B8.5 fender rust

[quietcropduster]

Thoughts on the BEST way to fix this, before it gets worse. Literally only on the front passenger side. My thoughts were to use a sanding pen 2 scuff up the area and remove rust and use touch up paint with a micro brush applicator.

Audi refuses to warranty it because they claim it's wear and tear and isn't caused by their subpar paint methods *rolls eyes*

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[sonic32]

Wow you even have the stone guards and still got problems. I would touch it up, pull the plastic stone guard off, clean very thoroughly and wrap it in a small thin piece of paint protection film


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[petraman]

Wow you even have the stone guards and still got problems. I would touch it up, pull the plastic stone guard off, clean very thoroughly and wrap it in a small thin piece of paint protection film


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Touching it up won't do anything to fix the problem... It'll keep spreading. Find a good rust remover before applying the touch up paint. paintscratch.com has a great rust remover that you can get with one of their touch up packages. I went with them because they were the only company I could find that supplies both a base and mid coat for glacier white pearl.

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[quietcropduster]

Touching it up won't do anything to fix the problem... It'll keep spreading. Find a good rust remover before applying the touch up paint. paintscratch.com has a great rust remover that you can get with one of their touch up packages. I went with them because they were the only company I could find that supplies both a base and mid coat for glacier white pearl.

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I've got carpro iron x, think that should do the trick?

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[sonic32]

I've got carpro iron x, think that should do the trick?

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Yes and no. You can spray it with iron x and then sand down remaining rust speckles. Obviously point is to shave away the rust before touching it up, I thought it's common knowledge hence why I didn't mention it.


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[quietcropduster]

Yes and no. You can spray it with iron x and then sand down remaining rust speckles. Obviously point is to shave away the rust before touching it up, I thought it's common knowledge hence why I didn't mention it.


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Iron x removes the rust or neutralizes it at least, I was then going to hit it with that sanding pen to remove the residual rust.

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[sonic32]

Iron x removes the rust or neutralizes it at least, I was then going to hit it with that sanding pen to remove the residual rust.

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As long as the rust is cleaned up from absolutely everywhere down to the last speckle than you're good. It's also surface rust. The body of the car is galvanized so it won't get eaten no matter what, it's not a Subaru. Clean it, touch it up let it dry for a week or 2 and add paint protection film, done deal!


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[jonwoods]

You need to pull off that fender liner and the undertrays and take a good look all along that seam - it looks like there are a few bubbles and pin holes from the pic. Rust is like an iceberg... you only see 10% of it. You need to take a grinder to *all* of it - presuming you can get to all of it (ie- it's not coming through from the back) - and you may find that there's not much metal left when you're done which, if you want a permanent fix, means cutting and welding and painting. Yup. Shitty. Possibly very expensive. One pin hole and it'll just come right back - after spreading to the back side of the panel and making things start to rust out from the back. Been there. Done that. It's a losing battle.

The best offence against rust is a good defence. Rust proof your car and reapply to particularity susceptible areas (wheel arches) throughout salt season from over the counter spray cans. Rinsing a little oil off in the spring is easy. I take off my undertrays and arches and clean and rust proof by hand every 6 months. They collect tons of crap and commercial rust proofers won't tear the car down to get under them. Fix chips with touch up pen immediatly.

It's Painful watching expensive cars turn into valueless rust buckets but you seriously prolong the life of your panels with a little preventative maintenance.

[quietcropduster]

You need to pull off that fender liner and the undertrays and take a good look all along that seam - it looks like there are a few bubbles and pin holes from the pic. Rust is like an iceberg... you only see 10% of it. You need to take a grinder to *all* of it - presuming you can get to all of it (ie- it's not coming through from the back) - and you may find that there's not much metal left when you're done which, if you want a permanent fix, means cutting and welding and painting. Yup. Shitty. Possibly very expensive. One pin hole and it'll just come right back - after spreading to the back side of the panel and making things start to rust out from the back. Been there. Done that. It's a losing battle.

