B8 A4 DIY: K04 Installation

[Frinkferta]

[QUOTE=Frinkferta;9986737]I still don't know where this goes, everything has a gasket. It doesn't match any of the outlets. Keith at APR said it goes into the oil pan, but I didn't take anything off the engine oil pan.

I went to the Audi dealership on my lunch to grab a few more bolts/nuts. I asked about the gasket, they said it was the wrong size/gasket. I purchased the one shown on the diagram below #21. It looks to be the correct size, thinking back I cannot recall if I had installed a new gasket already, so I will have this one in case it starts to leak. I am crossing my fingers it doesn't!

[ddun]

Figure it out now! If it leaks you're gonna have to disconnect the lower coolant line on the turbo and drain coolant to get to that oil line again, I found out the hard way! I reused the old gasket just to save the new for backup but it leaked.

The pcv to turbo gasket, and oil line gaskets are 1 time use after it's crushed

[Frinkferta]

Figure it out now! If it leaks you're gonna have to disconnect the lower coolant line on the turbo and drain coolant to get to that oil line again, I found out the hard way! I reused the old gasket just to save the new for backup but it leaked.

The pcv to turbo gasket, and oil line gaskets are 1 time use after it's crushed

Wow! Ok! So the gasket leaked on you then? Bummer...Did you reuse the crush washers on the coolant line?

[ddun]

For crush washers Lower plug and lower line yes dropped all of em trying to line it up, oil line washer yes kit didn't come with one, upper coolant line had a new one

The oil line on the turbo 'sweated' a lil but I was able to torque a tad and it stopped

Ideally yeah you want new ones but in my case it held up, it's up to you to risk it. They're easy to service if it does, except for the top coolant line if that leaks gotta pull the turbo

[Frinkferta]

For crush washers Lower plug and lower line yes dropped all of em trying to line it up, oil line washer yes kit didn't come with one, upper coolant line had a new one

The oil line on the turbo 'sweated' a lil but I was able to torque a tad and it stopped

Ideally yeah you want new ones but in my case it held up, it's up to you to risk it. They're easy to service if it does, except for the top coolant line if that leaks gotta pull the turbo

Alright, I might just replace the gasket just in case, since I can't recall if I used a new gasket or not. However, since I still have the gasket APR provided, I think I didn't...

[Frinkferta]

Got the new gasket in. Thankfully I didn't have to remove the coolant line. I used a torx 40 Allen to access the two bolts.or you can use a 6mm allen


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[SixFootSix]

Thinking about getting one of these.
Did you have the APR tune before?
How much difference was there in the car?

[zokissima]

Whose kit did you use?

[Mod.Kill.Yut.]

I'm having a hard time "finagling" the turbo out of the engine compartment. It's such a tight fight.. Any suggestions?


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[Jerry1847]

I'm having a hard time "finagling" the turbo out of the engine compartment. It's such a tight fight.. Any suggestions?


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I'm assuming you removed the cat already? Seemed like there would have been a bunch of room with that out... Going to do this next month so please keep us posted.

[Fburg A4]

Not sure where you're getting hung up, but you could always try jacking up on one side of the motor a little bit if you need a little space.

[Mod.Kill.Yut.]

I'm assuming you removed the cat already? Seemed like there would have been a bunch of room with that out... Going to do this next month so please keep us posted.

The cat is already removed. This is a picture of the stock turbo as it is currently




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[Mod.Kill.Yut.]

Got the old turbo out finally. Now swapping the lines from old to new. Here they are side by side


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[ddun]

Good luck, it'll be worth it

[B44]

Great write up Dan, but I have. Few questions after installing kO4 need to upgrade to better injectors? Also can I use forge dv on ko4 or stock dv is better.

[Jerry1847]

Great write up Dan, but I have. Few questions after installing kO4 need to upgrade to better injectors? Also can I use forge dv on ko4 or stock dv is better.

Don't need injectors. Sock dv should be fine, I'm using the GFB dv+ kit for the stock dv, forge seems to be good also....

[Jerry1847]

Got my turbo out nice and easy. Only hangup was getting the bottom brackets loose. None of the upper studs came out.

Just need my fmic to show up tomorrow so I can finish up...

[shaunm82]

Got my turbo out nice and easy. Only hangup was getting the bottom brackets loose. None of the upper studs came out.

Just need my fmic to show up tomorrow so I can finish up...

Nice Jerry, excited to see your results man!

[Frinkferta]

Got my turbo out nice and easy. Only hangup was getting the bottom brackets loose. None of the upper studs came out.

Just need my fmic to show up tomorrow so I can finish up...

Did you end up purchasing a K04? I remember you asking about some different turbo options. The K04 is an awesome upgrade! I look forward to your reviews.

[Brenzo503]

Props on a great write up!

[Jerry1847]

I got a used frankenturbo while I learn how to tune with maestro.

