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  1. #1
    Established Member Two Rings
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    Rdrcr's A3 Build Thread.

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    For fun, I decided to post a build thread for my A3. In reality, I’m not building anything, so this thread will simply illustrate the path I take and modifications and improvements I make to my A3.

    The car…
    2009 Audi A3 is Black/Black equipped with the 2.0T and DSG transmission with the Premium, Titanium, and S-line packages.

    Why did I buy an A3? Well, I needed to downsize from two cars to one. I wanted one car that could replace my daily driver and my weekend/track toy. I found the Audi A3’s size, shape, four-doors, and sporty nature to fit my needs perfectly.

    I’m confident that this A3 is going to be an excellent car because it is luxurious, well built, and fun to drive. The A3’s character reminds me of my previous VW’s, a 2002 GTI 337 and a 2008 R32, both of which I thoroughly enjoyed.

    The A3 flaunts a very rich, high-quality interior constructed of high-end materials. The dashboard, interior trim, and the various instruments are all well laid-out and arranged smartly. I immediately noticed the high quality feel of the switch-gear, steering wheel, and the high-grade leather used on the very comfortable seats. Though, I must say, that the seats are a little too ‘flat’ for my tastes, they could offer more support for spirited driving. But, hey, enough about the seats, even the stock Audi sound system is surprisingly impressive for an OEM vehicle.







    Overall, Audi’s execution and attention to detail regarding the A3, is truly remarkable.

    I chose to buy an A3 with the 2.0T because the engine provides more than enough power to make the A3 fun to drive and it is easily modified to produce more power. I was happy in the past with VW’s 1.8T but, the 2.0T with its quick turbo spool-up and the amount of torque available in the low-rpms make it seem as if the car has a V6 under the hood. For a four cylinder, considering the power, and the fuel economy, the 2.0T is definitely impressive, even in stock form.

    I’m a manual transmission type of guy. I normally own one automatic car and one manual transmission car at any given time. However, since I am downsizing to one vehicle, I had to make a compromise and, based on my previous experience with the R32, I knew the DSG is the perfect compromise for my situation. I’ll admit, I’m not a huge fan of the DSG in auto mode. I find that the transmission in auto mode shifts way too often at low speeds. It is very annoying and, at times, even frustrating to drive in auto mode. I’m pretty sure the super conservative and rapid automatic shift programming is done to conserve fuel but, ironically, I can achieve the same or, better fuel mileage in manual mode. Go figure! Like my R32, I plan to do most of my driving in manual mode.

    My A3, as equipped, already looks and drives great. However, I plan to subtlety modify the A3 to suite my personal tastes.

    So what needs to be improved?

    For performance, my plan is to boost the power output of the 2.0T with an ECU Tune, Intake, Water/Methanol Injection, and Exhaust. To go along with the performance enhancements, I want to add a boost gauge and perhaps a wide-band gauge to monitor the engine vitals. In addition, the DSG will receive an HPA performance stage 2 Tune which will be complimented by a set of S2T Performance paddle shifters (which was the awesome combination I had in my R32).

    For appearance, I personally like the way my A3 looks (with the exception of the ride height) so I don’t plan to modify the exterior extensively. There’s a good chance I’ll swap out the current Headlamps and Tail lamps to the HID/LED models that I’ve seen. For wheels, at least for the moment, I’ll stick with the OEM’s. I will, however, be adding window tint immediately!

    I’ll need to spend some more time behind the wheel of my A3 before I make any decisions regarding the suspension setup. However, I will be adding a set of height-adjustable coilovers, as soon as possible… I don’t like driving around in what appears to be a 4x4 A3. LOL!

    What did I forget???

    If you are interested in my build, please stay tuned…

    Mike

  2. #2
    Established Member Two Rings
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    May 12 2012
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    First things First. Window Tint!

    As a car enthusiast living in California can be frustrating (you'll probably read this often in this thread). We have some ridiculous laws that make modifying a car difficult. We even have laws that even discourage automotive window tint! Luckily, the laws only prohibit the use of window tint on the windshield, and on the front driver and passenger windows. We can legally tint the rear windows and rear glass on any vehicle.

    My understanding behind this law is to protect our law enforcement officers when they approach a vehicle. They want to be able to see inside the vehicle to confirm if a suspect is armed or not.
    The problem I have with this law is that there are benefits to have window tint on most, if not all your windows. The tint actually protects the interior from the harmful rays of the sun if the car spends quite a bit of time outside in direct sunlight (which my car does when it is not at home in the garage). Just look at any 5 year old or, older vehicle that spends time outside in direct sunlight without window tint and compare it to another car of the same age and model year with window tint under the same conditions and examine the interior. The car without window tint will show a lot more fading, cracking, and overall interior wear and tear. Which is why this law sucks. I want my window tint on all windows AND, I don’t want to have to worry about being fined and given a ‘fix-it’ ticket!
    Oh well, I can’t have everything in life… I’ll take my chances.
    Did I also mention that window tint keeps the car cooler inside and it looks great!

    I got all my windows tinted with the exception of the front windshield. The front door windows were tinted at 30% and the rear glass was tinted at 15%. Nothing too crazy. Here are a couple pics;





    Mike

  3. #3
    Established Member Two Rings
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    Today I decided to 'scope' the intake manifold of my A3 to check for carbon build-up.

    I admit, I'm a little spooked. A close friend of mine has an '09 GTI 2.0T with 60K miles that had a massive build-up of carbon in the intake manifold, on the valves, and in the cylinder head. The VW dealership replaced quite a few different parts before they decided to 'scope' the intake and check for build-up. When they did, they found what would be equivalant to a softball size amount of carbon in his engine. Since the carbon build-up has been removed, his car is running great, like it did when it was new!

    I personally don't want to start modifying the 2.0T until I can be reasonably certain that I'm not going to run into trouble down-the-road. I know the previous owner completed all the scheduled maintainance for my A3. However, what I don't know is how the car was driven and if he/she used premium brand fuels and/or, performed any additional maintainance/oil changes to help prevent the dreadful carbon build-up.

    Anyway, here is the process and what I found in my engine:

    First, I located the IAT sensor.


    Then, using a T-30 torx driver I removed the IAT sensor


    Removing the IAT sensor leaves an access hole in the intake manifold so I can insert the camera


    Here is a picture illustrating some carbon build-up in the intake manifold and on the valves.


    Another picture illustrating carbon build-up in the intake manifold and on the valves.


    Well, my 2.0T does have 'some' carbon build-up in the intake manifold and cylinder heads but, it isn't as severe as other cars I've seen. And since the carbon build-up in my engine hasn't really hurt the gas mileage or set off any CEL's I think it may be ready for some modifications. However, I wish there were easier ways to clean and prevent the mess...

    Mike

  4. #4
    Veteran Member Four Rings A3 Guy's Avatar
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    Apr 01 2011
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    Charleston SC

    Looks great man!!! I wish I had gotten black interior :(
    ~Brennan
    2014 allroad Premium Plus
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  5. #5
    Active Member One Ring
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    May 30 2011
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    toronto

    I drove my car at around 3000rpm for almost 4 hours each way. I swear the cars is like night and day now. I live in cold winters, so I don't get to go WOT for 5 months out of the year. I really think an Italian Tuneup does wonders for the intake valves, but a nice intake cleaning is always a good thing...

  6. #6
    Established Member Two Rings
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    Thanks guys!!!

    Yeah, after all the research and reading I've done regarding the 2.0T and carbon build-up, I'm definitely starting to drive the car more aggressively. Plus, it's fun!

    Mike

  7. #7
    Established Member Two Rings
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    High on my priority list, of ‘things-to-do’ to my A3, was to lower the suspension.
    I had to lower my A3.
    These cars just look better lowered.

    I purchased a set of ST Speedtech Coilovers to accomplish this task.

    So, if my goal was simply to lower the suspension my Audi for appearance and I didn’t really care about the suspension performance, why didn’t I simply purchase a set of lowering springs?

