B7 A4 2.0T Diverter Valve Removal/Installation

**Jake@JHM** · 09-24-2013 03:26 PM

Hey Guys,

Customers have asked us several times about how to replace the diverter valve. Since mine recently failed, I decided to do a quick write up on how to do the install! Follow my Build Thread for more information on the B7 A4 2.0T.

Replacing your Diverter Valve is easier than most people think, and below are the tools I used.

Tools needed to remove DV:

1x Socket Wrench
1x 2" Extension
1x 5mm Allen Socket

The first thing you are going to want to do is remove your belly pan, once your car is up in the air (whether it be Jack Stands or a Lift).

Removing the belly pan requires you to loosen the plastic screws and you can use a Flat Head or Phillips Screwdriver to do so.

Once the belly pan is off, you can see the bottom of your turbo where your Diverter Valve is located. Take the harness and unplug it.

Once the harness has been unplugged, remove the three 5mm Allen Bolts from the DV.

Now, pull the DV out of the turbo (should come straight out).

Put the new Updated Diverter Valve into the turbo and tighten the 5mm Allens back up and torque them to about 8ft-lbs and plug the harness back in.

Now put the belly pan back on and you are done!

Here is a side by side shot of my torn Diverter Valve next to my new Updated OEM Diverter Valve. As you can see, the design totally changed removing the failure prone diaphragm with a upgraded piston style valve.

For those of you who are experiencing a loss of power/boost, you may need to change your DV! We offer the new updated one on our website for $54.95!

Click HERE for more information!

Let me know if you have any questions!

Jake

**ironxcross** · 11-22-2013 09:29 AM

Just used this without any problems, thanks!

**mec** · 11-23-2013 06:26 PM

Nice write up! Surprised you didn't replace it with a gfb ;)

**A4TQS** · 03-15-2014 07:33 AM

Thanks for the useful info!

**Jake@JHM** · 03-15-2014 09:25 AM

Originally Posted by A4TQS

Thanks for the useful info!

No problem!

We have the DV on sale for $54.95 now too!

**sfl_A4** · 02-09-2015 04:53 AM

I did the R&R on the Diverter valve over the weekend. This guide was helpful.

The one thing I would suggest is you use a 1/4" drive socket to do the job, the 3/8" drive makes it harder to squeeze through the small opening between pipes and things. Other than that, it was pretty straight forward.

**Jake@JHM** · 02-09-2015 10:24 AM

Right on!

**feeley80** · 04-29-2015 03:01 PM

Just finished up. Holy hell, I had a real time with that third, invisible bolt. Finally done though and thanks for taking the time to do the DIY.

**Jake@JHM** · 04-29-2015 03:02 PM

Originally Posted by feeley80

Just finished up. Holy hell, I had a real time with that third, invisible bolt. Finally done though and thanks for taking the time to do the DIY.

No problem! I am glad you were able to use it

**vajking** · 05-13-2015 12:40 PM

Could anyone tell me when the new revision came? I have a C6 2.0 TFSi 2009- which have the BPJ engine, basicly the same as the 2.0T in B7.
I've tuned the car and want to look at the diverter valve also.

**Jake@JHM** · 05-15-2015 01:24 PM

Originally Posted by vajking

Could anyone tell me when the new revision came? I have a C6 2.0 TFSi 2009- which have the BPJ engine, basicly the same as the 2.0T in B7.
I've tuned the car and want to look at the diverter valve also.

Your car should have a piston style DV.

**Vizzini** · 06-17-2015 09:32 AM

Is it essentially the same process for the b8?

**Jake@JHM** · 06-17-2015 09:36 AM

Originally Posted by Vizzini

Is it essentially the same process for the b8?

For the most part!

**rmiller111** · 08-15-2015 03:28 PM

I call BS on this DIY. It should read "Once the harness has been unplugged, A MIRACLE HAPPENS, then remove the three 5mm Allen Bolts from the DV"

Just spent an hour and didn't even get the 5mm socket in any of the bolts, let alone the invisible one.

