Unitronic Stage 1+ Only Getting 15psi

[CrazyCal]

Unitronic 1+ is supposed to be 18psi. The tuning shop agrees and they run Uni 1+ all the time.

[Charles.waite]

Unitronic 1+ is supposed to be 18psi. The tuning shop agrees and they run Uni 1+ all the time.

Shit I hit 19 all the time on apr stage 1 so I would hope a 1+ tune could hit 18...

How are your check valves? I was hitting 15 or less a few months back and after I replaced all my check valves, the injector seats and the pcv with an 034 kit, I peak 18-19 psi all day.

[CrazyCal]

Shit I hit 19 all the time on apr stage 1 so I would hope a 1+ tune could hit 18...

How are your check valves? I was hitting 15 or less a few months back and after I replaced all my check valves, the injector seats and the pcv with an 034 kit, I peak 18-19 psi all day.

Check valves probably need to be replaced.

[boostedAvant]

No one wants to hear about you peaking CP.

[CrazyCal]

Shit I hit 19 all the time on apr stage 1 so I would hope a 1+ tune could hit 18...

How are your check valves? I was hitting 15 or less a few months back and after I replaced all my check valves, the injector seats and the pcv with an 034 kit, I peak 18-19 psi all day.

I didn't get to finish my last response to you, Charles. Had to actually work at work. lol

Unitronic Stage 1+ is not the same as APR Stage 1+. It doesn't require the TT225 injectors like APR 1+ does. It goes like this:

Unitronic Stages
Stage 1 - 91 Octane. No mods required. 16.5psi
Stage 1+ - 93 Octane. No Mods Required. 18psi
Stage 2 - 93 Octane. Testpipe and TT225 injectors required. 20psi (Full exhaust recommended)

It actually says on the Uni website that Stage 1+ and Stage 2 both run 18 psi, but my tuning shop said that Stage 2 runs 20psi. Might be a typo on the Uni website. I can't imagine having a full exhaust and TT225 injectors and only run 18psi.

The nice thing about a Unitronic tune is it will adapt to whatever fuel you are using. So, even though I only have 92 available to me, I can still run the 93 file. And that's actually what my tuning shop recommended to me and said it's what most locals run.












I think I'm just going to replace all my check valves. Sounds like something that needs to be done anyway. Off to Noti-land and the engine strengthening thread...

[CrazyCal]

You know, I haven't visited the Engine Strengthening Thread in quite a while. After visiting the first page and seeing that there is now "Thread Navigation" and a "Global Parts List", I have one thing to say to you:

Bra-freakin-vo!

Seriously, Bravo, Thomas. Bravo for a fantastic thread. I would kiss you right now if I could for making my life that much easier. It's probably better for both of us that you're not here. lol

You deserve a round of applause:

[CrazyCal]

While you're thread is amazing, Thomas.... I think I'm just going to start ripping all the vac crap out. I don't need it. We don't have inspections in my area.



This is my plan. Anyone care to check my work in the CV simplification thread? Clickity Click

[Charles.waite]

No one wants to hear about you peaking CP.

Jelly. So jelly...

[lisek99]

Did you think about trying this?

http://www.audizine.com/forum/showth...ate-Adjustment

[CrazyCal]

^
Thanks for the suggestion, but I guess I don't understand why I would need to adjust my wastegate if others don't have to when they go Stage 1.

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[DNasty777]

Yeah, I think the only time that would be an issue is if you were dicking around with it before or if you replaced it.

[CrazyCal]

So, I did the Vac removal/simplification today. Car idles SO smooth now. Like buttah. Seems to just run stronger in general. Engine bay looks fantastic too without the rats nest. Now that I can see the back of the engine, I noticed I have a small coolant leak from the rear flange.

My big disappointment: I'm STILL only getting 15psi. It spikes 16 sometimes. I really don't know what the deal is.

I think my next step is going to be buying a fogger and doing a smoke test. With halloween coming up, foggers are going to be cheap.

[boostedAvant]

Then you can Karaoke all those 80's hair band ballads you always listen to with a real fog machine. Bonus!

[Charles.waite]

Then you can Karaoke all those 80's hair band ballads you always listen to with a real fog machine. Bonus!

I think this thread is just a long, drawn out, dastardly plan so cal could buy a fogger and be able to justify it under tha car maintenance umbrella.

[boostedAvant]

I think this thread is just a long, drawn out, dastardly plan so cal could buy a fogger and be able to justify it under tha car maintenance umbrella.

I think you're on to something here, CP... I certainly wouldn't be at all surprised.

[CrazyCal]

Ran a smoke test tonight. Everything is tight. No leaks.

I am officially stumped. Fuck me, right?

Any ideas??????????

Edit: I reset the ECU tonight and have not gone for a run yet....

[vortexjunkie]

im in for some answers as im having similar issues..though mine is not as bad as 16psi...thats just horrid

[EErie B6]

im in for some answers as im having similar issues..though mine is not as bad as 16psi...thats just horrid

LOL, the sad part is I can picture your expressions saying this.

[walky_talky20]

Can you log 114 and 115 together for us? I want to see what the N75 is doing.