    In my experience it is hard to find aftermarket lowering springs that work well with the OEM dampers. Usually an example of this combination results in a choppy and uncomfortable ride because the spring rates and the damper rates don’t match. Conversely, my experience with aftermarket Coilover suspension setups has been much better, which is why I decided to go in that direction.
    Do it once, do it right…or, something like that?

    I could have purchased a set of aftermarket springs AND a set of aftermarket shocks to compliment the improved spring rates (however, there is still a possibility that the spring/damper rates won’t match, resulting in a horrible ride, and I’d have to swap everything back out and do it all again…Not fun!) but, ironically, when you add up the total investment of a spring/shock combination, the price for a set of Coilovers was surprisingly competitive. Plus, with Coilovers, not only do they offer matched damper and spring rates, they also sport the ability to manually adjust the ride height to suit my own personal tastes. Bonus!

    There are obviously a ton of aftermarket Coilover suspension choices available for the Audi A3. However, to narrow the field, my decision was based on price (I wanted to spend under $1K) and manufacture reputation.

    The ST Speedtech Coilovers fit my needs, and wallet, perfectly. The ST Coilovers are made by KW and ST is owned by KW automotive. KW’s reputation as a Coilover suspension manufacture is solid.

    The ST Coilovers are basically the same as the KW V1 Coilovers except, they are constructed of high grade steel (not stainless steel) that is heavily galvanized for rust prevention, and they have a 5 year warranty (instead of a limited lifetime warranty), however, the ST’s cost much less, yet offer the same features and suspension performance. Originally, I wanted to purchase the KW V1’s so I was extremely pleased to stumble upon the ST’s for the A3.

    The installation of the ST Coilovers wasn’t too complicated. I did a little research online and found an article by one of the more popular Euro magazines that did a project A3 where they did a step-by-step Coilover installation. I’m happy I found the article. It proved to be of significant help for my novice mechanical knowledge and skills. In addition, had I not read the article I wouldn’t have had a 27mm socket or a 14mm 12-point triple square bolt when I needed it!

    Anyway, the rear OEM shock absorbers and springs were easily removed and the ST parts were installed in like fashion with the help of some power tools. The fronts, well, they took a little more work. We ended up removing the entire front strut assemblies and placed them on a bench for their disassembly and reassembly with the new ST Coilover components. Overall, it took about 4 hours of work to get the job done and I had a great time doing it!

    I’m very happy with the appearance and ride of my A3 with the new ST Coilovers installed. The overall appearance and ride height is completely adjustable and I’m still fiddling with it. Even though the ride height measurements are the same front to rear, I may take the front down another half inch for just the right ‘look’.

    The ride quality is better than I expected it to be. I would describe the ride quality as firm but, with a ‘sporty’ OEM quality. I can feel that the springs and dampers are well matched together and to the vehicle design and weight. I wouldn’t claim or characterize the ST Coilovers as a luxury setup but, seriously, this setup could be used for OEM. The ride is firm, yet compliant and it only feels firm when it needs to be.

    As expected, my A3 equipped with the ST Coilovers, has better steering response on initial turn-in, it corners flatter throughout every turn, at any speed, and I have a better sense of speed and a greater confidence while driving at high speeds. I’m impressed. The ST Coilovers are definitely worth the purchase price. I think they are a true bargain. I recommend them!







    Mike

  8. #8
    Senior Member Three Rings
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    May 16 2010
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    South Pasadena, CA

    Your posts are very detailed and thorough. Looking forward to hearing about your build log. Just wondering if you were interested in also making a duplicate build thread over on fourtitude. There's a lot more activity over there and knowledgeable people. I'm sure there are lots of knowledgeable people that would might be able to steer you in the right direction or take a look at your build. The only really active posters on audizine are the sponsors and advertisters. Sometimes I don't know if I'm if I'm on cragislist or audizine.

    What kind of software were you planning to run on your car when you reflash the ECU?

  9. #9
    Established Member Two Rings
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    ^^^^
    Thanks.

    Actually I do have the a similar thread running on Fourtitude but, it is under a different user name 'Turn8'.
    http://forums.fourtitude.com/showthr...3-Build-Thread.

    You're right, I've noticed that there isn't much member traffic here but, a huge amount of advertisising and sponsor posts. There are a lot more posts on my thread on Fourtitude.

    Right now, I'm considering Neuspeed (they are the closest...and my dealer likes them), Giac, and HPA for my ECU tune.

    Mike

  10. #10
    Established Member Two Rings
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    Did I mention, I like gauges…
    Especially, accurate ones that tell you cool things while you drive.
    So, I decided it was time to add a Boost Gauge to my A3 before any more serious modifications are added.

    Obviously, adding a boost gauge to the A3 isn’t too trivial or, difficult. But, I did have to decide on which gauge to purchase and how I wanted to mount it.

    I’ve owned a lot of boost gauges over the years and have installed them on a variety of vehicles. Some gauges have been more accurate than others and the prices have been all over the place, some cheap and some really expensive. I’ve found that the mechanical boost gauges are the most accurate and by far, the least inexpensive when compared to electrical gauges. My experience with VDO’s mechanical boost gauges has been excellent and that is why I decided to go with their product for my A3.

    In addition, I chose to purchase the Newsouth Column Pod to mount my VDO gauge because it isn’t as obnoxious as an A-Pillar mount and has a somewhat OEM appearance. I could have chosen to mount the boost gauge in one of the classy A/C vent mounts but, I feared that it would interfere with the A/C vent deflection causing the air to not flow in the direction that I wish. I want to be comfortable when I’m driving (this is an Audi for God’s sake).
    There were a couple other options that mount in the lower dash/center console area but, I felt that the placement is too low to make the gauges readable while driving.

    The installation for both the gauge and the Column Pod was simple and straightforward. The VDO gauge easily slides into the Column Pod and the Pod sits on top of the OEM steering column trim. The Column Pod doesn’t come with anything to attach it to the steering column trim but, the directions do call for the use of double-sided tape. I ended up using Velcro because that is what I had on hand and I knew there was a chance that I many need to remove it temporarily and reinstall it in the future for some reason or, another. In a case like this, Velcro will work much better than double-sided tape. I think the Newsouth Column Pod would be better if it was made to ‘replace’ the upper steering column trim shroud for a more secure and OEM style installation. But, hey, that’s just my opinion.

    I continued the installation by removing the lower dash panel. This was done by removing three screws (one of which is hidden behind the fuse panel on the side of the dash) which allows you to pull the panel straight towards the driver seat and it pops off. This gave me access to the wiring and the firewall. I tapped two wires on the headlamp switch so my gauge will light-up when the headlamps are on. I found the rubber plug on the firewall that allows access to the engine compartment. I poked a hole in the plug and fed my boost/vacuum hard-line through the hole. I got lucky. I was able to grab my hard-line and run it through the proper areas WITHOUT removing the battery. Perfect!

    To complete the installation I installed the APR Modular Boost Tap which made the connection of the boost line to the intake manifold the easiest part of the entire process. The APR boost tap or, a like product, is definitely worth it.

    Everything is working great and I’m really happy with the results.
    Here are a few pictures;







    Mike

  11. #11
    Established Member Two Rings
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    As with any performance build, I think it is very important to record some baseline numbers so that the stock numbers can be compared with the results from future modifications.

    I am lucky. In my local area we have quite a few dyno tuners that offer their dyno services to the public. To record my baseline numbers I chose to visit Tom at EFI West in Camarillo California because of their convenient business hours, experience, and enthusiasm. Tom is a great guy and he has more than 20 years experience with tuning EFI cars, a great reputation, and works very closely with OEM manufactures for engineering, fabrication, and tuning services. They know their stuff.

    Anyway, here are the results we recorded on their DynoJet 220xLC;







    All of my future modifications will be recorded on this exact dyno and because I will not be able to create the same exact weather conditions for each dyno session we will be using the SAE correction factors so that all the recorded results can actually be compared with the previous results.