I need some help! The coolant line, WTF!! The port seems a bit lower on the new turbo. The line is at an odd angle and not flush with the turbo. The bolt will not thread. Spent like two hours trying to get it on with no luck.

Any of you guys have this issue? Any recommendations on getting it lined up? I'm about to try and take everything back off and try to get the bolt on with a loose turbo.

FMIC came in late so that will be on tomorrow. Just need to regap my plugs and adjust my suspension after that.

[zokissima]

Keeping up to date with you. How did it turn out with the bolt? Got a pic?

[Fburg A4]

I was kind of facing a similar situation but with an oil line. I ended up making a braided steel line. A lot easier to work with than rigid steel lines that you essentially need to bend if things aren't lining up.

[ddun]

I tried to partially thread it and try to thread slowly but it would never take, glad it didn't I would've probably stripped something. on the APR K04, there were 2 coolant ports, one was plugged, I had to switch them, I was on the verge of calling the hotline before I figured that out!

on the pic above of your frankenturbo I see 2 coolant ports with 1 plugged. try switching it see how it goes

[Jerry1847]

Like ddun said, just had to swap the bung from the upper to the lower port for the coolant line. The line will go in the upper hole.

Sadly, turbo had to come back out to adjust the bung. It was on super tight and required lots of heat to get it off. Once the bung was moved and the turbo back on it was easy getting the coolant line back on.

Messing with the fmic and gapping plugs tonight or tomorrow am (after hunting)

[Jerry1847]

So, got up and running yesterday. Had some issues with the FMIC I picked up (missing a pipe) but was able to reuse the trufit silicon hose until I get the missing link. Also regaped my plugs to .28 (probably closer to .285 as only had the coin gauge thing). Loaded the eurodyne k04 tune and boom! Limp mode! Then I pulled my head out of my ass and pluged in my maf sensor. Then boom! All good!

I'm happy with the tune so far. The guy I got the frankenturbo from wasn't happy with the eurodyne tune but I think its fine. I would NEVER pay retail for a K04, not worth it IMO. For the 1500 I spent for the tuner and turbo, I'm happy, but still will be going BT in the spring.

Compared to stage 2, low end feels the same to me, under 3k. Top end is way better and great on the highway. I have my speed limiter at 90 and was hitting it repeatedly passing people today. So def an improvement. And....32mpg.

[A4 Centaur]

Good news! Great to hear and I echo the comment about the retail price for a K04.

No reason for that at all!

[zokissima]

Glad to see that you got all this up and running, from the sounds of it, in a fairly easy manner.

What version of maestro did you buy? Did you buy the frankenturbo used and did it include the Eurodyne tune?

How many hours have you ran it now? Any issues so far?

[Jerry1847]

The install really isnt that bad. Just be sure to have all the tools required first. Some of the bolts are hard to access, mostly the passenger coolant line.

I got the full maestro suite, $800 but came out to be like $750 with the exchange rate somehow. I picked up maestro a couple months ago planning to do a BT last week. I just didn't have time to learn the software in time. Maestro did not have a file for the turbo I want (gtx2867) so I would have to do a lot of tuning. I ran the stage 2 file for a month first. Just asked for the k04 file and they sent it over. Would def recommend eurodyne so far.

Got the frankenturbo used. The PO got the tune from frankenturbo and wasn't happy, had trouble with surge or something. Doug at franken turbo was very responsive with questions and I'm happy with the tune so far.

I drove a few test drives at my farm and then drove it ~200 miles home. Def got on the gas, more than a few times. Didn't give it WOT much yet, just a couple times on the highway passing. Will get on it more this weekend when I get home from business travel.

[B44]

Don't need injectors. Sock dv should be fine, I'm using the GFB dv+ kit for the stock dv, forge seems to be good also....

Thanks buddy

[Schrubbe8210]

People ask me for this a lot, here is the parts list I used to install.

[bakedziti]

Make sure the upper coolant lines on the turbo are all torqued, and the gaskets make sure you're good to go before you torque down because they will only crush once

Also on mine I couldn't line up the lower coolant line, there's 2 ports 1 is plugged I had to switch em, so check that once the turbo is dropped in before you start reassembly

Could anyone help me with the torque parameters for the coolant banjo bolt?

Spent my weekend tackling this project on my A4, but ended up with a coolant leak. I didn't call the hotline, although I was definitely super frustrated. Ended up pulling the turbo back out, and putting it back it. I am concerned that the brass crush washers I received in my install kit from ECS were too wide, or I just haven't "crushed" them enough to get a proper seal.

Any ideas?

[A4 Centaur]

I would try to heat the washers up if they are copper and then re-instal. Heating the washers up can give them a little "life" however, if they are aluminum that is a no-go.

You can get those crush washers from any parts store, but the weak like can often be the banjo bolt itself. Good luck!

[bakedziti]

I would try to heat the washers up if they are copper and then re-instal. Heating the washers up can give them a little "life" however, if they are aluminum that is a no-go.

