It's time

[redline380]

Your good bro

Yea your fine

thanks. i was guessing. maestro will be here tomorrow probably before 5 or so. should have it runnin by then. also, check out what i picked up for $60...

[donkeysaudi]

nice steel! ha ha see what i did there

[redline380]

nice steel! ha ha see what i did there

hardy har har but seriously its a panzer plate. not bad considering they are 250$ new

[M-Hood]

Has there been oil in the turbo before?

Every turbo will have had oil in it even if it is brand new since they run oil in them when they are balanced and tested.

[redline380]

well maestro came. got everything installed just fine, loaded the awm 630cc base map, and it starts just fine. i am having a problem. i cant figure out how to turn off the damn maf. any help on this?

[SS92]

well maestro came. got everything installed just fine, loaded the awm 630cc base map, and it starts just fine. i am having a problem. i cant figure out how to turn off the damn maf. any help on this?

The AWM Base maps were just recently added. I don't think Chris has added the maffless files yet, maybe try emailing him? I was using one of the VW base files before the AWM's were released.

[redline380]

The AWM Base maps were just recently added. I don't think Chris has added the maffless files yet, maybe try emailing him? I was using one of the VW base files before the AWM's were released.

its kinda weird. it says right in there that the option for mafless will be in the menu. it isnt in the menu. i have the option of four different maf housings, but no option for mafless

[redline380]

i called justin from stellar autoworks, the shop i purchased maestro through. he said that all you need to do to run mafless is just unplug the maf. guess this works. on startup, i got three codes. some comm link error code, p0600, n75 code, and intake temp too high code. cleared with maestro and plugged n75 in. no more codes, not even one for maf. i drove it up and down my driveway and even got into 5 psi of boost. seems to run pretty decent for just a base map. i still dont have exhaust on it or a bumper, so i cant really take it on the road. hopefully we got time tonight to weld up the exhaust. if i can round up a camera maybe ill take a video. but the car idles pretty good now and revs right up. still havent had it past 4 grand though. got to break in those rings properly

[Seerlah]

Nice to see things are coming along nicely. But for the piston ring break in, people usually just beat the sh*t out of their cars while driving a lot in vacuum. Look it up. Matter of fact, I did it for you.

http://mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm

http://www.audizine.com/forum/showth...hard-or-gentle

[redline380]

Nice to see things are coming along nicely. But for the piston ring break in, people usually just beat the sh*t out of their cars while driving a lot in vacuum. Look it up. Matter of fact, I did it for you.

http://mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm

http://www.audizine.com/forum/showth...hard-or-gentle

thats kinda what i thought. i did already get into high boost, aka 18psi. the trouble is the car wasnt moving very fast, certainly not like how it should. not sure if im in limp mode and its limiting my timing. after i got the first cel, i cleared and it came back. i didnt check the new codes that came up. ill probably ask a whole string of questions tomorrow because the only thing limiting me taking this on the open road is the lack of an exhaust (and a bumper, but thats just a technicality ) we should be putting the exhaust in tonight. also, im kinda pissed this thing is fluttering like a bitch around 5psi. its really bad. i think ill hook my boost controller onto the n75 to see if it helps. i knew there would be some kinks in the system. oh and my fuel pressure gauge bounces around from 35 to 45 psi at idle. is this normally? i hope its just a shitty gauge or something

[Seerlah]

If your fuel pressure gauge bounces, I am going to say you either have a faulty fpr or your gauge is just crap. My Autometer one took a dump on me like 2 days after install. My Summit Racing replacement never gave me an issue.

[redline380]

well killed two birds with one stone tonight. fixed the pulled timing and high intake temps. realized i had the plug for one of the solenoids beneath the intake many (think its the n249) plugged into the intake temp sensor feel like an idiot. car has much more power. now i just gotta figure out the flutter/surge problem and i should be good to go

[Seerlah]

Explain your flutter/surge issue. If MAFless, you won't have linear or steady power at part throttle/part boost. If that is what you mean, you will get used to it after a while. Really makes the car feel like a robot.

[flynnr]

It could be your external wastegate venting off unused air at part throttle.

[redline380]

Explain your flutter/surge issue. If MAFless, you won't have linear or steady power at part throttle/part boost. If that is what you mean, you will get used to it after a while. Really makes the car feel like a robot.

It could be your external wastegate venting off unused air at part throttle.

starting at 0 psi, the boost gauge starts to bounce back and forth pretty bad, by about five to seven psi. after 10 psi, the gauge smooths out and builds boost evenly. forgot to mention, you can feel the turbo trying to build boost during the time the gauge is boucing. it just doesnt feel right to me, but it could just be the dirt road i live in making me feel things that arent actually there

[BlazinB5]

solution: VR6 turbo swap

[Seerlah]

starting at 0 psi, the boost gauge starts to bounce back and forth pretty bad, by about five to seven psi. after 10 psi, the gauge smooths out and builds boost evenly. forgot to mention, you can feel the turbo trying to build boost during the time the gauge is boucing. it just doesnt feel right to me, but it could just be the dirt road i live in making me feel things that arent actually there

This does not happen at WOT, correct? If this is happening at part throttle, it is normal. You have a BT now. It will never have that stock like driveability again. Not even the driveability of a flashed ECU for the stock turbo by a long shot. Get used to it and relearn how to drive your car. It is not the same.

