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  1. #12721
    Established Member Three Rings
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    anyone have a good DIY on removing the splash guard and what tools are needs so i can see whats going on underneath the car? much help appriciated!

  2. #12722
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    $6,200 USD and they claim you cant lose money on the deal?

    Quote Originally Posted by klrider44 View Post
    The job is not all that difficult, but it really depends if the poly bolt comes out or not. Some are notorious for having to be drilled out which would then mean the cams need to come out.


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  3. #12723
    Veteran Member Four Rings canadianA4B7's Avatar
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    Feb 10 2012
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    Quote Originally Posted by klrider44 View Post
    Where can I purchase an RS4 low pressure fuel controller???


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    They are now being made through a distributor in China.

  4. #12724
    Veteran Member Four Rings mcpcartier's Avatar
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    Oct 14 2011
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    My Garage
    08 xB, 13 Ex, 16 Civic EX
    Location
    SoCal

    Did a quick search but at work so no time to dig in....throwing out what I'm seeing to get some gut feel responses.

    Changed thermostat 5000 miles ago....have done a trip to Vegas in March...no problems. Just driving back from Vegas again and 40 miles from Orange County my coolant warning goes on. I thought it was low coolant so pulled over and check. Full? Fire it up and notice that temperature is close to passing 3/4 mark. Have never seen that before. Let her cool down and fire her up....fans are spinning, temp goes to 1/2 mark. All looks fine. So I drive the final 40 miles.

    During that drive the temperature fluctuated between the 1/2 and the 3/4 mark?? Temperature warning never came on. I was in a combination of bumper to bumper and cruising at 80 mph. No rhyme or reason for where it was.....higher temp when cruising at 80 than in stop and go????

    I've ripped most of this thing apart at various times...but the cooling system (sensors, controlers, etc...) is not my thing.

    Does this sound like the fan controller ($300'ish) for fans themselves?

    I'll do some digging later to figure out how to play with vagcom and test the fans but was curious if the behavior points to either of those....or something else.
    2007 2.0T Q 6MT, S-Line, Ti Package, BB
    Revo Stage 2 | JHM Stage 1 Clutch | K&N Drop in | APR HPFP | 034 HFC | AWE Catback | 034 SD Tranny & Motor Mounts | Neuspeed Snub | H&R Sport Springs | Bilsteins | Moog ACA | B5 Perches (removed) | RS4 RSB | ABT Drilled n Slotted Rotors | Redstuff Front & Akebono Rear | Podi Stepper Boost Gauge | Recaro's | H&R Spacers 15f/20r | Clear Corners w/Blackout | Smoked Frt Markers | Cupra R Lip | 20% Tint

  5. #12725
    Senior Member Three Rings klrider44's Avatar
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    Aug 20 2014
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    Doylestown PA

    Quote Originally Posted by canadianA4B7 View Post
    They are now being made through a distributor in China.
    How can I get a hold of one? Impossible to find...


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  6. #12726
    Established Member Four Rings
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    New Hampshire

    Quote Originally Posted by ahotboy15 View Post
    anyone have a good DIY on removing the splash guard and what tools are needs so i can see whats going on underneath the car? much help appriciated!
    Jack car up, look at shield, look at bolts, pick tool that looks like bolts, remove bolts, remove shield.

  7. #12727
    Established Member Four Rings pezgoon's Avatar
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    new hampshire

    Quote Originally Posted by mcpcartier View Post
    Did a quick search but at work so no time to dig in....throwing out what I'm seeing to get some gut feel responses.

    Changed thermostat 5000 miles ago....have done a trip to Vegas in March...no problems. Just driving back from Vegas again and 40 miles from Orange County my coolant warning goes on. I thought it was low coolant so pulled over and check. Full? Fire it up and notice that temperature is close to passing 3/4 mark. Have never seen that before. Let her cool down and fire her up....fans are spinning, temp goes to 1/2 mark. All looks fine. So I drive the final 40 miles.

