Project 4.2 A4 has officially begun.

[tinytim]

I did swap out another injector and the same thing happened. I removed the spark plug and as soon as I powered up the power feed to the injector circuit, I could watch the cylinder fill with fuel. I am going to check everything in the injector circuit next time I'm there. I went hard for 7 hours on it today and was feeling to defeated to continue. Quite frustrating!

The alternator is a bit tight in there. I will most likely swap on the v6 one.

[bhusted]

Which cylinder is it? It isn't cylinder #2 is it? According to ddillenger that injector is the one I have to swap around at the ECU for me to run the ME7.1.1 box. I wonder if somehow that one is switched around in your harness.

[tinytim]

It is #2.

[bhusted]

I wonder if you have an earlier engine harness. Did the harness come with the block/ECU? I don't think that there are any external indicators to identify the ART harness from the AWN. Below are the modifications ddillenger says need to be made to use the newer ECU.

First things First. VSS.

Verify that Pin 54 of the ecu goes to connector a180. From there it goes to the blue 32 pin plug on the cluster, and connects to pin 3 which is white and blue. Verify continuity between these two pins (ECU pin 54, Blue plug pin 3) to ensure the ecu receives the proper VSS signal!


Now, on the ecu side, large plug remove the wires from pins 30, 47, 48, 81. If you don't remove these, the car will not start and if it does it will run like crap. One is for the CEL, but it'll run without for now. I can walk you through hooking that up later.

The wire in pin 23 needs to be moved to 19. That is cyl 2 injector which is different on 01 ecus.

You must supply power to pin 21 on the large ECU plug. The 2000 ecu has no wire here, as it didn't have an immobilizer. You MUST run a diode inline for the trigger for pin 21. I prefer to connect it to fuse 7 (2001-up use this fuse), but any Key-on power source works, including terminal 75x. Then, add a diode. Radioshack sells them, I use this one:

http://www.radioshack.com/product/in...ductId=2062591

Without it, when you turn the key off the car will continue to run for a second or two. This is a big deal because it throws a plethora of codes as everything is shut down. Diode solves that problem.

Now, the small plug on the 2000 ecu. pin 115 has a large wire going into it. Follow it down till it splits. Those are cam adjusters - ground signal trigger. Bank 1 (passenger side) has to go to pin 115 and bank 2 (driver side) goes to 120. Basically the 2000 runs both cam adjuster grounds from one pin, we want to split them to both pins like the 2001 ecu has. If you don't want to do this, I can remove diagnosis in the flash, there are no drawbacks to doing this.

Pin 104 ecu side, small plug needs to go to 48 on the large ecu plug. Intake manifold changeover valve.

Then, we do the clutch switch install.

http://breakoutmotorsports.com/index...clutch-switch/

If you've already done this, skip right to the next step, verifying the clutch switch works properly:

VCDS measuring block 060. It should show your cruise control condition bits. Basically a string of 0's and 1's. When the clutch is out the 3rd bit (from the right) should be 0. push the clutch in, it should change to 1. If it's reversed, you have the wrong model clutch switch. Some are backwards. Not having this properly makes the car rev hang, and makes the driving experience VERY jerky.

http://wiki.ross-tech.com/wiki/index...asuring_Values

This seems scarier than it is, but fear not. The entire process should take an hour!

Any questions?

[tinytim]

Well that is extremely helpful! I will do all of that next time I am there.

[bhusted]

Do you think that you have the ART harness by mistake then?

[tinytim]

Absolutely, the fact that I had to add power to pin 21 to get it to communicate via vagcom and injector 2 was wide open anytime I powered up yesterday is a pretty good sign. At least I have a guide for fixing the issue.

[ddillenger]

Injector 2 is pinned out wrong with the 01 ecu sir.

[tinytim]

Injector 2 is pinned out wrong with the 01 ecu sir.

Pinned out wrong when using a ME7.1.1 on an ART harness?