You can get those crush washers from any parts store, but the weak like can often be the banjo bolt itself. Good luck!

Thank you! I will certainly try this, as I am really at a loss. It looks as if the coolant is leaking from the bottom M8 bolt of the oil return line flange, the side connected to the turbo, not the block; but no coolant runs through that line, so it must be dripping from the hard coolant line. I am concerned that the line could have kinked, so I may just replace it while I have the car in the air. The rest of the seals seem to be good, but the coolant line and the banjo bolt are the only feasible culprits at this point. The only thing that sticks in my mind is the fact that the original banjo bolt and crush washers didn't come out of the hard coolant line when I removed the original turbo. They just stuck there, and I had to use a pair of needle nose pliers to remove the top crush washer. The new crush washer doesn't look crushed at all, its flat as can be, so I am unsure if I need to tighten down on it further, or if there should be an o-ring or something in there.

[ddun]

There are 2 holes for the coolant on the side, one should be plugged. Use whichever allows for easier installation should be able to thread it by hand. Also the plug needs a crush washer too.

If it doesn't look crushed it's Probly not seated all the way, you might be cross threading. Should be a crush washer on each side of the banjo bolt.

There's also another coolant line behind the turbo under the manifold, that one is installed when out of the car, check to see if that is dripping.

[bakedziti]

There are 2 holes for the coolant on the side, one should be plugged. Use whichever allows for easier installation should be able to thread it by hand. Also the plug needs a crush washer too.

If it doesn't look crushed it's Probly not seated all the way, you might be cross threading. Should be a crush washer on each side of the banjo bolt.

There's also another coolant line behind the turbo under the manifold, that one is installed when out of the car, check to see if that is dripping.

I only have a single coolant port for the lower coolant line, as I did an OEM swap. I got a great deal on an OEM turbo, and couldn't support all of the associated mods at this time to go KO4. I have become very comfortable with this process, due to the fact that I spent all of last Saturday following your 2 DIYs, only to re-do everything in about 5 hours on Sunday due to this leak, so maybe I'll go K04 after a tune and some time.

Referencing Mod.Kill.Yut's picture in post #53, it looked like coolant was dripping from the M8 bolt you can see on the oil return line in the picture when under the car, but clearly coolant doesn't run through that line, so it has to be the crush washers on the lower coolant line. I used new washers, but then never looked crushed. I ordered a new coolant line, new banjo bolt, and 4 new crush washers, but am waiting for these parts to arrive. I plan to try just the new crush washers first, because they are aluminum OEM, and not the copper aftermarket ones the ECS install kit provided.

I really can't thank you enough for this DIY. You saved me a ton of cash, and helped me tackle a job I wouldn't have dreamed of previously. I'll report back this weekend when I have all of this sorted out. In the meantime, I'm driving the family 8.5 allroad; could be worse.

[bakedziti]

Finally figured this out, but man do I feel stupid. Turns out that I did not install the turbo-side sealing washer (#37 in post 41 of this thread). Luckily I was able to remove the coolant line banjo bolt, and add sealing washers on both sides without removing the turbo. I a 3/8 hex socket (link below), and knocked out the 8mm hex part with a punch while in a vice. This was better than cutting my 8mm ball end allen key, because I could then use an 8mm box end wrench to loosen, and tighten the banjo bolt again. I did something similar for the T55 banjo bolts for the other coolant line (link also below). Both of these sockets were available at all of my surrounding Home Depots for $1.97 each.

http://m.homedepot.com/p/Husky-3-8-i...S8MM/202913544
http://m.homedepot.com/p/Husky-T55-T...ST55/202940696

I'm just glad all went well after that; filled it with coolant and was ready to go. I found that the coil pack harness was not completely clipped in upon startup, but thankfully carista helped me with that. No problems since, but the test will be this weekend with a 1,000 trip.

Thanks again for you help!

[richardm0025]

Anyone know where I can find torque specs for coolant and oil lines?


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[kt883]

First, this is an awesome DIY! Actually replacing a bad turbo as of right now...

Second, let me add to help fellow DIY'ers!

For the T-55 coolant fitting, we had purchased a set of these TORX bits from your local parts store (Autozone, O'rielly's) previously for another job. Using this and a 10mm angle wrench, we were able to easily loosen the bolt. Here are pictures of the pack of bits and a picture of how:




Have fun!!!!

Much better idea is to use a flex head ratcheting combination wrench. Such a great tool makes wrenching in tight spaces much easier - great for removing 3 of the cat bolts too

[poweredbyaudi7]

Much better idea is to use a flex head ratcheting combination wrench. Such a great tool makes wrenching in tight spaces much easier - great for removing 3 of the cat bolts too

I cannot picture this tool. This a ratcheting wrench with a swivel box end?


http://www.craftsman.com/craftsman-7...4&blockType=G4