Nynoahs Build thread

[nynoah]

They claim that the CXRacing FMIC will fit without cutting. I would advise you to cut the metal reinforcement in the bumper to make it fit optimally. Its really not too hard to do.

[Gberg888]

Thanks!

[Tanzimur]

They claim that the CXRacing FMIC will fit without cutting. I would advise you to cut the metal reinforcement in the bumper to make it fit optimally. Its really not too hard to do.

Lol funny you mention that i just installed mine the other day from them!

[nynoah]

Well I have now gone through 2 cam chain tensioners in less than 15K miles. Advice to anyone, DO NOT BUY THE CHEAP VERSIONS. I bought the cheap one the first time. It lasted less than 5K miles. I bought the more expensive 400 version and it lasted 10K but then exploded plastic shards all over the inside of my cars engine. Don't try to skim money on a cam chain tensioner, either get a used one if you are poor or buy it new from the dealer. The fun part was this part blew on the road in the middle of nowhere in the desert of Arizona. Lucky me I coasted into a gas station with no functioning bathroom or running tap water. Thank god for the soda fountain. I have to give a big shout out to Mike Hood of Ringer Racing for helping me out. He lives down in Phoenix and he helped me out over the phone as to where get things and other stuff.










But I did get to try the best indian mutton fry bread taco a few hours before that. Bought it on the reservations just outside of the 4 corners. It was so good I had to get a 2nd one for the road.




The car is up and running now, but all said and done this cost me about 1500 to deal with. Should have bought the dealer part the first time around.

On a happier note, I love my new OZ racing rims and I just tinted the car all the way around.

[nynoah]

Oh and one more thing... I did not have my bently with me so I had to search the internet for a how to. I stumbled upon this.

http://www.passatworld.com/forums/61...tensioner.html

Which I am sure many people have seen before. The instructions omit on VERY important part. The instructions say count 16 teeth... except VW/Audi in their A-holeness made that 16 teeth from a jog in possition. Which makes it 16/17 teeth-ish. So I counted 16 teeth from common sense vertical only to figure out that it was not the case. Which I should have know because I have done this WAY too many times. But hey, heat stroke in the dessert sucks.

[nynoah]

GREAT NEWS!!!! I have sourced a new block to replace my old block. 2.0 block will find its home in the Avant. My old block met its death due to the CCT explosion. I will take it apart later and inspect. Most likely spun a bearing all relating to that stupid chinese part. I am not sure about what I am going to do with the old block. For sure I am going to take it out and take it apart to inspect it. This is what it looked like when I pulled the head.

[IMG][/IMG]

I am planning on taking the 2.0 block apart and balancing it. I also plan to put my ARP main bolts and crank bolt in addition to the new 4 bolt billet crank pulley from IE. As to turbo upgrade. I am seriously considering upgrading to an HTA 2868 elim. Definately more to come. Sadly the car is in Colorado and I am in Baltimore. So car fun will have to wait a few months.

[IMG][/IMG]

[nynoah]

I am also debating plasti dipping my in this color

[nynoah]

I have been busy. I just got done dropping this into the car. I have now gone 2.0






I am also debating getting a IE intake for my car too. I want to get it with a 70mm throttle body. Does anyone have some opinion about those two items. I also have to get the head done. I just bolted everything back together and the engine did not sound right. I am thinking I might have slightly bent a valve when my engine blew. Regardless, it was good to start the old girl up. She has not been running for over a year now.

[nynoah]

I picked up a full Millteck exhaust from a fellow forum member. We both learned something about Millteck. Apparently the B5 A4 exhaust is NOT a 2.75 in exhaust. the outer diameter is 2.75 but the INNER DIAMETER is 2.5 even in the sections where the pipes look 2.75. This is why Milltecks have a 2.5 in down pipe. When I bought the exhaust it was welded together at all the joints so it was way too long to get into the car. So we had to cut it. I figured I would re weld it later. Apparently they whole exhaust system (at least where I cut the exhaust is baffled). Check it out.



I also picked up this awesome O2 spacer from 034 Motorsports. Check it out. It has a mini CAT inside the spacer. No more CEL :) Plus I picked up a new bolt holder for my high flow manifold on my Elim setup. I highly recommend these. Keeps the bolts from backing out.

[fR3ZNO]

Interesting find with the baffled pipes. I have a Miltek exhaust on my B6, and I didn't see any baffled pipe like that between the downpipe and y pipe as well as between the y pipe and the mufflers. It might be something with the B5 exhaust only?

Where did you cut the exhaust?

[nynoah]

I cut the exhaust in the midpipe just before the resonator. I will take a pick of the whole system tomorrow.

[nynoah]

I also wanted to let people know there is a new timing belt kit which came out for the 1.8t. No more hydraulic tensioner failure.

http://news.blauparts.com/20140708-p...t-kit-1-8t-awm

[Vumile]

Just read this whole thread from start to finish. Awesome build thread. Hopefully you don't have anymore problems with 2.0! Keep up the good work and keep the thread going. Happy modding!