I assume you mean it will fluctuate between like 3-7psi during part throttle? If so, completely normal. This is why people who can run MAFless choose not to. The part throttle driveability is said to be better with a MAF.

[redline380]

This does not happen at WOT, correct? If this is happening at part throttle, it is normal. You have a BT now. It will never have that stock like driveability again. Not even the driveability of a flashed ECU for the stock turbo by a long shot. Get used to it and relearn how to drive your car. It is not the same.

I assume you mean it will fluctuate between like 3-7psi during part throttle? If so, completely normal. This is why people who can run MAFless choose not to. The part throttle driveability is said to be better with a MAF.

well it does happen at any throttle angle, but it smoothes out after boost builds to ten psi. its gotten better in first gear, but the higher the gear, the worse it is.

progress tonight was slow. we finally started the exhaust, but only got to the first pipe after the downpipe. it took a few hours to get it placed correctly, and not having a hoist didnt help any. after we got that pipe on, we took it for a little rip. the car was still kinda slow at this point, even though it boosted to 18. dont know what it was, but i accidentially boosted to about 30 psi. the boost line came off. threw a small clamp on it and took it for another rip. things went a little better, but my temps are very high. i think the oil got up to 300 degrees at one point and my coolant is a bit past the middle mark. i am hoping its just because the rings are still getting ground down, creating a lot of friction and more heat. when i left the shop and got to my driveway, i decided to do one last 1st gear pull, and the thing ripped pretty good. i still wouldnt say its fast, but i can tell things are getting better. again, im being optimistic that its just the ecu adapting to the tune. i really want to get the exhaust on so i can drive around town

[Seerlah]

No expert, but 300* motor oil temp isn't good no matter how you look at it. And I always thought 250 was bad, which it really is.

[redline380]

No expert, but 300* motor oil temp isn't good no matter how you look at it. And I always thought 250 was bad, which it really is.

well i ripped around the block today and its running a little better. coolant temps are still over halfway mark at idle, but go back to where they should be while cruising. oil temps are better and didnt get over 250 today, so im guessing i just gotta get some miles on this thing. if i only can find some time to get this damn exhaust in

[spindoctor]

How do you like your clutch?

[redline380]

How do you like your clutch?

the car isnt making enough power to compromise the clutch yet. although i got my 630cc base tune in it, im still waiting to get a 2871r file from tapp. hopefully he emails me back tomorrow. it feels about like a chipped ecu, but with more power at top. afr values arent as rich as id like at wot, only about 13 or so. because of this ive been taking it fairly easy on the car.

[Seerlah]

^That is not running "as rich as you'd like". That is running lean, if that is at WOT. At 17psi I am at 11.8:1 going WOT.

[redline380]

well i got everything smoothed out this morning. before i was seeing 0 degrees timing across the board. the car ran fine, it just had zero power, about the same as stock. contacted ctapp and justin from stellar autoworks and i guess there is a box that needs to be checked in the quicktune feature in some cases. i guess mine was one of those cases. checked the box, put in a special code and i got power! thing rips pretty good now. boost is coming on kinda slow i guess. didnt really see full boost till 5 grand a couple times. i got a few kinks to work out. still gotta fit my bumper. got my exhaust on though and its pretty damn loud. too loud for my liking. ill probably have to add a resonator but at least it runs. my lambda values are pretty decent as well. at about 90 throttle, requested lambda was .82 and i was at .8 or so. im pleased at this point but am probably gonna get a professional tune sometime

[redline380]

this is about the most i got on it today. lookin healthy?

[M-Hood]

No signs of timing correction during the pull? Need to add timing so you start to see 1-6 degs of timing pull in all 4 cylinders, most likely why your turbo is spooling up so late.

[redline380]

this pull was done off a 630cc basemap for a tt engine code awp. ill switch back to the awm 630cc basefile later and see if anything helps. ill mess around with it a little and hopefully around mid august get some 1000cc injectors in and run e85, at which point it will be professionally tuned

[Seerlah]

I was having boost issues before my low compression issue. Anyways, got my spool back after I did my TB job. Just throwing that one in there, but your TB should be brand spanking new (really the tension).

[redline380]

I was having boost issues before my low compression issue. Anyways, got my spool back after I did my TB job. Just throwing that one in there, but your TB should be brand spanking new (really the tension).

yeah all the tb components are brand new. timing seems to be pretty damn good as well. i mean its still fast and everything, but not spooling perfectly. it will take time but ill get the small things worked out. the car needs gas now so getting my bumper fitted is a must for tonight. then i will be driving around town to get some miles on it. theres is a euro show in the twin cities next week that im planning to take my car to (wont be in the show itself, just driving it there) but i talked to the tuner today and he should it should only take two hours on the dyno to tune for e85 with ev14 1000cc injectors.

id like to add that my exhaust sounds like absolute horeshit. if anyone actually read the whole thread and is considering going with autzone muffler 14661, id stay far away. its hardly any quieter than an open pipe and it rasps, plus drones really bad. i will be looking into a higher quality muffler and probably a resonator too, maybe a glasspack or something.

