Long time coming (GTRS project)

[GOODBYNAAIR]

PHOTOBUCKET SUCKS!
At some point Ill try to update the pics... 12/14/17

Hey all



So I have been collecting parts for about a year for a larger turbo set up more power. The one I found was a GTRS I know why not get a 71r. I Got a great deal on the GTRS elim and manifold + other parts so could not pass it up. Another GTRS thread sorry. Im just looking for and tips on what others have done and any good places to get the last few parts. hope you enjoy the progress.


what I have , 2001 AWM 1.8T QMT
- GT2860 elim
- 3'' 034 inlet, 3'' maf
- 034 fual rail
- ATP Exhaust manifold port and polished
- Injectors Bosch EV 14 550cc
- Tuning from Dave@motozaperformance, car running smooth and holding 22 lbs
- 3''RAI tp and 2.5 exhaust
- Evoms FMIC samco pipping
- IE drop in rods
CM FX400 240mm + 19 LWFW died at 20k 2/2/18
- TTV FW with B7 RS4 lunk clutch OEM PP and disk. 15lb FW 2/2/18
- boost gauge, oil pressure gauge
- BBK boxster calipers, 330mm with 2 piece ECS rotors HPS pads
- S4 rear brakes hawk HPS pads
- 034 Density control arm kit
- short shifter
- ST coils
- Forge 008 DV with mid level spring in it.
- SS Braided oil and coolant turbo lines
- SAI / vac line delete
- Apikol snub mount
- Stern motor mounts
- New piston rings
- Super tech valves ect all that
- Machined head ect
- Fresh Tbelt, gates belt WP ect
- FSI coils and adapters
- Bosch Tri-Electrode plugs
- 01A 5spd Trans from a 2002 b6
- SS breaded clutch line
- UPS Motorsports metal slave cylinder(worth every pennie )


*Edit and updated as of 2/2/18^^ ****


I have most of the hardware/ gaskets I need, but still need oil and coolant lines because of time motor on its way out of the car, looking at psi concepts kit.


This is the car. I would like to be done in about 3 weeks if all goes well. All maintenance is up to date too.

Day one just got her


I have more ^^ older pic

this is the start of things
Picked up 2nd hand but new parts all of it for a deal


FX400


Turbo






Feel free to give any advice.

thanks for looking and any comments
%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%


Added 6/17/16 summer set up!

[demonmk2]

You'll love first and second gear with this turbo.

[Seerlah]

Good stuff. I suggest making your own oil and coolant line kit. Use Summit Racing or Jegs. Best prices at quality. Stay away from ebay junk unless they are known brands like Earl.

Oil feed:
4 an ss braided hose
m12x1.5 to 4 an adapter
.035" oil restrictor with m11x1 to 4 an flare
(2) 4 an hose end fittings (you need to choose how you want to configure your setup, so choose straight, 45*, 90*, etc accordingly)
crush washer

Oil return:
1.8t oil drain adapter (should have 1/2 npt threads)
1/2" npt to 10 an 90* adapter
10 an braided hose
GT oil drain adapter for turbo (you can get ones with a 10 an male on them already, which is what you will run your oil drain hose size in)
(2) 10 an hose end fittings (once again, choose angles accordingly)
OEM gasket on oil pan
GT gasket on turbo (for drain adapter)

Coolant feed:
(2) m14x1.5 to 6 an banjo adapter (to save you the trouble on this one: http://www.summitracing.com/parts/uis-8021550/overview/)
6 an braided hose
(2) 6 an hose end fitting of your choice (I suggest straight)
crush washers

Coolant return:
m14x1.5 to 6 an banjo adapter (same as above)
6 an braided hose
(2)6 an straight hose end fitting
Another 6 an hose end fitting on the turbo banjo at the angle of your choice (I suggest straight)
6 an to 3/8" barb
clamps (you cut the stock line and clamp the barb fitting in. I suggest using fuel line clamps here)

Anybody want to correct me if I posted anything wrong or am missing anything. Kind of out of it right now.

[GOODBYNAAIR]

Thanks Seerlah I will most likely be going with what you posted. I will do some more sourching to see if anything is missing just to be sure as you said, but looks good.

