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    Veteran Member Four Rings mec's Avatar
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    How to Maestro: Boost Duty Map

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    (Remember I am in the learning stage as much as anyone else new to Maestro, so please correct me when I am wrong.)

    BOOST DUTY BACKGROUND
    In order to understand what Boost Duty is you should know how the entire boost system works.

    Turbocharger: A mechanical compressor that consists of two wheels. A compressor wheel and a turbine wheel. Exhaust from the exhaust ports on the engine flows into the turbine to spin the wheel which is affixed to a common driveshaft and attached to the compressor wheel. The compressor wheel is driven off of the turbine's movement, and the compressor wheel will suck in air and pressure is it into the intake tract. This compressed air goes into the intake manifold, used in the combustion process and exits the engine back into the turbo to drive the compressor wheel again.

    Wastegate Actuator: A mechanical diaphragm. This diaphragm uses air pressure to move the wastegate arm. Air pressure to the diaphragm will move the arm out, no air pressure will keep the arm in its original location.

    Wastegate Flapper: This is a small flap inside of the turbine housing( on internally wastegated turbos). The flapper is designed to divert exhaust flow from the turbine and allow exhaust to flow out of a port that the flapper covers. By bypassing the turbine, the compressor wheel stops or reduces building boost. The flapper is driven by the wastegate actuator arm. When air pressure entered the wastegate diaphragm, the wastegate actuator arm will move out, and will push the wastegate flapper arm down. When no pressure is applied to the wastegate diaphragm, the flapper covers the wastegate port inside of the turbine housing.

    N75 Solenoid valve: This is the electronic boost controller that the ECU uses to manage boost in the system. This valve is electronically controlled, the ECU will tell it how much to open. This device has three ports that are described below. the N75 is connected to the wastegate actuator diaphragm, and is the control between how much pressurized air enters the diaphragm to control the flapper and ultimately the amount of boost produced.


    BOOST DUTY TABLE
    Boost duty is the N75's duty cycle, this is a value from 0% to 100%. Now here is the fun part, a percentage doesn't exactly explain well what you are doing by making edits the Boost Duty table so it's important to properly understand what you are actually doing when you manipulate the table.

    N75 Description of Operation
    The Boost Duty table is the ECU map that is used to control the N75. The N75 is a valve located between the turbocharger's wastegate, and the intake tract. The n75 has three nipples on it, one boost inlet, and two outlets.
    Ports Described:
    1. Inlet: This is where boost enters the valve, either from the intake plumbing, or more commonly the intake manifold. Simple as that.

    2. Outlet to the turbo: This outlet is found perpendicular to the inlet. when Boost duty = 0%, 100% of the airflow entering the inlet (port1) is funneled through port 2 out to the wastegate actuator. What does this do? It allows the wastegate to receive pressure so that it can actuate the arm, drop the wastegate flapper inside of the turbo (if you are internally wastegated) and divert exhaust flow from the turbine to the wastegate port in the turbine housing. What this does is lower boost pressure, this is because when the wastegate actuator receives boost pressure, it opens the wastegate flapper in the turbo and you end up removing the exhaust stream from the turbine, and it escapes through the hole that the wastegate flapper covers, which reduces the amount of exhaust going into the turbine, causing less spool.

    3. Outlet to the intake tract: This outlet is found inline to the boost inlet on the n75. This outlet is a "relief" to port #2, what this means is that when Boost duty is = 0%, no boost enters port #3, 100% is funneled into port #2, However as soon as boost duty is increased past 0% say to 20%, the N75 valve opens up 20%, diverting 20% of the boost now out port #3 and back into the intake tract which does nothing on that end except recirculate air. Where this matters most is in port #2. Because 20% of the flow has been diverted to port #3, you now only have 80% flow in your port #2, which means that your wastegate actuator won't be able to stay open as much as it was before. Remember that the more pressure the wastegate actuator receives, the more it can open the wastegate flapper. So an 80% flow in port #2 has now caused your wastegate flapper arm to actually close slightly, which diverts more exhaust flow into the turbine, increasing spool. You can begin to see now that there is a correlation between boost duty and boost buildup. When boost duty = 0%, most commonly under idle, all the boost pressure goes to port #2 of the N75 valve, straight to the wastegate actuator arm, allowing for the wastegate flapper to open, and not build any boost. 0% boost duty = 0% boost. On the other hand, 100% boost duty means that 100% of your boost pressure is going to Port #3, which means port #2 is getting 0% boost pressure, consequently the wastegate actuator arm receives no pressure, and the wastegate flapper remains closed, which means all exhaust flow goes to the turbine.

