Nynoahs Build thread

[Seerlah]

I was under the presumption is the jet suction pump that creates the extra vacuum.

[nynoah]

I was under the presumption is the jet suction pump that creates the extra vacuum.

Sadly a lot of the kids on here are deleting their vacuum systems which includes the jet suction pumps in order to clean up the underhood. I am going to be doing my best to keep all that stuff esp the Jet suction pump.

[nynoah]

Honestly, I don't think the vacuum thing is that big of a deal... For street use, I think you would be fine. If you're going to be out at the weekend road course events all the time, then the stiffer brake pedal might be an issue. The car is only in vacuum when you aren't giving it throttle anyway. At worse, you might have to press a little harder on the brake pedal to stop. But searching did not turn up any results of people complaining about the vacuum at idle of IE's camshafts. Also, check this out: http://www.audizine.com/forum/showth...=1#post8849820 Not sure if you were only interested in the IECVA1 set though.
Those Piper cams might be alright. Website claims 20 hp increase, not very impressive but I'm assuming that's with a stock turbo... At close to the price of IE cams, might just be better to wait.
Also, the reason for the check valves in the vacuum hose system is so you don't send 20 psi of boost into your crankcase or brake booster or vacuum reservoir (if you still have that).

I was interested in the IV2 or IV3 cam set. Sadly the only cams they have in stock are the single intake cam. Which I am not sure if I want that? Do you have an opinion on this cam?

http://www.performancebyie.com/integ...ntake-camshaft

Verses this cam?

http://www.performancebyie.com/integ...t-camshaft-set

[chris164935]

The extra vacuum created by the suction jet pump only pulls from the crankcase. The pump itself is inline to the brake booster, but the part of the pump that is pulling extra vacuum caused by the venturi effect is connected to the crankcase. The brake booster gets vacuum through the suction jet pump (it's basically a check valve for the brake booster) as well as from a second line that Tee's in between the pump and the brake booster. The brake booster stores vacuum and you should be fine as I can't think of a time when you'll need to brake and go WOT at the same time (which would use up all of your stored vacuum and not allow you to have more to assist with braking).

As for camshafts, it's really up to you. If you plan on upgrading to a larger turbo later, I would say go with the IECVA1 (since they are the same price as the milder IECVA2). If you're happy with your current turbo and just want to some more power and a bit better DD ability, I'd say go with the IECVA2 or the IECVA3. As for availability, you could try contacting some of IE's vendors and see if they have any of the camshaft sets in stock...

[nynoah]

Currently looking into a EGT sensor solution that will not totally break the bank.

I ultimately want to run THIS http://www.turbozentrum.de/en/electr...ument/a-43720/

and it lists that it can tie into a Zeitronix unit. But the question is what do I need to do that. http://www.zeitronix.com/

Or do you all have another solution that you think is best?

[nynoah]

Just picked up this EGT Pyrometer. I think I am going to mount it where my ash tray is. Because the ashtray is useless... lol



http://www.auberins.com/index.php?ma...roducts_id=231

I plan to mount it in this location.

[MetalMan]

I had an EGT probe installed on my old car, also in a FT mani. In this pic you can see its location:



FWIW this might have less negative impact on pre-turbine flow compared to the location you have shown above. It might also be more friendly for mounting and routing the EGT wires.

And for mounting location of the EGT pyrometer:



That's column-pod-mounted, where I modified the column pod from a round opening to a rectangular opening, with a flat top that doesn't impede the driver's view of the instrument cluster.
It's just sitting on a shelf in my garage... let me know if you have any interest.

[nynoah]

Thanks for the offer on the column pod. I currently have a Podi one for my boost. So sadly I can not use it.

[Seerlah]

Wouldn't you want egt after the turbo? Having it in the manifold would take temp more of combustion heat and transient heat from turbo, versus real exhaust temp. I also want to run an egt sensor. Most likely will, and will run it with a vei dual gauge (with fuel pressure) to match my others.

