It's time

[redline380]

a day or two. i sent mine on a sunday morning, received my tune mid-day monday. it took about a week to get my cable shipped to me

I know a guy who had his ECU held at the border for 6 weeks because it had "Meth" written on it. Not joking lol.

well justin from stellar auroworks called this morning. i guess ctapp will be drop shipping everything for me. i guess this works. it would just be so much more convient to have my base file bench flashed. but one question... so he will just email my base file to me?

[thenj3]

why is it easier to have it bench flashed it doesnt get easier than what your about to do. instructions come in the kit just follow them. yes you will get your base file and needed codes via email

[redline380]

i guess this way will work then. but i need some help making sure i wired my fuel pump up correctly before i put it in. i know the on the stock harness the black is positive and the yellow is negative. well i my dumbass slipped the metal clips out of the plastic plug while splice the stock harness and the walbro harness. i just want reassurance that the yellow wire is in the correct spot in the plastic plug. this is what it looks like. i have the stock black wire hooked up to the walbro red wire and the stock yellow wire hooked up to the walbro black wire



plus the sleeve i got with the walbro is way too thick to fit in the stock basket. i ran down to the shop and they suggested putting o rings around the body of the pump to fit it snuggly in the basket. yay or nea on this idea?

[Seerlah]

As long as the pump is sitting firm in the basket, I don't see why the o-rings won't work. I think that was actually a smart idea. And with the pump, looks like you have it right. Before placing it into the tank, test it out with the relay. Plug the pump up to the stock harness, key in starting position, back cover off relay, and hold it closed. It should of course do that 3 second prime also.

[redline380]

Well I tried the wires both ways. I just hooked up the pump and turned the key to the on position. No fuel pump running either way. Should I try something else?

[Seerlah]

Does it even prime? As far as I can tell, you have it wired correctly. You need to hold the relay closed with the key in the starting position to make it run.

When you first turn the ignition to the starting position, the relay closes for like 2-3 seconds then opens back up. That is what makes the pump prime the system. During ignition, it opens and closes till the car turns over and it stays closed all the time. To duplicate that, just take the cover off the relay, stick it back in it's port, key in starting position, and hold the relay closed with a screw driver.

Before you do this, test the actual pump. Run a 12v lead to the pump positive terminal and the negative to ground. I used my car battery when I tested mine (had a similar issue of the pump not running). Just put a long lead wire on both battery terminals (just place the inside wire strands inside the clamp on the car battery terminals), and touched the other ends on the pump's terminals. That at least concluded my pump works. Then it was off to finding out what the problem was. This is when I found out the black wire is positive, and the crossed wires was my issue.

[redline380]

i never touched the relay. my buddy figured since the whole wiring harness was not plugged in, theres needs to be something else connected to make the fuel pump run. i touched the fuel pump leads straight to the battery for a second and it turned on, so i know thats good. i am mainly just concerned about whether or not i have the yellow and black wires in the stock clip coerrectly as pictures above. but the fuel pump kinda went by the wayside tonight as i rounded up a cherry picker and enough help. all i can say is it was great success!



it was a fucking bitch getting that thing in. took at least an hour for us three to do it. i sure hope we didnt damage the clutch or anything. but its in. i think ill get the bellhousing bolts in and call it a night. too bad i forgot which holes they go in, but im usually good at figuring that sort of thing out on my own

[redline380]

Fuck ME!!! i forgot to put the damn spacer plate in bewteen the motor and the bellhousing. someone please tell me its not a big deal cause i really dont wanna take it out again just for that

[Seerlah]

Not sure about that plate, but stick your fuel pressure gauge directly onto the rail. The way you have it now looks like it won't clear the hood. You also want the fittings on the adapter to point downwards. I am using the same rail with adapter. Don't be shy to He-Man that thing onto the rail (best to do this from the start, or learn later when your adapter leaks). This can not be done with your hands. Place the rail into a vice and use whatever tool you want to tighten down the adapter. I also used teflon tape on my threads, being really meticulous so no part has a chance of getting into the fuel and possibly clogging an injector). I am using the same rail with adapter. Expect that thing to leak a couple times before you finally get it right. Finally have mine leak free after having it leak like 5 times. Here is a pic that can show what I mean. Notice the orientation of the fuel lines and placement of the gauge. I had mine pointed up like the way you have it before, and the hood would make contact with the lines to the point that I had no idea how much of a minor pinch it put in the line causing a restriction. Because it had to.

