What Went Wrong With Your B6 Today?..

[KAPPAZILLA]

There is no lower radiator hose on the passenger side. Check the turbo coolant supply and return lines.

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Be sure to get a hella sensor. If not you may be replacing it again in a few months.

Locate the problem of my car pissing itself. There is small slash on the turbo coolant line so now I have to replace it...


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[Spike00513]

back half of my headliner decided to take a shit on me today.

Same. Doesn't seem to be leaking water from the drains (yet?) but it hangs onto passengers' heads, and flops around in the wind. Not a good look. Wonder if I can find some small black retainer pins to hold it up in the meantime, until I figure out a plan to fix it. Whether I re-upholster the original board, or find an extra one to do at my convenience.

Hop in my car, glance over at the cup holder, and the finish has bubbled up. Grrrr

Look at the storage slot, that's doing it to. 😒

I heard they changed paint formulation in B7.
Apparently B6 one can bubble up, at least especially if touched after wearing skincare products like hand lotion, etc.

Pulled into my apartment garage and smelled burnt coolant which has me going 'uh oh'. Parked and popped hood to see smoke and brown liquid by turbo area. Then I took a peak under the car to see brown coolant which led me to check my expansion tank and voila, brown coolant!

So at 150k, would it be a blown head gasket? And/or oil cooler? Possibly a bad turbo coolant line?

What do you guys think?

That early? Ouch

Goto autozone. Rent a combustion gas tester kit. Viola.
Been there done that. Oil cooler for me thank god.

I've heard of this

[oaybar007]

Coolant flange. 139k mileage on the original. Replaced the sensor in 2013 and the flange wasn't leaking then so left it be. I regret not changing it as I had a spare flange on hand but it was the middle of summer and really hot. Guess it's time to replace it now. Reminder to always do your preventative maintenance!

[jacobsen]

Coolant flange. 139k mileage on the original. Replaced the sensor in 2013 and the flange wasn't leaking then so left it be. I regret not changing it as I had a spare flange on hand but it was the middle of summer and really hot. Guess it's time to replace it now. Reminder to always do your preventative maintenance!

Check the heater hose couplet as well

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[oaybar007]

Check the heater hose couplet as well

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Will do! I haven't gotten into the repair yet, but hopefully this week.

[jacobsen]

Will do! I haven't gotten into the repair yet, but hopefully this week.

You see that metal clamp on there? You can't tighten or replace it. Those plastic parts disintegrate and I think if you're going to replace your flange you should replace the coupler as well while you're in there. If it isn't broke I guess you can keep it on there period but I would go as far as to say break it off and put a new one on there. Mine literally cracked off leaving the coupler part on the flange and the plastic Port inside the hose. I bought a replacement coupler and stuck it in there with a regular screw down clamp but just don't tighten the clamp too much or it will warp and leak, ask me how I know. Just snug is fine

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[Nollywood]

I discovered my right-hand tail lamp has water ingress. I've ordered a replacement.

[imnuts]

Driving on the highway, guy next to me runs over something metal. I saw it shoot right for the side of my car, then the driver's side rear is suddenly sitting about 2" lower. I slow down and pull off onto the side of the road. Fortunately I was at an exit on ramp and there was plenty of room. If it were even a half mile further down the road I would have been screwed as there is no shoulder.

Pull all of the stuff out of the car since it's packed for tailgating later. Get the spare, widow maker, and tools out. After 15-20 minutes total, we were back on the road. The wife asked about calling AAA, but I didn't feel like waiting. Hardest part was getting the stupid plastic covers off of the lug bolts. After we get to the parking lot later this afternoon, I'll check the tire pressure, but the spare is reasonably well inflated since I check it every few months. I'll also check the torque on the lug bolts tomorrow at home.

Time to go tire shopping. I'm trying to decide if I want to get 2 or 4. I was thinking I may need new tires this fall, so that decision may have been moved up a few months.

I'm not sure why everyone hates the jack though. I've used it 3-4 times, and only had an issue with it once on a bank. As long as you have a flat and solid surface that is relatively level and you take your time, it should work fine. It isn't as good as a floor jack, but it's good for changing a flat in an emergency.





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[jacobsen]

So we have to rely on a flat level perfect surface for the thing to work? I'm sure there are dozens of people who've used the damn thing and almost died on perfect surface. My car was on a perfectly flat concrete surface when I used it and I had to continuously reposition it to learn how it was going to bend and flex as I was raising the car up and I could not reach a point where I could use the damn thing without it bending and flexing to the point of having fear that it was going to break.

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[Spike00513]

I regret not changing it as I had a spare flange on hand but it was the middle of summer and really hot. Guess it's time to replace it now. Reminder to always do your preventative maintenance!