[GOODBYNAAIR]

Just a up date I have everthing discontinued other than trans and motor mounts and a few other small things. I will get the cherry picker from my friend this weekend and its all coming out.

[Seerlah]

If taking out the engine I highly suggest you upgrade your rods now. You'll regret it later if you don't.

[melomandn]

If taking out the engine I highly suggest you upgrade your rods now. You'll regret it later if you don't.

I would definitely agree with this

[newdie]

If taking out the engine I highly suggest you upgrade your rods now. You'll regret it later if you don't.

I would definitely agree with this

-Will have IE drop in rods

lol

[GOODBYNAAIR]

Thanks but no worries im on it lol ^^^

[howardfootball]

You didn't tell me you were doing rods. And this couldn't have waited another week? There's an autocross in Saturday! Lol. And maybe this will get Jon to start making progress with his car. Also, do you have a catch can Mark? I'm working on making one at work for the GTI. Let me know if you want one and I'll make another one.

[Royal769sr]

Good stuff. I suggest making your own oil and coolant line kit. Use Summit Racing or Jegs. Best prices at quality. Stay away from ebay junk unless they are known brands like Earl.

Oil feed:
4 an ss braided hose
m12x1.5 to 4 an adapter
.035" oil restrictor with m11x1 to 4 an flare
(2) 4 an hose end fittings (you need to choose how you want to configure your setup, so choose straight, 45*, 90*, etc accordingly)
crush washer

Oil return:
1.8t oil drain adapter (should have 1/2 npt threads)
1/2" npt to 10 an 90* adapter
10 an braided hose
GT oil drain adapter for turbo (you can get ones with a 10 an male on them already, which is what you will run your oil drain hose size in)
(2) 10 an hose end fittings (once again, choose angles accordingly)
OEM gasket on oil pan
GT gasket on turbo (for drain adapter)

Coolant feed:
(2) m14x1.5 to 6 an banjo adapter (to save you the trouble on this one: http://www.summitracing.com/parts/uis-8021550/overview/)
6 an braided hose
(2) 6 an hose end fitting of your choice (I suggest straight)
crush washers

Coolant return:
m14x1.5 to 6 an banjo adapter (same as above)
6 an braided hose
(1)6 an straight hose end fitting
Another 6 an hose end fitting on the turbo banjo at the angle of your choice (I suggest straight)
6 an to 3/8" barb
clamps (you cut the stock line and clamp the barb fitting in. I suggest using fuel line clamps here)

Anybody want to correct me if I posted anything wrong or am missing anything. Kind of out of it right now.

Well there is all the answers I need. =)

[GOODBYNAAIR]

You didn't tell me you were doing rods. And this couldn't have waited another week? There's an autocross in Saturday! Lol. And maybe this will get Jon to start making progress with his car. Also, do you have a catch can Mark? I'm working on making one at work for the GTI. Let me know if you want one and I'll make another one.

Autox would be out of the picture even if I wanted to my stock clutch on its last leg. Yeah I need a catch can thats on my list of stuff to do. If you want to make one ill test it out for you.

[mysman]

Good stuff. I suggest making your own oil and coolant line kit. Use Summit Racing or Jegs. Best prices at quality. Stay away from ebay junk unless they are known brands like Earl.

Oil feed:
4 an ss braided hose
m12x1.5 to 4 an adapter
.035" oil restrictor with m11x1 to 4 an flare
(2) 4 an hose end fittings (you need to choose how you want to configure your setup, so choose straight, 45*, 90*, etc accordingly)
crush washer

Oil return:
1.8t oil drain adapter (should have 1/2 npt threads)
1/2" npt to 10 an 90* adapter
10 an braided hose
GT oil drain adapter for turbo (you can get ones with a 10 an male on them already, which is what you will run your oil drain hose size in)
(2) 10 an hose end fittings (once again, choose angles accordingly)
OEM gasket on oil pan
GT gasket on turbo (for drain adapter)

Coolant feed:
(2) m14x1.5 to 6 an banjo adapter (to save you the trouble on this one: http://www.summitracing.com/parts/uis-8021550/overview/)
6 an braided hose
(2) 6 an hose end fitting of your choice (I suggest straight)
crush washers

Coolant return:
m14x1.5 to 6 an banjo adapter (same as above)
6 an braided hose
(1)6 an straight hose end fitting
Another 6 an hose end fitting on the turbo banjo at the angle of your choice (I suggest straight)
6 an to 3/8" barb
clamps (you cut the stock line and clamp the barb fitting in. I suggest using fuel line clamps here)

Anybody want to correct me if I posted anything wrong or am missing anything. Kind of out of it right now.