    TL ;DR zero boost duty means no boost, low boost duty means you build low boost, high boost duty is how you build boost quickest.


    K03 Boost Duty

    So let's come back to the table now that we have a better understanding.



    The Maestro table called Boost Duty has two inputs and one output. The inputs are RPM(speed of engine) and TPS(throttle position), these two inputs give you an output(z dimension) value if you are looking at the graph. This z output is "Boost Duty".

    This table is largely driven by the turbo you are using. Let's assume its the common quick spooling K03. A k03 can range from 0 to 21 psi efficiently. Let's keep this in mind as we estimate a few values to get a feel for what we are doing.

    0 % TPS and 1250 RPM's So this says, we are not trying to accelerate at all, the accelerator pedal is depressed, and we are very low in the RPM range, come to think of it, 0% throttle means you don't need boost right? After all you want boost if you want to accelerate, and at 0% throttle you can't accelerate. Make that entire column 0% all the way down.

    10% TPS and 1250 RPMs. So this says we are low in the RPM range, and we want the slightest amount of boost so that we can coast, after all at 10% you aren't accelerating, it's just adding enough of the pedal so that you can continue moving at your current speed. Well in that scenario, we want just a smidge of boost, which means we want the wastegate flapper arm to close just a bit. Lets say roughly 20-25% you be the judge. We don't want too much, because if you up the boost duty to 80-100% you will build boost far too quickly, and your acceleration will feel non linear, remember that we are on a small k03 turbo which means that you can build boost very easily and quickly, so small adjustments are best.

    10% TPS and 7150 RPMs. This is not a very common pedal position, but I wanted to put it down just to explain the way your graph should look like. You will have a linear increase in boost duty under 10% TPS from 1250 to 7150 RPMs, however at 10% throttle and at extremely high RPM's this k03 will be maxed out, you only need a very small increment of boost to keep the linear feel. Let's say 1/3rd extra boost duty. so if you were at 20% Boost Duty at 1250 RPMs, perhaps up it to 27% for 7150 RPMs, if you were at 25% lets go up to 33-34ish%.

    Now that we have worked our way down the table let's work our way across the table.

    1250 RPMS and 20% TPS, previously at 10% throttle we were requesting 23% so lets say that now we have put the pedal down 10% more, we are trying to get more power, perhaps one step above cruising but not really trying to get real acceleration, perhaps a highway pass best describes this scenario. We will want closer to 40% boost duty now so we can build a few more psi of boost, but still not have a jagged acceleration. Keep in mind that at 1250, you're K03 won't be able to make more than 10 psi, so let's keep boost duty below 50% for this 1250 RPM row. In fact the K03 doesn't really seem to respond very well below 2000 RPMs all the way from 10% to 95% TPS lets keep it all under 50%, make everything linear under there starting with the values we discussed previously.

    3000 RPMs and 10% TPS. You should have filled in this value already, it should be a linear value between 20% and (20%*1.33). I used 23% for my first value (1250 and 10%) so I said 28% for 3000 RPMs and 10% TPS. Now at 3000 RPMS you are trying to move, you aren't going for maximum performance, but you definitely want to see some power, the k03 happens to be in its efficiency here, so lets make the maximum value for 3000 RPM's and 95% TPS to be something around 70%, which says that the wastegate is only open slightly, it is mostly closed. Remember than only 30% of the boost to the n75 is making it to the wastegate at this point. Considering that the k03 is so small, you should be able to see close to maximum pressure here.

    Ok thats probably enough cells you get the idea. Lets consider some things here.

    1. the k03 is small, it boost quickly from 2000-4000 which means you will see peak boost in this area. with such a fast spooling turbo you will want very small incremental adjustments between cells, meaning that for each value, the numbers to the left column should represent a larger gap then the numbers in the column to the right of the cell. Let me give you an example. Lets take the 10% column, this is the column with the highest change factor(delta), in column 10%, we have 0% to the left and 20% to the right. The 0% TPS column, is filled entirely of 0's! and the 10% TPS column represents numbers that should range from 20% to 35%. That is where your biggest change in columns will be. This means that from 10% to 20% the values should not increase by more than half of the change that happened from 0% TPS to 10% TPS.