    During that drive the temperature fluctuated between the 1/2 and the 3/4 mark?? Temperature warning never came on. I was in a combination of bumper to bumper and cruising at 80 mph. No rhyme or reason for where it was.....higher temp when cruising at 80 than in stop and go????

    I've ripped most of this thing apart at various times...but the cooling system (sensors, controlers, etc...) is not my thing.

    Does this sound like the fan controller ($300'ish) for fans themselves?

    I'll do some digging later to figure out how to play with vagcom and test the fans but was curious if the behavior points to either of those....or something else.
    Did you properly bleed the system? Maybe you just have an air bubble and itís now just showing itself


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    Eric

    2005.5 6mt A4 2.0(red T ) Silver metallic outside, Platinum inside.

  8. #12728
    Established Member Four Rings
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    People seem to have a lot of trouble bleeding these cars. The trick is to bleed from the bleeder screw first til coolant shoots straight out and then bleed from the heater core hose. You gotta bleed them from the motor and then the heater core.

    Another thing people donít seem to realize is that the coolant reservoir NEEDS to be the highest point of the system when bleeding. If itís still attached to itís bracket, remove the screw and elevate the reservoir above everything while bleeding. If you donít it wonít be high enough to do an effective gravity bleed.

  9. #12729
    Veteran Member Three Rings a4lownslow's Avatar
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    Feb 12 2014
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    2007 Audi A4 2.0T
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    Quote Originally Posted by EvolutionArmory View Post
    People seem to have a lot of trouble bleeding these cars. The trick is to bleed from the bleeder screw first til coolant shoots straight out and then bleed from the heater core hose. You gotta bleed them from the motor and then the heater core.

    Another thing people donít seem to realize is that the coolant reservoir NEEDS to be the highest point of the system when bleeding. If itís still attached to itís bracket, remove the screw and elevate the reservoir above everything while bleeding. If you donít it wonít be high enough to do an effective gravity bleed.

    None of thatís necessary. If the cooling system Is
    working properly itís as simple as adding coolant to the reservoir and running the car. It will draw in coolant and air will get trapped in the reservoir, which Is then released when the cap is removed. Top it off and top to go.

    That method has never failed me in the past 6 years or so Iíve been working on these cars. Probably done it that way on 50 plus cars. Only time it wonít work is if something else in the system is at fault.

    Whether using my vacuum bleeder or simply adding coolant to the reservoir result is the same, no issues.




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  10. #12730
    Established Member Four Rings
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    If that were the case, nobody would have trouble bleeding these cars ever. Yet itís a very common topic of discussion.

    If the coolant res is elevated and you bleed in 2 stages, youíll definitely get a good gravity bleed. If your way works for you, roll with it but you arenít the guy asking for help. It obviously isnít working as good for him as it does for you 😀

  11. #12731
    Veteran Member Four Rings mcpcartier's Avatar
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    Oct 14 2011
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    08 xB, 13 Ex, 16 Civic EX
    Location
    SoCal

    Quote Originally Posted by mcpcartier View Post
    Did a quick search but at work so no time to dig in....throwing out what I'm seeing to get some gut feel responses.

    Changed thermostat 5000 miles ago....have done a trip to Vegas in March...no problems. Just driving back from Vegas again and 40 miles from Orange County my coolant warning goes on. I thought it was low coolant so pulled over and check. Full? Fire it up and notice that temperature is close to passing 3/4 mark. Have never seen that before. Let her cool down and fire her up....fans are spinning, temp goes to 1/2 mark. All looks fine. So I drive the final 40 miles.

    During that drive the temperature fluctuated between the 1/2 and the 3/4 mark?? Temperature warning never came on. I was in a combination of bumper to bumper and cruising at 80 mph. No rhyme or reason for where it was.....higher temp when cruising at 80 than in stop and go????

    I've ripped most of this thing apart at various times...but the cooling system (sensors, controlers, etc...) is not my thing.

    Does this sound like the fan controller ($300'ish) for fans themselves?