I looked through some of my wiring stuff and everything points to an ART harness and my ecu is for a AWN. If all I need to do is whats mentioned above (#124), that's not to bad.

I just remembered this from yesterday, probably should even tell you guys... I spent a good half hour trying to find the damn OBD port... behind the ash tray in the back seat?? Are ya kidding me??!?!?

[ddillenger]

If you use an 01-up ecu with the 00 harness, you have to move the wire for injector 2 as listed in my post above. Failure to do so will result in your injector staying open (as you've observed). If there's any doubt, post your ecu number and I'll tell you what year it is.

[bhusted]

I just remembered this from yesterday, probably should even tell you guys... I spent a good half hour trying to find the damn OBD port... behind the ash tray in the back seat?? Are ya kidding me??!?!?

The early years had them there. At some point they switched to the driver's knee panel. My 1999.5 still has the hole in the rear ashtray for the OBD port, but nothing in it. I think the ash tray cover has the check engine symbol or something similar on it too.

[tinytim]

I think the ash tray cover has the check engine symbol or something similar on it too.

It does! That's how I found it.

Also I am sure now that I have a 2000 ART harness and 2001 ME7.1.1 A6 4.2 ECU.

[tinytim]

After weeks of attempted starts and repeated failure... I'm lost.

Does anyone know of a super basic wiring set up that will allow the engine to start? I don't care if I have to have race car style switches to turn each circuit on in the car... I am so desperate to get this thing running and I have tried everything I can think of with no progress. It will crank but not sun. I ahve jumped all the main systems to ensure they are getting power, still no start. I can see my ECU with VCDS so I know that's powering up.

Anyone have any suggestions? If I had the money I would get a DBW chassis and start over... if I only knew what I was getting myself into prior to buying that car...

[bhusted]

Is the ECU giving you any codes?

Start by checking the basics:
-fuel (you should hear the pump run by just turning the key to "run")
-spark (with the coil on plug system, I'm not sure if you can check spark in the traditional manner by pulling a plug and laying it on the block)

[tinytim]

Well it appears I over looked something very simple... as it usually goes... looks like my engine speed sensor signal is not properly getting to to ECU. I am going to sort it out next time I am there. I really hope that's all it was. I want to drive this thing so so bad!!

[LINDW4LL]

That very well could be it. Crank but no start?

[bhusted]

Well it appears I over looked something very simple... as it usually goes... looks like my engine speed sensor signal is not properly getting to to ECU. I am going to sort it out next time I am there. I really hope that's all it was. I want to drive this thing so so bad!!

Make sure to use the aluminum spacer for the Engine Speed Sensor or it will run for a short time and then quit when the flywheel wears away at the sensor. Ask me how I know....

[tinytim]

That very well could be it. Crank but no start?

Yeah cranks over fine... just wont start. Hopefully it will tomorrow.

Make sure to use the aluminum spacer for the Engine Speed Sensor or it will run for a short time and then quit when the flywheel wears away at the sensor. Ask me how I know....

I will definitely double check that.

[Crispy222]

You should be able to monitor the engine speed while cranking both on VCDS and also your tach should come off zero if the ecu is getting the signal.

[tinytim]

Even with the crank sensor hooked up to the ecu I am getting no signal. Definitely has ground and the the wire running to the ecu is good. Does it HAVE to run through the cluster for it to run? Its the old 96 cluster in the car.

[bhusted]

No need to run through the cluster. Are you sure that the sensor is okay?

[s2the4]

Even with the crank sensor hooked up to the ecu I am getting no signal. Definitely has ground and the the wire running to the ecu is good. Does it HAVE to run through the cluster for it to run? Its the old 96 cluster in the car.

Check if there is any resistance in that crank senor, my money is on you need a new one.

[tinytim]

OK guys. Now I am about to share something with you, I know none of you really know me, but I don't want this to make you think any less of me. I have made a huge mistake, the most shameful mistake I have made in my 15+ years of working on cars. Long story short, at this point, there is no crank sensor on the car. That being said, let me defended myself.