    Now what we can take is that the change from 0% to 10% increases very much, but the change from 10% to 20% is approximately only half of the change that happened from 0% to 10%. Consequently as you work your way across the table, changes should be smaller and smaller, so that when you reach 80% to 95% you are perhaps only changing 0.1-0.5% in the lower half of the RPM's and only 1-3% in the high RPM range.
    Why?

    The more throttle you add, the more boost you want, but on a k03, the spool is almost instant, meaning you can get 7 psi as soon as you step on the gas, no need for buildup like on a big turbo, so you want the wastegate arm to deliver small incremental change so that the instant spool doesn't make give you jagged acceleration. Make everything linear.

    2. Your lowest values will always be in the 0% TPS column, no matter the size of the turbo, you don't need boost if you aren't accelerating. This column will always be 0% Boost Duty. Your next lowest value in a k03 Boost Duty map will be 10% TPS and 1250 RPMs, if you go down, right, or diagonally down and right, the three values will be greater than the one in 10% TPS and 1250 RPMs.

    Your highest values will be where the K03 is no longer in its efficiency. So the value for 7150 RPMs and 95%TPS will be the maximum value on the map, I set it to 95%. Values to the left and above it will be less simply because the K03 is not in its efficiency range, the wastegate arm must be as closed as possible to keep exhaust flow in flowing through the turbine and not diverting to the wastegate flapper port in the turbine housing.


    BIG TURBO BOOST DUTY

    Lets add one of these to the equation



    We will start out with a base table like this one



    I'm running a Garrett GTX2867r on my 2.0T FSI now and what I find is that many of the maps from my k03 do not transfer well. This is especially the case for the Boost Duty Map. Now that we have an idea of how to do it on a K03, doing it on a bigger turbo should be a breeze. I like writing the table from easiest to hardest. If you can fill out the boundaries on a map you can just smooth everything with a nice linear increase. So start with what is easiest, work around the edges, then just fill in the middle values on a map with linear progressions from the lower number to the higher number across the table.

    1. Start out with the usual. Write the 0% TPS column to be 0% boost duty all the way down.
    2. Now let's think about where this turbo will be out of it's efficiency in the lower RPM's. Below 2000, this turbo can't build much boost, around 2500 its building a few psi, but we really get moving around 3000 and are unstoppable by 3700-4000 RPMS.
    3. So under 2000 RPM's this turbo should be at maximum Boost Duty, this will ensure that most of the pressure entering the N75 leaves through Port #3 on the N75 so that the least amount of pressure enters port #2 and the wastegate can stay as closed as possible to build boost. Everything below the lowest boost threshold should be 95% Boost Duty. So I took everything under 2000 RPMS and set it to 95% Boost Duty all across the table from 10% TPS to 95% TPS. Now we have the top of this map filled.
    4. Let's do the right side section of this map, which is the 95% TPS column. On a big turbo application you will not want to have 95% Boost Duty on full throttle, you want the wastegate flapper to be cracked so that you can get smoothness and quicker response. I'm not sure how far this map will take me since I'm new on this turbo so I will start out with 60% Boost Duty here all the way from 2250 RPMs to 7150 RPMs. If you run the file and feel that it isn't enough or want more boost, then up this to 65%, then 70%, then 75% and you should get a feel of how much boost each 5% is adding. I like starting low and going up from there. Remember that the borders are what matter in this map. They set the limits so you want to not push it until you know the limits. Ok now we have to do the left side this map.
    5. We have already done the 0% TPS column but that doesn't mean much, so lets do the 10% column which has much more valuable information. Below 2000, we know is 95% Boost Duty. Above that from 2250 to 7150 RPM we should set a static value, maybe 5 or 10%, you can adjust this later if you feel that 10% TPS is delivering too much boost.
    6. Now we have three edges of the map. 95% Boost Duty all over the top, 60% Boost Duty all along the right edge, and 5% all along the left edge. The bottom edge is easy, in fact so is all the middle of the map. Input values between the three walls that represent smooth transitions. Meaning if you're 4000 RPM column goes 0%,5% and then the final column says 60%, then the middle columns should increase evenly from 5% to 60% to fill in the values. Alternatively, if you need help, select all of the data, and right click, hit smooth data….oooh yeah thats looking nice and smooth.
    7. Now the only thing we have is a block of 95% that doesn't look too smooth. Make an escalator that goes down from 0 to 30% TPS and from 1250RPM to 2000. Again make these values linear. So now that block that was 95% Boost Duty below 2000 RPMs should look like a boat, the left side of it is slanted and it looks like an upright boat. Cool right?