Nice of you to put that together, thanks.

[Believer]

Good stuff. I suggest making your own oil and coolant line kit. Use Summit Racing or Jegs. Best prices at quality. Stay away from ebay junk unless they are known brands like Earl.

Oil feed:
4 an ss braided hose
m12x1.5 to 4 an adapter
.035" oil restrictor with m11x1 to 4 an flare
(2) 4 an hose end fittings (you need to choose how you want to configure your setup, so choose straight, 45*, 90*, etc accordingly)
crush washer

Oil return:
1.8t oil drain adapter (should have 1/2 npt threads)
1/2" npt to 10 an 90* adapter
10 an braided hose
GT oil drain adapter for turbo (you can get ones with a 10 an male on them already, which is what you will run your oil drain hose size in)
(2) 10 an hose end fittings (once again, choose angles accordingly)
OEM gasket on oil pan
GT gasket on turbo (for drain adapter)

Coolant feed:
(2) m14x1.5 to 6 an banjo adapter (to save you the trouble on this one: http://www.summitracing.com/parts/uis-8021550/overview/)
6 an braided hose
(2) 6 an hose end fitting of your choice (I suggest straight)
crush washers

Coolant return:
m14x1.5 to 6 an banjo adapter (same as above)
6 an braided hose
(1)6 an straight hose end fitting
Another 6 an hose end fitting on the turbo banjo at the angle of your choice (I suggest straight)
6 an to 3/8" barb
clamps (you cut the stock line and clamp the barb fitting in. I suggest using fuel line clamps here)

Anybody want to correct me if I posted anything wrong or am missing anything. Kind of out of it right now.

Does this list apply to the full frame 2871r also? I would assume both turbos use the same CHRA right?

[GOODBYNAAIR]

Do to the wait for the cherry picker.. I picked up an important tool for the project and im sure my friends who will be helping with it will find it useful as well. cheers!

[Seerlah]

Universal for CHRAs besides Comp Turbo. They use nominal pipe thread on the CHRA versus metric sizes. And the list above only applies to the 06A. But the only difference should be the coolant feed on the block itself. 058 and 06A are different. What you do for the 058 is cut the line and use a fuel line clamp with a 6 an to 3/8" barb fitting...I think. Never really looked at the coolant feed on an 058.

[GOODBYNAAIR]

got some stuff done today

[M-Hood]

Universal for CHRAs besides Comp Turbo. They use nominal pipe thread on the CHRA versus metric sizes. And the list above only applies to the 06A. But the only difference should be the coolant feed on the block itself. 058 and 06A are different. What you do for the 058 is cut the line and use a fuel line clamp with a 6 an to 3/8" barb fitting...I think. Never really looked at the coolant feed on an 058.

Not 100% true, it is for the Triplex but the Comp journal bearing uses a metric thread (16mm x 1.5) for the coolant ports and metric threads for the oil drain flange bolts (8mm) .

[zandrew]

My comp uses 3/8 NPT coolant port. Its a CT3 frame and too my knowledge all there ports wether oil or coolant are NPT. I actually goofed up and assumed the coolant ports on mine were the same as T3 and bought the wrong parts for it.

[DeltaAlpha9]

Damn, I want a keg/mini fridge combo for the garage now...

[GOODBYNAAIR]

Damn, I want a keg/mini fridge combo for the garage now...

yeah I have no complaints its sweet!




I am surprised of how my stock clutch looks better than I expected . It would not even hold 8lbs on the k03 stock tune ?

[zandrew]

Clutch may have just needed bled a bit. I am STILL running my stock clutch which has 131xxx miles on it and it holds all 16 lbs of boost I am currently throwing at it.

[M-Hood]

My comp uses 3/8 NPT coolant port. Its a CT3 frame and too my knowledge all there ports wether oil or coolant are NPT. I actually goofed up and assumed the coolant ports on mine were the same as T3 and bought the wrong parts for it.