[redline380]

Not sure about that plate, but stick your fuel pressure gauge directly onto the rail. The way you have it now looks like it won't clear the hood. You also want the fittings on the adapter to point downwards. I am using the same rail with adapter. Don't be shy to He-Man that thing onto the rail (best to do this from the start, or learn later when your adapter leaks). This can not be done with your hands. Place the rail into a vice and use whatever tool you want to tighten down the adapter. I also used teflon tape on my threads, being really meticulous so no part has a chance of getting into the fuel and possibly clogging an injector). I am using the same rail with adapter. Expect that thing to leak a couple times before you finally get it right. Finally have mine leak free after having it leak like 5 times. Here is a pic that can show what I mean. Notice the orientation of the fuel lines and placement of the gauge. I had mine pointed up like the way you have it before, and the hood would make contact with the lines to the point that I had no idea how much of a minor pinch it put in the line causing a restriction. Because it had to.

i convinced myslef i will be putting that plate in tomorrow. without it, there would be just too much open space around the trans, allowing debris to enter. it shouldnt be too bad to slip it in. lucky i caught it before i got all the bellhousing bolts in.

but about the presure gauge. i really got that thing tightened down. i also used permatex thread sealent, and it went on kinda hard. but i guess thats kinda how npt goes on. should be pretty leak free. and i checked the clearence against the hood just now. (had to tear myself away from the twins game). it smashes against the foam on the hood but thats it. pretty sure it will work fine

[Seerlah]

I tried to warn you. I used ARP sealant (forgot to mention this) along with teflon tape. The foam on my hood still has the indentations of where the lines would have a nice amount of pressure placed against it. It's not a good thing. You will realize why just about everybody had that rail leak on them. I am sure they all thought they had it correct and would be leak free the first couple times around. I know I did. You'll see. And since I know this will happen, a trick to make the o-rings slide back into the rail is to place some silicone spray on the o-rings. The dried fuel will not make them slide back in so easy. Place silicone spray on your finger tips, lubricate the o-rings, and they will slide back into the rail like butter. And the way you have your gauge I am 85% sure will not clear the hood. You will also need spacers on the rail if running the longer injectors (ie Siemen 630cc). Just use nuts you have laying around that will have the fuel rail bolts fit through. Can't recall off the top of my head the thickness to use, but you can figure it out. And when they drop, you can fish them out with a magnet. Can't do that with the aluminum spacers.

[redline380]

i know i will run into problems. and i am prepared to deal with it. i dont have a job so time is not an issue and i have alternate transportation. but thanks for the input. now when i have that problem i will know exactly what to do.

as far as the plate goes i split the motor again but not all the way. i left the dowels in and just knotched out the holes in the plate where the dowels go so i could just slip it in. only took a few minutes. today i should get just about everything installed under the hood. still gotta wait for maestro to show up until i can start it up. im guessing it wont show up till the end of next week since i didnt even pay for shipping yet

[redline380]

well i got some stuff done today. just kinda bolted some things back on like coolant hoses, turbo, and some sensors. still have a bunch of sensors that i have no idea where they go. im sure ill figure it out some day. but im not too concerned with time as im sure maestro wont get here for some time. i paid for the product, but not for shipping yet. anyways this is how it stands as of right now. look good?

[Seerlah]

Looks good . One thing I would have done is a 90* off the oil drain adapter instead of the 45*. Should not be an issue, though. Oh, and would have kept the A/C.

[redline380]

Looks good . One thing I would have done is a 90* off the oil drain adapter instead of the 45*. Should not be an issue, though. Oh, and would have kept the A/C.

the oil line came that way. it was part of everything i bought used. worked for the guy before me. and on the a/c, i know its kind of a stupid move, but there will be like one time in the next year i wished i would have kept it in. but there will be a lot of other times im glad i ditched it. but i can always put it back in. wont be selling it. or anythings else for that matter. god thing my dad owns a mini-stoage

[thenj3]

a/c is over-rated. things look good. that gonna be a bright engine bay

[BlazinB5]

check into the Kinetic FMIC. i think i remember hearing that it fits pretty well with minimal trim. keeping bumper grills ftw. i HATE it when people have intercooler piping hanging out where the bumper grills should be - but that's just me.

back in the MK4 GTI days, Kinetic was the king shit that people would use to go VR6-T.

