Balance Shaft Delete, is it worth it?

[vvenom800tt]

I have the IE plate, a 1.8 filter adapter and a sandwich cooler for sale

How much? Pm me

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Also im jealous of your Omega, good taste

[vvenom800tt]

I don't see why not. It won't be water cooled but I doubt that'll be a problem if you mount an external radiator in an area with decent airflow.

Thats what i was thinking, or i could run both

[Charles.waite]

Thats what i was thinking, or i could run both

You could probably retrofit a 1.8t coolant pipe. Or wait, the 2.0t's oil cooler doesn't have coolant hoses going to it right? it gets coolant fed to it from the block right?

[Denio24]

You could probably retrofit a 1.8t coolant pipe. Or wait, the 2.0t's oil cooler doesn't have coolant hoses going to it right? it gets coolant fed to it from the block right?

On the 2.0t coolant gets fed to it through the oil filter bracket then goes out one port on the oil cooler to the lower coolant return pipe.

[Charles.waite]

Coolant gets fed to it through the block then goes out one port on the oil cooler to the lower coolant return pipe.

Use the 1.8T sandwich oil cooler with the filter adapter. That way you still have a factory water cooled setup.


AKA this guy:

Yea having replaced that in my b6 I know what it looks like and how it works. Winkyface.bmp

But that's fed from the upper coolant line and returns to the upper coolant line (I think. Maybe it goes back to the Res). Anyway you'd have to fab a nipple onto the existing hardline to give it a coolant feed since the block has no connection to it.

[aluthman]

Yea having replaced that in my b6 I know what it looks like and how it works. Winkyface.bmp

But that's fed from the upper coolant line and returns to the upper coolant line (I think. Maybe it goes back to the Res). Anyway you'd have to fab a nipple onto the existing hardline to give it a coolant feed since the block has no connection to it.

You use the hose that attaches to the 2.0 cooler for one port, and connect the other port to the H2O port on the IE adapter plate. Easy peasy.

[aluthman]

How much? Pm me

- - - Updated - - -

Also im jealous of your Omega, good taste

Let me get everything together and see what exactly I have and I'll shoot you a pm tonight.

[Charles.waite]

You use the hose that attaches to the 2.0 cooler for one port, and connect the other port to the H2O port on the IE adapter plate. Easy peasy.

Ahh. I didn't know the adapter plate had that provision. Makes sense. Carry on.

[BSTD_B7]

What's the verdict on this kit? Anyone used it? I don't want to get it and end up with oil pressure issues after getting my BT build finsihed. Thanks in advance.

[rallyb7avant]

Ok so did this ever get sorted @mec?

I have deleted the balance shafts but that’s it.
Stock 2.0t oil pump
Stock 2.0t filter housing and cooler.
Low oil pressure at warm idle.

Luke

[aluthman]

Ok so did this ever get sorted @mec?

I have deleted the balance shafts but that’s it.
Stock 2.0t oil pump
Stock 2.0t filter housing and cooler.
Low oil pressure at warm idle.

Luke

Have you verified it with a mechanical gauge? My electric gage had a bad sender that read about 10 psi low. I chased oil pressure issues for about a year before realizing it was actually fine and the gage was just off.

[canadianA4B7]

Idle RPM, oil grade manufacturer, elevation all seem to be the major issues.

880/900 rpm (other car confirmed 840/860 rpm), 0W-40 rotella T6 @ 300’ above sea no issues on 2 cars with 1.8 swap.

[MALMGRDC]

Ok so did this ever get sorted @mec?

I have deleted the balance shafts but that’s it.
Stock 2.0t oil pump
Stock 2.0t filter housing and cooler.
Low oil pressure at warm idle.

Luke

How did you delete the balance shafts?

[rallyb7avant]

Have you verified it with a mechanical gauge? My electric gage had a bad sender that read about 10 psi low. I chased oil pressure issues for about a year before realizing it was actually fine and the gage was just off.

I should hopefully have my hands on one Monday to get my pressures, I ordered a gauge but it wont be here for around a week.

[rallyb7avant]

How did you delete the balance shafts?

I cut out the gear that connects to the balance shafts. They’re still in there, they just don’t spin.

@canadiana4b7 I’m at 300m above sea level using a 5-30 break in oil right now but I’m still running the 2.0 pump

[rallyb7avant]

Idle RPM, oil grade manufacturer, elevation all seem to be the major issues.

880/900 rpm (other car confirmed 840/860 rpm), 0W-40 rotella T6 @ 300’ above sea no issues on 2 cars with 1.8 swap.

After doing a quick bit of reading it appears elevation doesn’t effect viscosity. I will be looking for a higher viscosity brake in oil though.

[Epic-A3]

In my build, I simply cut out the shafts and gears. Welded the rear holes shut where the shafts stick out the front.
My oil pressure light comes on after the engine is thourgly warmed up. Changed the sensor, and same result. I didn't convert my oil pump or filter housing.
Any help would be appreciated. 20190502_155910.jpeg

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[Charles.waite]

There are oil feeds to the balance shaft main bearings. You need to plug them.

[aluthman]

There are oil feeds to the balance shaft main bearings. You need to plug them.

This. It’s like trying to use a garden hose when there’s a big hole in it before the nozzle.

[Epic-A3]

Anyway you can show me which holes?

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[FatMongo]

In my build, I simply cut out the shafts and gears. Welded the rear holes shut where the shafts stick out the front.
My oil pressure light comes on after the engine is thourgly warmed up. Changed the sensor, and same result. I didn't convert my oil pump or filter housing.
Any help would be appreciated. 20190502_155910.jpeg

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Out of curiosity, how did you physically cut them out? As in what tool.blade did you use?