    I'll do some digging later to figure out how to play with vagcom and test the fans but was curious if the behavior points to either of those....or something else.
    Quote Originally Posted by pezgoon View Post
    Did you properly bleed the system? Maybe you just have an air bubble and itís now just showing itself


    Sent from my iPhone using Audizine
    Quote Originally Posted by EvolutionArmory View Post
    People seem to have a lot of trouble bleeding these cars. The trick is to bleed from the bleeder screw first til coolant shoots straight out and then bleed from the heater core hose. You gotta bleed them from the motor and then the heater core.

    Another thing people donít seem to realize is that the coolant reservoir NEEDS to be the highest point of the system when bleeding. If itís still attached to itís bracket, remove the screw and elevate the reservoir above everything while bleeding. If you donít it wonít be high enough to do an effective gravity bleed.
    A little more info....

    Went to head home after work last night....about 9 hours of sitting...fired her up and temperature gauge went immediately to the midpoint? As I drove home (25 miles fwy driving on a friday....meaning some bumper to bumper stop and go) the gauge fluctuated between the 1/2 and 3/4 point.

    Don't trust the temperature reading....new CTS is in order to see if that is the culprit.

    Heading to get a CTS this AM and...figured I'd check the connector to see if anything was up. Feels like the coolant flange is seeping again (this will be my third change)...oh yeah. Fired her up and the temperature gauge immediately went to the 1/4 mark (more reason to doubt the CTS...it should be sending cold resistance) and went to just above the 1/2 mark during my errands (picking up a new CTS).

    I did burp it while at Kragen....not sure where the bleeder is for the heater core. It may be the CTS is not immersed due to improper bleeding.

    Either way....I'm going to change the CTS once the engine cools (after the leafs game) and see if anything changes. Will go from there.
    2007 2.0T Q 6MT, S-Line, Ti Package, BB
    Revo Stage 2 | JHM Stage 1 Clutch | K&N Drop in | APR HPFP | 034 HFC | AWE Catback | 034 SD Tranny & Motor Mounts | Neuspeed Snub | H&R Sport Springs | Bilsteins | Moog ACA | B5 Perches (removed) | RS4 RSB | ABT Drilled n Slotted Rotors | Redstuff Front & Akebono Rear | Podi Stepper Boost Gauge | Recaro's | H&R Spacers 15f/20r | Clear Corners w/Blackout | Smoked Frt Markers | Cupra R Lip | 20% Tint

  12. #12732
    Established Member Four Rings pezgoon's Avatar
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    new hampshire

    Quote Originally Posted by mcpcartier View Post
    A little more info....

    Went to head home after work last night....about 9 hours of sitting...fired her up and temperature gauge went immediately to the midpoint? As I drove home (25 miles fwy driving on a friday....meaning some bumper to bumper stop and go) the gauge fluctuated between the 1/2 and 3/4 point.

    Don't trust the temperature reading....new CTS is in order to see if that is the culprit.

    Heading to get a CTS this AM and...figured I'd check the connector to see if anything was up. Feels like the coolant flange is seeping again (this will be my third change)...oh yeah. Fired her up and the temperature gauge immediately went to the 1/4 mark (more reason to doubt the CTS...it should be sending cold resistance) and went to just above the 1/2 mark during my errands (picking up a new CTS).

    I did burp it while at Kragen....not sure where the bleeder is for the heater core. It may be the CTS is not immersed due to improper bleeding.

    Either way....I'm going to change the CTS once the engine cools (after the leafs game) and see if anything changes. Will go from there.
    He meant disconnect the hose

    Proper way is to put the front on ramps, clamp off the top? Hose from the resovior and undo the bleeder screw, you are supposed to squeeze the large hose that leads to the top of the radiator with your finger off (to push air out) then cover it with your finger and release the hose, do this till thereís no more air, once thatís done run it with the heat on full and keep doing it? Honestly I canít remember exactly but you are supposed to run it with it still on the ramps, then put the bleeder back in and go driving let it cool down and do it over again

    Full procedure is in the diy section, that diy has worked flawlessly for everyone so I suggest it

    You can do the heater hose removal method but you may test the hose trying to disconnect it so I advise against it if your flange is leaking maybe itís letting air into the system

    Also thereís two CTSís


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    Eric

    2005.5 6mt A4 2.0(red T ) Silver metallic outside, Platinum inside.