I did get a nice shower of oily dirt, however.

As far as degree of difficulty, I just replaced my intake camshaft with all that BS behind the adjuster cover and that was easy in comparison.

BS.

**Jake@JHM** · 08-15-2015 07:27 PM

Lol you can't call BS on a diy just because YOU can't figure it out. This is literally one of the easiest.

Its three bolts and a harness plug...

**mlavelle92** · 08-15-2015 07:57 PM

Originally Posted by rmiller111

I call BS on this DIY. It should read "Once the harness has been unplugged, A MIRACLE HAPPENS, then remove the three 5mm Allen Bolts from the DV"

Just spent an hour and didn't even get the 5mm socket in any of the bolts, let alone the invisible one.

I did get a nice shower of oily dirt, however.

As far as degree of difficulty, I just replaced my intake camshaft with all that BS behind the adjuster cover and that was easy in comparison.

BS.

I struggled for a good 2 hours, it wasn't me though, it was the tools. You need to use the same setup as listed in the DIY and then the 5mm are easy to get to.

**rmiller111** · 08-16-2015 05:20 PM

Yeah ok. You all are probably right. I probably just wasn't in the mood to wrench yesterday.

**Jake@JHM** · 08-16-2015 10:49 PM

It happens man. Just crack open a cold one and keep wrenching!

**JPT** · 10-12-2015 07:31 PM

Ok... I just did this job... 2 1/2 hours... I am soooo mad...

I had my front end on ramps and was working the usual way I do. My head towards the back, and my body and feet in front of the car. After almost two hours and only removing one bolt I got the idea to turn around with my feet towards the back. Basically I slid under the car from the front feet first.... THIS MADE ALL THE DIFFERENCE. Using the tools listed above AND FACING THE RIGHT WAY, the job is MUCH easier... Because the bolts back out towards the radiator, it makes it soooo much easier to be facing the bolts, instead of working away from your face. I wish I had known this, so, hopefully it will help someone else...

**Sanjman** · 10-19-2015 02:15 PM

Hey Jake you probably have midget hands! Anyone having trouble I feel ya!

It's easier if you go with the 1/4" wrench / extension / socket you will have much more room to get the extension to fit in the area. Go to the parts store and pick them up. Pick up an extra extension for the future too.

**Jake@JHM** · 10-19-2015 02:17 PM

After working on cars for a while, you learn how to squeeze your hands into small weird places. Eventually you care less about scraping your knuckles

**Forge04** · 04-28-2016 11:20 AM

Will be pulling to see if it's the retromod or not soon. Now that I know it's so easy.

**Jake@JHM** · 04-28-2016 11:21 AM

Originally Posted by Forge04

Will be pulling to see if it's the retromod or not soon. Now that I know it's so easy.

Very easy!

**Forge04** · 04-28-2016 11:32 AM

Is there a way to tell just by looking at it, without uninstalling, that it's the pistol style? And will I need any sealant?

**Jake@JHM** · 04-28-2016 11:33 AM

Originally Posted by Forge04

Is there a way to tell just by looking at it, without uninstalling, that it's the pistol style? And will I need any sealant?

You can read the part number on the side.

No sealant necessary

**lockeed** · 09-25-2016 06:07 PM

Wanted to check my diverter valve... Just worked for an hour trying to remove the invisible bolt on top. Tried a mirror etc... couldn't Decided to pull the turbo out instead out of frustration. Jeez what a mess, there's oil and antifreeze everywhere.... and I can't take off the last freakin' turbo braket bolt holing the turbo to the engine block.... How on earth is anyone able to reach it...?

**ballinb5** · 10-17-2016 10:36 AM

Will the revision piston style DV hold up to a tuned car, for example, a stage 2 apr tune?

**Jake@JHM** · 10-17-2016 10:36 AM

Originally Posted by ballinb5

Will the revision piston style DV hold up to a tuned car, for example, a stage 2 apr tune?

