
Originally Posted by
esz61
1) Are you just changing tires? You mention that at first but then you mention wheels and brakes.
2) The effect of changing the rotational mass is related to the change in mass as well as to the location of the additional mass relative to the axis of rotation, as I think you may have considered (you mention diameter but radius is the distance you're concerned with).
3) You state that 'the rotational "loss" is all but the same as the "loss" due to just putting on 20 lbs of non-rotating weight, so it's equivalent to adding 40 lbs of non-rotating weight". How did you calculate that? Generally speaking, adding rotational mass will have a greater negative effect than just adding that same mass elsewhere on the car.
4) Increasing the unsprung weight is always detrimental to the cars handling, particularly it's ability to respond to road imperfections.
1) & 2) I am changing tires which led to this - I calculated the torque it would take to accelerate that extra mass both in rotational motion, and in linear motion. While I had the spreadsheet, I looked wheels/brakes too, since I know those are other things that people change to save weight - I was just curious how much it affects things - you can see from the rotor #'s that since they are so close to the axle there is little required to spin them up - it's almost like putting weight in the trunk for acceleration. And yes, I used radius for the calculations.
3) The torque required to spin up the tires was about 1.5 ft-lbs at peak, and the torque required to accelerate that 20 lbs forward (linear) was also very close to 1.5 ft-lbs - the of 3.0 ft-lbs is the same as having 2x as much non-rotating added weight.

Originally Posted by
Info@EuroCode
Thanks for the link.

Originally Posted by
MrFunk
I see you comparing two tires - one being 20lbs more than the other...
BUT - did you compare each tire to the one already on the car?
I have Continental DW's on the car - same weight as the PSS. The Pilot super sport's test and are rated VERY highly, so there is no doubt they are better than the DW - they are also about $60 per tire more though. /shrug/ not a huge deal, but they are max perf summer tires (like the DW) and will likely wear out in 20-25k miles with my driving.
The RE970 are UHP all season, but also highly ranked and top of their test at tire-rack. $30 cheaper per tire and have a 40,000 mile treadlife warranty - including that, it might be effectively about $100 per tire difference. I wouldn't call what I did as "fancy calculations" - I guessed at a few numbers and multiplied/divided them appropriately in a spreadsheet to get a rough feel for the effect. I honestly didn't know if it would be .01% or 2+% when I started.
I'm leaning toward the PSS, but just wanted to look at all aspects. This simple calculation is just one piece - I learned something about the relative amount of torque required for rotational and linear acceleration and that for these cars it's fairly small. Unfortunately I can't test drive both tires before buying.
Again - thanks to everyone for the info/comments.
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