  13. #12733
    Established Member Four Rings
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    New Hampshire

    A CTS could quite possibly be the solution. If thereís no code stored in the ECU, check for a code for it in instrument cluster too. It can pop up there as well.

    Being that the gauge reads at a 1/4 when you turned it on cold, itís probably electrical and not an air bubble.

    If you end up changing the CTS try bleeding the car my way after. Raising the coolant res above everything creates more hydrostatic pressure, similar to how water towers pressurize your pipes. The higher the water source is, the more pressure there is because science. 😀

  14. #12734
    Veteran Member Four Rings canadianA4B7's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by klrider44 View Post
    How can I get a hold of one? Impossible to find...


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    BKS tuning Germany has them.

    Thereís also a number of dealers which I have contacted about these. Contact below was able to fill the order. I believe you can order the part direct through the Jim Ellis web site.

    Audi fuel control module part #8E0906071B

    Todd Fillingim
    Parts Consultant
    Jim Ellis Audi Atlanta Parts
    5849B Peachtree Road
    Atlanta, GA 30341

    770-454-5951 (parts dept)
    678-547-0984 (fax)

    www.audiatlantaparts.com

  15. #12735
    Veteran Member Three Rings a4lownslow's Avatar
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    Feb 12 2014
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    2007 Audi A4 2.0T
    Location
    Hudson WI

    Quote Originally Posted by EvolutionArmory View Post
    If that were the case, nobody would have trouble bleeding these cars ever. Yet itís a very common topic of discussion.

    If the coolant res is elevated and you bleed in 2 stages, youíll definitely get a good gravity bleed. If your way works for you, roll with it but you arenít the guy asking for help. It obviously isnít working as good for him as it does for you

    I think it comes back to what I initially said, thereís an underlying issue with the cooling system not necessarily related to how it was filled or bled.

    I know when I first started working on these cars I would greatly overthink the whole process (which is probably common for someone who doesnít wrench on these cars regularly) but really nothing special is needed. Iím willing to bet the guy asking for help has other issues not related to how he refilled the coolant. Weíll see


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  16. #12736
    Senior Member Three Rings wjg22's Avatar
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    Apr 14 2016
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    '01 Monster 750
    Location
    Pittsburgh

    Noticed some clunking during low speed turns, ran my hand over the inner CV boot and it's covered in grease. What's the general consensus from DIYers, replace the boot or whole axle?

  17. #12737
    Established Member Three Rings funkypterodacty's Avatar
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    Los Angeles

    Replacing the entire axle is less hassle but more money than just repacking it and buying a new boot and clamp, though most aftermarket axles don't really have the best reputation for longevity or strength.

  18. #12738
    Established Member Four Rings
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    Quote Originally Posted by a4lownslow View Post
    I think it comes back to what I initially said, thereís an underlying issue with the cooling system not necessarily related to how it was filled or bled.

    I know when I first started working on these cars I would greatly overthink the whole process (which is probably common for someone who doesnít wrench on these cars regularly) but really nothing special is needed. Iím willing to bet the guy asking for help has other issues not related to how he refilled the coolant. Weíll see


    Sent from my iPhone using Audizine
    Wrenching on Audiís is nothing new for me. I was an Audi tech when the B7 was new 😀

    The topic of bleeding the system is what we were talking about and eliminating the possibility of air in the system is step one when you have erratic temp gauge movement and no codes. I wasnít trying to diagnose his car. Just point out that raising the coolant bottle and bleeding in 2 stages is the most effective way to ensure success. And I absolutely wouldnít call lifting the coolant res anything ďspecialĒ. Itís just a fact that the coolant system will bleed much more efficiently with the coolant bottle being raised above the heater core hoses and the hard coolant pipe because science and shit. The higher bottle creates more hydrostatic pressure. And hydrostatic pressure is what bleeds the system. 😀

  19. #12739
    Senior Member Three Rings Low and Behold's Avatar
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    Rip City

    Quote Originally Posted by EvolutionArmory View Post
    because science and shit.
    Casey | @cshore

  20. #12740
    Senior Member Three Rings tloft4's Avatar
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    luckily hydrostatic pressure is very simple to understand, but fuck yeah, science

  21. #12741
    Established Member Four Rings pezgoon's Avatar
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    🤣 this was what I needed to read all hungover and shit

    Fuck yeah science for the win!


