Took off my winter wheels & one of the bolts is stripped - GRRRRR!

[jpenneck]

My winter wheels are Hartmann Reps and they came with those funky bolt heads that require a Spline key. I had Discount Tire mount the wheels & tires back in December when I got the car and they used the bolts that came with the Hartmann wheels. When I removed one of the bolts today, it was very tight & was squealing most of the way out. The first 1/4" of the bolt is totally stripped and the bolt hole on the rotor/hub is also damaged. Now I'm trying to figure out what to do as I can only get 4 bolts on to the rear right wheel. I will be talking to Discount Tire tomorrow to see what they say as I can only assume that they stripped the bolt or somehow crossed the threads on when installing the wheels.

In the mean time, does any know how safe it is to drive with only 4 bolts in one of the wheels for a short time ? I'm planning on driving the 5-10 miles to my dealer tomorrow morning...

[ActivS5]

You're totally fine driving with 4 bolts, just make sure they are the correct torque specs, but try to get the 5th bolt ASAP. Depending on how bad your hub is stripped, it may be able to be re-threaded without having to replace the whole hub.

[jpenneck]

You're totally fine driving with 4 bolts, just make sure they are the correct torque specs, but try to get the 5th bolt ASAP. Depending on how bad your hub is stripped, it may be able to be re-threaded without having to replace the whole hub.

Thanks for the info. As it turns out, one of my neighbors is the general managers for Discount Tire in my area and I gave him a call and he came by the house. He was incredibly helpful and he told me the same thing you just mentioned. The best part is that he told he would take care of whatever needed to be done to make it perfect again!

So, +1 to Discount Tire!

[ActivS5]

Thanks for the info. As it turns out, one of my neighbors is the general managers for Discount Tire in my area and I gave him a call and he came by the house. He was incredibly helpful and he told me the same thing you just mentioned. The best part is that he told he would take care of whatever needed to be done to make it perfect again!

So, +1 to Discount Tire!

Great news! Best of luck!

[NYSpeedRacer]

I'm anal about having my wheels hand torque and bolted on. Nearly all big box wheel/tire places uses an air gun to bolt the wheels up. Many times they'll mess up the bolts.


Sent telepathically

[B8_Jim]

I'm anal about having my wheels hand torque and bolted on. Nearly all big box wheel/tire places uses an air gun to bolt the wheels up. Many times they'll mess up the bolts.

I've gotten to be the same way after several bad experiences. Riding in my brother in-laws car when he had a flat and we had to change it. The lugs were on so tight he had to jump on the lung wrench to break them loose (he was 250+ at the time) - I stood on it and bounced with no effect (180). I'm surprised they didn't break.

Had my lugs nearly as tight twice - once they seemed to deform the wheel slightly and never really tightened up the same again. Found this out when rotating them in my garage with good access and tools. If I'd been on the side of the road with just the took kit I'd likely have been waiting for a flatbed.

My Audi dealer rotated my tires on my A4 and totally chewed up the wheels around the lugs - obviously from an impact wrench that got a little out of their control. Plus they were on too tight - probably 150 ft-lbs.

My boss had one of his lug studs broken off - the shop just put the hub cover back on and told him he was good to go. How many ft-lbs does it take to break off a lug stud?

Now - if possible, I have tires mounted on the rims, and I put them on myself with my torque wrench. Just don't trust the guys with the impact wrenches :(

[sirmium]

I broke two socket extensions to break loose the bolts. This was after shop that changed my brakes tighten them with gun. Thank god nothing wrong with bolts or hubs.

[Mops@Nemesis]

I'm anal about having my wheels hand torque and bolted on. Nearly all big box wheel/tire places uses an air gun to bolt the wheels up. Many times they'll mess up the bolts.

Sent telepathically

Yes! I am the same. I do not use air or allow others to do so. Shit, it takes no time to remove, mount or torque by hand. Like 1-2 minutes per wheel. And shops are bad to scar lug holes which I hate. I tape up my impact sockets with many layers of painters tape.

[ActivS5]

I impact lugs off, but tighten by hand. A lot of what you guys could be experiencing is caused by rust.

[Skyler@Achtuning]

My winter wheels are Hartmann Reps and they came with those funky bolt heads that require a Spline key.

No Hartmann wheels ever produced have required a tuner lug (spline drive). In fact for B8 chassis fitment none of the wheels Hartmann offers uses a cone seat bolt which is the only option in a tuner lug. Either someone sold you a set of wheels that are not Hartmanns or your wheel installer should not be installing wheels.
If the hub is damaged significantly it may be necessary to replace the hub assembly.

[a5sport]

No Hartmann wheels ever produced have required a tuner lug (spline drive). In fact for B8 chassis fitment none of the wheels Hartmann offers uses a cone seat bolt which is the only option in a tuner lug. Either someone sold you a set of wheels that are not Hartmanns or your wheel installer should not be installing wheels.
If the hub is damaged significantly it may be necessary to replace the hub assembly.

+1 on that. Purchased 2 sets of Hartmann wheels from you guys last year. One for my S5 & one for the A4, and both use the OEM bolts.

My winter wheels are Hartmann Reps and they came with those funky bolt heads that require a Spline key. I had Discount Tire mount the wheels & tires back in December when I got the car and they used the bolts that came with the Hartmann wheels. When I removed one of the bolts today, it was very tight & was squealing most of the way out. The first 1/4" of the bolt is totally stripped and the bolt hole on the rotor/hub is also damaged. Now I'm trying to figure out what to do as I can only get 4 bolts on to the rear right wheel. I will be talking to Discount Tire tomorrow to see what they say as I can only assume that they stripped the bolt or somehow crossed the threads on when installing the wheels.