    In the case of this dyno visit, my A3 actually produced better numbers uncorrected but, since we will be using a correction factor to alleviate any inconsistencies for future dyno pulls, I posted the SAE results and not the ‘better’ WHP/WTQ results.

    The 2.0 TFSI is rated and advertised as making 200 HP and 207 TQ to the crank. Based on my results and the results from others, it would appear that these engines do in fact make more power than their ‘advertised’ OEM numbers.

    Mike

  12. #12
    Veteran Member Four Rings krew53's Avatar
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    Nice and informative build thread you have going! I am actually local to you.. You should come out to one of the Malibu Cruises that we do few times a year.

  13. #13
    Veteran Member Four Rings Pat_McGroin's Avatar
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    Yeah, it would be nice to have another A3 other than myself :P
    Rick
    B5 S4 StageIII
    Sold:Brilliant Black 2008 S4 Avant Tip.
    Gone but never gottin - Ibis 2010 A3 2.0T

  14. #14
    Established Member Two Rings
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    ^^^^
    More A3's the better! :)

    Quote Originally Posted by krew53 View Post
    Nice and informative build thread you have going! I am actually local to you.. You should come out to one of the Malibu Cruises that we do few times a year.
    Thanks!
    Let me know when the next run is...I'd like to go.

    Mike

  15. #15
    Established Member Two Rings
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    Perhaps, I was too bored and had way too much time on my hands…

    I don’t know about you guys but, I can’t stand the rear headrests in my A3 because they obstruct a significant portion of my rear view. So, like my previous VW Golfs, I immediately removed the three rear-view-robbing headrests and stored them in my garage. Now, you would think that this story is over. It should be, but my creative mind got the best of me, once again…

    A few days ago I was in the garage vigorously waxing my A3 because a bird took a HUGE crap on the hood AND passenger front fender…Dude, HUGE crap, GARGANTUAN crap…I’m thinking the turd must have come from a pterodactyl that had been feasting on several large elephants… Anyway, while my brain was on auto-pilot, I happened to look over at the rear seat headrests sitting on the shelf and for some reason, the sight of them triggered some crazy thoughts and ideas. As I continued to wax the A3 I began thinking about what I could do with them.

    Like the rear headrests, I also don’t like my front A3 headrests either but, for different reasons. I feel they are way too large and obnoxious, especially for me, since I’m so short. The VW GTI, for some reason or another, got better front headrests. They are smaller, better designed, and more comfortable. Why did the A3 get such crappy front headrests?

    I decided to pull the left and right rear headrests off the shelf to see if I could install them on the front seats. Surprisingly they fit! The install was super easy. I just had to make sure the front seats where in a low and reclined position so the front headrests would clear the roof headlining panel when they were removed. The results? Well, I think they look pretty darn cool! It really gives the A3 front seats a ‘sporty’ appearance.







    There are some drawbacks, however. Since the rear headrests aren’t designed to fit on the front seats they are not height adjustable because there is only one locked position. You either like the height, or you don’t. In addition, there is a potential issue regarding comfort because the rear headrests protrude a bit more forward when compared to the original front headrests which can be a problem if your favorite seating position isn’t somewhat reclined. Furthermore, in an accident, I’m not sure how ‘safe’ it is having the rear headrests installed on the front seats since they are smaller and have only one lock position. It’s anyone’s guess.

    Personally, I find the modification really comfortable for daily driving because the new headrests are smaller, thinner, and are positioned nicely to support my head. Plus, they actually increase the rear and right hand side visibility while driving. However, I know when I throw on a helmet and start hot-lapping my A3 on the race track, I will have a problem with the modified headrest position because my helmet will, without a doubt, hit the new headrest and push my head forward making things rather uncomfortable. Though, to correct this issue, I think I’ll be able to put the headrest in the lowest ‘non-lock’ position and it will give me enough clearance for a comfortable seating position and still provide some protection in a rear end collision. I’m thinking as long as my A3 isn’t involved in a violent roll-over, I’ll be okay.

    I can’t say I recommend this modification, or if it even makes sense but, I like the fact that it is ‘different’, it looks pretty cool, and it is surprisingly comfortable. I think I’m going to keep it like this for a while. Or, until I install some proper racing seats.

    Up next for review;
    HPA ECU Stage 1 tune, HPA DSG Stage 2 upgrade, S2T Performance Paddle Shifters, Carbonio Intake, and Water/Meth injection...

    Mike

  16. #16
    Established Member Two Rings
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    HPA Stage 1 ECU Tune.

    My A3 will never be the same.

    Deciding on which Stage 1 ECU Tune for my 2.0T A3 was a really difficult decision. It wasn’t because I was afraid that I was going to make a wrong choice and my car would get messed up, wouldn’t run right, or wouldn’t make good power. It was difficult because of the vast amount of GOOD choices. There are just too many. It made my head spin. I mean look: we have APR, GIAC, REVO, HPA, United Motorsport, Unitronic, Eurodyne, and Neuspeed, (did I miss any? Seriously, I could have!?!).

    Honestly, choosing a Stage 1 ECU Tune for the 2.0T is kinda like trying to choose a beer at the Yard House. They have hundreds of beers on tap. They have tons of individual beers in bottles. There are so many recognizable domestic and imported names and brands. Then there are the tempting beers from exotic places and distilleries that you don’t recognize. The variety is absolutely endless. You can choose something you’ve had a hundred times, or you can be adventurous and choose something new. There are tons of individual lite, dark, heavy, and light choices. It’s almost too much. Sometimes you just want to give up and make the bartender, or server decide for you. It’s crazy I tell you!

    Just like the beers on tap at the Yard House, all the Stage 1 2.0T ECU Tunes are offered by recognizable names and brands. They have all been in business for years. They all have earned their excellent reputations. Many of us have previously purchased their products. They all offer a similar product and at a similar price. Each different Tune may offer their own special taste and personal touches but, ultimately, they all accomplish the same goal. So, how do you choose which to go with?
    See, that’s why I told you. It’s tough to choose a Stage 1 ECU Tune.

    I started my search by focusing on what each manufacture had to offer regarding their Tuning software. Were there any options? What was included? What was the price? Have there been any durability and the reliability concerns with the software? Are there any customer reviews? If so, are they favorable? And of course, how much additional power can I expect to gain?
    Most of the manufactures (APR, GIAC, REVO, UM, Eurodyne, and Unitronic) offer their tuning software in stages; Stage 1, Stage 2, and Stage 2+ and each stage represents changes to their performance Tuning software when an intake, intercooler, and exhaust component is added. Neuspeed and HPA have only one performance ECU Tune for the stock K03 turbo, however, according to them, both of their Tunes can automatically adjust for intake, exhaust, and even intercooler modifications so there is no need for additional stages unless, of course, a larger turbo is added to the engine.

    Many of the companies like APR, GIAC, and Revo offer multi-program performance software where the user can switch between a 91/93 octane tune, 100 octane tune, stock, and even valet modes which I understand can be extremely desirable, even at an extra cost. UM, Neuspeed, and HPA do not offer switchable programs but, they turn the tables on the competition by claiming that their ECU Tunes can automatically adjust for different octane fuels rendering the 91, 93, and 100 octane switchable programs useless.

    However, these claims have stirred quite a bit of controversy. The skeptical side of this debate says that since the 2.0T doesn’t have an octane sensor, there is no way the ECU can adjust for different grades of octane. They further go on to explain that the only way for this claim to be true, would be if the Tune is adjusting for the changes in octane based on knock, or detonation. Not good. Yet, conversely, the Companies that offer this tuning ‘feature’ claim that there are a number of layered ignition maps that are correlated on other basis then just knock, and if the engine is operating within the given parameters which, they have fully recalibrated, the ECU will not see anything greater than a 6 degrees ignition retard when using different grades of octane thus producing the performance gains for higher octane fuels.
    The debate continues as the skeptical folks claim that there is no way that ONE tune can be fully optimized to deliver perfect results for different octane fuels. They are saying that separate tunes optimized for a specific octane fuels will produce better drivability and a larger increase in power. Personally, I have no idea. Their argument however, makes sense, I must admit. I’ll remain on the fence.

