Issue with DSG Transmisson making a clunk noise when shifting between D and N.

[SwankPeRFection]

I know for a fact that the mechatronics unit has been redesigned. The look of the original 2010 and the replacement one are different material at the mount points and electronic connections have also been improved. Supposedly the original problem was the DSG fluid was eating away at some of the ribbon cables used by the electronics and the originals were also more heat sensitive than the new revisions. Too much heat for electronic components will cause them to act strange and having your electrical connections eaten away can't help either. Not sure how true all this is (it's what I've been told), but I've seen both units and they are different. Wish I had pics, but I don't.

[SwankPeRFection]

FYI, I checked mine with the door open and I can hear a faint click as the forks engage the opposing gears of but not as loud as yours. Mine kinda sounds as loud or maybe even a bit quiet as a manual when you change gears in it standing still, ya know?... that same type of click.

[Bomiz]

FYI, I checked mine with the door open and I can hear a faint click as the forks engage the opposing gears of but not as loud as yours. Mine kinda sounds as loud or maybe even a bit quiet as a manual when you change gears in it standing still, ya know?... that same type of click.

I think that's normal since mine does the same. You can notice I change gears outside the car.

[SwankPeRFection]

I think that's normal since mine does the same. You can notice I change gears outside the car.

Right, but his is pretty loud and his also had that loud lash sound when his gears were banging before the mech change.

[220013047]

It is interesting to note that before and after the repair, the clunk noise is still only happening when the car is brought to full operating temperature. When I start the car and try to shift the gears in park position before and after the repair, there is no clunk noise what so ever. Like SwankPerfection mentioned, you only feel the drivetrain engagement. My meeting with the Audi factory representative is on the November 7. I hope to share some good news after all.

[Sukks2bu]

Good luck

[Wreckm]

Just picked up a 2010 with 29k and didn't happen at all at the dealership until I had a nice drive and came to a stop felt like I got rear ended. set up an appointment taking it in later this week but I hope I don't get the run around.

[220013047]

Another member here posted the below video of his problem. Mine has the same issue, but it is almost unnoticeable, but you can feel it on S mode.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4vuIEt2mEwQ

[dparm]

Normal operation.

[Wreckm]

Yea just like that video, feels like getting hit from behind. Doing some sort of damage even if there is lubrication.

[220013047]

Why would the gear disengages after the car has stopped is beyond my understanding of normal operation. I have never seen anything like this before.

dparm, please explain.

Thanks.

[SwankPeRFection]

Why would the gear disengages after the car has stopped is beyond my understanding of normal operation. I have never seen anything like this before.

dparm, please explain.

Thanks.

It's not normal operation, he's full of shit. The gear indicator WILL CONTINUE to indicate the proper gear you're in. The clutch just is disengaged from the flywheel and that's why you're not going anywhere. The brake doesn't hold you against the force of the drivetrain like it does in an automatic with a torque converter. The brake keeps you from rolling backwards or forward due to road inclination and most importantly, tell the DSG control module that it needs to keep the clutch disengaged. As you let up off the brake, the clutch slowly reengages and you roll away, just like a MT does. The only big difference here is that you standing on the brake is necessary for the additional function of letting the TCM know you don't want it to let out the clutch to drive away. If your gear indicator flips around on the dash, that's a TCM or in this case a mechatronics issue and that's all there is to it. Anyone that says otherwise has NEVER once experienced a failing DSG in a B8 S4. I and you have... you know when it's not right.

[dparm]

It's not normal operation, he's full of shit. The gear indicator WILL CONTINUE to indicate the proper gear you're in. The clutch just is disengaged from the flywheel and that's why you're not going anywhere. The brake doesn't hold you against the force of the drivetrain like it does in an automatic with a torque converter. The brake keeps you from rolling backwards or forward due to road inclination and most importantly, tell the DSG control module that it needs to keep the clutch disengaged. As you let up off the brake, the clutch slowly reengages and you roll away, just like a MT does. The only big difference here is that you standing on the brake is necessary for the additional function of letting the TCM know you don't want it to let out the clutch to drive away. If your gear indicator flips around on the dash, that's a TCM or in this case a mechatronics issue and that's all there is to it. Anyone that says otherwise has NEVER once experienced a failing DSG in a B8 S4. I and you have... you know when it's not right.