Absolutely

**Der Konig** · 10-17-2016 11:29 AM

Originally Posted by lockeed

Wanted to check my diverter valve... Just worked for an hour trying to remove the invisible bolt on top. Tried a mirror etc... couldn't Decided to pull the turbo out instead out of frustration. Jeez what a mess, there's oil and antifreeze everywhere.... and I can't take off the last freakin' turbo braket bolt holing the turbo to the engine block.... How on earth is anyone able to reach it...?

Ummm you aren't talking the plate on the bottom underneath the exhaust manifold are you? You don't need to loosen anything on there and will make your life difficult later.

Sent from my SM-G935V using Tapatalk

**dadman** · 10-29-2016 02:32 PM

Definitely not very easy but not hard either, if I had a 1/4" #5 or better yet a long 1/4" #5 my hand would have fit in better. The top bolt is not hard to locate and they are not tight. You need to hold the bottom of the new valve with a long screwdriver or pry bar so that you can thread 1 bolt in to hold it from falling out. I wish I knew how old the revision D was before I started. The dealer changed mine under warranty many years ago so I was sure it had an older version, when I removed it I was surprised to see it was a D. I thought that was a fairly new version, well now I have a new one....and a good old one. Bought it on Amazon for $50., https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1 Same OEM supplier, under the sticker is the Audi part #. While you're down there you can change the oil and find several other problems you never knew you had, I have a trans leak (I think) a leaky motor mount, cover screws screws missing and the lower rt/front rubber shield was twisted up in the wrong direction, the 3 sections below the grille were filled with leaves and garbage. Now back to trying to solve my elusive 04555 fault code problem and broken exhaust.

**Brendon11** · 11-23-2016 09:03 AM

This thread was super helpful, thanks guys!
I agree that you'll need a small socket wrench... My 5mm allen socket is slightly longer than a regular socket, so I didn't really need an extension. But the small wrench is key. Also I echo what JPT said earlier....

Originally Posted by JPT

I had my front end on ramps and was working the usual way I do. My head towards the back, and my body and feet in front of the car. After almost two hours and only removing one bolt I got the idea to turn around with my feet towards the back. Basically I slid under the car from the front feet first.... THIS MADE ALL THE DIFFERENCE. Using the tools listed above AND FACING THE RIGHT WAY, the job is MUCH easier... Because the bolts back out towards the radiator, it makes it soooo much easier to be facing the bolts, instead of working away from your face. I wish I had known this, so, hopefully it will help someone else...

If you're doing this in the driveway on ramps, spin around!! It makes the difference.

From start to finish, this job took me under an hour. I knew to look for the “hidden bolt”, but that wasn’t that bad. Proper tools make the job go smooth.

**verstappen** · 11-27-2016 06:13 AM

2013 b8.5, I bought the piston style DV but... do I need it? What DV does my car have? Lol.

**MISKIE** · 11-27-2016 09:07 AM

Doing this as soon as I receive my gfb dv+. Thanks, jbain2: Jesse!

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**Jake@JHM** · 11-28-2016 08:28 AM

Originally Posted by verstappen

2013 b8.5, I bought the piston style DV but... do I need it? What DV does my car have? Lol.

You should have the piston from the factory. However they can still fail. If you have high mileage it would be recommend to replace.

**000a4** · 01-29-2017 11:40 AM

I just did this and I struggled quite a bit with the bolts. Total time was ~ 2.5 hours.
I used a short ratchet wrench and a universal joint set to get into the awkward locations. http://www.sears.com/craftsman-3-pc-...p-00904250000P

The real bummer is I'm confident I managed to strip the threads on the turbo on the invisible bolt.
It was the last one and I was pissed off with moving the ratchet 1/16th of a turn at a time for an hour and a half... never wrench angry on aluminum threads :(

Any ideas how to sort that out?
It looks like I'm in for some pain to come in from the top, and there's no way I'm going to try to rethread that stupid thing laying on my back in that tight space.