The best offence against rust is a good defence. Rust proof your car and reapply to particularity susceptible areas (wheel arches) throughout salt season from over the counter spray cans. Rinsing a little oil off in the spring is easy. I take off my undertrays and arches and clean and rust proof by hand every 6 months. They collect tons of crap and commercial rust proofers won't tear the car down to get under them. Fix chips with touch up pen immediatly.

It's Painful watching expensive cars turn into valueless rust buckets but you seriously prolong the life of your panels with a little preventative maintenance.

Your scaring me lol, Saturday I'm going to put my car on a lift. Remove fender liner and undertray 2 see what's up!

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[pdqgp]

Here's what my 2014 looks like. When I had the clear bra done he pulled up the plastic lip and did under it.

[quietcropduster]

Here's what my 2014 looks like. When I had the clear bra done he pulled up the plastic lip and did under it.

for some reason your pix isnt working anymore?

[4DOORFUN]

for some reason your pix isnt working anymore?

Just curious, are your aftermarket wheels wider than OEM?

[quietcropduster]

Just curious, are your aftermarket wheels wider than OEM?

negative sir

[pdqgp]

for some reason your pix isnt working anymore?

Photobucket no longer allows embedding unless you pay. Screw them.

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[quietcropduster]

Photobucket no longer allows embedding unless you pay. Screw them.

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I researched that after the fact, yeah they can go pound sand!

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[donnyboyy]

What year is the car ? Isn't audi responsible for the repair considering they have a 12 warranty on rust


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[risc427]

What year is the car ? Isn't audi responsible for the repair considering they have a 12 warranty on rust


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Unfortunately it's not that simple. Warranty coverage requires actual perforation of the body panel in order to qualify. Completely ridiculous IMO, but that's the response almost everyone receives.

[quietcropduster]

What year is the car ? Isn't audi responsible for the repair considering they have a 12 warranty on rust


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They warranty "rust through", everything else is a case by case basis....i feel like I should still a hole thru it and tell em they now need 2 fix it (kidding)

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[donnyboyy]

They warranty "rust through", everything else is a case by case basis....i feel like I should still a hole thru it and tell em they now need 2 fix it (kidding)

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Maybe it's best to bring it to the dealer and see what they would be willing to do before you go spending money


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[endy1]

You need to pull off that fender liner and the undertrays and take a good look all along that seam - it looks like there are a few bubbles and pin holes from the pic. Rust is like an iceberg... you only see 10% of it. You need to take a grinder to *all* of it - presuming you can get to all of it (ie- it's not coming through from the back) - and you may find that there's not much metal left when you're done which, if you want a permanent fix, means cutting and welding and painting. Yup. Shitty. Possibly very expensive. One pin hole and it'll just come right back - after spreading to the back side of the panel and making things start to rust out from the back. Been there. Done that. It's a losing battle.

The best offence against rust is a good defence. Rust proof your car and reapply to particularity susceptible areas (wheel arches) throughout salt season from over the counter spray cans. Rinsing a little oil off in the spring is easy. I take off my undertrays and arches and clean and rust proof by hand every 6 months. They collect tons of crap and commercial rust proofers won't tear the car down to get under them. Fix chips with touch up pen immediatly.

It's Painful watching expensive cars turn into valueless rust buckets but you seriously prolong the life of your panels with a little preventative maintenance.

What he/she said.

Work as a carpainter in Sweden and have done loads of these.
Good thing here is that you often get new ones from warranty. But ithink you have to pay a % of the cost yourself. I THINK Audi stands for like 70%.

[quietcropduster]

hey guys to remove those fender liners, are there torx bits or plastic rivets? Or do those not come out and is it just double sided tape holding them on? trying to wrap PPF around the section outlined in green only.