[nynoah]

You want the EGT as close to the head as possible. The goal is to know the temps inside the combustion chamber to make sure it does not go too high and melt a piston or other bad things. The recommended placement for the most optimum reading is 1.5 inches from the head near cylinder 1 or do 4 probes each at an individual cylinder (which is overkill). So best location is in the collector before the turbo. If it is after the turbo then the exhaust will have cooled some.

[Seerlah]

Blonde hair moment. They are usually in a runner or collector.

[nynoah]

Well I just got the invoice from Arnold at PAG parts. So looks like I am going EFR. I will be sure to post some info and keep you all up to date when it comes in. I will post it in my build thread. I will be selling all my left over parts to help fund the build. No credit needed. I don't even have a credit card to my name anyways. Next task is to work on my wiring loom to fix my random misfires.

So now the plan is internally waste gated .64 Vband EFR6758. Which is what I have always wanted. Arnold is going to make an intake to let me keep my stock airbox. If I end up moving to some place with visual inspections, I want to be able to pass it. Kit also includes a highflow CAT. So pretty much everything that I wanted. Car you make me so broke.... lol

BUT I AM REALLY EXCITED.... ALL THE SPEED

[Seerlah]

So many regrets with my build. But also so many avenues to take, and I like(ed) to support AZ vendors. Cost me money and frustration. End of the day, you have a kit that I regret not running with from the start. Hands down one ofbthe best flowing manifolds on the market. Undenied by me, hands down best logger on the market. You won't be dissapointed.

Friend runs the Pag Parts GTX3071r kit on meth. B5 A4, stock displacement, built head, stock cams, AEB, meth, maestro, and walks my car like it's parked. And my car is no slouch. He is beyond 400whp. So in a nutshell, waiting for what what you can pull out the rabbit's hat. Great choice on setup.

[nynoah]

Yeah I am really stoked about it. My only question is should I get a 7163 or a 6758?


My current project is tearing into my wiring loom to replace all my coilpack wires. My random misfires got to be really bad finally. I also need to find some replacement wires but how do I search for the right part number? I want to get a few packs of those yellow wire replacement things from VW. I want to replace all my wires around the injectors and the cam position sensor. I also plan to go Meastro soon and wanted to step up to a 750 injector. But which ones are best and are the plugs EV1 or EV14?

[IMG][/IMG]

[IMG][/IMG]

[MetalMan]

Bosch EV14 750cc injectors are pretty popular, and what I run @ 4bar fuel pressure. My understanding is that they start out as Bosch EV14 550cc injectors, then are precision-drilled to 750cc. But this means they have all the characteristics of the 550cc injectors (good from a tuning perspective) just with more flow.

[Seerlah]

EV1 is stock. I cut mine off and butt connected EV14 connectors with wire leads, then wrapped in cloth tape. Haven't redone my cam sensor section yet, though. All wires besides o2 sensors now on cold side.

[nynoah]

Yeah I might try to reroute onto the cold side. That is a good idea to future proof it. Also after ripping into the loom, I think I am going to but connect it half way through like the way the 034 harness does it. But without the fancy plug. I am going to use marine grade butt connectors that shrink wrap down.

Speaking of other wires. Do you know of a good source for the yellow repair wires. 10 dollars each at the dealer is way too much.

Also, I really want one of those passat covers. But I can never find them in the junkyard. What years did they come on?

[Seerlah]

I forget the part number for the passat cover. Basedrifter should know it. Otherwise, I would need to search it. Also, not quite sure what yellow things you are referring to?

With the wires on the cold side, my ignition coils are all cocked weird due to the vc design, since I wanted all my wires pointed on the left side of the car. I hide the way it looks with the coil cover, so all you see is wires coming from underneath.

[MetalMan]

I had one on my old B5. Part # 3B0119487C. Didn't move it to my 2001 because they already have a decent cover over the power steering fluid reservoir area. Sold it a couple years back for $60 shipped in good condition.

[ray4624]

oh fuck the price has soared on those
https://www.ecstuning.com/Search/3b0119487C/ES337293/

[nynoah]

I hope the price comes down. I will hold off on this for a little while. Putting more money into go fast bits.

[nynoah]

Installing a Bosch 044 fuel pump kit from 034 motorsports. Thus kit is really good quality.

Getting prepped for the Pag Parts EFR 6758 kit. Can't wait.



