Long time coming (GTRS project)

[DeltaAlpha9]

Your car wears those wheels much better than mine does haha. Looks great.

[ray4624]

I also noticed you are running the 3" inlet in your turbo. What are you using for a tip?

[GOODBYNAAIR]

Lookin good! Those calipers look amazing behind those wheels. I'm digging the license plate choice too lol

Yup. Thats good stuff.

I like!

Your car wears those wheels much better than mine does haha. Looks great.

to all ^^^ Thank you !

I also noticed you are running the 3" inlet in your turbo. What are you using for a tip?

I am running 034 3''

034

I have every port caped off but the DV

[ray4624]

Oh nice. There were no fitment issues? I'm not sure what is left on my tip. I've got my Evap and Pcv deleted. Still have n75 and dv

[GOODBYNAAIR]

I cut about a 1/2 inch off the turbo side of it. and pushed it all the way down by the frame to miss my heat shield. if you just mess with it a little it fits nice.yeah N75 is there but you can run that in or out. I am running 3'' maf and 3'' AEM Dryflow filter

[ray4624]

So you don't have to have the n75 routed into the tip? I may just make my own and move the dv over to the hotside

I'll be running a vr6 maf

[GOODBYNAAIR]

No you dont have to have it in the tip it really does nothing. I am running my DV off the hot side too that is something I want to change. To pull it right off before the TB on the cold side.

[ray4624]

I meant cold side lol I need to go to bed. Good to know about the n75. I'll be using a synapse synchronic bov that is closed at idle so it works with these cars. This way there won't be anything that has to be routed back to the tip.

[disturbed_audi]

Did you get the wrench from home depot? I like the set up

[Seerlah]

Looks good Mark. I was wondering, are the bleed screws supposed to point upwards on those calipers? Did you check for fitment on each side? Thinking you may have them on the wrong sides.

[GOODBYNAAIR]

Looks good Mark. I was wondering, are the bleed screws supposed to point upwards on those calipers? Did you check for fitment on each side? Thinking you may have them on the wrong sides.

Thanks,

I looked into the brakes and from what I can tell they are installed right. This being said I did not find any documents on them but just this is how everyone else has them installed too

Big-Brake-Kits

[GOODBYNAAIR]

I have had a flex pipe leak for about as long as i've had the GTRS in the car it seems. Over the weekend I had some help from a friend pull the exhaust and time to weld on a new flex pipe, its that easy ...NOT!



I did not weld the nut on I could not at this point I just cross threaded it into the un threaded part of the stud. heated it up with torch and dropped some wax on the stud, heat will pull in the wax making it easier to remove in theory.



If it did or not does not matter because I got it out!


Now I have fresh flex and no leaks I forgot how good the car sounds [:D

Of course with just the down pipe on I had to hear it so quick (cell phone) vid.

[BrucexL33]

holy crap nice vid! Sounds like a monster.

[GOODBYNAAIR]

holy crap nice vid! Sounds like a monster.

thanks I wish I could run it all the time but its to much for just driving around.

[GOODBYNAAIR]

Hey guys it's been awhile I have not really been on much and have missed it, but life has been crazy and time gets away some times. anyway Im trying to get wrenching again and to start I fear the Trans will be next on the list of things to do! what fun this will be. So about 6 months ago I notice that going into 2nd and 3rd when pushing the car would some times hang up and not let me get into gear right away. this has gotten worse and now 4th will to it too. If i dont wait and try to force it into gear they will grind not a fan of that so for the most part now I drive my car at 50% or less other then a single 3 gear pull or something. I dont believe this is a clutch problem Im think maybe I have damaged my gear synchronous?

I did not think I was making enough power to do something like this if this is the problem. All new gear oil ect during build so that only has 5,000 miles and the trans just hit 100k on its total life.

what do you guys think or has anyone hear of this before? Let me know

Thanks

[melomandn]

Would not expect that with a GTRS. What type of gear fluid did you use?

[GOODBYNAAIR]

Would not expect that with a GTRS. What type of gear fluid did you use?

moblie 1 full syn 75w 90

[M-Hood]

Fluid might be a little too thick for the weather your in at this time. How much power the car makes doesn't really effect the syncros, those just wear over time and high amounts of gear changes. Another thing you can do is try bleeding the slave or maybe even seeing if a longer slave rod will help if the disk is some how dragging. Could even be an issue of the disk not sliding freely enough on the splines of the input shaft.