    Begin Rant…

    During my Stage 1 ECU Tune search there was one thing that really aggravated me. When I’m shopping for a performance part, tune, or otherwise I want to see raw, proven gains for that specific product. But, unfortunately, ALL the Tuning companies advertise their performance improvements measured at the crank, not at the wheel. Crank numbers can often times be vague, generic, and at times, inaccurate.

    When I’m spending my hard earned money, I want to see performance gains advertised and measured at the wheel. Real gains. Real results. Why not post the real thing?
    The reason; CRANK numbers produce HIGHER numbers that look better to the consumer when compared with real wheel numbers. They want to be able to grab your attention and sell you on the BIG number. But, can we blame them? All the OEM automotive manufactures use this same marketing logic too. How I hate it!

    My main issue with crank numbers is that they can be manipulated so much easier than wheel horsepower and wheel torque figures in my experience.
    Case in point: Two major automotive manufactures, Ford and Mazda have produced cars advertising that their crank numbers are one thing but, when the consumers began to independently test their vehicles they found that the actual numbers were far lower than the manufactures claims. In the end, when the dust settled, the manufactures were forced to make concessions to the customers whom purchased those vehicles for their embarrassing marketing errors.

    My favorite advertising offense is the fake crank dyno graph! Really, you are going to advertise a crank dyno graph for your product when there is a really good chance that the consumer will unknowingly believe the crank numbers represent real wheel horsepower and torque numbers? Please.

    APR proudly lists crank horsepower and torque numbers for advertising purposes on their website, like the other Tuners, but they take it a step further with some really confusing details. For example, they show the factory rated 2.0T making 200 HP and 207 TQ on 91 octane while listing their recorded numbers for the stock 2.0T as making 216 HP and 227 TQ on 93 octane.

    Does this mean that I’m going to pick up 16 peak HP and 20 peak TQ without doing anything else but adding 93 Octane to my car? If so, that’s awesome! I’m going to put some 93 octane fuel in my car ASAP! But, the real answer is NO! You’re not going to pick up an additional 16HP/20TQ by putting in 93 octane fuel.

    What they aren’t telling you is that the 2.0T has proven time and time again to produce more power than what is claimed and advertised by the manufacture regardless of which octane fuel is used. My 2.0T is no different.

    My completely stock A3 running 91 octane made 190 WHP and 198 WTQ on a DynoJet 220. So what does this mean? How can I compare my WHP/WTQ numbers with APR’s numbers, stock, or otherwise? Well, that’s what is difficult when companies fail to provide actual wheel horsepower and wheel torque results. In order to compare my results with theirs, I need to figure out what correction factor they used to create their crank numbers.

    Luckily, APR actually lists, albeit in incredibly small print, that the correction factor they use is 10%. Unfortunately, they do not publish which dynamometer they used to obtain their numbers which would really help our comparison.

    By applying APR’s correction factor of 10% to my stock A3’s recorded WHP/WTQ numbers we get 209 HP and 218 TQ at the crank on 91 octane where APR is showing 216 HP and 227 TQ on 93 octane. Okay, so 93 octane fuel will produce more power, an additional 7HP/9TQ but, nowhere near the peak gains that are shown on their chart. Now everything makes more sense! I’m glad we could clear that up.

    Look, is it fair to pick on APR? No, perhaps not. But they are a leading tuning software company that subscribes to the marketing and advertising confusion that I despise. But, they are not the worst offenders. In addition to fake crank dyno graphs, some manufactures simply list that their tunes will increase power by 35-60 HP and 50-80 TQ. What? Is it 35, or is it 60 HP? Is it 50, or 80 TQ? Pathetic. Make up your mind! Be specific! How much power am I going to gain with your tune? At least APR isn’t afraid of advertising the peak performance gains for their Tunes.

    Many will argue that different dynomometers provide different results and they would be correct, but, there are additional correction factors which can be applied to all the different dynos (and conditions) and as long as the consumer knows which dyno the manufactures vehicle was tested on, it will give the consumer something solid to compare their results with.

    For example, I purchased a supercharger kit for one of my other vehicles. The kit was advertised at delivering 190 peak wheel horsepower. I purchased and installed the kit and had my car tested on a Dynojet 248 where it made 187 peak wheel horsepower. Perfect! Testing the car was easy and I was happy with the results and thrilled that the manufacture supplied the wheel horsepower information. I don’t understand why it is so difficult for the VW/Audi Tuners not to offer the same service for their customers.

    Honestly, how hard would it be for the companies to publish the wheel horsepower and wheel torque results? Aren’t their ‘crank’ numbers derived from the wheel figures? Publish them both if you must! Is that really so hard?

    Ironically, my point was recently proven online when a forum member asked a question; Crank vs. Wheel? One of the leading Tuners responded as to why they use crank numbers for their products with the typical response, ‘because that’s how everything’s rated across the board’.

    He then proceeded to explain that they don’t use wheel horsepower and torque numbers because wheel numbers will change based on, but not limited to the following: transmission type, wheels, tires, tie-down strap resistance, roller surface, AWD, or FWD, and so on.

    He is right! All those factors will change the wheel horsepower and torque results. Yet, he admits that they use the same wheel horsepower and torque numbers to estimate their crank figures. What? If you just said that wheel numbers are so easily affected by so many variables how could you possibly use them to calculate your crank numbers?

    Easy, like I’ve said, they apply correction factors which solve each individual inconsistency between each different vehicle type, equipment, and build. They use these correction factors to calculate their crank numbers! They just want you to think that they are the only ones who possess the correct formula. Stupid consumer! You couldn’t possibly understand wheel horsepower figures.

    You see! It’s not about accuracy. It is all about the BIGGER, HIGHER, LARGER numbers to get your attention!

    While it is not listed on their website, GIAC has posted WHP/WTQ numbers for their Stage 1 ECU tune with and without additional modifications on a couple of the VW/Audi online forums. Way to go gentlemen! That is a good start and I hope that other companies will follow suit and ultimately begin to list these real performance results on their websites.

    Personally, I see no problems with advertising wheel horsepower numbers as it will only help the consumer in the end. The Tuning companies should have nothing to fear. Hopefully I make my point.

    Okay.

    End rant. Let’s move on.

    With my own research completed, to further help assist in my search for a Tune, I sought-out the experts…automotive forums, friends, and even, my local dealership.

    The questions I asked were mainly focused on the performance I could expect using the weak California 91 octane fuel (since most Tuners advertise gains using 93 octane…which produces more power) and how my future Stage 1 ECU tune would be affected by adding additional performance modifications like a performance intake, intercooler, down-pipe, exhaust, and a Water/Meth setup.

    I had a variety of helpful responses from friends and forum members and they were all greatly appreciated.

    I thought it was odd that most of the suggestions instructed me to purchase a Tune from my closest Tuner. I guess that is good advice if you live in an area where your options are limited but, I live in Southern California, and most of the popular Tunes are available locally. I just want to buy the best Tune for my needs and future plans. If that happens to be my closest Tuner, then great but, I didn’t want to base my entire decision on convenience and geography.

    Then, there were other suggestions for me to purchase either the APR, or GIAC Tunes because they are by far the most popular Stage 1 Tunes and people are really happy with their product.
    I even asked my local Audi dealer which Tuner they recommended. Ironically, they recommended Neuspeed, my closest Tuner. Go figure. Well, at least they didn’t recommend them because they were the closest; they recommend them because of their experience and history with them.

    However, going against all the advice I received online, I was most impressed and intrigued by the Tunes offered by Neuspeed and HPA because unlike most other Stage 1 ECU Tunes, they don’t require additional software or re-flashes for future modifications like a performance air intake, an intercooler, down-pipe, and an exhaust system and no additional maps for different octane fuels (which will be extremely useful when I add a W/M kit). I felt that these innovative features set these two Stage 1 ECU Tunes apart from the rest of the competition and sounded the best for me and my needs.