    Upload that file to your ECU, and lets see how it plays out. Like I mentioned if you aren't getting enough boost and full throttle, up the right side to 70% or 80%, if you aren't getting enough boost at low TPS then also up the values on the left side of the map. Resmooth the values, and upload. Rinse and Repeat :).


    A quick example. Lets say you want to go from 70% to 85 %

    Select the right side column, and right click math functions. then type in 15 into the box and hit add. This will add the value "15" to the cells selected. However, now we have an irregular jump.



    Select all of the data that you want to change, for me it was everything from the 30% TPS column to the end. Select it all, then right click, math functions. Don't type anything into the box, just hit smooth data. Boom you're done. Upload that file and see how it plays out.


    If that still isn't enough then go back to the table repeat the process but try a higher boost duty this time.

    One really important thing to remember is that the n75 boost duty result in different boost figures depending on how you hook up your wastegate. The rule of thumb is to bring your wastegate to where it just barely fits over the wastegate arm, then do 3 full rotations, or 6 half turns, and that is the proper value for preload on the wastegate. However, if you tighten down the wastegate much more than that, then you will need a different boost duty than what the average person would. so you will have to play with the values. It's good to know what Boost Duty results in what PSI so you don't overboost and cause damage to the engine.
    When I ran the base file I was getting 21 PSI, but I wanted more. I knew 21 PSI = 70% Boost Duty, so 95% was 28 psi roughly. So I decided to not go past 95% boost duty. I am not running meth yet and I'm not sure the engine can do 30 PSI without timing pull.
    So know your limits on the boost duty.

    I hope this info helps, I'll be happy to fix any mistakes or inaccuracies, feel free to PM me or post here and I will edit the original information. As I keep learning about these maps I'll be sure to keep you guys in the loop so we can get a solid community of people who can teach others how to use the product.

  2. #2
    Veteran Member Four Rings canadianA4B7's Avatar
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    Mec could you take a screen shot of these tables? Mainly the one youve soken of for BT. Im just getting maestro now as i bought it on here from another member. And clearly i have much to learn as i have less the 0% knowledge of how it works. Also the n75 then is capable of operating on both internal and external wastegates? Im glad to get this info. Even thogh i cannot see the software i can visualize what these graphs look like. Ill be asking more questions once i get things installed and im ready to dial in the new turbo

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    Veteran Member Three Rings Flexcj5's Avatar
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    Martin,

    That's a lot to process and write up. Looks good. I've just started playing with maestro so I appreciate the help.
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    Veteran Member Four Rings ericpaulyoung's Avatar
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    Excellent info Mec.

    The GTX is a finicky beast, and the K03 maps won't work for shit. I will take some screen shits of what I have found works for different goals. Just got off work (5:30 pm here) so first I need to grab a refreshment.
    Epy

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    Veteran Member Four Rings AudiTFSI3o3's Avatar
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    man. even after all this i still don't want to deal with Maestro myself. let me know when you master this shit so you can be my local tuner :D
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    Veteran Member Four Rings aluthman's Avatar
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    My (small) contribution:

    Injector constants
    Stock - 0.033320
    S3 - 0.028770
    RS4 - 0.026990
    -Adam

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    Veteran Member Four Rings ericpaulyoung's Avatar
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    OK, got some time (slept till 1 pm trying to catch up with jet lag). So here is what I have found so far that works for me.

    1. Start low, come up from the bottom with boost.
    2. Run logs for a "standard" smooth map. The map that usually comes with a base tune DOES NOT LIMIT boost to any safe level. Here is a typical OEM boost duty map. Notice how is assumes a linear relationship between demand and response. This is because Audi spends a lot of time matching the hardware together, and a lot of time matching an ECU to the system. So that in the end the PID controls of the ECU can "expect" that if it asks for 70% that it will get 70% in return, and this will be the right value. Now when you stuff a mismatched piece of hardware into this ecosystem, everything flys out of whack and you need to tune for this (more later).