When I got the motor with a "complete" harness... it wasn't so complete. A few sensors missing and a few plugs where broken. I thought I replaced them all. The 12v 2.8 didn't use a CKP mounted on the trans like just about every other VAG out there (good old 96 chassis). SO in all fairness, I had no idea it was missing. I guess after all my hours spent trying to figure out whats wrong, I some how overlooked the fact that the FU*KING sensors is not even on the damn motor!!!!!!!! I mistook the VSS for the CKP... why... I have no idea... but I did. I am embarrassed, ashamed, and I have dishonored my family name.

This hurts to hit "Submit Reply".

[bhusted]

OK guys. Now I am about to share something with you, I know none of you really know me, but I don't want this to make you think any less of me. I have made a huge mistake, the most shameful mistake I have made in my 15+ years of working on cars. Long story short, at this point, there is no crank sensor on the car. That being said, let me defended myself.

When I got the motor with a "complete" harness... it wasn't so complete. A few sensors missing and a few plugs where broken. I thought I replaced them all. The 12v 2.8 didn't use a CKP mounted on the trans like just about every other VAG out there (good old 96 chassis). SO in all fairness, I had no idea it was missing. I guess after all my hours spent trying to figure out whats wrong, I some how overlooked the fact that the FU*KING sensors is not even on the damn motor!!!!!!!! I mistook the VSS for the CKP... why... I have no idea... but I did. I am embarrassed, ashamed, and I have dishonored my family name.

This hurts to hit "Submit Reply".

It happens to all of us at some point.

I once replaced the rear main seal on a Volvo 850 turbo. It's a real b#@%ch of a job as the transmission has to come out of the driver's wheel well. Long story short, I got the tranny out and back in. I was feeling pretty proud of myself. Started it up and no more leak, but the alternator wasn't charging. So what did I do? Bought a new alternator. I had forgotten to hook up the cable that goes from the charging post of the alternator to the starter and then to the battery. New alternator didn't work either until I hooked that up. I'll never forget that.

Does the '96 trans have the provision for the sensor? ie: is there a hole in the trans at about 10 o'clock when facing the back of the engine?

[s2the4]

OK guys. Now I am about to share something with you, I know none of you really know me, but I don't want this to make you think any less of me. I have made a huge mistake, the most shameful mistake I have made in my 15+ years of working on cars. Long story short, at this point, there is no crank sensor on the car. That being said, let me defended myself.

When I got the motor with a "complete" harness... it wasn't so complete. A few sensors missing and a few plugs where broken. I thought I replaced them all. The 12v 2.8 didn't use a CKP mounted on the trans like just about every other VAG out there (good old 96 chassis). SO in all fairness, I had no idea it was missing. I guess after all my hours spent trying to figure out whats wrong, I some how overlooked the fact that the FU*KING sensors is not even on the damn motor!!!!!!!! I mistook the VSS for the CKP... why... I have no idea... but I did. I am embarrassed, ashamed, and I have dishonored my family name.

This hurts to hit "Submit Reply".

Tim don't worry about it, sometimes we all have our blonde moments Glad to hear that was one of the easiest fixes ever!

[AudiSport12]

I had a fuse mysteriously blow on my Tahoe and it wouldn't start. Went out and bought a new starter, installed it. Still no crank. Figured out after it was just a blown fuse. $150 gone. Oh well, live and learn.


Glad to see you found the fix though. I want to see some running videos!

[Mad Cow]

I had a fuse mysteriously blow on my Tahoe and it wouldn't start. Went out and bought a new starter, installed it. Still no crank. Figured out after it was just a blown fuse. $150 gone. Oh well, live and learn.


Glad to see you found the fix though. I want to see some running videos!

I once caused $200 of damage while changing windshield wipers, I feel your pain.

[tinytim]

Does the '96 trans have the provision for the sensor? ie: is there a hole in the trans at about 10 o'clock when facing the back of the engine?