[GOODBYNAAIR]

I will start with the slave. thanks mike

[GOODBYNAAIR]

Update,

I did the bleeding following this DIY ( Clickyy )witch seems right, I did it twice.

Still the same thing going shifting over 4000 rmps does not want to go out or go into gear right away. at lower RPMs its a little notchie.

trow out bearing maybe? IDK

thanks guys

[GOODBYNAAIR]

Guys I have been searching for 2 hours and cant find anyone who has had a similar problem to me lots of other clutch/slave ect problems sure. But known of the point to an answer for my fix? Any ideas Im almost ready to put the trans and look over everything! thats just going to take up some time and if i can find the fix/problem without doing that It would be a life saver. when I get home from work ill try to look at what linkage I can see and check my trans fluid just to be sure.

Any thoughts would be appreciated!

[Believer]

Have you ever replaced the clutch fork? Not sure 100% on the symptoms of a failed one but that's a piece of the puzzle too.

[GOODBYNAAIR]

No did change the fork or the slave when i did the clutch

[BlueBoostedAudi]

Have you ever replaced the clutch fork? Not sure 100% on the symptoms of a failed one but that's a piece of the puzzle too.

Ive never seen or read of the clutch fork breaking on the 01A trans.
What did u torque ur flywheel bolts too?
While u r parked, running and on flat pavement with e'brake off push clutch in and rev it to 5-6k, does the car move?
Did u put a dab of grease on the input shaft of trans?
Make sure u chk the bolts on linkages are tight, one is 8or10mm allen socket and the other is10mm socket
Chk the fill plug and also the plug right behind the slave cyl. These plugs can be used to align the shifter so it will face str8 up and down. Does ur shifter sit in middle and st8 up n down?
I use audi trans fluid after goin thru 5 trannys so far and tried 3dif fluids before switching back to audi fluid.
Do a 2-3rd gear pull and try pushing clutch all the way to the floor.

[GOODBYNAAIR]

Ive never seen or read of the clutch fork breaking on the 01A trans.
What did u torque ur flywheel bolts too?
While u r parked, running and on flat pavement with e'brake off push clutch in and rev it to 5-6k, does the car move?
Did u put a dab of grease on the input shaft of trans?
Make sure u chk the bolts on linkages are tight, one is 8or10mm allen socket and the other is10mm socket
Chk the fill plug and also the plug right behind the slave cyl. These plugs can be used to align the shifter so it will face str8 up and down. Does ur shifter sit in middle and st8 up n down?
I use audi trans fluid after goin thru 5 trannys so far and tried 3dif fluids before switching back to audi fluid.
Do a 2-3rd gear pull and try pushing clutch all the way to the floor.

Yes everything looks straight all 8 and 10mm are tight. checked my fluid its a little low maybe 1/2'' below the fill port. I got new fluid and was going to flush it but stopped, the moble 1 I got says its gl5 (not gl4 and gl5) but not gl4 so I know that the gl5 is what you want in the rear diff but is that ok in the trans as well ?

[GOODBYNAAIR]

SH!t just found this im stupid I put gl5 in my car after the build!

http://www.westfalia.org/community/s...-transmissions
Just read it all info is from 2000 maybe out dated


more info
http://www.audizine.com/forum/showth...-GL-5-gear-oil

[GOODBYNAAIR]

So after putting in the right fluid I think the damage is done shifting somewhat better but the yellow mettle in my synchronous is just to far gone. only thing I can do rebuild that will suck or buy a used tranny. what do you guys think and know of any good site/places to get a 01A trans ? other than the yard cuz who know what that's going to be like.

[B5nDisciple]

Just caught up on your thread...very nice!

[Believer]

I saw you post on a trans ad on Vortex - were you able to secure a new one?

[GOODBYNAAIR]

I saw you post on a trans ad on Vortex - were you able to secure a new one?

Not yet, I cant find any local so I have one in PA and in NY im looking into, I just have to make sure is worth the price and drive to pick it up.