    Now what I call a smooth map is some thing that takes account of the fact that a high performance aftermarket turbo will want to push harder in some areas and lighter in others. In general this means that it will not spool as fast but push much harder up top. From what I can tell, most tuners try to "fix" this by locking the turbo wastegate shut down low, then letting is slam open up top in the same fashion as what a manual boost controller does. Here is a map that I got from someone I was tuning, and the previous shop had done just this. It is basically just a really complicated manual boost controller.





    A little better approach is to lock it out down low then to bring it back to a "limited" linear map up top. This still is not correct in my opinion because there is a threshold after which more lock out doesn't help, so you would only need 45% down low to essentially lock out the low end, so 100% is not needed and causes the transition to be less smooth.





    Instead of this, and if you are trying to hold down a turbo to a safe level (all you stock rod guys listen up), you need to keep pace with how a turbo behaves. A turbo is a self feeding machine, and the harder it pushes, the harder it can push. This means it has a non-linear behavior, and will spool up in an exponential manner. So what you need for a boost level that is below the capability of the turbo, and also flat, is to follow along as it builds its strength. Now here is a duty map that will "follow" the character of the GTX2867 turbo as it wants to stretch its legs, and pulls it back to a safe level of around 18psi flat through out the power band.




    3. Next you want to fine tune the boost, and all the above is assuming that the Max VE table is sufficiently above the actual values that you always try to pull up on the boost to meet the curve you want. This is not really the case, so you need to go back and match the Max VE table to not produce too much instantaneous or integrated error, so that the ECU can control the operation at lower rpms and load levels. More on that later.

    I should also mention, that the above maps are all real and have been run. They are not made up, instead they are in operation in cars as I type. So I guess you can say the way they respond has been proven to some degree. All cars and different setups behave different, but the above is generally applicable to all setups. I hope this helps out those trying to get their head around this system.


    epy
    Epy

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    Veteran Member Four Rings ericpaulyoung's Avatar
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    You can feel the boost spool in the last above map. Looking at it you can see that the target for hitting the first peak in boost is between 3000 and 3500 rpms, then we have to taper off quickly to keep it from overshooting the target.


    Now the final option is if you are trying to run the turbo at its maximum potential, but in a smooth fashion. In this case you want to prevent boost spikes down low and let it run up top. This is opposite to the behavior of the last map above. So instead of introducing a taper to prevent the turbo from going higher after it hits the first peak, you follow it up the curve all the way to the top. Now instead of limiting the turbo to a preset flat level, you are just trying to keep it from spiking and make it smooth. Here is the boost duty that I used on my GTX2863 to produce a run up to 30-32 psi, then to hold it at 30 psi all the way that I could. In this case you can see the lock out up top as the 2863 with the .64 A/R was running out of breath after 5000 rpms.







    epy
    Epy

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    Veteran Member Four Rings canadianA4B7's Avatar
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    Wow this is lots of info! Im assuming ill need something like this once i get maestro and the 2863 into my car eh EPY! And i c better y u suggested the larger hotside now that i can visualize these graphs. It will hang on longer on the top end and shouldnt fall off above 5k. Now i dont think ill be needing 30psi will I? Or would this thing still be amazing at around say 25-28 psi max?

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    Veteran Member Four Rings rongeur's Avatar
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    So forgive me if this is a noob question and/or off topic as I am still trying to wrap my brain around what maestro can do and not do, but can throttle response be improved as well? Stock was tragic and my APR did seem to improve some but that is only observational at best. TIA.
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    Veteran Member Four Rings mec's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by rongeur View Post
    So forgive me if this is a noob question and/or off topic as I am still trying to wrap my brain around what maestro can do and not do, but can throttle response be improved as well? Stock was tragic and my APR did seem to improve some but that is only observational at best. TIA.
    There is an accelerator pedal map so you theoretically could change your throttle to anything you want. Don't know about response, but you can change the delivery meth. Jagged and quick, smooth an linear, etc.

    Sorry guys I've been out in the wilderness and haven't had a chance to work on this, I'll upload some more maps tonight.

    +1 for EPY for stepping up and explaining a ton of info! Thank you.