Wait, am I misunderstanding the problem? Is the OP's car clunking when shifting in and out of D, or is it clunking on all shifts? I have experienced some clunking on almost every DCT I've driven (BMW, Audi, VW, Ford) when shifting in and out of neutral/park, but it should definitely not clunk between the gears. When it's cold, I have noticed the transmissions are a bit less responsive and harsher, but that's inherent to almost any type of trans since the metal is cold and the fluids are thicker.

[SwankPeRFection]

Wait, am I misunderstanding the problem? Is the OP's car clunking when shifting in and out of D, or is it clunking on all shifts? I have experienced some clunking on almost every DCT I've driven (BMW, Audi, VW, Ford) when shifting in and out of neutral/park, but it should definitely not clunk between the gears. When it's cold, I have noticed the transmissions are a bit less responsive and harsher, but that's inherent to almost any type of trans since the metal is cold and the fluids are thicker.

What you don't understand is the "feeling" that this clunk causes. It's not normal... trust me on that one. Unless you've experienced it, you can't understand how fairly obvious it is that it's not normal. There's a difference between a click into gear and a bang/clank into gear. This is pretty specific to a failing mech in the S4 DSG or a DSG that's been trashed a bit due to a failing mech in it that wasn't fixed quickly enough.

[dparm]

What you don't understand is the "feeling" that this clunk causes. It's not normal... trust me on that one. Unless you've experienced it, you can't understand how fairly obvious it is that it's not normal. There's a difference between a click into gear and a bang/clank into gear. This is pretty specific to a failing mech in the S4 DSG or a DSG that's been trashed a bit due to a failing mech in it that wasn't fixed quickly enough.

If it's banging into gear, then yeah, something is FUBAR. Did it get the 30k fluid change as Audi recommends? Mine didn't change drastically afterwards, but low-speed engagement was quieter.

[Wreckm]

About to hit 30k but trans fluid should not be the problem for banging at a stop.

At times it doesn't bang as hard but then out of no where its like you get hit.

[SwankPeRFection]

If it feels like you got rear ended, then the mech is going out. 2010? Mech issues? The problem only happens when the DSG is at certain temp ranges. This is why it's sometimes hard to duplicate, however Audi does have a test procedure lined up to check for these issues. It involves knowing the temp of the DSG and running certain tests while in various drive modes and gears. Based on what the computer fires back with on the adaptation tests and noises/feel they pick up on. Unfortunately, getting the techs to run through all this is near impossible unless they flat out see the violent behavior themselves initially or they've done the work before and they believe you enough to really dig deeper and finally find it if it's mild.

[Wreckm]

Got a call from my dealer, Replacing the entire mech unit they say. Waiting for results.

[IanCH]

You guys have sufficiently scared me. Sent my car to the shop today for a DSG fluid change ($435 parts&labor) and and oil change. I don't have any signs of a problem but my car does have 75k and I just got it 3 days ago.

Thinking about getting the DSG tune from GIAC, as the GIAC rep on here told me it will make shifts smoother which is a good thing.

[Wreckm]

I don't have any signs of a problem but my car does have 75k and I just got it 3 days ago. .

Romp on it for a quarter tank. The tranny has to come to I think above operating temp because it never happened AT operating temp its always later on after I give it some go.


Got my car back last night. Feels great I was pushing it and coming to stops everything downshifts smooth. They replaced the mechatronic unit.

OFFTOPIC question. Any of you b8 2010 or any b8 not .5 Have different color lids on your headlights?
I also took the car in to replace the headlights because one beam was white and one was blue but it is the same crap when I picked my car up last night.

[SwankPeRFection]

You guys have sufficiently scared me. Sent my car to the shop today for a DSG fluid change ($435 parts&labor) and and oil change. I don't have any signs of a problem but my car does have 75k and I just got it 3 days ago.

Thinking about getting the DSG tune from GIAC, as the GIAC rep on here told me it will make shifts smoother which is a good thing.

You should have added a filter to that DSG fluid change. They normally don't do the filter as well, but with 75k on the odo, it would have been a good thing to do that too. You have to ASK for it because it's not called for, but insist on it.