Is that all you need? I saw it's $25 on GAP. I think it comes with O-rings.

I'm not sure if I can just re-use everything else, such as the temp sensor.

Check the heater hose coupler as well

You see that metal clamp on there? You can't tighten or replace it. Those plastic parts disintegrate and I think if you're going to replace your flange you should replace the coupler as well while you're in there. If it isn't broke I guess you can keep it on there period but I would go as far as to say break it off and put a new one on there. Mine literally cracked off leaving the coupler part on the flange and the plastic Port inside the hose. I bought a replacement coupler and stuck it in there with a regular screw down clamp but just don't tighten the clamp too much or it will warp and leak, ask me how I know. Just snug is fine

Wonder what kind of clamp that is, ear-type (one-time-use) like all the other small ones in the engine bay? I'll see if I can find that, and order a new one, as well as a new coupler as per your suggestion, since it's plastic.

I discovered my right-hand tail lamp has water ingress. I've ordered a replacement.

New?

It can't be re-sealed or anything? Maybe hide a desiccant pack inside?

[Wet0willy01]

Wheel bearing hell on her car.



Did some things to hopefully seal my washer fluid tank from leaking meth

[jacobsen]

Wheel bearing hell on her car.



Did some things to hopefully seal my washer fluid tank from leaking meth

Unbolt the wheel bearing and put a steel shaft in the center where the axle would normally go. Give it a couple bangs with the sledgehammer and it will come right off. Cheap easy effective.

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[Pswish]

Leak detection pump (i think so far) made some weird chattering noise before starting yesterday and today, no other problems accompanied this noise during starting.

[NYDCB]

Coolant leak is still an issue and I was gently reminded just now, as I saw a pitter patter trail of pink leading up to where I just parked. I have never seen it drip this quickly. Ironically, 15 minutes prior when I pulled off, there was no puddle at all. I put a catch cup underneath. Ugh. I want to DIY this fix but it has a higher difficulty level than all of the other repairs I've done. Assuming this is jplug/flange/coupler related, what's the most a mechanic will charge?

[jacobsen]

Coolant leak is still an issue and I was gently reminded just now, as I saw a pitter patter trail of pink leading up to where I just parked. I have never seen it drip this quickly. Ironically, 15 minutes prior when I pulled off, there was no puddle at all. I put a catch cup underneath. Ugh. I want to DIY this fix but it has a higher difficulty level than all of the other repairs I've done. Assuming this is jplug/flange/coupler related, what's the most a mechanic will charge?

Don't limit Yourself by your perception of difficulty. Just do these things as they come along and you will cease to think that way. These cooling system components are pretty easy to replace.

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[Timtheguru]

Literally just replaced my J-plug this weekend, would recommend the metal $29 one from ECS (I went for an OEM one, but thought about looking for a metal one afterwards).. just gotta take out some hoses, throttle body and alternator.. I also did the thermostat housing (and glad that I did) when replacing the J-plug. I was done in about 2 hours.. but I have every tool I could possibly need, coolant, a place to drain it etc etc.. also spent some time cleaning.

[Pswish]

Checked out my N80 valve to troubleshoot the LDP from chattering during cold start. Think i need to replace the check valve

[NYDCB]

Is this the best instructions for the coolant flange fix? http://bd8ba3c866c8cbc330ab-7b26c6f3...allationR1.pdf

[Bmase]

Took the intake manifold off to do mine having all that room made it much easier. The jplug disintegrated as i pulled it out and had to knock it out from the inside. Also went for the metal one from ecs and glad i did after seeing what the plug actually did. also replaced crank case vent as it was cracked while I was in there After all that now the water pump is also leaking Have everything to do it besides the time!!

[Timtheguru]

Is this the best instructions for the coolant flange fix? http://bd8ba3c866c8cbc330ab-7b26c6f3...allationR1.pdf

For the coolant flange it looks pretty good, but that is not the thermostat housing, and J-plug is no where near that.. http://www.audizine.com/forum/showth...at-Replacement

[jacobsen]

Is this the best instructions for the coolant flange fix? http://bd8ba3c866c8cbc330ab-7b26c6f3...allationR1.pdf

Looks like a good example, although I'd bet you can replace it without removing anything but the turbo supply line from the flange. If you can reach yer paw in there. I tested it out and I was able to touch both studs. If I can touch them I can get a mini ratchet or wrench on them. I'd pack the o-ring recess on both the head and flange and oring surface with oring grease to give it a protective layer from atmosphere, oil, ozone. Also check and replace the heater core quick connect coupler that attaches at the bottom. They crack and fail.