[CrazyCal]

As requested 114 and 115...

I have no idea what I'm looking for here. Ed-jah-ma-kate me please.

[walky_talky20]

Ok, so we are looking at the boost request in relation to the N75 duty cycle. A normal duty cycle on a 1.8T running a ~1.1 bar chip will show 95% duty until it reaches request. This should happen around 2500 rpm. Then the duty should back off to around 75% and pretty much ride there until 5500+. Yours sort of does this, but 75% doesn't quite get you up to where it should be. Then at the top end the N75 has to pull 80 and then 90% to keep the boost up. AFAIK, it shouldn't have to do that. But that may be the stage 1 "+" part of things that is running the turbo harder in the upper range instead of the usual "taper" you get on your average stage 1 tune. Not sure.

[CrazyCal]

So it sounds like my N75 is running pretty much normal.

What does that leave me with now?

[texasboy21]

Your actual boost is not hitting requested boost. Somethings wrong lol

[daverdfw]

not sure if this helps but my thread on finding a very hard to find boost leak

http://www.audizine.com/forum/showth...45#post7897745

When you have the oil cap off while doing the boost leak test, is a lot of air coming out? I posted a video on that thread, Old Guy helped me figure out the issue was a oil breather tube, and the PCV on my late 03 model. Boost leak test seemed fine except for the air coming out of the oil cap. Just wanted to throw that out there. Hope you figure it out!

[CrazyCal]

^
Oil breather tube? Do you mean the block breather tube? I have the 034 billet breather kit.

Your actual boost is not hitting requested boost. Somethings wrong lol

Thank you. So very helpful. lol

[walky_talky20]

It could be the wastegate actuator needs tightened up a bit. Or the N75 valve may be failing (leaking more pressure than it ought to the actuator). A boost leak is another possibility but it sounds like you've ruled that out. As a side note, if you post the logs in text format (csv), or as a google document, then I can graph this so we aren't just staring at numbered boxes.

I'm a little concerned with the very high N75 duty at the top end. I would like to see the same log from a healthy Uni 1+ car to compare.

[daverdfw]

yeah this part

http://www.ecstuning.com/Audi-B6_A4-...ther/ES523283/

not sure if that's replaced by the 034 kit.

[agentsmith988]

It could be the wastegate actuator needs tightened up a bit.

Speaking of the wastegate actuator... has anyone tried this ghetto-tastic mod out on the B6? http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthrea...tor-Spring-Mod Per the write-up in the TT forums, it looks like the amount of WG pressure that is held can be adjusted by using different spring tensions.

Don't know if this would help your issue or maybe just mask stuff... but I'm going to give it a shot as soon as I get my ECU back from Gonzo just for the sake of experimentation

[walky_talky20]

That mod is *so* janky. I can't even. But perhaps not as janky as the TDI "zip tie mod":



But it does up the spring rate of the wastegate. The "correct" way to do that is to get an actuator and installing the desired stiffer spring into it. Something like this:
http://forgemotorsport.com/content.a...duct=FMACVAG02

[CrazyCal]

It could be the wastegate actuator needs tightened up a bit. Or the N75 valve may be failing (leaking more pressure than it ought to the actuator). A boost leak is another possibility but it sounds like you've ruled that out. As a side note, if you post the logs in text format (csv), or as a google document, then I can graph this so we aren't just staring at numbered boxes.

I'm a little concerned with the very high N75 duty at the top end. I would like to see the same log from a healthy Uni 1+ car to compare.

I don't know if I have any way to host text documents, that's why I post them as pictures. Should I just email it to you? PM me your email.

yeah this part

http://www.ecstuning.com/Audi-B6_A4-...ther/ES523283/

not sure if that's replaced by the 034 kit.

Yeah that's replaced by a billet piece in the 034 kit. I highly recommend that kit.

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[Charles.waite]

yeah this part

http://www.ecstuning.com/Audi-B6_A4-...ther/ES523283/

not sure if that's replaced by the 034 kit.

It is.

Holy shit that "spring" mod is seriously suspect. Those Vortex boys really push the...limits... I love the responses on that thread. "Awesome man, totally subscribed n shit!"

Bozos...

[walky_talky20]

I don't know if I have any way to host text documents

lol. You can just post the csv text right in as a reply. Let AZ "host" it. Here is an example:

,Group A:,001,,,,Group B:,020,,,,Group C:,034,,,
,0,2320,93,16.4,1101001,0.17,0,0,0,0,0.34,2360,650 ,1.25,B1-S1 OK
,0.51,2360,93,19.5,1100001,0.68,0,0,0,0,0.86,2480, 655,1.25,B1-S1 OK
,1.03,2520,93,8.6,1100001,1.2,0,0,0,0,1.37,2600,66 0,1.25,B1-S1 OK
,1.54,2640,93,-1.6,1101001,1.71,0,0,0,0,1.89,2760,665,1.25,B1-S1 OK
,2.06,2800,93,-1.6,1101001,2.23,0,0,0,0,2.4,2920,675,1.25,B1-S1 OK
,2.57,3000,93,0,1101001,2.74,0,0,0,0,2.92,3200,690 ,1.25,B1-S1 OK
,3.09,3320,93,12.5,1101001,3.26,0,3,0,0,3.43,3560, 720,1.25,B1-S1 OK
,3.6,3640,93,25,1101001,3.77,0,3,0,0,3.94,3880,740 ,1.25,B1-S1 OK
,4.12,4000,93,25,1101001,4.29,3,3,3,6,4.46,4200,77 0,1.25,B1-S1 OK
,4.63,4320,93,25,1101001,4.8,3,3,3,6,4.97,4560,795 ,1.25,B1-S1 OK
,5.15,4640,93,25,1101001,5.32,3,3,3,6,5.49,4840,81 0,1.25,B1-S1 OK