[redline380]

well the car is drivable now. got the front bumper on. it wasnt that bad of a fit but i did end up cutting out quit a bit of the bumper support. the bumper skin is officially being held on by the clips in the corners, two screws for the front license plate bracket, and six zip ties. its still a pretty tight fit as you can see. but it fits and the bumper apears fairly stock in my opinion. some time after i find the correct paint i will repaint the front bumper, fill in the headlight washer sprayers holes in the bumper, and possibly move the plate to the side and fill in the three holes left by it. and the new/old power steering cooler is off a one ton chevy. think ill leave it rusty for character. and dont say anything about my passanger side headlight. all the tabs are broken. anyone wanna sell me one cheap?

[M-Hood]

Did you cut all of the bottom part of the support to allow air flow up to the section of the FMIC that is behind the bumper skin? Without air flow up there that section of the core will heat soak really quick.

[flynnr]

That is a hell of a lot better than I assumed it would look!

BTW - I think I still have my a4 bumper if you wanted.

[redline380]

Did you cut all of the bottom part of the support to allow air flow up to the section of the FMIC that is behind the bumper skin? Without air flow up there that section of the core will heat soak really quick.

yes and no. the bottom of the support is cut all the way across but not all of it. i left about an inch of it, so i can easily fit my hand between the support and the intercooler all the way across the support. i will have to log some iat's to make sure its working well, but they were great for the runs i did without the bumper on. and i remember you mentioned having a sawzall helps with cutting the support. i used a plasma cutter and it worked pretty well. i love going overboard

That is a hell of a lot better than I assumed it would look!

BTW - I think I still have my a4 bumper if you wanted.

thanks. if i can figure out why my oil temps are reading so high, it should driven down to eurowerks if you want to check it out. i was gonna ask you for your bumper, but seems like mine worked out ok. unless of course you have an s4 bumper you want to give me...

[redline380]

drove around town tonight to get some miles on the rings and this damn oil temp is pissing me off. for the first fifteen minutes of driving the gauge fluctuates between 175 and 325 degrees. scary, i know. when it gets up really high, it will drop back down to 250 within twenty seconds. after that it will go between 200 and 275, sometimes going back up to 300, but always coming back down again. idling seems not to help but popping it into nuetral and coasting helps a little. after fifteen minutes of driving, the oil temp sits at 225 and only flucuates about 10 degrees. after shutting down and turning back on, i go through the whole process again. any thoughts on this?

[CCA4]

Are you still running the OEM oil cooler? I believe Mitch was having similar problems with oil temps (which in turn ended up boiling his coolant) because his manifold runs so hot. The oil got so hot that the stock oil cooler couldn't keep up.

[redline380]

yeah im on the stock oil cooler. but i just find it hard to believe my oil temp flucuates so drastically in a matter of seconds. if the sensor doesnt fix it i will try running an external cooler. there is neuspeed adapter for sale locally for 20 bucks. maybe ill give them a call today

[M-Hood]

yeah im on the stock oil cooler. but i just find it hard to believe my oil temp flucuates so drastically in a matter of seconds. if the sensor doesnt fix it i will try running an external cooler. there is neuspeed adapter for sale locally for 20 bucks. maybe ill give them a call today

Have you already put new oil in?

[Poopie]

right after my build my motor seems to run warmer than usual. I may have to add an external cooler as well. My coolant temps are spot on, but i'm a tad over 210 at idle for oil temp

[redline380]

Have you already put new oil in?

no. im running gm 5w 30 or whatever is in the massive tote in my garage along with lucas oil break in additive. ive only got 100 miles on this oil and plan on taking it to 500 before switching to mobil1.

right after my build my motor seems to run warmer than usual. I may have to add an external cooler as well. My coolant temps are spot on, but i'm a tad over 210 at idle for oil temp

my coolant temp is fine when moving, about 92 or 93 degrees, right at the halfway mark. if let sit and idle for a couple mins it goes a touch over halfway.

i plan on draining my oil and swapping out temp/level sensors in a short while, and reusing the oil for break in purposes. if this is a bad idea stop me now

i should add that ive got oil all over my trans bellhousing, externally. dont know where it came from, but im hoping it is blow by. im not running a catch can yet. no line on the crankcase breather but i did put a short line on the valve cover breather to direct it away from the bellhousing to see if thats the issue. im hoping the oil came from blow by and will stop once the rings seat all the way. should also add originally my oil level was at about half way on the hash marks, and i added a little so its just under completely full. the oil level does not seem to flucuate any

[Poopie]

yeah i would say those are form vapors or the valve cover gasket.


If you let it sit idle and the coolant temp goes past idle then you should replace your thermostat.

Not sure about reusing the oil, but instincts tell me to get some more non detergent dino oil instead of throwing used oil back in.