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[NYDCB]

^Thanks! Great info. I think I'm ready to go in!!!

For the coolant flange it looks pretty good, but that is not the thermostat housing, and J-plug is no where near that.. http://www.audizine.com/forum/showth...at-Replacement

Thanks! Was looking for that...

[4RingCrew]

A4 went into limp mode on my way to work yesterday. Last time this happened I disconnected the battery and let it sit for 15 minutes re-connected and everything was fine. This time didn't work... diagnosed as throttle body, full breather hose replacement and diverter valve.


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[SJorge3442]

Tried to start it last night after driving a mile home from work 30 minutes before. Was just cranking and cranking and cranking. After giving the starter a quick 20 seconds rest, I cranked it with the throttle on the floor and it started it. Not sure what that was about. Continued to start fine later on last night. I'm still nervous about why it did this.

[NYDCB]

^^

My car did that for a while. It was the CP sensor that fixed it. In the interim, turn the key and let the pump prime (I wait 7-10 secs) and it'll start up as it should, in my experience. Pull codes if you haven't already.

I dealt with it that way for months until the car would start to cut off while driving, which almost killed me...twice!

[Spike00513]

Tried to start it last night after driving a mile home from work 30 minutes before. Was just cranking and cranking and cranking. After giving the starter a quick 20 seconds rest, I cranked it with the throttle on the floor and it started it. Not sure what that was about. Continued to start fine later on last night. I'm still nervous about why it did this.

^^

My car did that for a while. It was the CP sensor that fixed it. In the interim, turn the key and let the pump prime (I wait 7-10 secs) and it'll start up as it should, in my experience. Pull codes if you haven't already.

I dealt with it that way for months until the car would start to cut off while driving, which almost killed me...twice!

Same. I think.
But the $7? replacement I got online from eBay or Amazon looked cheap, and the issue seemed to come back later again.

Maybe I should've used a different part? Or could it have been something else?
Another thing that seemed to work at least sometimes, was to open the hood and unplug the sensor connector (grey) to re-connect it. Me blowing on it like a Nintendo cartridge probably had no effect.

I heard prolonged use of the starter is not good and "burns it out" overheating it. It probably drains a chunk from the battery charge too.

Not sure if it's a fuel issue and I changed my filter a bit late. Not only that, but with some random on on eBay, yikes. Probably should've spent a bit more on a quality Kayser or KYG.

[jacobsen]

I got a counterfeit camshaft position sensor for my Galant on eBay. It was really simple to test it. The original sensor even though it was not functioning correctly anymore could hold several pieces of heavy paper onto the fridge. However the counterfeit sensor could barely hold itself to the fridge. So I forced a refund and got a new one for 40 bucks. Definitely get the OEM whatever it is.

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[SJorge3442]

^^

My car did that for a while. It was the CP sensor that fixed it. In the interim, turn the key and let the pump prime (I wait 7-10 secs) and it'll start up as it should, in my experience. Pull codes if you haven't already.

I dealt with it that way for months until the car would start to cut off while driving, which almost killed me...twice!

You know, I replaced that about 3.5 years ago as I thought it was a causing my starting problem, but in reality, my car wouldnt start cause the timing was off. I didn't get any codes yesterday, but I didn't check, but I do recall seeing a P0500 pop up recently which I thought was just a fluke. Must be time for that off brand crank sensor to shit the bed.

[Spike00513]

You know, I replaced that about 3.5 years ago as I thought it was a causing my starting problem, but in reality, my car wouldnt start cause the timing was off. I didn't get any codes yesterday, but I didn't check, but I do recall seeing a P0500 pop up recently which I thought was just a fluke. Must be time for that off brand crank sensor to shit the bed.

The blue part on the cam sensor(s) is probably cracked by now

[1BadB6Avant]

04 a4 b6 1.8t quattro Avant I have a whining noise in first gear and starting to happen 2nd gear what do you guys think. Synchros made in the clutch

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[Spike00513]

04 a4 b6 1.8t quattro Avant I have a whining noise in first gear and starting to happen 2nd gear what do you guys think.

I heard the front diff (open diff) can "go bad" if the car is coasted in neutral, such as at high speed downhill, rather than in gear. Because apparently it needs to be in gear, to pump fluid to keep it all lubricated with gear oil.

Manual gearboxes also have bearings inside of them.

I noticed rebuild kits such as JHM, seem to only have sealing O-rings, and replacement synchros (wear item).
But if I search rebuild kits on UK eBay, they also seem to include bearings.

Europeans seem less afraid to tear into their cars and do things like this.
They don't really complicate, question, or make a big deal out of it, they already know what it is and just do it.