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    Veteran Member Four Rings AudiTFSI3o3's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by mec View Post
    There is an accelerator pedal map so you theoretically could change your throttle to anything you want. Don't know about response, but you can change the delivery meth. Jagged and quick, smooth an linear, etc.

    Sorry guys I've been out in the wilderness and haven't had a chance to work on this, I'll upload some more maps tonight.

    +1 for EPY for stepping up and explaining a ton of info! Thank you.
    is this kind of like what APR did with "left foot braking?"

    i mean typically stepping on the brake cuts throttle when both are pressed
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    Veteran Member Four Rings mec's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by AudiTFSI3o3 View Post
    is this kind of like what APR did with "left foot braking?"

    i mean typically stepping on the brake cuts throttle when both are pressed
    No, that is a safety mechanism built into the motronic programing. Supposedly throttle is only cut if you press on both at the same time, however if you apply the brakes, then throttle it won't cut throttle.

    Read here: http://www.autospeed.com/cms/article...art-1&A=108379
    http://www.autospeed.com/cms/article...art-2&A=108380

  14. #14
    Senior Member Three Rings
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    Anyone have any idea whats up with this boost duty map?

    I have been using maestro in my B8 for a few month and have never seen this map in my old tune files. Today, eurodyne posted all the base files to the site so i can get them via maestro instead of emailing directly. these "new" maps all have this max boost duty map. I dont recognize the axis or know what "speed" represents.

    Thoughts?

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    Senior Member Three Rings
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    Veteran Member Four Rings ericpaulyoung's Avatar
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    Hmm. Interesting. Never seen this one before.

    EPY
    Epy

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    Veteran Member Four Rings
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    The description isn't very helpful, as usual...


  19. #19
    Veteran Member Four Rings Biged243's Avatar
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    The speed seems like rpm, well kinda.
    What ever makes sense go with the opposite and you got it

  20. #20
    Senior Member Three Rings
    Join Date
    Feb 19 2014
    AZ Member #
    147386
    Location
    RVA

    Quote Originally Posted by Biged243 View Post
    The speed seems like rpm, well kinda.
    thats what i thought. "speed" should be rpm. and "RPM: should be somethng else.

  21. #21
    Veteran Member Four Rings
    Join Date
    Dec 23 2011
    AZ Member #
    85651
    Location
    USA

    Yeah speed seems like it should be rpm. Maybe try reducing the max boost duty values in certain areas and then take data logs to see what is affected?

  22. #22
    Active Member One Ring Quatty's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 02 2016
    AZ Member #
    384479
    My Garage
    1984 Trans Am. 500hp 350CID
    Location
    Portland, Or

    Did you ever get an answer to this? I'm having the exact same problem with this weird boost map on my 2009 a4. If speed isn't RPMs then this map seems backwards??
    Audi 5000 bitch!!!

  23. #23
    Veteran Member Four Rings canadianA4B7's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 10 2012
    AZ Member #
    87997
    My Garage
    parts
    Location
    Napanee, ON

    Shoot me a pm including email address. I believe I have all 3 users above's boost duty maps. EPY MEC and poison I have exchanged files with and had help dialing these maps in. I'm no master but I've had some very good tunes with maestro.

  24. #24
    Veteran Member Four Rings
    Join Date
    Dec 23 2011
    AZ Member #
    85651
    Location
    USA

    Just FYI, B7 vs b8 a4 boost duty maps are different

  25. #25
    Veteran Member Four Rings canadianA4B7's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 10 2012
    AZ Member #
    87997
    My Garage
    parts
    Location
    Napanee, ON

    Quote Originally Posted by p0isin View Post
    Just FYI, B7 vs b8 a4 boost duty maps are different
    Good eye I thought it said 2008, b7 section thinking.

  26. #26
    Veteran Member Four Rings
    Join Date
    Dec 23 2011
    AZ Member #
    85651
    Location
    USA

    Yes same here on mobile. I saw his signature on desktop!

  27. #27
    Registered Member One Ring
    Join Date
    Apr 30 2016
    AZ Member #
    372647
    Location
    Hillsboro, MO

    Quote Originally Posted by Jerry1847 View Post



    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
    did anyone ever figure out what the axis are for this which one is true RPM and what is the other one?

  28. #28
    Veteran Member Four Rings Spawne32's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 20 2016
    AZ Member #
    386232
    Location
    NJ

    bump, anyone ever figure out the axis names issue?

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