B6 A4 Spark Plugs

[euro89]

Hi guys, before you tell me to look at all the posts, I've dug into all of them, and they are confusing.

I don't know what spark plug to get, some people say get the NGK BKR6E, some say get the BKR7E, some say get copper some say get platinum some say get iridium. People talk about temperature, don't run 7's in cold weather etc etc etc... I don't care about the gap anymore lol I know to make sure its between .028 and .032 you guys have drilled that into my head.

I have a B6 A4 1.8t with an APR chip, that is all.

I live in California, if that helps with what spark plugs to get because people mention rough cold start idles in cold climates, and my climate isn't really considered cold.

I don't want to upgrade my Coil pack, I'm going to get the same OEM's. I just want to know what spark plug to get. Also in the threads people suggest the cheap plug that you change every 5K with an oil change, i never knew plugs would go out that quick....anyway.


Id like to thank you guys in advance for not complicating your answers, I just want my car to run smooth again at idle and heavy acceleration ( merging :D )

[old guy]

BKR6E-IX and change them every 35-40k miles.

[euro89]

BKR6E-IX and change them every 35-40k miles.

Thanks Old guy, you always come through with the reputable help. Are these plugs good for my car cause of the APR Stage 1 chip? Also, they should be fine with OEM coil packs yeah?

[old guy]

Yes they should go well with a stage-1 tune and OEM coil packs.

[euro89]

Yes they should go well with a stage-1 tune and OEM coil packs.

Thanks man, one more question, the size, i notice when you look up plug they have a 4 digit number I'm guessing this is the size?

This one is 6418 - http://www.amazon.com/NGK-BKR6EIX-Ir.../dp/B000BYDA8E

This one is 3764 - http://www.amazon.com/NGK-BKR6EIX-11.../dp/B000BYGK0E

It starts getting complicated man.

[old guy]

Order the first one listed. It comes pre-gapped to .8mm (.032). The second one listed comes pre-gapped to 1.1mm (.044).

[euro89]

Order the first one listed. It comes pre-gapped to .8mm (.032). The second one listed comes pre-gapped to 1.1mm (.044).

Thanks I'm gonna grab them, so is the only difference I saw was the second one says -11, i saw that on a few posts on audizine. Is that what I should avoid?

[old guy]

The 1.1mm gap is too much for the OEM coil packs.

[euro89]

Do you think its a good idea buying them off Amazon?, Other places I've looked at don't offer me the iridium, but I can find platinum a lot, but the numbers are PFR6Q. I looked it up, and its the OEM spark plug for my car. Or do you suggest i look for BKR6E.

[old guy]

The PFR6Q will also work fine. There is no reason not to purchase the Iridiums from Amazon. The price is decent. I have purchased plugs from Amazon (as well as a lot of other components) with no issues.

[euro89]

The PFR6Q will also work fine. There is no reason not to purchase the Iridiums from Amazon. The price is decent. I have purchased plugs from Amazon (as well as a lot of other components) with no issues.

Thanks again guy, last question though i swear, well no i might have more in the future lol, do you suggest I get the OEM PFR6Q or the Amazon BKR6E? I am selling the car soon, and I want the owner to have no need to go the shop, just smooth sailing while I use it and until it has a new owner. Thinking maybe mid summer ill put it up for sale.

[old guy]

Either plug will work fine with your engine. You would not be able to tell any difference between the two. Usually the NGK's a a little cheaper than the OEM plug. Go with whichever one is cheapest and you will be good to go.

[euro89]

These are OEM, with free shipping. Should I grab these? they're still NGK... http://www.ecstuning.com/Audi-B6_A4-...OEM/ES2526486/

[old guy]

Those would be just fine.

[euro89]

So I should just assume that they are .8mm ?

[old guy]

So I should just assume that they are .8mm ?

They should come pre-gapped to .8mm but it is a good idea to double check just in case the plug got dropped somewhere along the line.

[euro89]

Thanks man, I really appreciate your advice. Im sure this answered a lotta peoples questions as it did for me.

[Luxus Panzer]

Related....

What is the recommended easy to find plug for upgraded coil packs with a APR stage 1 ?

[lyates1987]

Related....

What is the recommended easy to find plug for upgraded coil packs with a APR stage 1 ?

I've heard that getting the NGKs and gapping to .28 is recommended with APR stage 1 on upgraded coils. I thing it was NGKs. Can;t remember specifically which ones off the top of my head.

[Charles.waite]

Preface: I am running 07k FSI coil packs...

I've been running 1.1mm gapped BKR7EIX-11 plugs for about a year now. Zero issues.

Previously I was running 1.1mm gapped BKR6EIX-11 Plugs also for about a year. Zero Issues.

I've also run BKR6E plugs, as well as BKR7E plugs. All on the FSI coil packs.

They all run just fine. I prefer the 7s as I like to push the car a bit when I can. Never had any issues in the winter with startup or idling.

There is zero reason to run a gap under .032" on a stock turbo tune and stock coils.

[euro89]

Ok so I bought the plugs I went as OEM as I could, I bought the NGK Laser Platinum PFR6Q.

Now, the guy at O'Reilly recommended I get Anti-Seize, which I bought. But.....But, i am now reading posts about avoid using them because NGK's are designed in a way that do not need the anti seize due to the coating on them. Thoughts recommendations, anybody...

Another thing, i was reading my manual I can't find anything on how tight the plugs should be, in fact i couldn't find anything related to spark plugs. So how tight should it be?

