I assume no responsibility whatsoever for damages that
an end user may inflict upon their vehicles or themselves
using information contained herein. Proceed with caution and care
when performing modifications to your vehicle. Be advised
that making modifications to your vehicle may void your manufacturer's warranty
What we're going to do is upgrade the
- A (-)Chassis - Battery,
- B (-)Chassis - Engine block
- C (+)Alternator - Battery
Sorry I stole this pic off the internet because my engine bays too dirty to take any useful pictures.

it gives you an idea of where the wires have to go.
So I picked up some 4ga car audio power wire and some ring terminals.
- 7.5' Feet of 4ga wire
- 5 Ring connectors
- FUSE FOR ALT TO BATTERY + POWER
THE FIRST STEP IS TO DISCONNECT YOUR BATTERY.
The next step is to cut the wire to appropriate lengths.
I chose to cut
- A- 12"
- B- 18"
- C- 60"
YOU MAY WANT TO CUT DIFFERENTLY.
Getting started
C- Alternator to + battrery
run a POSITIVE (+) wire from the POSITIVE sided of you battery to the nut located on the alternator. The nut is visible between the 1st and 2nd runner of the intake manifold.
Here is a picture looking through that runner.

Then you can run it through the grommet located under the the battery and above the transmission.
Remember to put this to POSITIVE. You can not remove the original wire there because it runs to your starter also.
EDIT: BE SURE TO FUSE THIS WIRE TO AVOID OF ENGINE FIRE, SEE COMMENTS.
B- Engine to Chassis.
this is located on your passenger side frame rail. Right next to your motor mount. Its easiest to access from underneath. Here is a picture for reference sorry that there is so much going on in the picture focus on the brown wire.

again here I ran the wire next to the original one.
A- Battery to Chassis.
last step, pretty simple. Connect wire to negative side of battery and to chassis. You can either replace your original or run another one next to it.
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