Just post it like that, then I can graph it. If you want, that is.

[Charles.waite]

lol. You can just post the csv text right in as a reply. Let AZ "host" it. Here is an example:

,Group A:,001,,,,Group B:,020,,,,Group C:,034,,,
,0,2320,93,16.4,1101001,0.17,0,0,0,0,0.34,2360,650 ,1.25,B1-S1 OK
,0.51,2360,93,19.5,1100001,0.68,0,0,0,0,0.86,2480, 655,1.25,B1-S1 OK
,1.03,2520,93,8.6,1100001,1.2,0,0,0,0,1.37,2600,66 0,1.25,B1-S1 OK
,1.54,2640,93,-1.6,1101001,1.71,0,0,0,0,1.89,2760,665,1.25,B1-S1 OK
,2.06,2800,93,-1.6,1101001,2.23,0,0,0,0,2.4,2920,675,1.25,B1-S1 OK
,2.57,3000,93,0,1101001,2.74,0,0,0,0,2.92,3200,690 ,1.25,B1-S1 OK
,3.09,3320,93,12.5,1101001,3.26,0,3,0,0,3.43,3560, 720,1.25,B1-S1 OK
,3.6,3640,93,25,1101001,3.77,0,3,0,0,3.94,3880,740 ,1.25,B1-S1 OK
,4.12,4000,93,25,1101001,4.29,3,3,3,6,4.46,4200,77 0,1.25,B1-S1 OK
,4.63,4320,93,25,1101001,4.8,3,3,3,6,4.97,4560,795 ,1.25,B1-S1 OK
,5.15,4640,93,25,1101001,5.32,3,3,3,6,5.49,4840,81 0,1.25,B1-S1 OK

Just post it like that, then I can graph it. If you want, that is.

I thought AZ had character limits.

You could try pastebin.

[CrazyCal]

The guys at my local Uni tuning shop (JD Autosports) confirmed that my N75 is acting a little goofy, I just went ahead and ordered a new N75 valve. It's job is pretty important, so I don't mind having a new one in there. My N75 version "C" has been on the car since new (over 100K miles) so it's definitely had it's run. I ordered a Revision "E" from 034 Motorsport. As always, 034 is amazing. Their customer service TOP NOTCH. Laszlo, you kick ass.

Really, if this doesn't work, it only leaves the turbo to blame. Or the highly unlikely possibility that the tuning shop gave me the wrong tune (Uni Stage 1).

Either way, I need things in order before I install my 034 3" downpipe (can't wait for it to get here) and go Stage 2. So, putting down some cash on a new N75 to replace my old, outdated one, is just insurance for my turbo and engine.

[Charles.waite]

lately my weird little partial throttle power cut has been getting worse. Its the strangest thing. Going up a slight incline or just on level ground if I give it a little gas, just over the threshold of spooling the turbo up, it'll drop to 0psi, the car sorta dies for a second or two, then ramps back up again like nothing happened. I wonder if my N75 is being a bitch too... I need to loop my N249 (maybe I'll do it this weekend). the thing is it doesn't do it when I reset the ECU, it slowly kicks in after the ecu re-adapts. Last I checked my fuel trims were fine. New-ish fuel filter and brand new pump. Regardless its done it since before the new filter and pump so its not those... Car pulls hard under WOT though with no power cut. One of these days I'll do some logging...

[CrazyCal]

Installed my new, twice updated (from C to E), N75 valve today. Once again, I am left with nothing but disappointment. In fact, I seem to have dropped to 14psi. I am so beyond irritated now. I will post logs a little later to see if there's any difference between the old N75 and the new.

[CrazyCal]

Looks pretty much the same as the old N75...

[CrazyCal]

Reset the ECU and ran a TBA. It occurred to me that I didn't do this. We'll see if that does anything...

[lisek99]

I had exact same problem as you man. Brand new K04 after about 6 months went from 20 psi to 14 psi. I tried everything and the only thing that helped was wastegate adjustment. I posted a DIY somewhere on the first page for you. Now I'm peaking 23 psi but you can adjust to 20 if you want to, you just have to play around with it.

[CrazyCal]

But manually adjusting the wastegate negates the entire purpose of the N75. Just because you can adjust the wastegate manually doesn't mean you should. There's a reason things are not functioning properly and I need to find out what it is. Manually forcing the wastegate like you suggest instead of allowing it to be properly regulated by the ECU could cause serious problems.

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