    Similar to politics and government, people like to hear what they want to hear, and not necessarily, what is best for them. So going along with that tradition, I decided to narrow my options to Neuspeed and HPA because they provided me with the most ‘free’ benefits.

    Unfortunately, what killed Neuspeed is that they don’t offer a K04 Tune and if I decide to go that route in the future, I would have to have my car re-Tuned by another company which, would suck. HPA does. I went with HPA.

    I not only chose HPA because of the features they offered in their Stage 1 ECU Tune but, because I have a good history with. They Tuned both the ECU and the DSG in my 2008 VW R32. I never had one issue. I was very happy with their product. I don’t see any reason to believe that their 2.0T Tune will be any different in terms of performance and reliability.

    I’ve heard some say that the HPA entered the 2.0T Tuning game way too late, their Stage 1 Tune is overpriced, and there is no room for another ‘new’ kid on the performance-tuning block but, I don’t see it that way. HPA is offering some very unique ECU software features that have been pioneered, tested, and proven during their successful and on-going 2.0T racing program. This alone should solidify their position in the 2.0T Tuning market.
    I believe their Stage 1 Tune is original and authentic and their pricing is extremely competitive IF their auto-adjusting and auto-optimizing claims for different octane fuel and future modifications are accurate.

    In the end, my decision had to be based on the company that delivered a Tune that offered the most features for my unique situation and future plans. As mentioned before it is a tough decision because all the Tuners offer a product for my unique situation.
    Still, I felt that HPA offered a little more.

    Alright, the Installation.

    I’ll admit, I’m not a computer guy and I was a bit nervous performing the download/upload ECU Tuning process myself. I don’t understand computers and I don’t like them. However, I’ve modifying cars for years so I figured I could get through it. I was right.
    HPA really makes this process easy. The Flash Tool kit is shipped in a professional double box package next day air. The outside box has all your shipping information and the inside box has all HPA’s return shipping information. So once you are finished, all you need to do put the Flash Tool in the box, seal it, drop it off at any UPS location for return. Simple, convenient and everything was done at my home.

    Huh, come to think of it, I guess HPA was my closest Tuner! LOL!

    Anyway, once the HPA software was installed on my computer, I plugged the HPA Flashing Tool into the OBD II port under the dash and started the reading process. Once finished, I saved the ECU files on my laptop and emailed them to HPA so they can be modified and sent back. This process took about 25 minutes. The next day I received an email with the modified ECU from HPA. I then quickly plugged my laptop back into the OBD II port and began the writing process which took about 35 minutes. As expected everything went smoothly. When finished, I eagerly but, carefully, disconnected all the equipment and prepared myself for my first drive with the newly modified HPA ECU Tuning. Here we go!

    The most common phrase I read and hear about regarding any 2.0T Stage 1 ECU performance tuning is that “the car should have come like this from the factory”. We’ll, that endlessly repeated statement, is true! The 2.0T should have come like this from the factory. My A3 is no longer the same. Thank God!

    The first thing I noticed was the razor sharp and immediate throttle response brought on by the new Tuning. There is no pause, there is no hesitation. The throttle response is excellent both on, and off boost. This alone is a huge improvement over the stock tuning. In addition, the acceleration is effortless and the power delivery is smooth, seamless, and very strong. Just the way I like it. The new-found power is intoxicating. It is definitely worth the price of admission!

    While stock, passing other cars was a virtual chess match because if challenged, I was always unsure if my A3 had enough power to pass; now, I no longer need to worry. My HPA Tuned A3 easily overtakes other cars on the highway with a surge determined confidence. I love the immediate sensation of speed and power pushing my body into the seat. The torque is so strong and broad you actually start to wonder if HPA manufactured a way to inject an unknown number of additional cylinders and more engine displacement through the OBD II port. Is that possible? But, then, I hear the eager K03 turbo spool, whistle, and hiss in precious agony thus creating the V6 like surge of power and of course, it is because of these angry and brutal whooshing turbo sounds that bring my wondering mind back to the reality that the engine propelling my vicious A3 is in fact, a turbo 4 cylinder. Yet, the low end torque brought on by the Tune is truly comparable in strength to a much larger displacement engine. Really! No, I am serious! Take a look at this…



    My A3 was tested by Tom at EFI West in Camarillo California on his DynoJet 220xlc and made an impressive 216 peak wheel horsepower and 235 peak wheel torque using 91 octane fuel.

    Here is another dynograph comparing my 100% stock A3 vs. the HPA Stage 1 ECU Tuned A3.



    The HPA Stage 1 ECU Tune produced an additional 26 peak wheel horsepower and 37 peak wheel torque on 91 octane fuel. Nice!

    HPA’s experience and command of the factory ECU software really shine in their Stage 1 ECU Tune. They have produced an excellent blend of innovative features and performance for the 2.0T. HPA’s connection with their 2.0T racing program is always present every time you press the accelerator pedal.

    Good job HPA!

    I will be logging and posting some additional dyno results for 100 octane and W/M to test The HPA Stage 1 ECU Tune for its ability to fully optimize and adjust for changes in octane fuels…
    Stay Tuned!

    Mike
    2009 Audi A3 2.0T DSG S-Line: HPA Stage 1, HPA DSG Stage 2, APR Carbonio Intake, S2T Paddle Shifters, ST Coilovers...

  17. #17
    Senior Member Three Rings dubguts's Avatar
    Join Date
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    Stafford VA

    tl;dr

    Cliff notes? lol
    2006 Audi A3 2.0t - APR Stage 2+

  18. #18
    Veteran Member Four Rings A3 Guy's Avatar
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    Charleston SC

    Quote Originally Posted by dubguts View Post
    tl;dr

    Cliff notes? lol
    Research--->false advertising--->math--->HPA Tune, yay!
    ~Brennan
    2014 allroad Premium Plus
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  19. #19
    Established Member Two Rings
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    Quote Originally Posted by dubguts View Post
    tl;dr

    Cliff notes? lol
    I'll be honest, I was thinking about making a cliff not version. :)

    Mike
    2009 Audi A3 2.0T DSG S-Line: HPA Stage 1, HPA DSG Stage 2, APR Carbonio Intake, S2T Paddle Shifters, ST Coilovers...

  20. #20
    Established Member Two Rings
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    Quote Originally Posted by A3 Guy View Post
    Research--->false advertising--->math--->HPA Tune, yay!
    Hitting the nail on the head! LOL!

    Mike
    2009 Audi A3 2.0T DSG S-Line: HPA Stage 1, HPA DSG Stage 2, APR Carbonio Intake, S2T Paddle Shifters, ST Coilovers...

  21. #21
    Established Member Two Rings
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    HPA DSG Stage 2 Upgrade Review.

    We like the DSG for its originality, technology, convenience, and performance. The DSG is unique because it is an auto-shifting gearbox. Most other automatic transmissions are ‘slush-boxes’ containing a traditional torque converter, clutches, valves, pumps, solenoids, and valve-bodies. The DSG doesn’t share the same internal parts and components like most automatic transmissions and it is more similar to a traditional manual gearbox than a traditional automatic. When it was first put into production, there were truly, no other comparable transmissions on the market. Today, it seems that every other automotive manufacture is attempting to build a transmission similar to the DSG.

    So, if the DSG is so darn good, so innovative, and performs so well, why would there be any need to modify it? How can you improve it? What changes could be made? Simple, the programming.

    While the DSG itself maybe one of the best auto-shifting transmissions ever made, it still relies on a brain, a module, something called a mechatronic, to control all the clutch and shifting functions. Luckily, changes can be made to the mechatronic programming to improve the performance and reliability of the DSG transmission.

    Let me explain.

    The DSG has three separate user-selected driving modes. The Auto mode, Manual mode, and Sport mode. They each have a different but, self-explanatory function.