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[bertusmouton]

Yes. A great post. Thank you for all the detail and info. Much appreciated!

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[nynoah]

My head is currently off at the machine shop getting ALL of my intake valve replaced. Apparently when the Cam Chain Tensioner went, it did a ton of damage. Warning to all... NEVER use the cheap Chinese cam chain tensioners. Reuse stock with new pads.


So since I am waiting on that to be redone, my mind has been running. Should I upgrade the turbo? I have a GTRS Elim and I really liked it. But now I want to try a custom eliminator setup. I am debating either getting a GTX2863r or a GTX2867r. I like my eliminator setup because of the sleeper factor. Plus I might one day have to move to California so I want to keep it looking as stock as possible. If I upgrade out of the an Eliminator setup then it will be to a EFR or sorts. But I don't know if I want to invest that money for not that huge of a difference. (cost benefit analysis).

I am also debating getting the IE intake manifold with the 70mm throttle body. I am currently running a 630 uni tune. Is it possible to use the 70mm with that? Also is it a waste to get the intake if I don't have cams yet?

[MetalMan]

MI have a GTRS Elim and I really liked it. But now I want to try a custom eliminator setup. I am debating either getting a GTX2863r or a GTX2867r. I like my eliminator setup because of the sleeper factor. Plus I might one day have to move to California so I want to keep it looking as stock as possible.

I'm curious on this as well... not planning to upgrade any time soon necessarily, but now that I have rods and B7 RS4 clutch it certainly opens up more options. Like you I also have the FT manifold which itself will pass visual inspections portion of emissions testing.

[nynoah]

Bishe advised against going for the gtx2867r. Back pressure issues for the 28 housing in the elim form. He said I would need e85. I want the ultimate street setup.

[GOODBYNAAIR]

Could you make a hybrid elim using a GTX wheel (10 blade)? or am I just thinking crazy?

ATP

[nynoah]

Could you make a hybrid elim using a GTX wheel (10 blade)? or am I just thinking crazy?

ATP

That's actually what I am considering. Basically it costs an additional 300 to gets upgrade any turbo char they sell. I talked to them and they said they would do it. So the question is 2867r or 2863r? Bishe recommended 2863r. I am still debating this before or after I.E. Intake and cams first?

[GOODBYNAAIR]

This is good to know as I too run a elim and this could be a cool option later on. I think the IE intake will help even without cams. others should comment and confirm this.
recalling that your In MD too we will have to meet up sometime and talk B5 stuff.

[nynoah]

This is good to now as I too run a elim and this could be a cool option later on. I think the IE intake will help even without cams. others should comment and confirm this.
recalling that your In MD too we will have to meet up sometime and talk B5 stuff.

Yep I am now in the Bmore :)

I have also been looking through audizine and I can not find a good answer as to what the steps are to get a 70mm intake running on the car or whether my Uni Tune can be adapted to a 70mm S4 throttle body or not? I am also hoping that someone can pipe in with knowledge about the IE intake too. :)

[chris164935]

Unitronic should have no issue retuning your setup for use with a larger throttle body. Hell, they're the tuners that helped Issam do his throttle body sizing tests. Anyway, I'm not sure what your budget is, but if you can only afford one thing at a time, I would go with the upgraded camshafts first; they will probably yield the greatest increase in power per cost. And, with a quick tweak of your current tune, you should gain even more power. With the bigger turbo, you're looking at needing bigger injectors as well as a completely new tune to for the bigger turbo/injectors.

[nynoah]

Sadly I have the off the shelf uni 630 file. I was not the original buyer so I would have to nefmoto it or get maestro. I am curious about nefmoto but wise enough to know it might be more of a headache than is maestro to tune.

I called up IE and they agreed with you - do cams first. Sadly they don't have any ev3 cams in stock. They do have just the ev3 intake alone. But not sure if I should just buy the dual cams rather than buying twice.

Also anyone have a 70mm s4 tb for sale?

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[GOODBYNAAIR]

is that the same TB from a 2.7 a6 or all raod ? 3 of them at the yard by me.

[nynoah]

is that the same TB from a 2.7 a6 or all raod ? 3 of them at the yard by me.

Should be the same. What yard is that?

[GOODBYNAAIR]

crazy rays mt airy this was last week. the all road was just dropped off and the 2 a6s had most of the parts left. 35 min from bmore if your down town


yellowpages

[nynoah]

Well it looks like I have some junk yard hunting to do.

[melomandn]

Well it looks like I have some junk yard hunting to do.

Just a point of note so that you grab the wrong one, the 70mm throttle body only came on late model S4's. The early models came with 65mm.

I'm not positive as to how this translates to the A6/allroad engines, but wanted to point out that not all 2.7's came with 70mm throttle body's.