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[nynoah]

For those wanting to do this job. I highly recommend this tool. 50 bucks on amazon. I tried to do it without that tool and the fuel pump was stuck in there good. But this tool popped it in and out without hassle or stress. And now that I am done I am selling it on to the next person.

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[Seerlah]

File down the locking tabs a bit before you place the pump back in, and it will come out next time no issue. Also, the three slots are not symetric. Basket can only go back in one way, and that is the way it came out. That pump will also require an aftermarket check valve. The one 034 prodives is trash (one on banjo fitting) and will prematurely wear your pump down each time you turn on and off your car (priming each time before start up because pressure bleeds back, and the pump was meant to see flow go in one direction).

But if you are going e85, you need to know that pump is not e85 compatible. Some sites say it is, some sites say it isn't. But real world results (the power of Google) will tell you it is not.

[nynoah]

Do you have a suggestion for the check valve?

[Seerlah]

Any 5/16" one will do. I run a discontinued BMW one. Others have had success with a cheap 5/16" Autozone Dorman one. I would just go that route. Cheap and works.

Actually, I think I read somewhere 034 became aware of how crappy their check valves are and updated them. Might be mistaken, so you may want to resesrch this more. I know mine, still on there, bled back pressure. Would take a couple cranks for the car to start, because the fuel line had to be filled and pressurised again before car would start. Sucked!

[nynoah]

Where do you place the check valve in the system? In the tank under the hood?

[Seerlah]

You want it as close to the pump as possible. I have mine in tank and picked up rubber fuel line in 5/16" that can be submerged (forgot rating). Then used screw clamps with rolled edges to secure it. If you have it in the engine bay, the pressurised fuel in the line from the check valve back can still damage the pump over time.

[nynoah]

Makes sense. I should have thought of that. Closest to the pump means less fuel to pressurize.

[ray4624]

So not to derail the thread but my fuel system does not hold pressure. (Aeromotive fpr, stock pump) is the check valve on my stock pump bad?


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[Seerlah]

I would say so. Either that or the fpr is bleeding it off.

[nynoah]

And so it begins....

PAG PARTS EFR 6758



Like a kid on Xmas


Behold the EFR 6758




Vband manifold


Custom Vibrant performance OBD2 compliant GESI high flow CAT.


Love the quality of the lines on this kit.

[Believer]

Those are some nice parts!

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[nynoah]

Hogging out my 60mm IE intake to a better 70mm transition.





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[nynoah]

Changed put the engine mounts on the passenger side to a B7 mount. MUCH more room for the turbo to go.

[Seerlah]

It's really just the shield. I took mine off.

[nynoah]

Even with that B7 mount I am going to have to cut it down even more. There is NO room with this EFR.

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[M-Hood]

Hogging out my 60mm IE intake to a better 70mm transition.

Is it possible to just redrill the larger bolt pattern for the 70mm TB on the IM flange and then open up the hole more? Mounting a larger TB on a smaller opening is never going to flow as much as the TB can handle since the smaller hole will always be the limit. I wish IE didn't stop offering the 70mm TB bolt pattern option for their manifolds.

[nynoah]

IE did not stop persay, they just sold out. I guess it's possible to redrill, bit you will have to rotate the intake like 30 degrees or so. With the method I chose, I can reverse it. Plus I have a hole for meth.

[M-Hood]

IE did not stop persay, they just sold out. I guess it's possible to redrill, bit you will have to rotate the intake like 30 degrees or so. With the method I chose, I can reverse it. Plus I have a hole for meth.

They discontinued the 70mm option once they sold what they had in stock, they even removed the 70mm option off their site for those manifolds.

Yes I know the purpose of running the adapter, I know others that have ran it too but mainly because they ended up going with the 80mm opening IE manifold and needed to run the 70mm to 80mm adapter to run a 70mm/65mm TB. But it seems that IE only has the 60mm manifolds in stock based on their web site, guess I will need to check with Dan to see if that is true.


BTW just found out that IE will not be making another run of longitude 1.8t intake manifolds, so once their stock is gone that is the end of that product. All they have left is a hand full of 60mm.