Not sure if similar:
http://www.audizine.com/forum/showth...lightly-normal

[NYDCB]

Replaced my coolant expansion tank today on impulse, as it had been in my trunk for months. Love how I can actually see the coolant now lol. Damn those hose clamps though! Without the right tools, I had to improvise...

https://goo.gl/photos/5ieK7UGzjjqYm1QTA

I drove for about 30 mins without issue. I know it's only a matter of time...

[eljay]

So, my hatch didn't open today. I can hear the actuator working and making noise, but I guess it doesn't move far enough to release the latch. :(
Do I need a new actuator or does this one just need an adjustment if it's still kicking?

When I repaired my rear washer line and wiper motor and installed rear view camera I swore I will never remove the hatch trim ever again. Sounds like that promise will not hold. Sigh. Like I don't have a long enough list already.

[jacobsen]

So, my hatch didn't open today. I can hear the actuator working and making noise, but I guess it doesn't move far enough to release the latch. :(
Do I need a new actuator or does this one just need an adjustment if it's still kicking?

When I repaired my rear washer line and wiper motor and installed rear view camera I swore I will never remove the hatch trim ever again. Sounds like that promise will not hold. Sigh. Like I don't have a long enough list already.

My actuater hasn't worked in years, Sept for once..Masaybe twice if your lucky. It goes reergh and then it's still not open and subsequent reerghs fade soft each time til your left with nothing. I ordered a replacement but it was the wrong one. And the one I need is super expensive. Just like my desiccant bottle. There's a couple of cheap versions that don't fit my car. Mine is the one that's like 150

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[pablolizarraga]

So, my hatch didn't open today. I can hear the actuator working and making noise, but I guess it doesn't move far enough to release the latch. :(
Do I need a new actuator or does this one just need an adjustment if it's still kicking?

Maybe the actuator motor needs to be readjusted?
http://www.a4mods.com/index.php?page...nkRelease.html

My actuator doesn't even make a noise, but I know that the trunk harness has split lines.



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[OttawaWill]

So not today but just recently check engine light came on with codes 18080 and 18613. Cleared codes and light came back on within a day. Its just starting to get warm here and I've noticed that during normal driving, temp gauge stays around 140 degrees Fahrenheit but in stop and go traffic starts to creep up towards 230 degrees Fahrenheit.... Looks like a new issue that has found its way to the to of my list to address... Love my A4 but I find myself wondering whether it was the right time to buy it when my schedule is so tight and don't have much spare time for wrenching..

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[eljay]

Maybe the actuator motor needs to be readjusted?
http://www.a4mods.com/index.php?page...nkRelease.html

My actuator doesn't even make a noise, but I know that the trunk harness has split lines.



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Thank you. I may summon enough willpower to pull off the hatch lining again and inspect the actuator arm position etc.
MY2005 Avants came with a hatch handle without a key slot, so there's no way to mechanically unlock the hatch from the outside.

For the last 2 days, it opens on the first try after the car has been sitting all night or all day. On the second try etc., it doesn't work. :(
I hope it just needs an adjustment.

[SJorge3442]

Thank you. I may summon enough willpower to pull off the hatch lining again and inspect the actuator arm position etc.
MY2005 Avants came with a hatch handle without a key slot, so there's no way to mechanically unlock the hatch from the outside.

For the last 2 days, it opens on the first try after the car has been sitting all night or all day. On the second try etc., it doesn't work. :(
I hope it just needs an adjustment.

I've read the actuators get tired over time. Just last week my sedan trunk acutator got tired and I couldnt open my trunk twice in a row. Had to use the key the second time. This happened a few years ago and was fine since then, but now its back.

[NYDCB]

Someone flagged me down at a red light and told me smoke was coming from the right front/passenger side of the car. I didn't see/smell anything. Told the guy 'I know...' and pulled off. Got to my garage, was greeted with a low coolant warning on the DIS... Popped the hood and saw a near empty coolant tank! Against my better judgement, I opened the coolant reservoir to see if it was pressurized and sure enough...it was. Doing so sucked back up about 1/4 of the coolant that was circulating through the rest of the system. I assume whatever smoke they saw was due to coolant burning? I did rev hard right before hand... Ugh.

[VAGlover]

So not today but just recently check engine light came on with codes 18080 and 18613. Cleared codes and light came back on within a day. Its just starting to get warm here and I've noticed that during normal driving, temp gauge stays around 140 degrees Fahrenheit but in stop and go traffic starts to creep up towards 230 degrees Fahrenheit.... Looks like a new issue that has found its way to the to of my list to address... Love my A4 but I find myself wondering whether it was the right time to buy it when my schedule is so tight and don't have much spare time for wrenching..

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Waterpump or tstat.

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