[M-Hood]

Looks good . One thing I would have done is a 90* off the oil drain adapter instead of the 45*. Should not be an issue, though. Oh, and would have kept the A/C.

Better his way since it keeps the line away from the engine and allows for better flow since there is more straight from the turbo.

check into the Kinetic FMIC. i think i remember hearing that it fits pretty well with minimal trim. keeping bumper grills ftw. i HATE it when people have intercooler piping hanging out where the bumper grills should be - but that's just me.

back in the MK4 GTI days, Kinetic was the king shit that people would use to go VR6-T.

Plenty of trimming needed to fit that 2.75" FMIC behind the stock A4 bumper.

[redline380]

check into the Kinetic FMIC. i think i remember hearing that it fits pretty well with minimal trim. keeping bumper grills ftw. i HATE it when people have intercooler piping hanging out where the bumper grills should be - but that's just me.

back in the MK4 GTI days, Kinetic was the king shit that people would use to go VR6-T.

im sure kinetic makes a great intercooler, but i already picked up a treadstone tr11. its 3 inch think and big enough so if i decide to upgrade i could use that intercooler with a larger turbo. its gonna be a bithc to fit behind the bumper, but removing the a/c will help a bit with that

[M-Hood]

im sure kinetic makes a great intercooler, but i already picked up a treadstone tr11. its 3 inch think and big enough so if i decide to upgrade i could use that intercooler with a larger turbo. its gonna be a bithc to fit behind the bumper, but removing the a/c will help a bit with that

Every A4 that I have seen with a 3" FMIC behind a stock bumper was pretty much gutted and barely hanging on for dear life. lol

Taking out the AC helps a little but there is a hump along the bottom of the radiator that only allows you take up some of that gained by removing the AC core. The other fitment issue will be the fact that the TR11 core is 21" long and a over all length of 28.5" which is a bit wide for the stock bumper since the space behind it gets small really quick as you go away from the center of the car. This is why Mitch as been working with Treadstone to make a FMIC with a 2.5" core that is 18-20" wide to fit behind the stock bumper.

It is also why 034 used a 18" core when they made their 3" FMIC for the B5 A4 and even that one is a very tight fit.

[redline380]

Every A4 that I have seen with a 3" FMIC behind a stock bumper was pretty much gutted and barely hanging on for dear life. lol

Taking out the AC helps a little but there is a hump along the bottom of the radiator that only allows you take up some of that gained by removing the AC core. The other fitment issue will be the fact that the TR11 core is 21" long and a over all length of 28.5" which is a bit wide for the stock bumper since the space behind it gets small really quick as you go away from the center of the car. This is why Mitch as been working with Treadstone to make a FMIC with a 2.5" core that is 18-20" wide to fit behind the stock bumper.

It is also why 034 used a 18" core when they made their 3" FMIC for the B5 A4 and even that one is a very tight fit.

i know its a bit oversized, but i couldnt find a quality intercooler with good dimensions in my price range. it will probably take me a couple days to install it to my liking, but i want to eventually go s4 bumper anyways. just have to find a decent deal on one. i really dont want to hack my bumper away completely, but if i have to i will. had i known about the treadstone project, i would have bought an ebay intercooler for now and got in on the new treadstone one. hope i can make the tr11 work though and still look good.

[kandst]

cool build like the tractor for a engine puller

[ray4624]

that green is fresh as hell.
nice build

[redline380]

thanks for the compliments guys. got some stuff done today. its really starting to look like a car again. and good news. after i put oil in the engine, i cranked it over for the first time just for a second to ensure the starter engaged the flywheel. when i did this, my fuel pump kicked on for a second so im guessing i got the polarity correct. anyone know if it will turn on with the polarity incorrect?

[donkeysaudi]

did you use a green high temp spray paint for all that???

[Seerlah]

If that is a open funnel filter, they are not supposed to be used on turbochargers unless there is a peice of section (ie maybe 3" of open flow) before the compressor housing.

[redline380]

did you use a green high temp spray paint for all that???

its is automotive paint, as in body paint i got from the paint shop. came in a quart but i can have them put the excess into a spray bomb

If that is a open funnel filter, they are not supposed to be used on turbochargers unless there is a peice of section (ie maybe 3" of open flow) before the compressor housing.

what do you mean by open funnel filter? i was under the impression the previous owner had it setup just like me, right on the end of the compressor housing

[Seerlah]

We can not use filters that have an open element if it is placed directly on the compressor housing. Now sure of "can not", but more of "aren't supposed to" and is advised against. Same thing when wanting to just slap a filter onto a MAF sensor.