Yes the 01a has the hole for it.

Thanks for not making me cry guys

[Korben007]

Yes the 01a has the hole for it.

Thanks for not making me cry guys

Dont feel bad. The '96 model year has caused me lots of work with a b5. How about I used a 96 flywheel and trans in my 2.8 manual swap. Found out the hard way that year flywheel is not compatible with the CPS on anything else. Back out came the engine.

[bhusted]

Dont feel bad. The '96 model year has caused me lots of work with a b5. How about I used a 96 flywheel and trans in my 2.8 manual swap. Found out the hard way that year flywheel is not compatible with the CPS on anything else. Back out came the engine.

This brings up an important question. Tim, are you using the 12v flywheel or did you source a 30v flywheel? If the '96 does not use the CPS, then the flywheel maybe an issue if you're using it.

I would have had an extra sensor for you if I had not forgotten about the aluminum spacer. One of them was destroyed in the discovery of the spacer.

[tinytim]

This brings up an important question. Tim, are you using the 12v flywheel or did you source a 30v flywheel? If the '96 does not use the CPS, then the flywheel maybe an issue if you're using it.

I would have had an extra sensor for you if I had not forgotten about the aluminum spacer. One of them was destroyed in the discovery of the spacer.

I am using a 30v flywheel. Got a CKP that matched the plug on the ART harness. Should be here in a few days. I pray to the car gods this things fires right up once I get the sensor in.

[DeltaAlpha9]

I had a fuse mysteriously blow on my Tahoe and it wouldn't start. Went out and bought a new starter, installed it. Still no crank. Figured out after it was just a blown fuse. $150 gone. Oh well, live and learn.

I did this last summer on my Integra. Wouldn't start after being on the charger all night so I replaced the starter. Turns out my battery was hooped and the charger was essentially a paper weight with a cord and blinking lights. So long as you learn better trouble shooting because of it, it isn't a waste of money.

[bhusted]

Making any progress Tim?

[tinytim]

I have been very busy with work the last few weeks. I did receive the crank sensor. I will be back at it this upcoming week. Got a bunch of guys coming to our mountain bike park for filming this weekend so I didn't end up with any days off. Its all good though... it's just part of an awesome job.

Sent from my SCH-I545 using Tapatalk 4

[tinytim]

...I just cant win with this thing. So now I have found out that the 96 trans has the hole for the crank sensor but no way to bolt it on.



As you can see here with the newer 01a... its machined and has a bolt hole:




Why did I buy a 96....

[Mad Cow]

Why did I buy a 96....

I told you '96 is a really weird year, it's random stuff like this that's gonna make it difficult. Couldn't you just shove the sensor in though? Maybe a bead of silicone around the edge so it doesn't wiggle loose.

[Believer]

You could get a tap kit and just create the threads you need

[tinytim]

the sensor goes in...



I guess I could just glue it in place... The ridge that holds to o-ring on the sensor is the only thing that keeps it from fully seating. If I remove that and seal it into place... it just might work.

You could get a tap kit and just create the threads you need

Unfortunately the trans case doesn't have the casting where the bolt hole would be... the support fins are a possibility for drilling and taping, but they are quite thin.

[Believer]

Unfortunately the trans case doesn't have the casting where the bolt hole would be... the support fins are a possibility for drilling and taping, but they are quite thin.

Ah, i see how it goes in now. I misunderstood how the sensor seated in - I now see the hole in the 01A that yours is lacking.

Is there room to drill a hole next to the fin and use a threaded post, spacers and bolt combo to fasten it?

[bhusted]

I guess I could just glue it in place... The ridge that holds to o-ring on the sensor is the only thing that keeps it from fully seating. If I remove that and seal it into place... it just might work.

Good time to find an 01E...

If you do decide to glue it in, just be careful with the flywheel clearance. I ruined one sensor because I left out a small aluminum spacer. Get it where it needs to be and use some epoxy to secure it.