    Here’s the problem, the more I drive my A3, the more I find fault with all three modes of the DSG’s factory programming.

    The Auto mode is trash. Absolute trash! It is full of strange drivability hiccups and awful surging issues. The DSG doesn’t know how to leave smoothly from a stop, or how to modulate the clutches in a parking lot at slow speeds. How did the factory miss this? In addition, can anyone explain why, in Auto mode, the DSG will shift into fourth gear while travelling through a short intersection, from a dead stop? Do I really need to be in fourth gear at 20 MPH? Do I really need to be in sixth gear at 35 MPH?

    In Auto mode, while leaving from an intersection, I have trouble getting ahead of traffic because the transmission will not hold a gear long enough for me to pick up some speed! I can’t out-accelerate anyone around me! The DSG won’t stop up-shifting! During these events I can sense the DSG finding pleasure by completely pissing me off.
    But, that’s not all.
    There are times when I’m cruising at 45 MPH in sixth gear (Yes, that is correct, sixth gear!) and a situation presents itself where I need to accelerate. I lightly press the throttle which you obviously think will result in a down-shift and an increase in speed but, instead, I sit there, coasting, waiting for something to happen. Only after an unpleasant and forever-long delay does the DSG decide on what it wants to do and react. But, by this time, the entire reason for accelerating has past and I’m left there depressed, deflated, and dumbfounded. Seriously, this happens, all the time!
    I figure that if the DSG wants to be in sixth gear at such an ungodly speed, that it could at least be prepared to down-shift and get moving when you need it to, but, no! It doesn’t want to!

    The only way around these bizarre and infuriating situations is to completely ‘floor’ the accelerator pedal so the DSG understands how serious you are. This action, will then engage multiple down-shifts that unfortunately take way too long but, at least you will eventually start moving faster. However, you never know if the DSG’s reaction will be fast enough for you to accomplish your goal. The thought of having to perform a ‘full-throttle’ action for such a simple task is completely unnecessary. No, it’s actually ridiculous!

    The DSG’s factory programming is so slow and lazy you almost feel bad about making it do anything it doesn’t want to do. Driving the DSG in Auto mode is no more fun than dealing with a virus on your computer. Better yet, driving the DSG in auto mode is like being forced to call the Cable Company, it’s that frustrating!

    The reason why this happens is because the DSG is programmed for fuel economy and it is also trying to prepare and anticipate for its next shift. However, when you deviate from its plan, it freaks. I understand Audi and VW programmed the DSG for fuel economy but, this is unacceptable!

    The Sport mode has the same drivability hiccups and surging issues that are experienced in the Auto mode. Luckily, though, the Sport mode won’t up-shift nearly as often as the Auto mode, so it is more fun to drive. However, have you ever driven on the track in Sport mode? The Sport mode still up-shifts way too early and will not allow you to hold gears when you want, or need to. Like, on a race track while driving through a corner! In fact, I never use Sport mode because quite frankly, it takes the ‘Sport’ out of driving.

    The Manual mode is by far the best driving mode of the DSG. I spend all my driving time in Manual mode. However, it is also not immune to the drivability hiccups and surging issues as experienced in the other modes. In addition, if you aren’t traveling quickly, the response from the paddle shifters are too slow and the DSG won’t change gears when you need it to. I’ve experienced huge delays before the transmission actually responds to my inputs. There is no excuse for this! Moreover, up-shifts and especially down-shifts aren’t nearly as fast as you would expect. Furthermore, the most obscene Manual mode offense is if you attempt to accelerate at full-throttle, or hit the rev-limiter under acceleration, the DSG will actually up-shift and down-shift automatically! What! There is nothing Manual about that!

    So what is the solution to these issues? What is the cure?

    Simple. The HPA DSG Stage 2 upgrade.

    The HPA DSG Stage 2 upgrade features a progressive shift response, increased torque limit, enabled launch control, and eliminated automatic shifting in M and S modes (up to 95% throttle). Two features that are not being used for my A3 include the elevated rev-limiter (which can be enabled if necessary) and the in-dash gear display which, my A3 already has.

    The installation.

    The installation process is straight forward. It can be done by HPA, an authorized dealer, or yourself. It is that easy. All the information is read and uploaded through the factory OBD port under the left side of the dashboard, or the DSG port under the hood underneath the air cleaner assembly. All you need to do is simply plug the HPA tool into the OBD/DSG port and let the magic happen. The information that is taken from the car is sent to HPA for them to analyze and recode. Once that has been done, the HPA tool is reconnected to the OBD/DSG port and the new programming is uploaded. The whole process takes about an hour, which can seem like a year, when you are sweating with sweet anticipation.

    How does it work? What is it like?

    The Auto mode basically remains unchanged with the HPA DSG Stage 2 upgrade. The only difference with the HPA Stage 2 and the factory programmed DSG, is quicker shift times and the elimination of the majority of low-speed drivability hiccups, and surging. Which is nice but, that’s it. So, unfortunately, the factory programmed up-shifting shenanigans and frustrations remain. In order to have HPA solve all the DSG Auto mode issues you have to go with their Stage 3 DSG programming where all the calibrations of the Auto mode are changed. I personally don’t drive in Auto mode, so I don’t care but, for those of you that do, you either have to fork-out some more cash, or go with a different DSG upgrade.

    The Sport mode is modified with quicker shifts, the elimination of most low-speed hiccups and surging, and by enabling the DSG to hold gears longer, up to 95% throttle, which will help during spirited and track driving. The improvements are significant but, still not enough to tempt me to use it on a regular basis. I honestly didn’t spend much time trying to explore the extent of HPA’s Sport mode modifications because I was looking forward to the M mode.

    The HPA modified M mode performance is what this upgrade is all about. Driving with the Stage 2 DSG upgrade is an absolute blast! The most notable improvements are the quicker shifts, no automatic up-shifting, or down-shifting, much faster response from the paddle shifters, a 3,700 RPM launch control feature, and like the other two modes, the virtual elimination of the surging and hiccups at low-speeds.

    Yeah, that’ll leave a mark.

    Haha! Launch control. Select M mode and press the ESP button while pushing the brake pedal with your left foot. Then, gently press on the accelerator pedal with your right foot to bring up the RPM’s. When they reach the limit, release the brake pedal and mash the accelerator pedal to the floor. That, is how you engage the new launch control feature.
    With the HPA DSG Stage 2 launch control set at 3,700 RPM’s combined with a HPA’s Stage 1 ECU tune, my FWD A3 shreds the tires with ease producing an epic cloud of smoke. It makes me feel like I’m sixteen again. The tires don’t stand a chance with the amount of power available at 3,700 RPM’s. HPA’s launch control feature is a gloriously violent event which I find extremely enjoyable. I don’t think that the launch control will help my acceleration times (well, maybe with slick tires) but, the fun factor has been raised exponentially. It will definitely impress your friends and on-lookers. Just make sure you know who is watching. Folks will definitely take notice and sadly, not everybody enjoys a good burn-out.
    In my opinion, to take full advantage of the HPA launch control, you really need to have AWD, but since my A3 is FWD, I’ll just have to work on my throttle modulation. Or not!

    The new and improved HPA programming shifts fast, real fast. I can even feel and sense the change in normal driving but, once I start driving aggressively, man, the DSG makes some super-fast shifts. They claim that the DSG shifts 60% faster with their Stage 2 upgrade, yeah, I believe it! The DSG responds immediately to my paddle shifter inputs and each shift engagement is way more solid, positive, and much more direct than before. The down-shifts are also more direct, mechanical, solid, and much faster. I don’t know if it is due to the changes to the clutch programming but, the car just feels stronger during acceleration.

    In addition, it’s nice to be able to give my A3 full-throttle and not have the DSG down-shift automatically. Moreover, I like having the ability to bounce of the rev-limiter in each gear if I want to. Though, I don’t plan on making that a habit. Finally! No automatic shifting in Manual mode!