Here is an example. Notice the open funnel filter design and the warning not to be used for turbocharged vehicles (really, meaning right on the compressor housing).

http://vibrantperformance.com/catalo...1022_1038_1079

Then notice the difference with closed top, which can be used (this is the filter I use). This design isn't "flat" on top, but is still closed. But most are flat (I like Vibrant's design) like AEM units that 034 sells. Also, mushroom filters can be used. Just no open funnel filter unless there is some straight section or open section before the turbo compressor wheel or element on a MAF sensor.

http://vibrantperformance.com/catalo...1038_1078_1236

[M-Hood]

It can be used, what you don't want to do is mount a inverted cone filter right onto the MAF housing since it can cause a dead zone in the center right were the MAF sensor sits.

[chris164935]

When I reversed the polarity on my 044 pump, all it did was reverse the motor's rotation. Not sure if the Walbro pumps are similar but easiest way to find out is to pull off a fuel line and turn the ignition to "ON" to prime the pump again and see if fuel comes out of the line (assuming there is fuel in the tank, of course).

[redline380]

When I reversed the polarity on my 044 pump, all it did was reverse the motor's rotation. Not sure if the Walbro pumps are similar but easiest way to find out is to pull off a fuel line and turn the ignition to "ON" to prime the pump again and see if fuel comes out of the line (assuming there is fuel in the tank, of course).

well the pump turned on only for the time the starter was engaged. it didnt prime. i kinda thought it was suppose to. i didnt have the sender plugged in. maybe thats an issue?

on the other hand, id like some input on which holes to put my 02 sensors in. the first hole was added by the PO, the other two are atp original. i want to put the ecu 02 sensor in the first hole, and the afr guage 02 sensor in the hole just after that, and plug the last one. think there will be too much turbulence in the very first hole? the last one doesnt offer much space, but i could probably squeeze one in there if need be.

[Seerlah]

Stock primary o2 sensor in the first hole.
Secondary o2 sensor in the second hole (just for placement)
Wideband sensor in the 3rd bung downstream with a heat sink...Clicky Click

I tested the readings with my WB sensor both with and without the Innovate heat sink. Readings are the same. And you want it more down stream to not burn the sensor out over time. The heat sink also helps with this. The heat sink has more to do with the transient heat from the downpipe/bung to the sensor, but is designed to also not be in the direct path of the exhaust flow. Does not deter from reading accuracy.

[redline380]

secondary 02 sensor will not be used. no need for it as there will be no cat. so...
first hole- primary 02 sensor
second hole- plugged
third hole- afr 02 sensor ?????

[Seerlah]

You will throw a code for it if it is not electronically plugged in. I have 3 bungs, and my secondary o2 sensor is coded out. But unless it is still plugged in, I will throw a CEL for it (from what I am told). I have mine just as I just mentioned to you.

[redline380]

i was under the impression maestro could completely disable the secondary 02 sensor?

[Seerlah]

The function is turned off, but you still need to keep it electronically plugged in. Same goes for any emission component. You can turn it off, disable it, remove it, etc, but you still need to either keep the unit plugged in or resistored. For example, I have my n80, n112, n249, and SAI coded out. I don't need a resistor for the SAI, but it is needed on the n112 and n249 (afaik). And I still have my n80 plugged in to the harness, tucked away. Oh yeah, also have a resistor on my n75 harness plug. I could have chosen to have the solenoids electronically plugged in, or placed on resistors. I chose the latter.

[redline380]

i had no idea you still needed to resistor those things out. i was under the assumption that once those were coded out by maestro, the ecu no longer checked readiness of them

[Seerlah]

Readiness it more of forced, than being skipped by the ECU checking. For example, you can pass readiness but the state computers used for inspection in places like NJ will still detect that they did not pass readiness and you will fail. But they have more advanced computers for testing. It's in the coding. And this is from what I understand. I would talk to a tuner like Arnold at Pag Parts to confirm, or maybe someone will chime in to confirm or debunk my last couple of posts. But this is what I learned is the way to do it.

[redline380]

Makes sense I guess. I want to avoid a cel cause I hate staring at it. But pass in emissions won't be an issue. Us Minnesotans have Jesse Ventura to thank for getting rid of them

[redline380]

what do you guys think about my intercooler placement and piping routing? the first picture is with the hood latched completely, so i know thats good.