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    Eric

    2005.5 6mt A4 2.0(red T ) Silver metallic outside, Platinum inside.

  22. #12742
    Veteran Member Three Rings a4lownslow's Avatar
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    Feb 12 2014
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    2007 Audi A4 2.0T
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    Hudson WI

    Quote Originally Posted by EvolutionArmory View Post
    Wrenching on Audiís is nothing new for me. I was an Audi tech when the B7 was new

    The topic of bleeding the system is what we were talking about and eliminating the possibility of air in the system is step one when you have erratic temp gauge movement and no codes. I wasnít trying to diagnose his car. Just point out that raising the coolant bottle and bleeding in 2 stages is the most effective way to ensure success. And I absolutely wouldnít call lifting the coolant res anything ďspecialĒ. Itís just a fact that the coolant system will bleed much more efficiently with the coolant bottle being raised above the heater core hoses and the hard coolant pipe because science and shit. The higher bottle creates more hydrostatic pressure. And hydrostatic pressure is what bleeds the system.
    I wasnít implying you were new to Wrenching on Audiís, rather the person who is topic of discussion may have less experience than say you or I.

    Iím also not disagreeing with your ďscience and shitĒ thats basic physics I recall learning back in grade 6 or something like that lol. Interesting none the less.

    I agree, start small when diagnosing, but my reasoning of the initial comment was to suggest if your reservoir is full, you has driven the car, removed the cap afterwards to top of fluid there should be no air in the system. If there is, well something is allowing air in. We have come full circle ⭕️




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  23. #12743
    Senior Member Three Rings klrider44's Avatar
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    Doylestown PA

    Quote Originally Posted by canadianA4B7 View Post
    BKS tuning Germany has them.

    Thereís also a number of dealers which I have contacted about these. Contact below was able to fill the order. I believe you can order the part direct through the Jim Ellis web site.

    Audi fuel control module part #8E0906071B

    Todd Fillingim
    Parts Consultant
    Jim Ellis Audi Atlanta Parts
    5849B Peachtree Road
    Atlanta, GA 30341

    770-454-5951 (parts dept)
    678-547-0984 (fax)

    www.audiatlantaparts.com
    Good to know, I may have found a used one so if that falls through I will contact jim Ellis.


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  24. #12744
    Veteran Member Four Rings mcpcartier's Avatar
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    08 xB, 13 Ex, 16 Civic EX
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    SoCal

    Quote Originally Posted by mcpcartier View Post
    A little more info....

    Went to head home after work last night....about 9 hours of sitting...fired her up and temperature gauge went immediately to the midpoint? As I drove home (25 miles fwy driving on a friday....meaning some bumper to bumper stop and go) the gauge fluctuated between the 1/2 and 3/4 point.

    Don't trust the temperature reading....new CTS is in order to see if that is the culprit.

    Heading to get a CTS this AM and...figured I'd check the connector to see if anything was up. Feels like the coolant flange is seeping again (this will be my third change)...oh yeah. Fired her up and the temperature gauge immediately went to the 1/4 mark (more reason to doubt the CTS...it should be sending cold resistance) and went to just above the 1/2 mark during my errands (picking up a new CTS).

    I did burp it while at Kragen....not sure where the bleeder is for the heater core. It may be the CTS is not immersed due to improper bleeding.

    Either way....I'm going to change the CTS once the engine cools (after the leafs game) and see if anything changes. Will go from there.
    New CTS did the trick. Went for a cruise....temperature gauge solid as a rock at the 1/2 mark like always.