    My DSG experience has definitely been improved and enhanced by HPA. The HPA Stage 2 DSG upgrade virtually eliminated all the quirks, hiccups, surging, and ridiculous delays caused by the factory programming. The features of the Stage 2 upgrade function flawlessly. It’s funny how the factory couldn’t get it right. Thank God, we have companies like HPA that are willing to invest their time and money to correct and improve the DSG’s performance for the enthusiast. The new HPA Stage 2 programming is all business and it gets the job done. It performs as advertised and it is too much fun and far too effective to ignore.

    If you have a DSG equipped vehicle, use M mode, and have yet to install a DSG upgrade, then you don’t know what you are missing, because… You are missing everything! You can’t go wrong with HPA’s DSG stage 2 upgrade. This upgrade is worth every penny.

    Mike
    2009 Audi A3 2.0T DSG S-Line: HPA Stage 1, HPA DSG Stage 2, APR Carbonio Intake, S2T Paddle Shifters, ST Coilovers...

  22. #22
    Established Member Two Rings
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    APR Carbonio Stage 1 and Stage 2 intake.

    I’ll admit, I’m a whore for real high quality authentic materials. I don’t care what I’m shopping for… automotive, home, business, ect., if it looks like leather, I want real leather, if it looks like wood, I want real wood, if it looks like aluminum, I want real aluminum, and so on.

    Carbon Fiber and Titanium are my two favorite materials (no, I don’t own the carbon fiber toilet seat, even I have limits). Over the years I’ve purchased and installed plenty of Carbon Fiber and Titanium products on my vehicles.

    When I began researching performance air intakes for my 2.0T A3, there was one performance intake that really got my interest quick, the APR Carbonio Performance Intake System. Why did it so easily capture my attention? Price? Performance? No. It demanded my immediate attention because it is made from real authentic aerospace grade carbon fiber.

    The APR Carbonio intake system retails for $299 which is more, or less competitive with all the other performance intakes available for the 2.0T. But, since the APR Carbonio intake is constructed entirely from real authentic carbon fiber, I had to own one.

    The APR Carbonio intake system is offered in both a Stage 1 and a Stage 2. The Stage 1 is the main box that contains the air filter and all the components that make this intake functional. The Stage 2 turbocharger inlet pipe is a super-smooth fantastic looking add-on, which, of course, is made with the same exceptional grade of carbon fiber. The Stage 2 pipe is essentially unnecessary, costs another $199, and is said, to not produce any performance benefits but, who cares when it looks so freaking good. I literally can’t get enough carbon fiber goodness so obviously I ordered both the Stage 1 and Stage 2 intake components.

    The APR Carbonio performance intake is claimed to increase horsepower and torque, enhanced turbo sounds, reduce turbo spool time and turbo ‘lag’, increase air velocity, provide smoother transitional air-flow, reduce intake temperatures, improve fuel economy, and increase throttle response.
    Man, that’s some list of improvements. I’m just happy it’s made from real carbon fiber. If it happens to provide any of these additional benefits, well, than that’s a bonus.

    The APR Carbonio intake comes with detailed instructions that are easy to read and understand. It is shipped with all the necessary hardware for installation, however, since my 2.0T has a CBFA engine code, I did have to order a special APR breather filter to compliment my intake. In addition, I had read that some folks had issues with the intake rubbing on certain parts under the hood, so to avoid any potential issues; I ordered the solution, a Modshack APR Carbonio bracket. This bracket positions the intake perfectly so there won’t be any interference with the intake or any other component. Plus, I don’t want to damage the beautiful carbon fiber, or its lovely finish.

    The APR Carbonio intake is supposed to install without any cutting, or modifications but, unfortunately, during my installation, I did have to trim and remove some material from the Carbon Fiber box assembly to fit the tight front-grille ram-air section of my A3. After this was done, however, the Stage 1 portion of the intake was installed in minutes. Super easy. The installation of the Stage 2 pipe was straight forward and easy. No problems. I was extra cautious and took a little extra time making sure the pipe was installed and positioned properly before I tightened everything down. Once finished, I was very pleased the overall fitment and of course, the appearance.





    What can I say about the appearance? It is awesome. It couldn’t be better. The intake looks super clean in the engine bay and the carbon fiber truly has a show quality finish. I’m impressed. It quenches my thriving and unyielding thirst for real authentic carbon fiber. This intake belongs on an F1 race car but, I’m happy it fits on my A3.

    Hammer down!

    I don’t know if it was necessary but, after the intake was installed, I let the engine idle for 10 minutes to let the ECU re-calibrate itself while I took in the new sounds from the intake. On the road the first thing I noticed was that the APR intake is louder than the stock box and while it does produce some new interesting turbo sounds, they weren’t nearly as loud, or obnoxious as I was lead to believe. This intake is nowhere near as loud as the Carbonio intake I had on my 1.8T. I can easily live with the ‘enhanced’ sounds of this intake on a daily basis.
    The APR Carbonio intake definitely improves the throttle response. It is noticeable. The new intake seems to spool the turbo a little quicker and allow for better acceleration and even though I think I can feel a slight increase in power, especially in the upper RPM’s, I can’t be sure. My butt-dyno has never been too accurate.

    For fun, I had my A3 dyno’d on a DynoJet 220 to see if there were any real performance gains from the new APR Carbonio intake. This dyno graph compares the stock intake vs. the APR Carbonio intake combined with the HPA Stage 1 Tune.

    Let’s take a look at the results.

    Dyno:


    As you can see, my A3 lost power from idle to 6,000 RPMs with the APR Carbonio intake, but, gained power from 6,000 to 6,500 RPMs. The total peak gains from the intake were 2whp and 0wtq.

    Boost Dyno:


    I was a little surprised by these results. I knew the intake was going to make more power in the upper RPM’s but, I truly thought the intake would make the same, or perhaps a little more power throughout the RPM range. Since the intake was installed while the car was on the dyno and ran after it had already logged several dyno runs it is possible that the car had become too heat-soaked, or that the ECU wasn’t given enough time to re-calibrate, causing the intakes poor dyno performance. I don’t know for sure but, either way, I’m keeping the intake.

    The APR Carbonio intakes solid construction of real authentic aerospace quality carbon fiber delivers a stunning appearance. It looks fantastic and gives me an excuse to open my hood for any opportunity. With the Modshack bracket in place, the APR/Carbonio intake fits perfectly. Moreover, the APR Carbonio intake offers a noticeable boost in throttle response, reduced turbo ‘lag’, and additional power in the upper RPM’s that can be altogether proven, witnessed, and felt. The enhanced turbo sounds are highly subjective but, with my driving style, I welcome them. I think the APR Carbonio intake is a great value and I’m happy with my purchase.

    Mike
    2009 Audi A3 2.0T DSG S-Line: HPA Stage 1, HPA DSG Stage 2, APR Carbonio Intake, S2T Paddle Shifters, ST Coilovers...

  23. #23
    Established Member Two Rings
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    The HPA Stage 1 ECU Tune is advertised as having the ability to automatically adjust to simple engine modifications and 91, 93, and 100 octane fuels thus negating the need for additional tunes, programs, and stages.

    I believe it is pretty much common knowledge that you can’t expect any improvements in efficiency or, performance by running a higher octane fuel in an engine that isn’t designed or programmed for it. Like, for example, filling up a Toyota Corolla with 100 octane. I’m sorry, you aren’t going to make any additional power or increase your gas mileage with 100 octane. In fact, you are probably going to hurt the engine performance since the car won’t be running as efficiently with the high octane fuel. In this case, the adding 100 octane would be a complete waste of time and money. Seriously, in a stock Toyota Corolla, stick with the 87 octane as suggested and published in the owner’s manual.

    Luckily, we don’t own Toyota Corolla’s (well, some of us might) and our VW/Audi 2.0T engines can and will benefit from 100 octane fuels if properly tuned for it.

    I’ve had my 2009 A3 dyno’d with the HPA Stage 1 ECU software on several occasions. The most recent dyno was done to test the HPA Tune’s ability to auto-adjust and auto-optimize for 100 octane.