Well again your knowledge isn't right at all. lol

Here is 2 pictures I took of a CT Journal Bearing turbo sent to me directly from Comp.

This is a picture of that turbo with a 16mm to -6 AN banjo bolt with fitting


Picture of that 16mm banjo bolt



This is a picture of that same exact turbo with a straight 16mm to -6 AN fitting.




But yeah if you just can't believe me feel free to call up Comp Turbo and ask them for yourself so they can give you the exact same answer I have now posted twice in this thread. lol

Here is the info I have actually figured out using my own 2 hands on multiple Triplex and 360 (Journal Bearing) turbos directly from Comp.

Fittings for CT Triplex
1/8 NPT - Oil Feed
3/8 NPT coolant
3/8 - 16 x .75 flange bolts


Fittings for CT JB
1/8 NPT - Oil Feed
16mm x 1.5 - Coolant
8mm Flange bolts

[zandrew]

Well again your knowledge isn't right at all. lol

Here is 2 pictures I took of a CT Journal Bearing turbo sent to me directly from Comp.

This is a picture of that turbo with a 16mm to -6 AN banjo bolt with fitting


Picture of that 16mm banjo bolt



This is a picture of that same exact turbo with a straight 16mm to -6 AN fitting.




But yeah if you just can't believe me feel free to call up Comp Turbo and ask them for yourself so they can give you the exact same answer I have now posted twice in this thread. lol

Here is the info I have actually figured out using my own 2 hands on multiple Triplex and 360 (Journal Bearing) turbos directly from Comp.

Mike I am confused. On their site they list their turbos using NPT for both standard bearing and ball bearing. Is the entry level use the metric and the higher level use all NPT? Or is their site goofed up? I was pretty sure when I bought my wrong water lines I found online someone using them on their Comp and I assumed it was right.

[M-Hood]

Mike I am confused. On their site they list their turbos using NPT for both standard bearing and ball bearing. Is the entry level use the metric and the higher level use all NPT? Or is their site goofed up? I was pretty sure when I bought my wrong water lines I found online someone using them on their Comp and I assumed it was right.

I guess they just don't have all of that info on their site, which is why I tend to post that info. The triplex cast aluminum CHRA coolant ports are tapped with NPT threads while the Journal Bearing cast iron CHRA coolant ports are tapped with metric threads. I have learned this stuff first hand while putting together fittings and test fitting them into the Comp stuff I end up with in my hands.

Another one is that the Triplex cast CHRA needs to use the longer oil feed restrictor fitting instead of the short one since the threads in the CHRA are deeper with a blank area up toward the top. The shorter restrictor fitting tends to only work on the triplex Billet CHRA which has threads right at the top. At first all I ever used was the longer version and then CT started offering a shorter version too.

[BThomas220]

M-Hood and zandrew, Congrats on shitting up another thread.

P.S. Do the admins even regulate here?

[redline380]

M-Hood and zandrew, Congrats on shitting up another thread.

P.S. Do the admins even regulate here?

i don't see "shitting up". i see clarification on coolant port sizes which may be out of place in this thread, yet relevant nonetheless.

as for op, i gotta ask how you made you decision on tuning.

[GOODBYNAAIR]

On the tuning side I have talked to Dave about my set up and what im doing with the car. He can do everything I want and not alot of poelpe have tested his BT file. Not alot that I could find especially on the b5s. There is alot of info from the b6 group on motoza but even that is mostly FT and stg 1 stuff. The price is good and just want to see how it competes with the other big names that every one uses on the gtrs turbo set ups. All said and done I will be going to a dyno to get some real numbers. No 300awhp butt dyno lol

[Seerlah]

My butt dyno said I was at like 260whp when running the SMIC. Never really ran it right with my FMIC. When I did, was not really thinking about the butt dyno. But it def picked up power. Enjoyed the added power enough to blow the turbo . Should not have happened in the first place, though.

[zandrew]

M-Hood and zandrew, Congrats on shitting up another thread.

P.S. Do the admins even regulate here?

Sooo is your off topic post not shitting the thread up yourself or shitting up threads reserved for those that disagree (though I wasn't disagreeing just remarking the issue I personally encountered)?