It doesn't look like there's a lot of pressure going into that thing but blow-by on the o-ring seems like it'd be a problem.

The threads aren't completely gone, it just did the "wait a second this is turning way too easy now", so it's not like it's falling out.

**dadman** · 01-29-2017 02:54 PM

Originally Posted by 000a4

I just did this and I struggled quite a bit with the bolts. Total time was ~ 2.5 hours.
I used a short ratchet wrench and a universal joint set to get into the awkward locations. http://www.sears.com/craftsman-3-pc-...p-00904250000P
The real bummer is I'm confident I managed to strip the threads on the turbo on the invisible bolt.
It was the last one and I was pissed off with moving the ratchet 1/16th of a turn at a time for an hour and a half... never wrench angry on aluminum threads :(
Any ideas how to sort that out?
It looks like I'm in for some pain to come in from the top, and there's no way I'm going to try to rethread that stupid thing laying on my back in that tight space.

It doesn't look like there's a lot of pressure going into that thing but blow-by on the o-ring seems like it'd be a problem.

The threads aren't completely gone, it just did the "wait a second this is turning way too easy now", so it's not like it's falling out.

If it's all the way in and it's turning way too easy that's bad, it depends on how much of the thread is left. The aluminum would have stripped first. so that's bad too. I would take that bolt out, clean the hole with an air gun if possible and try installing a NEW bolt. Keep the bolt straight and put some pressure on it so that it cuts through the messed up thread and re-threads the original hole. Then, snug it down and don't over tighten it, if you feel the slightest bit of the bolt getting easier to turn stop right there. You could put Loctite on the bolt but that gets even trickier when you try to tighten it because now it's lubricated. Not sure if you could co to the next size bolt without tapping the ruined thread but it could be possible. You usually only get one chance to do this so be careful. Don't get angry, shit like this happens all the time even to the pros...

**000a4** · 01-30-2017 09:20 PM

Thanks dadman, I agree that the right call is to pull it back out and see how it looks. Hopefully the threads aren't filled with aluminum :/

I'm not sure of the depth available on that hole so I'll try sticking something else in there to measure the depth.. if I'm lucky I can try a few mm longer bolt to grab some extra threads.
Fortunately this isn't something that requires high torque, I just don't want it falling out.

Careful everybody!

**irobb** · 02-13-2017 03:44 PM

I broke my clip on the harness and now it comes off when driving... anyone know where I can get a replacement clip or how to just keep it snug on there?

**02A63.0Q** · 05-06-2017 08:37 AM

Originally Posted by irobb

I broke my clip on the harness and now it comes off when driving... anyone know where I can get a replacement clip or how to just keep it snug on there?

Zip Tie?

Just wanted to add that I did this on a 2010 b8 and yes, it's essentially the same procedure. I used resin ramps w/ jackstand backups. The only trouble I had was getting my hands up in there to reach the bolts. Yes, I had feet under the car, but I felt like I had more hand room being head first instead of feet first. I used a 3/8 flex-head ratchet. The flex was very helpful fitting it in there. I also had a variety of extensions (short) and just very long bits. The very long bit worked best b/c the width of the socket adapter made it difficult to fit next to the housing to get the hidden bolt. It's like a fat knuckle on a finger whereas the long bit was like a thick pencil. if you look at the new part you can see where the hidden bolt is in relation to the others. Also, the power cable clip was a @#$% to remove for some reason. It all went back together very easily.

The Audi part was stamped Pierburg, and ECS sells the Pierburg part for $6#.##. They had an ECS branded part that I went w/ for around $48.95 - came in a Pierburg box...I'm sure the "Audi" part would be double the 60 bucks.

Note, that I took off a rev D trying to investigate the cause of an underboost fault P0299. I used the android carista app on a $15 bluetooth obd adapter to clear the faults. it also clears oil change notifications. The old DV obviously had no torn diaphragm but the spring felt a lot weaker. it did not have the same resistance as the new part.

Whole thing took a little under an hours including going around the block a couple of times to make sure it was all good.