Chances are good that the installer put the bolt in his impact socket, then drove it home, stripping the bolt. Anyone who knows how to use an impact gun properly knows you always start things by hand, then use the gun.

[NYSpeedRacer]

Chances are good that the installer put the bolt in his impact socket, then drove it home, stripping the bolt. Anyone who knows how to use an impact gun properly knows you always start things by hand, then use the gun.

That is incorrect, you should never use an impact gun at the "end" you'll end up over torquing the bolt.

The safest way is to hand thread the bolt and use a torque wrench to "end" it.

[Mops@Nemesis]

Hand jobs . I have no clue why you need air to rotate a bolt 6-8 turns.


Sent from my iPhone

[a5sport]

That is incorrect, you should never use an impact gun at the "end" you'll end up over torquing the bolt.

The safest way is to hand thread the bolt and use a torque wrench to "end" it.

Ahhh...sorry to disagree with you...but this does not have to happen...EVER.

Good impact guns...like my two Snap-On guns...have settings for the amount of force the exert...and can be set to tighten the bolts just below the required torque settings. Then use a torque wrench to bring the bolts to specs. I was a professional mechanic, engine builder, and car builder for the Skip Barber Racing School for nearly 10 years...and have worked other places in the racing business. I know what I'm talking about.

As I said...if the person using the gun knows what they are doing....................

[B8_Jim]

As I said...if the person using the gun knows what they are doing....................

I think the real problem is they have to give a damn. I'd bet a fair number of the ones that even know what they are doing, don't care.

[NYSpeedRacer]

I think the real problem is they have to give a damn. I'd bet a fair number of the ones that even know what they are doing, don't care.

Bingo.


Sent telepathically

[mxrz]

Impact guns? Witchcraft! Be gone with your tools of the devil!

Hand jobs .

Amen.

[Mops@Nemesis]

Impact guns? Witchcraft! Be gone with your tools of the devil!

Amen.

Yup. Air is for shops and pussies;)



Sent from my iPhone

[mxrz]

And Nike shoes!

[ians]

A bit off topic, few weeks ago when I put on the h&r DRA spacers on. When I hand torque the bolt between the spacers & the brake hub, I am afraid I stripped the bolt head with 90lb/ft too! In order to avoid stripping the bold, should I need special socket?

[Mops@Nemesis]

A bit off topic, few weeks ago when I put on the h&r DRA spacers on. When I hand torque the bolt between the spacers & the brake hub, I am afraid I stripped the bolt head with 90lb/ft too! In order to avoid stripping the bold, should I need special socket?

Ugh, the nightmares with those shallow head DRA bolts:( Have a shop remove if you ever do. Trust me! I spent a good 8+ hours removing DRA bolts a couple years ago. Its easy to slip and strip them. You have to be very careful and it helps to have someone hold the head of your torque wrench to keep it square on the bolt.

[mxrz]

That's because you guys aren't baller enough to get 25+mm DRA. Their bolt heads are longer. Only the 20mm spacer has shallow heads.

[Mops@Nemesis]

That's because you guys aren't baller enough to get 25+mm DRA. Their bolt heads are longer. Only the 20mm spacer has shallow heads.

The horror.

[jpenneck]

No Hartmann wheels ever produced have required a tuner lug (spline drive). In fact for B8 chassis fitment none of the wheels Hartmann offers uses a cone seat bolt which is the only option in a tuner lug. Either someone sold you a set of wheels that are not Hartmanns or your wheel installer should not be installing wheels.
If the hub is damaged significantly it may be necessary to replace the hub assembly.

Skyler, thanks for the clarification. I do not know why Discount Tire installed the wheels with what you called a tuner lug (spline drive). At the time I think they claimed they could not use the original Audi bolts but did not give me a reason.

I want to be clear here that I do not fault Achtuning/Hartmann in any way for this issue, it was purely an installation issue, accidental or just carelessness. This is the 2nd set of Hartmann wheels that I have purchased and I have been happy with both of them. My car has now been repaired (hub was tapped/rethreaded) and Discount Tire paid for it in full, no questions asked.

[ians]

That's because you guys aren't baller enough to get 25+mm DRA. Their bolt heads are longer. Only the 20mm spacer has shallow heads.

Oh! I am such a cheap ass... but show me pic on 25+ mm on the front

[anelson524]

I just had a new set of wheels installed on my car yesterday. Discount Tire did the same thing with one lug. They had me take it to a service center that handles all the issues they cause. Appears as if they are going to do whatever it takes to fix it. Just waiting to hear what parts they may need so that they can get it fixed for certain when I bring it in. So for now my rear right wheel is held on with 4 lugs and the 5 is apparently cross threaded on.

[Skyler@Achtuning]

I want to be clear here that I do not fault Achtuning/Hartmann in any way for this issue, it was purely an installation issue, accidental or just carelessness. This is the 2nd set of Hartmann wheels that I have purchased and I have been happy with both of them.

No worries, I didn't take it that way, I just wanted to make sure that anyone reading the thread has no misunderstandings :) Glad to hear that Discount got you all fixed up

[mxrz]

Oh! I am such a cheap ass... but show me pic on 25+ mm on the front

25mm DRA in front with OEM wheels (19x8.5 ET32):



With all the neg. camber I have, it's not even flush

[ians]

Here is mine:

we have different offset, BTW, anyone know what offset is the 19" rotor?