Damn it bro, why can't it be simple.

[old guy]

No Anti_seize needed when installing new plugs. Threads are coated with anti-friction material. If you have a torque wrench tighten to 20 lb ft. If you don't have a torque wrench just hand tighten as far as you can and then add an additional 3/4 turn. I have a torque wrench and I just go 3/4 turns. Works fine.

[euro89]

thanks guy I'll do that, I'm gonna hesitate when I'm tightening as hard as i can, but ill try to not over think it. So with the plugs I bought should I gap at 0.028 because of the tune? Would that be ok for these plugs?

[old guy]

They should be pre-gapped to .8mm. Just run them there. Should be fine.

[euro89]

Yeah I will, thanks. So 0.032 is for stock and closer to 0.028 is for chip when using the gap gauge?

[old guy]

.032 should be fine with a basic tune and OEM coil packs. With the big injector file you may need to decrease the gap a little if you are running revision R or older coil packs. If you have the latest revision D coils the gap is no longer an issue. The coil pack part number is on top of the coil pack.

[euro89]

Just wanted to do a follow up, the plugs are in and the car is running smoothly, I forgot how smooth it can be.

Total time approx 25 mins due to making sure the gaps were as close to 0.032 as possible.

Anyway I just want to thank old guy and everybody else for their input.

[old guy]

[euro89]

Haha, dude I don't even wanna sell it anymore but I'm almost at 150k. It's value is depreciating even while I'm typing this. Might be time for a 4x4 Tacoma, or go classy and get an e34 525i.

[old guy]

Haha, dude I don't even wanna sell it anymore but I'm almost at 150k. It's value is depreciating even while I'm typing this. Might be time for a 4x4 Tacoma, or go classy and get an e34 525i.

The value of a 12 year old car with 150K miles is essentially nil no mater what shape it's in. If you like the car and it's mechanically sound just keep it as a spare vehicle. At ~210K miles there's no way in hell I could sell my B6 for what it's worth to me so I plan on keeping it until something catastrophic happens.

[euro89]

Thats very true unless its a 4runner, mileage means nothing to the 4runner world. I do like the car, but ever since the beginning of 2015 its been in and out of the shop, just this year alone i have almost spent what my cars KBB value is (good/fair) condition. I had to do the water pump all over again, and this was originally done just over a year ago, so the warranty was non existent. wheel bearings, differential, all kinda headache stuff. Its good now, i just need tires which is another $500-$700. I like the car, but i don't like the way its been behaving this year.

[old guy]

Good point. I'm fortunate to have the tools and experience to handle pretty much any repairs that may be required. If you are having to pay shop rates it probably doesn't make sense to keep it once all the nagging little problems pop up like water pumps, wheel bearings, suspension components, fuel pumps, check valves, CV joints etc.

[euro89]

Don't get me wrong, i mean if I had the tools, and more importantly the space to do the work, i would do as much as I can, and from that I learn and gain experience. Which is why I am only limited to basic mechanical work and cosmetic work. You mentioned CV joints, I'm going to steal my own thread and ask a question, every time i go over a bump, or a pot hole or something I hear this chain rattling sound coming from my front tire. I took my car to the shop a while ago for the diff and I know the guy so he doesn't mind me go under my car and checking things out, i noticed that when I hit my lower control arm, I can hear the chain rattle, do you think its the control arm bushings? because when pressure is applied to the control arm and I whack it there is no sound.

[old guy]

Control arm bushings generally make a clunking noise when driving over rough surfaces. If you can evoke a noise by simply banging on the control arm in a static position I would suspect it's probably something attached to the control arm. Check out the lower shock bushing, the sway bar links as well as the sway bar bushings and even the brake shoes being a little loose in the calipers.

[euro89]

I know for a fact that when I hit the control arm the sound is by the wheel, it could be brake shoes, i just know its something stupid and cheap. Im leaning towards bushings though only because of my putting force on the control arm. But I also found out something else it could be i forgot to mention this, theres this big cover plate that sits behind the rotors, i forgot what its called but thats moving a bit freely, do you think that could be one of the causes?

[A4SoftWalker]

Possibly front sub-frame needs to be welded at the seams. Look on here for the thread or someone might post it. Then tell your buddy what to look for under there.

It's also possible the rubber bushing(s) has/have become separated from the metal ring(s).

[Charles.waite]

Could be something as stupid as the brake dust shield rattling. I would pull the wheel and poke around.

[old guy]

I know for a fact that when I hit the control arm the sound is by the wheel, it could be brake shoes, i just know its something stupid and cheap. Im leaning towards bushings though only because of my putting force on the control arm. But I also found out something else it could be i forgot to mention this, theres this big cover plate that sits behind the rotors, i forgot what its called but thats moving a bit freely, do you think that could be one of the causes?

It's called a dusts shield. It should not move at all. It is secured by three bolts. Make sure all three are tight.

[euro89]

It's called a dusts shield. It should not move at all. It is secured by three bolts. Make sure all three are tight.

My driver side is definitely loose, my mechanic was actually able to move it with his hand, he said its not a big deal right now cause he was busy with the important stuff for my car.

Could be something as stupid as the brake dust shield rattling. I would pull the wheel and poke around.

Thats the word I was looking for brake dust shield. my driver side shield is definitely loose.






So when i apply pressure to the control arm does that put pressure on the plate? Because thats what stops the rattling.