 5 minute job once you jack the car up and drop the belly pan.... okay, half an hour job. Easy enough to do to isolate the issue, tho. Basically, it should fit the cup with no twist or pressure on it.

[master trojan]

I will give that a try followed if that does not help new OEM engine mounts.

[Spridle]

Thanks for this. Saved me some time last night, although it may have saved me more time had I read all the way through. I was just replacing the driver side mount as it's throwing a code for the solenoid. But in doing so I can see the snub mount is disintegrating and the passenger is collapsed. I expect those to go pretty quick as it only took about 1/2 an hour to do the driver side.

[fallingreason]

Replacing mine this weekend. I have done this twice on a B6 1.8T, but first time on a B7 2.0T. I have a wratcheting 13mm handy.

What I am wondering is, will the engine be able to be jacked up higher with the trans mount removed? I am doing this the same day and wondering if with the transmission free from the crossmember the engine will lift easier, so I don't have to touch the brackets/subframe.

Didn't have to do anything with the brackets or subframe on the B6's and it was a 1 hour job.

[67Twisty]

Replacing mine this weekend. I have done this twice on a B6 1.8T, but first time on a B7 2.0T. I have a wratcheting 13mm handy.

What I am wondering is, will the engine be able to be jacked up higher with the trans mount removed? I am doing this the same day and wondering if with the transmission free from the crossmember the engine will lift easier, so I don't have to touch the brackets/subframe.

Didn't have to do anything with the brackets or subframe on the B6's and it was a 1 hour job.

Don't think so. You don't want to lift it too high or you risk breaking items at the rear of the head/firewall (like vacuum pump, HPFP, plastic coolant flange, etc.).

[fallingreason]

Don't think so. You don't want to lift it too high or you risk breaking items at the rear of the head/firewall (like vacuum pump, HPFP, plastic coolant flange, etc.).

You sure? Isn’t the Trans mount point what causes the engine to start tilting backwards towards the cabin rather than keep going upwards? If the transmission is free I’d think it would have more ability to rise vertically.


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[marlboro]

You sure? Isn’t the Trans mount point what causes the engine to start tilting backwards towards the cabin rather than keep going upwards? If the transmission is free I’d think it would have more ability to rise vertically.


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It’s not the transmission mount which restricts the movement. When you lift too much, the back of the vacuum pump pushes against the firewall. However, I was able to cut a bit from the new mount stud and install it without touching the crossmember.

[67Twisty]

I'm not sure and it's been a number of years since I put in new mounts (034 street density) so maybe someone has developed a better method. You could try it, but there's not a lot of clearance between the bell housing and the firewall to begin with. Unless you're completely unbolting the tranny, the engine is still going to pivot up and tilt rearward. Maybe the angle is less severe if you first unbolt the crossmember...it's only four bolts so you could try it. I would place a tranny cradle or second jack there for added support just in case.

[lumberwood]

This is a great thread for this job. Thank you OP and all who added some more meat (perspectives). Anyone have the torque specs for the motor mount bracket bolts? Especially concerned with the longest bolt passing through the subframe.
Thanks!

- Corey

[All_Black_A4]

This is a great thread for this job. Thank you OP and all who added some more meat (perspectives). Anyone have the torque specs for the motor mount bracket bolts? Especially concerned with the longest bolt passing through the subframe.
Thanks!

- Corey

I believe it's 110 Nm + 1/4 turn (81.136 Ft lbs) for the longer bolts and 75 Nm (55.32 ft lbs) for the shorter bolts. I don't have my Bentley manual in front of me but I remember reading it somewhere.

[TheChenga]

Good DIY still to this day OP!

[DownhillA4]

Will be tackling this job in the coming days, thanks for the write-up, tips and photos for guidance.

[joseb]

Hoping someone can chime in here. I started this project today but wasn't able to finish.

I was able to complete the passenger-side mount (that top nut location can eat my poo). I took off the driver-side mount and put the new one in but I can't seem to get the two shorter bracket bolts threaded. From what I can tell, the dowel portion of the bolt goes in, but the washer bottoms out JUST before I can get a thread on. This is for both of the smaller bolts. The rear, long-bolt goes in without issue.

I looked in this thread for a reference picture of the bracket, it appears to be in the correct position, all the bolt holes line up and the flat surfaces are all flush, yet I still can't get the two bolts threaded.

[fallingreason]

Hoping someone can chime in here. I started this project today but wasn't able to finish.

I was able to complete the passenger-side mount (that top nut location can eat my poo). I took off the driver-side mount and put the new one in but I can't seem to get the two shorter bracket bolts threaded. From what I can tell, the dowel portion of the bolt goes in, but the washer bottoms out JUST before I can get a thread on. This is for both of the smaller bolts. The rear, long-bolt goes in without issue.

I looked in this thread for a reference picture of the bracket, it appears to be in the correct position, all the bolt holes line up and the flat surfaces are all flush, yet I still can't get the two bolts threaded.

Your mount is likely not centered correctly in the bracket. If the little nuns are shifted over one the subframe bracket will not align correctly and you will either strip the bolts or not be able to thread them.

[joseb]

Your mount is likely not centered correctly in the bracket. If the little nuns are shifted over one the subframe bracket will not align correctly and you will either strip the bolts or not be able to thread them.

I went back and tried again, this time removing the mount completely and I still couldn't get the two smaller bolts to thread. I removed the bracket and tried the bolts on their own and they thread just fine, so I don't think the threads in the hole or on the bolt are bad. They might have been damaged in the hole, but they look OK from what I can see.

The only way I was able to get them threaded was to have that "finger" on the bracket (forward of the two holes for the smaller bolts) above the black part of the subframe. Stupid me didn't pay attention to how this was all arranged before I took it apart, but the black part looks like it has some wear on the low side so maybe that's how it's supposed to go?

[fallingreason]

I went back and tried again, this time removing the mount completely and I still couldn't get the two smaller bolts to thread. I removed the bracket and tried the bolts on their own and they thread just fine, so I don't think the threads in the hole or on the bolt are bad. They might have been damaged in the hole, but they look OK from what I can see.

The only way I was able to get them threaded was to have that "finger" on the bracket (forward of the two holes for the smaller bolts) above the black part of the subframe. Stupid me didn't pay attention to how this was all arranged before I took it apart, but the black part looks like it has some wear on the low side so maybe that's how it's supposed to go?

The black part is your subframe, it really should not have wear or contact the bracket except where they fasten.

Was your car ever in an accident or damaged in some way?