[GOODBYNAAIR]

Now im back on track made the trip to NJ over the weekend and picked up a nice 5 speed out of a 2.8 car. im going to pull everything again just to check it all out and fix replace anything I dont like. also going to pick a metal slave and braided lines for it.

I still don't have a catch can so think Ill pick one of them up too any suggestions ?



[IMG][/IMG]

[GOODBYNAAIR]

hmm so this is what blackstowns lab had to say. this did site for 6 months before i sent it cuz i forgot about it.


[IMG][/IMG]

[GOODBYNAAIR]

update time,

got some work done today! pulled motor are trans. looking at old trans and clutch have a few questions?

I have the steal slave going in new trans mounts and any other little things that need to be done.

look at the photos and tell me what you think of this "oil" film on the inside of my bell housing ? bad trow out bearing seal ?

also the clutch i have has about 7k on it no track time maybe a few hard launches does that ware look normal ?

I will be ordering parts this week and putting it back together next weekend with the new trans.

Thanks for you import.

old trans


see film ?


clutch










again let me know if you see any thing I should be worried about.

Thanks

[Believer]

Did you mean input shaft seal? Looks like it could be the culprit. Did you inspect the real main seal to make sure it's not from there? Might be hard with the flywheel still on

Sent from my LG-D850 using Tapatalk

[nynoah]

its one of two things: rear main or input shaft. The input shaft rarely goes bad. However installation of the rear main can be a pain because its easy to not get it perfect. I would replace the rear main just encase.

P.S. I am now living in Baltimore and I am bringing my Audi A4 from Denver out here. So one more modded B5 in Bmore.

[GOODBYNAAIR]

Did you mean input shaft seal? Looks like it could be the culprit. Did you inspect the real main seal to make sure it's not from there? Might be hard with the flywheel still on

Sent from my LG-D850 using Tapatalk

I will pull the flywheel off and take a look at things thanks

its one of two things: rear main or input shaft. The input shaft rarely goes bad. However installation of the rear main can be a pain because its easy to not get it perfect. I would replace the rear main just encase.

P.S. I am now living in Baltimore and I am bringing my Audi A4 from Denver out here. So one more modded B5 in Bmore.

Sweet I now live in Fredrick MD that's about 40 minutes from Bmore but not to fair for a meet.

One other thing is I dont have a catch can im dumping it under the car is it possible some of the spray could get in the bell housing?

Ill post after I get home from work and get the flywheel off

Thanks all.

[GOODBYNAAIR]

Ok so here it is let me know what you think? I did not clean or wipe anything off after removing the FW.

Next I have ARP FW bolts I know you can "reuse"when, But should I or have others broke them on the 2nd install?



how do you know if is bad any tests i can do?




Side note little DYI power steering cooler on a budget. Total spent was $28 ( VS $82.50 ) mainly because i got 10' of hose i only need like 5'. 30 min of my time looking through the junk yard which i don't mind

Junk yard cooler from a 2001 Jeep grand Cherokee. ( always wanted to see what "Mopar" power was like lol 5+WHP )

3/8'' x 10' id hydraulic hose $19.99 advance auto was cheaper than online. could not believe that.

2001 Jeep grand Cherokee cooler $8 ( other yards may charge more or less)

[Believer]

That RMS does not appear to be leaking to me. Things look relatively dry around there. I feel like it would be super obvious if it were leaking. Maybe the input shaft seal really was leaking.

Sent from my LG-D850 using Tapatalk

[GOODBYNAAIR]

That RMS does not appear to be leaking to me. Things look relatively dry around there. I feel like it would be super obvious if it were leaking. Maybe the input shaft seal really was leaking.

Sent from my LG-D850 using Tapatalk

Thanks yeah unless im missing something it looks good to me too.


(pilot bearing remove trick) Im sure most of you know this or the grease trick. Bread worked great for me took about 4 minutes and was super easy just don't scar anything up.

[GOODBYNAAIR]

update and help needed Got everything back together and now I have this sound could I have damaged the pilot bearing when i installed the new one?



whats new / different
slave cylinder + line
used trans
new pilot bearing
2 new trans mounts

Everything when back the same




thanks for any feed back