[220013047]

Insist is correct. First, I wanted to say thank you to SwankPeRFection for the continuous guidance throughout my issue. Second, I am getting a new transmission since the replacement of the mechatronic unit did not solve the problem. I clearly remember a post where SwankPeRFection was taking poll for mechatronic unit symptoms based on climate differentiation and a lot of members here were just bashing this guy for trying to do something nice for everyone out there having these problems. After the mechatronic unit was replaced, my vehicle continued to experience the clunking noise, but today the outside temperature was 36 degrees and I could not reproduce the same clunking noise. So clearly, the outside temperature plays into this issue in my opinion and the poll was definitely a plus to summarize these problems.
The Audi field Technician noticed a hard shift between first and second and he stated that this was not normal. Also, he pointed that the transmission was leaking oil, which was documented in the replacement of the mechatronic unit. I had my videos to support the continuous noises which, I think, helped my case. He did not mention anything about the clunking noise, just admitted that it is not normal.
I will share the detail from the transmission replacement invoice once I get the car back.
Thanks again to all that provided their direction and opinions on this problem.

[220013047]

Let’s revive this tread again. So, as promised, I wanted to provide an update on my transmission DSG problem. I met and spoke to the field Audi technician and customer service managers and they gave the go ahead for a new transmission unit. Based on our conversation, I was under the impression that the swap would fix the clunk noises when shifting between gears in standstill position, but this is not the case. I drove the car and there are still the same symptoms as before a quiet clunk noise when moving between reverse and direct and the gear disengage after you stop in S mode only. Please note that the temperature was warm when I picked up the car. Before, I posted that the clunk noise was not there when the temperature was cold or very cold during the meeting with the Audi folks.
Audi customer service called and asked how the car was. I told them the above and said I will take another video of the clunk noises and send over before I call the dealer to make another appointment.
Can anyone help me understand why there would be continuous clunk noises after the entire transmission was replaced and the software was updated? Do you think that the drive shaft or something else is causing this noise? I thought that when moving the gears, you should only feel the engagement of the drive train and nothing else.
I would really appreciate anyone’s help.

[SwankPeRFection]

There should be a click, but not a loud one. All your videos showed a pretty substantial sounding one along with a small jolt feel in the drivetrain. Is it still like this or softer? Unless they didn't replace the trans and just did something else or maybe you got another trash trans or rebuild, I'd say something is up, but I dunno. Post another video, but it's kind of hard to tell when not in person.

All I'm saying, expect the same type of linkage sounds as a manual trans in some situations, but there should not be any loading of the drivetrain feeling at all because the clutches should be open until you let up off the brake.

[220013047]

Below are four videos in order of repair service. Before and after Mechatronic unit replacement and after transmission replacement with car driven and not. I understand that there may be a small clunk, but again, why the clunk would only occur when the car is substantially driven under 36F or limited driving over 50F. Video 1 and 2 were taken in temperature over 50F and 3 and 4 were taken in temperature under 36F. Pretty much the same symptoms before and after the transmission replacement. When I met with the Audi people the outside temperature was under 36F and I did not have a chance to drive the car extensively before our meet. Both the customer service and field technician witnessed that there were no clunk noises what so ever. How is all of this possible before and after mechatronic replacement and transmission replacement? It looks that the clunk noise comes from the transmission where the plastic belly pan is.

1st video link before replacement of mechatronic unit. Outside temperature over 50F
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fWO8Vo5ogmU
2nd video link after replacement of mechatronic unit. Outside temperature over 50F
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DizQe-5-4xA
3rd video link after transmission replacement and car not driven. Outside temperature below 37F
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ITDTGF-qCfM
4th video link after transmission replacement and car driven for over 20 minutes. Outside temperature below 37F
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lAt_2ZqYTDY

[SwankPeRFection]

2,3,4 are all normal. 2 is just a tad loud, but 3 & 4 are normal. You will hear that click when you flip into the opposite gear from where you were prepped before. It's reengaging the R & 1 on the main clutch. The clunk is the trans flipping between those gears. You'd hear a similar one if another gear was selected and flipped on the same pack, but they are alternated.

Bottom line. Trans appears quiet and composed. Drive it. Seems fixed. The first video was self explanatory and it was pretty obvious to everyone. I think your problem now is that you're tuned into the shift noise and it still seems wrong to you. It's only wrong when it sounds and feels as bad as #1.