[Seerlah]

The IE cams makes your idle vacuum really low. What this effects is your braking. And as far as upgrading wheels go, you can also give Arnold at Pag Parts a call. He does upgraded wheels also. If you call him, tell him Mitch with the black b5 a4 told you to call bim . Power can def be made with the eliminator housing. Happens many times over. But bische is right, and you need e85 to do it. Person with a b5 back in the days with gt3071r eliminator made over 400whp on e85. Search for his threads. Biketsai's boy (neighbors who were freinds in real life) whose screen name is something like aaronamerica. Something like that.

[nynoah]

Just a point of note so that you grab the wrong one, the 70mm throttle body only came on late model S4's. The early models came with 65mm.

I'm not positive as to how this translates to the A6/allroad engines, but wanted to point out that not all 2.7's came with 70mm throttle body's.

Cool found the part number. 0 280 750 047 ebay has some for a decent cost. Not sure if I can get cheaper than $70.

The IE cams makes your idle vacuum really low. What this effects is your braking. And as far as upgrading wheels go, you can also give Arnold at Pag Parts a call. He does upgraded wheels also. If you call him, tell him Mitch with the black b5 a4 told you to call bim . Power can def be made with the eliminator housing. Happens many times over. But bische is right, and you need e85 to do it. Person with a b5 back in the days with gt3071r eliminator made over 400whp on e85. Search for his threads. Biketsai's boy (neighbors who were freinds in real life) whose screen name is something like aaronamerica. Something like that.

Do all cams do that or just IE?

I am going to be tuning for 93 octane. I wonder what the max I should shout for an still be semi reliable?

[Seerlah]

Just the IE cams. They have really aggressive profiles. PM Poopie. He runs them and how I found out about the terrible vacuum. He is also stroker. 1.8t would be worse. Someone else I know also said the IE intake manifold caused a different issue. But you can't compare setups. Apples to oranges.

[nynoah]

So what cams are the best?

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[chris164935]

IE cams. Lol. All high profile cams will sacrifice vacuum. IEs are the best in the price range because they're the simplest to install. But, I think they are out of stock again...

[Seerlah]

It really depends on preference. IE will make the most power. But for a street car, you need to research yourself. I personally would not sacrifice braking for more hp. Setup configuration also plays a role. For example, your stock mess that sits under your intake manifold. It is designed to create more vacuum. So if you deleted it, then the IE cams would have more effect on vacuum than a car that still has it.

When I finally do get around to building my head (will pick it up from getting ported pretty soon. friend hook up and both of us are in no rush), I personally don't plan on running IE cams. Cat cams are still tried and proven, and I am leaning towards that route.

[nynoah]

There is a guy selling Piper Cams ultimate road cams on the board. I don't know much about them.
http://www.pipercams.co.uk/pipercams...id=AUD20TBP285

IE does have the singular intake cams in stock. I am not sure if I want just an intake cam. I figure I should do both intake and exhaust. But advice is always welcome.

I also plan on trying to keep as much of the stock vacuum system as possible. There is a reason for all the check valves in the system.

[Seerlah]

Guy selling the Piper cams is cool (Pete). He is a mechanic, works in Queens and lives in Brooklyn (or vice versa). Was active years back in this section, but pretty sure he has an S4 now. Sold him my Mocal oil cooler and is trustworthy. I also want those cams and are far from cheap. Very street friendly. He notched them already for correct timing. Was going to buy them off him and he was willing to give me a discount with payment plan (az member perks). Never pursued. But yeah, solid cams for sure.

[nynoah]

Would you think those cams would be too extreme for street duty? I am worried about the vacuum issue. I love good brakes more than power.

[Seerlah]

I would PM him and inquire.

[nynoah]

Got my head back from the shop 12 new super tech valves later.


Apparently my keyway also nearly sheered off. So I need to get a new cam gear before I put it all back together.



Sadly the weather in MD has taken a huge dip in temp. last week it was great. This week freezing with snow on the way. I am working outside on the street under a street lamp post not the warmest of options. But I will get it done, but I am holding out for a litter better temps. It always warms up after a big cold dip.

[chris164935]

Honestly, I don't think the vacuum thing is that big of a deal... For street use, I think you would be fine. If you're going to be out at the weekend road course events all the time, then the stiffer brake pedal might be an issue. The car is only in vacuum when you aren't giving it throttle anyway. At worse, you might have to press a little harder on the brake pedal to stop. But searching did not turn up any results of people complaining about the vacuum at idle of IE's camshafts. Also, check this out: http://www.audizine.com/forum/showth...=1#post8849820 Not sure if you were only interested in the IECVA1 set though.
Those Piper cams might be alright. Website claims 20 hp increase, not very impressive but I'm assuming that's with a stock turbo... At close to the price of IE cams, might just be better to wait.
Also, the reason for the check valves in the vacuum hose system is so you don't send 20 psi of boost into your crankcase or brake booster or vacuum reservoir (if you still have that).