I have a Nissan S13 turbo which is really nothing more then a journal bearing GT2554 that I have modified the compressor with a GT2860RS compressor. I am thinking about swapping it in for a bit till I get my 2.0 finished since I am terrified I am going to grenade this motor. My point is and suggestion is go ahead and build the motor the way you want to now even if takes a bit longer. You don't want to put it back together and end up regretting not doing this or doing that. I threw some of mine back together since I needed my car and the issues that have arose from it are going cost me more money and more time. There is so many things I wish I had just sucked it up and did when I had my car apart that I now regret and it prohibts me from enjoying my car to the fullest.

[M-Hood]

M-Hood and zandrew, Congrats on shitting up another thread.

P.S. Do the admins even regulate here?

Oh I am sorry I didn't know posting "correct usable info" on this forum wasn't allowed now.

[GOODBYNAAIR]

M hood, not to sound like a noob but will I need to prime my turbo with oil before I install/ start the car?

[catbed]

M hood, not to sound like a noob but will I need to prime my turbo with oil before I install/ start the car?

Yes, disconnect spark and fuel and crank it over till oil comes out the feed line.

[M-Hood]

M hood, not to sound like a noob but will I need to prime my turbo with oil before I install/ start the car?

You can if you want but it isn't really needed seeing all turbo's end up with oil/fluid in them when they are built. This is why most new turbos have plugs put into the oil inlet/outlet or end up in a bag so the fluid doesn't get all over the inside of the box.


Have to understand that pretty much every time you start your engine there isn't going to be oil in the CHRA and it only takes a few seconds for the oil to get pumped into it.


I didn't prime any of my GT35's including the one that went on my car in 2003 and that turbo still has no shaft play at 10 years old.

[zandrew]

Mike just because you can't detect shaft play does not mean it does it not have shaft play. Actually the ball bearing turbos have more shaft play then jb turbos when not at operating temperatures. If in fact you do not have shaft play it would be cause for alarm.

[M-Hood]

Mike just because you can't detect shaft play does not mean it does it not have shaft play. Actually the ball bearing turbos have more shaft play then jb turbos when not at operating temperatures. If in fact you do not have shaft play it would be cause for alarm.

My point oh smart one was that my 10 year old GT35r that just ran 11.0 at 127.64 mph in the 1/4 mile at high elevation is still working perfectly without the need of priming it with oil when it first went on the car and every time it went back on after sitting in the garage months at a time. It even did that with a chewed up exhaust wheel. Yeah I am really concerned that it has no shaft play seeing it looks to be working just perfectly fine in the "real world". Thing was that turbo was sitting at a shop in Oregon for about a year, was then sent back to me and I put it back in the car just the way it was and started the car up. lol

[zandrew]

My point oh smart one was that my 10 year old GT35r that just ran 11.0 at 127.64 mph in the 1/4 mile at high elevation is still working perfectly without the need of priming it with oil when it first went on the car and every time it went back on after sitting in the garage months at a time. It even did that with a chewed up exhaust wheel. Yeah I am really concerned that it has no shaft play seeing it looks to be working just perfectly fine in the "real world". Thing was that turbo was sitting at a shop in Oregon for about a year, was then sent back to me and I put it back in the car just the way it was and started the car up. lol

From you Mike I will take that as a compliment

As long as you cover the oil ports if it is a used turbo prior to install it will be fine without priming though I have always squirted a bit down the oil inlet when mountng it. You don't want dust and dirt to get in it and if you feel you have you hould flush it out. If you think about when you shut the car down the oil drains out of the turbo then and you don't prime it before every startup.

They used to make a thing called a turbo saver which is nothing more then an oil accumalator for the turbo itself. It gets mounted inline with the turbo feed and is a good idea for race motors incase you lose oil pressure or even blow the motor it can protect the turbo long enough to save it.

[GOODBYNAAIR]

What do you guys think about plugs for this setup. I am looking into getting Bosch Tri-Electrode copper. Its what I have in my car now and ran great with the APR stg 2 tune.

[redline380]

fsi colis and bkr7e plugs

[M-Hood]

What do you guys think about plugs for this setup. I am looking into getting Bosch Tri-Electrode copper. Its what I have in my car now and ran great with the APR stg 2 tune.

They will work with that turbo, BT and a BAT. I run the F6DTC plugs in my car.