    Oddly getting a P2231...will look into that next weekend. Not enough time to start on something new this weekend.
    2007 2.0T Q 6MT, S-Line, Ti Package, BB
    Revo Stage 2 | JHM Stage 1 Clutch | K&N Drop in | APR HPFP | 034 HFC | AWE Catback | 034 SD Tranny & Motor Mounts | Neuspeed Snub | H&R Sport Springs | Bilsteins | Moog ACA | B5 Perches (removed) | RS4 RSB | ABT Drilled n Slotted Rotors | Redstuff Front & Akebono Rear | Podi Stepper Boost Gauge | Recaro's | H&R Spacers 15f/20r | Clear Corners w/Blackout | Smoked Frt Markers | Cupra R Lip | 20% Tint

  25. #12745
    Active Member Two Rings Syeuern's Avatar
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    Colorado

    For a while now I have been going through coil packs like crazy. It will start by me getting the ďCylinder 4 MisfireĒ code and getting those explosions and weird pops when accelerating, if I change the coil pack it works fine again, however it wonít take long for it to do the same thing over again. Iím curious as to what may be causing all the coil packs to fail. Could it be spark plugs ? However the plugs are less then 3k miles. Any input will help. Thanks.


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  26. #12746
    Established Member Four Rings
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    Whatís your spark plug gap? You changed your plugs but what did you gap them to?

  27. #12747
    Established Member Two Rings bigheadb7's Avatar
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    Jun 02 2017
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    New Jersey

    Quote Originally Posted by Syeuern View Post
    For a while now I have been going through coil packs like crazy. It will start by me getting the ďCylinder 4 MisfireĒ code and getting those explosions and weird pops when accelerating, if I change the coil pack it works fine again, however it wonít take long for it to do the same thing over again. Iím curious as to what may be causing all the coil packs to fail. Could it be spark plugs ? However the plugs are less then 3k miles. Any input will help. Thanks.


    Sent from my iPhone using Audizine
    When was last time you did carbon cleaning on your car? Injector might be clogged up or sometimes manifold fails


    Sent from my iPhone using Audizine

  28. #12748
    Senior Member Two Rings Mech_Mike412's Avatar
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    Pittsburgh, PA USA

    S3 injectors vs. RS4 injectors for a stage 2/2+?

    Sent from my SM-G950U using Audizine mobile app
    2008 Audi A4 Quattro S-Line 6MT
    K&N Filter - ECS Turbo Inlet Hose - ECS Vent Boost Gauge - GFB Diverter Valve - Morimoto 3000K HID Fogs - JHM Stage 1 93oct - CTS Charge Pipes - CTS Catback Exhaust

  29. #12749
    Veteran Member Four Rings i3oricua's Avatar
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    Sep 17 2006
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    2006 A4; 2007 Audi Q7 3.0 TDI
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    Brandon, Suffolk, England

    Quote Originally Posted by Mech_Mike412 View Post
    S3 injectors vs. RS4 injectors for a stage 2/2+?

    Sent from my SM-G950U using Audizine mobile app
    Neither. Wonít help you gain anything at that level. Use your money on something else.


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

  30. #12750
    Senior Member Two Rings Mech_Mike412's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by i3oricua View Post
    Neither. Wonít help you gain anything at that level. Use your money on something else.


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
    I meant to say Stage 3, such as KO4 upgrade. The RS4 injectors are cheaper than the S3 injectors

    Sent from my SM-G950U using Audizine mobile app
    2008 Audi A4 Quattro S-Line 6MT
    K&N Filter - ECS Turbo Inlet Hose - ECS Vent Boost Gauge - GFB Diverter Valve - Morimoto 3000K HID Fogs - JHM Stage 1 93oct - CTS Charge Pipes - CTS Catback Exhaust

  31. #12751
    Established Member Four Rings
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    Quote Originally Posted by Mech_Mike412 View Post
    I meant to say Stage 3, such as KO4 upgrade. The RS4 injectors are cheaper than the S3 injectors

    Sent from my SM-G950U using Audizine mobile app
    Use the injectors the tune calls for. If the tune is written for S3, donít use RS4 and vice versa.