[Claudio_S4B8]

No matter how hard you try, Audi b8 fenders will rust eventually.
I bought the car used at 97k km with the entire car wrapped in 3M clear. The paint was protected yet the car colour always looked dull. Around the bottom of both fenders, I noticed some bubbling and one day I decided to completely remove all clear wrap around the car and found some surprises. Took my car to Audi for the 12 year rust warranty. 3 Audi dealerships refused my claim telling me how this wasn’t “perforation”. After getting a few quotes from local body shops ($700-$1000CAD) I decide to do the work myself. I spent $70 on products... the results aren’t the best and are noticeable from close but from a far, the fenders look brand new. Looking to get the entire car buffed and waxed this summer to hide any imperfections in my paint and smooth out my repair area. Here’s some pics of the rust, I’ll post pictures my fenders after my buff and wax
IMG_1805.jpgIMG_1806.jpg


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[MrFunk]

Yep
It's a common problem. They need to do a better job of beefing up that area. Hopefully the B9's don't have such thin exposed paint behind the wheels. The B8.5's seem to have a bit more stone guard protection but it's not enough.
I'm constantly keeping an eye on those areas and trying to keep ahead of it.

[NotQuickEnough]

No matter how hard you try, Audi b8 fenders will rust eventually.
I bought the car used at 97k km with the entire car wrapped in 3M clear. The paint was protected yet the car colour always looked dull. Around the bottom of both fenders, I noticed some bubbling and one day I decided to completely remove all clear wrap around the car and found some surprises. Took my car to Audi for the 12 year rust warranty. 3 Audi dealerships refused my claim telling me how this wasn’t “perforation”. After getting a few quotes from local body shops ($700-$1000CAD) I decide to do the work myself. I spent $70 on products... the results aren’t the best and are noticeable from close but from a far, the fenders look brand new. Looking to get the entire car buffed and waxed this summer to hide any imperfections in my paint and smooth out my repair area. Here’s some pics of the rust, I’ll post pictures my fenders after my buff and wax
IMG_1805.jpgIMG_1806.jpg


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So you had PPF around those paint chipped areas and it still rusted? I'm debating putting some film around those areas. This is really sad my 08 BMW with 130k and Canada winters had no rust. If I get this issue I'm going back to BMW.

[quietcropduster]

That's what I'm saying I don't yet have PPF, but my car is at a professional detailer and he was asking if those were plastic rivets double-sided tape or Torx screws. But he figured it out it's just double-sided tape.

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[Claudio_S4B8]

So you had PPF around those paint chipped areas and it still rusted? I'm debating putting some film around those areas. This is really sad my 08 BMW with 130k and Canada winters had no rust. If I get this issue I'm going back to BMW.

Yes the entire car was wrapped in PPF actually. I don’t think it’s really worth it for Canadian winters... salt always finds its way in unfortunately


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[Claudio_S4B8]

Btw here is how the car looks now. I know the pictures are from far but the whole point is that you don’t see the damage or repairs from far.
IMG_2172.JPGIMG_2173.JPG


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[pdqgp]

hey guys to remove those fender liners, are there torx bits or plastic rivets? Or do those not come out and is it just double sided tape holding them on? trying to wrap PPF around the section outlined in green only.

Torque screws

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[points]

I got a couple bottles of touch-up from automotivetouchup.com. Used their self-etching primer, color and clear. took a small wire wheel to that part of the fender and made sure i got all the rust and then went up the wheel arch an inch or two more. 4 coats of primer, 3 coats of color and 3 of clear. If you look real close you can tell it doesnt match perfectly but its good enough that no one will ever notice unless they are changing a tire for you. If you take care of it now its a quick fix, did mine about 3 years ago and its time to do it again in the same spot but it hasnt spread up the fender at all.

[quietcropduster]

Pix?

I got a couple bottles of touch-up from automotivetouchup.com. Used their self-etching primer, color and clear. took a small wire wheel to that part of the fender and made sure i got all the rust and then went up the wheel arch an inch or two more. 4 coats of primer, 3 coats of color and 3 of clear. If you look real close you can tell it doesnt match perfectly but its good enough that no one will ever notice unless they are changing a tire for you. If you take care of it now its a quick fix, did mine about 3 years ago and its time to do it again in the same spot but it hasnt spread up the fender at all.

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