[Kevin C]

Anyone looked at this setup? Its a free wheel sprocket that gets fitted to the balance shaft drive. Super simple way to stop the balance shafts from spinning.


https://wasamotor.com/shop/vw-audi-s...ull-chain-set/

https://wasamotor.com/shop/vw-audi-s...2-0-freewheel/

[Charles.waite]

There was a guy who first posted that a few months back. Seems like a solid solution if you don’t mind losing the balance shaft effect.

[Epic-A3]

I used a 8 inch metal cutting blade. Had to make several cuts. You can see how close to the edge it gets in my picture. Then I hot tanked it to remove metal debris.

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[Epic-A3]

Can 1 of you guy identify the holes the need plugged to avoid oil pressure drop?

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[Theiceman]

Can 1 of you guy identify the holes the need plugged to avoid oil pressure drop?

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when you take the shafts out it is obvious, it is the ones feeding the journals.

[Epic-A3]

Can you use my picture and put an arrow pointing to the holes your referring to? I just don't want to weld shut or plug the wrong holes. This is the 1st I'm hearing about this. Sorry for my ignorance.

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[Theiceman]

Can you use my picture and put an arrow pointing to the holes your referring to? I just don't want to weld shut or plug the wrong holes. This is the 1st I'm hearing about this. Sorry for my ignorance.

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no as thewy are inside the journals and it does not show in your pic.

do a search, there is a pic here of a guy who tried to remove his balance shafts with his buddies blow torch. in the melted mess you can see the holes. not sure which thread it is though. one of the other guys might remember.

this will give you a rough idea ( another hack job )




you can see without the shafts these holes just pump out to atmosphere providing no back pressure.

[Epic-A3]

Ok thank you, that at least confirms it's in that housing and not the block. I will try to find a good pic and repost it for other's doing the same modification.

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[Kevin C]

The passage the needs to get blocked provides filtered oil from the block to the balance shaft unit. You will see a port coming of one of the main oil gallery that feeds the balance shaft unit. From memory it's closest to the second main bearing.

[Epic-A3]

Thanks so much. This build has been curve ball after curve ball... but it's what I signed up for.

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[Jayz691]

Thats why most people now opt for the freewheel. Simple swap of sprocket and done. The Wasa one use a SKF bearing(confirmed), so no worries of it going bad. Better quality and cheaper than the VIS knockoff. Though lots of people have used the VIS without issue. Good luck with your build.

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[Brillo]

The passage the needs to get blocked provides filtered oil from the block to the balance shaft unit. You will see a port coming of one of the main oil gallery that feeds the balance shaft unit. From memory it's closest to the second main bearing.

Put away your welding torch and do this. The main feed should be easy to determine. If you're unsure, feed some water (or oil) through and when you get the right one water will flow out the balance shaft bearing surfaces. Then tap a close fitting aluminum plug into the housing feed hole flush to or slightly below the surface and your're done. It doesn't even have to be a perfect seal. Let's face it, plenty of oil flows through the system when the balance shafts are intact so a small amount of leakage is of no consequence.

[Theiceman]

Put away your welding torch and do this. The main feed should be easy to determine. If you're unsure, feed some water (or oil) through and when you get the right one water will flow out the balance shaft bearing surfaces. Then tap a close fitting aluminum plug into the housing feed hole flush to or slightly below the surface and your're done. It doesn't even have to be a perfect seal. Let's face it, plenty of oil flows through the system when the balance shafts are intact so a small amount of leakage is of no consequence.

that sounds like a better plan

[Theiceman]

Thats why most people now opt for the freewheel. Simple swap of sprocket and done. The Wasa one use a SKF bearing(confirmed), so no worries of it going bad. Better quality and cheaper than the VIS knockoff. Though lots of people have used the VIS without issue. Good luck with your build.

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this is ONLY valid as a totally preventative measure.
if you are already suffering from a hemorrhaging balance shaft assembly this will do nothing.

[Jayz691]

this is ONLY valid as a totally preventative measure.
if you are already suffering from a hemorrhaging balance shaft assembly this will do nothing.

Well yeah, ya do it in the first place. Too late now, I guess. Just saying, thats why most people just go with them instead of cutting shit up. Makes more sense. Or if theyre still intact, if your having balance shaft issues(like if the journals are worn, etc) it stops them from engaging.

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[Theiceman]

Well yeah, ya do it in the first place. Too late now, I guess. Just saying, thats why most people just go with them instead of cutting shit up. Makes more sense. Or if theyre still intact, if your having balance shaft issues(like if the journals are worn, etc) it stops them from engaging.

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human nature is most people wont pull the sub frame to drop the pan , to remove a balance shaft assembly, to give them more vibration, for a problem they are not having.

that said though i totally agree. i would put this on before "cutting the shafts" if i was in there doing other engine work anyway.

[Jayz691]

human nature is most people wont pull the sub frame to drop the pan , to remove a balance shaft assembly, to give them more vibration, for a problem they are not having.

that said though i totally agree. i would put this on before "cutting the shafts" if i was in there doing other engine work anyway.

But LOTS of people do. As you said, its a preventitive measure for a common issue.

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[Epic-A3]

So there are a total of 5 oiling holes that need filled after the shafts are removed.
I'm choosing to tig weld them shut. You can barley get the right angle, but it's doable. I'll take pictures and post them as I rebuild my engine over the next month or so.
Thanks to all who helped me sort out what caused me to lose oil pressure, which in turn took out number 3 rod. So I'll be doing a full rebuild to ensure no metal debris is still in my oiling system.

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[Theiceman]

yeah i thought the angle might be tight.