    S3 injector K04 kits seem to me more prevalent.

  32. #12752
    Veteran Member Four Rings i3oricua's Avatar
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    Sep 17 2006
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    2006 A4; 2007 Audi Q7 3.0 TDI
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    Brandon, Suffolk, England

    Quote Originally Posted by Mech_Mike412 View Post
    I meant to say Stage 3, such as KO4 upgrade. The RS4 injectors are cheaper than the S3 injectors

    Sent from my SM-G950U using Audizine mobile app
    Stick to the S3 injectors. RS4 injectors work great for RS4s but tuners tend to stay away from trying to scale the RS4s in for some reason on our platform. The S3s have worked for a long time. I tried to do the same thing you are thinking and bought RS4s because they were cheaper and my tuner asked me to stick to the S3 injectors.


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

  33. #12753
    Established Member Two Rings Planespotting's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 25 2013
    AZ Member #
    126916
    My Garage
    2005 Ducati Multistrada 1000S DS
    Location
    MI

    I have 2 questions:

    1) Is there a need to code a TPMS module (the one in the trunk) to the car? I bought a used, supposedly working one and still don't have working TPMS. Some modules I've heard need to be coded, so I'm wondering.

    2) Has anyone used the ebay replica door blades? Is the fit any good?

    TIA!
    2008 Ibis White A4 2.0T (fake) S-Line | Tiptronic (I know...) | Quattro | APR Stage 2

  34. #12754
    Veteran Member Four Rings WillŽnskraft's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 14 2011
    AZ Member #
    82575
    My Garage
    2002 Audi A4 1.8TQ, 2007 Audi A4 2.0TQ
    Location
    Norcross, GA

    Just acquired a rear bumper, but wonít install it till probably summer.

    What do you guys recommend or use for protection and storage?

    I was thinking wrapping the bumper in some saran wrap.
    "Beep beeeep bloop boop" - R2D2

  35. #12755
    Established Member Three Rings
    Join Date
    Dec 05 2016
    AZ Member #
    387541
    Location
    miami FL

    what should stock cars be gapped to?

    Quote Originally Posted by EvolutionArmory View Post
    Whatís your spark plug gap? You changed your plugs but what did you gap them to?

  36. #12756
    Established Member Four Rings
    Join Date
    May 20 2017
    AZ Member #
    399735
    Location
    New Hampshire

    Quote Originally Posted by ahotboy15 View Post
    what should stock cars be gapped to?
    .032 for stock

    .028 for tuned

    Thatís the rule of thumb anyway.

  37. #12757
    Established Member Two Rings theguysinger's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 25 2017
    AZ Member #
    410332
    Location
    Ephrata, PA

    Quote Originally Posted by EvolutionArmory View Post
    .032 for stock

    .028 for tuned

    Thatís the rule of thumb anyway.
    If Iím not tuned, can I still run BKR7Eís? Iíve heard they arenít the right heat range, but I donít know much about plugs. 🤷🏻*♂️

  38. #12758
    Established Member Four Rings
    Join Date
    May 20 2017
    AZ Member #
    399735
    Location
    New Hampshire

    I would run whatever heat range OEM plugs are if youíre stock. It probably would be fine but I wouldnít want to give you bad advice.

  39. #12759
    Established Member Three Rings
    Join Date
    Dec 05 2016
    AZ Member #
    387541
    Location
    miami FL

    Dropping the subfram requires supporting the engine from up top? Is there a thread on this and does it really take 4 hours to drop the oil pan say to reseal the oil pan from leaking?

  40. #12760
    Established Member Four Rings
    Join Date
    May 20 2017
    AZ Member #
    399735
    Location
    New Hampshire

    Yes, you need an engine cradle to support the motor from the top when lowering the subframe to remove the oil pan.

    As far as time goes, it takes what it takes.

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