[levigarrett]

Below are four videos in order of repair service. Before and after Mechatronic unit replacement and after transmission replacement with car driven and not. I understand that there may be a small clunk, but again, why the clunk would only occur when the car is substantially driven under 36F or limited driving over 50F. Video 1 and 2 were taken in temperature over 50F and 3 and 4 were taken in temperature under 36F. Pretty much the same symptoms before and after the transmission replacement. When I met with the Audi people the outside temperature was under 36F and I did not have a chance to drive the car extensively before our meet. Both the customer service and field technician witnessed that there were no clunk noises what so ever. How is all of this possible before and after mechatronic replacement and transmission replacement? It looks that the clunk noise comes from the transmission where the plastic belly pan is.

1st video link before replacement of mechatronic unit. Outside temperature over 50F
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fWO8Vo5ogmU
2nd video link after replacement of mechatronic unit. Outside temperature over 50F
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DizQe-5-4xA
3rd video link after transmission replacement and car not driven. Outside temperature below 37F
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ITDTGF-qCfM
4th video link after transmission replacement and car driven for over 20 minutes. Outside temperature below 37F
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lAt_2ZqYTDY

My car makes the same noise as you have in video 4. Like Swank says, I think that's normal tranny noise. I hope at least.

I think there's a bit of a learning curve with the DSG. It does not behave or operate the way most of us are familiar with coming from traditional "automatic" transmissions. Mine feels a bit clunkier than my previous CVT of course and I remind myself that it's different system entirely.

[220013047]

I am happy with the results and thanks for the input. However, I still can't understand why no clunking noise when the temperatures are cold with the car not driven versus clunking noise when car driven longer in colder temperatures, as well clunking noise when car not or driven in temperatures above 50F. This is the question I have also posed to the Audi field rep and I am awaiting to receive their input.
Going back to the 2013 S4 that I drove, there were not clunking noises in temperatures above 50F. Again, I understand that the 8.5 has a redesigned transmission from the 8 model, but what causes this anomaly between the two types of transmissions?
I am not a mechanic and I just can state the facts. Sorry to drag this topic further. I will post the Audi response next week hopefully.

[SwankPeRFection]

All I can tell you is that I know the trans and mechatronic are sensitive to temperatures. I'm not sure if things are slowed down inside when it's not up to temp and then quicker as the temp goes up, but all I know is that with a manual trans, you can heart he linkage move around and gears engaged. I also know that with a manual, until it gets up to temp, it's a bit slower to engage gears, so the driver has to slow down on the gear changes to allow the synchros to do their job for a smooth shift and engagement. It's possible the same thing is happening here but in an automated way. Either way, don't be put off if you're driving around and the trans will sometimes make a small jarring shift change (kind of like when you shift in a manual at low rpms and then get back on the accelerator and there's that engagement judder because you shifted too low and you didn't let out on the clutch slower than you normally do/can at higher rpms without worrying about the judder because it's not felt). It's normal nuances and I can even duplicate them from time to time if I try and trick the TCM. When it's all said and done, it's a manual trans with a computer trying to drive it. The biggest problem with DSG is the computer is trying to determine what the next shift and engagement/shift speed should be based on vehicle speed, rpm, throttle input, etc. There is no way the computer will be as smooth as a human driving a manual trans because it cannot anticipate what the driver will do next. All it knows is that based on certain parameters, the next move is this or that, but if you decide to do something out of its programmed expectation, it'll feel like you're riding around with someone who's somewhat new to driving a manual. And that's the thing, humans can smooth out all these transitions because we know what's coming next and what we want to do, the driver is the one making the decisions, not someone telling you how to drive or what to do. In the sense of the TCM in the DSG, it's not the one driving the car, the driver is, so it cannot use AI to make its own decisions about when to accelerate or when to stop or when to downshift quickly. It has to wait on those instructions from you and then even when asked to do it, it still goes through it normal checks/balances to make sure that it really is what you may supposedly want based on what it's been taught via programming.

[abbyfaz]

Hi guys. Please check out my vid here of similar thing on my rs5 and let me know what you think. It is intermittent but happening more often. It has been worse too. The vid shows about 60 to 70% of what ive had. Its been so bad it has made the car jump before now. And yet at times its ultra smooth.
https://youtu.be/xiUFGxms-MQ

Thanks for your comments in advance.

[Francois]

Could il be a flywheel problem ?

My car (122,000 Km) has a kind of rumble noise in park only. When I go to drive, reverse or sport, no sound.
I went to the dealer and they said they have to replace the flywheel, CPO free of charge.
The part is unavalable in America, it will take a least 10 day to get it.

Is somebody experience that problem ?