    Originally, with 91 octane, my A3 made 216whp/235wtq with only the HPA Stage 1 ECU Tune. My next dyno session was with the HPA Tune and APR Carbonio intake which produced 218whp/235wtq. My most recent dyno was with the HPA Stage 1 HPA ECU Tune, APR Carbonio intake, and 100 octane.

    The dyno results:


    On 100 octane it made 229whp/273wtq which is an increase of 11whp/38wtq over the 91 octane. The HPA Stage 1 Tune with 100 octane produced an additional 39whp/75wtq over the factory tune. Freaking awesome!

    Going back to our Toyota Corolla example, when a car is not Tuned for a specific fuel it can actually HURT performance. In this case, the 100 octane fuel increased the performance of my 2.0T which means that the HPA Stage 1 ECU software is in-fact pre-programmed for 100 octane and it CAN auto-adjust and auto-optimize for higher octane fuels. I am impressed.
    These results provide definitive proof to their auto-optimizing claims.

    Yeah, yeah, yeah…
    But, how does it feel…What is it like to drive the car with 100 octane.

    Well, the dyno numbers aren’t lying; with 100 octane my car is a beast. It is angry. The car is a lot more powerful and accelerates faster, when I can find traction. If I roll on the throttle in second, once the boost spikes, the extra power will shred the tires all the way to redline. It didn’t do that with 91 octane.
    Furthermore, the 100 octane brought on a unique power-surge that is hard to explain. Sure, there is a ton of extra torque in the low RPM’s but, in the middle to high RPM’s, there is a burst of power that makes it feel as if, the small K03 turbo isn’t running out of breathe. Ironically, this bizarre power-surge combination makes the power delivery feel linear, which isn’t something you would expect from a Stage 1 Tune.

    HPA isn’t the only company offering 100 octane programming for their Stage 1 2.0T software. Both APR and GIAC offer the same feature, but only with a specific and separate 100 octane file which of course, comes at an extra cost. There aren’t too many independent Dynojet examples illustrating the performance boost that the APR and GIAC Stage 1 100 octane Tunes produce but, I found a few Dynojet examples online showing the APR Stage 1 100 octane Tune with intake making 231whp/281wtq and the GIAC Stage 1 100 octane with intake producing 234whp/271wtq. Compared with my HPA 100 octane dyno results, the APR and GIAC 100 octane specific files produce slightly better peak numbers but, I have to be happy with the gains I’ve experienced from 91 to 100 octane with the HPA software and, I didn’t have to switch files.

    Overall, as you can tell, I’m mightily impressed with the Stage 1 100 octane numbers and results! Why so impressive? Well, because this is really cheap power. For the cost of a Tune, the fuel, and a performance intake, you can make a ton of extra power.
    Who would have thought you could make 229whp/273wtq with just a Tune, an intake, and 100 octane gas? Incredible.

    The Stage 1 with 100 octane almost produces as much power as the APR/GIAC Stage 2 packages on 93 octane. The APR Stage 2 makes an average of 246whp/287wtq while the GIAC Stage 2 averages 241whp/286wtq and we’ve already discussed what the Stage 1 on 100 octane makes. In reality, you are only giving up an average of 10whp/10wtq with the Stage 1 100 octane file. Plus with the Stage 2, it doesn’t just include software but, you need to purchase hardware, like a turbo down-pipe and supporting modifications which can cost a lot of cash. Is it really worth it?

    I know there were a lot of skeptics out there regarding HPA’s auto-adjusting and auto-optimizing claims. In my opinion and with my experience testing the HPA Stage 1 ECU Tune, my results show that their auto-optimizing claims are true. The definitive proof is in the numbers, the software, and in the 100 octane fuel.

    My next performance modification will be Water/Methanol injection, so I’m obviously looking forward to testing the 100 octane vs. the Water/Meth injection. I’m not sure which type of fuel will provide the best power or how the delivery of fuel will affect the results but, I can’t wait to find out!

    Stay tuned…

    Mike
    2009 Audi A3 2.0T DSG S-Line: HPA Stage 1, HPA DSG Stage 2, APR Carbonio Intake, S2T Paddle Shifters, ST Coilovers...

  24. #24
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    My first post but your post is Excellent. I just want to be able to refer back to all this information so I replied to this thread.
    I have only one question as far as a track car is that for the extra 165 pounds would the Quattro handle better or even take off better with the "launch mode"? I am looking into getting a new A3, blk/blk, and did not want the extra running gear but if it added to the fun you seem to be having here then should I go for it?

  25. #25
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    Quote Originally Posted by AutoUyen View Post
    My first post but your post is Excellent. I just want to be able to refer back to all this information so I replied to this thread.
    I have only one question as far as a track car is that for the extra 165 pounds would the Quattro handle better or even take off better with the "launch mode"? I am looking into getting a new A3, blk/blk, and did not want the extra running gear but if it added to the fun you seem to be having here then should I go for it?
    Thanks!

    I previously owned an '08 R32 which had both launch control and AWD. The extra weight of the AWD can be felt but, I truly don't believe it negatively effects the overall handling of the car. In fact, that extra weight can be helpful for additional grip in high speed corners.

    The AWD has obvious benefits for launch control. In my R32 I had the LC set at 5,800 RPM's and when engaged the tires would spin, chirp, and then the car would take-off hellaciously fast. I've only owned two car that could leave from a dead-stop faster, my old '95 Z28 (450whp/500wtq) on drag-slick-tires and my previous '05 WRX STi which I'd launch at a similar 5,800 RPM's...

    Had I purchased new, I would have bought a Quattro.

    Mike
    2009 Audi A3 2.0T DSG S-Line: HPA Stage 1, HPA DSG Stage 2, APR Carbonio Intake, S2T Paddle Shifters, ST Coilovers...

  26. #26
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    My custom polished clear anodized paddle shifters from S2T Performance have arrived! I'm looking forward to installing them hopefully today or tomorrow.
    Review to follow...





    Mike
    2009 Audi A3 2.0T DSG S-Line: HPA Stage 1, HPA DSG Stage 2, APR Carbonio Intake, S2T Paddle Shifters, ST Coilovers...

  27. #27
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    Very Nice!
    Live it Love It Drive It.

    2010 A3 TDI, Premium +, Sky, S-Line, Titanium, Navi-W/Media, Winter, H&R, Hankook V12's

    -} Brian or BrianArvel

  28. #28
    Active Member Two Rings Small_A3's Avatar
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    Hi Mike,

    A couple of weeks ago I picked up a used 2009 A3 myself with 32000 miles. While searching for the "right" ECU flash I came across your posts here. (BTW, I am also not that far from you living in the SF Valley.) I was converging to APR for whom I found some posts claiming that they have the most "conservative" tune reliability-wise and also give you the ability to switch back to the stock program by a simple push of a button. I noticed you went with HPA instead, and have a few questions:

    (1) You dynoed +26HP over stock where the HPA website says you should get +45HP. How can such difference be explained?
    (2) HPA seems to be priced at a premium relative to their competition, is there evidence that hey deserve it?
    (3) Do you know if HPA has a local dealer in LA that can do the flash and perhaps later on even install their K04 kit?

    I would add that APR has many dealers in LA and this combined with the free trial of the ECU flash for a few hours is one of the reasons I was thinking of giving them a shot first.

    Great Thread!

  29. #29
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    Quote Originally Posted by Small_A3 View Post
    Hi Mike,

    A couple of weeks ago I picked up a used 2009 A3 myself with 32000 miles. While searching for the "right" ECU flash I came across your posts here. (BTW, I am also not that far from you living in the SF Valley.) I was converging to APR for whom I found some posts claiming that they have the most "conservative" tune reliability-wise and also give you the ability to switch back to the stock program by a simple push of a button. I noticed you went with HPA instead, and have a few questions:

    (1) You dynoed +26HP over stock where the HPA website says you should get +45HP. How can such difference be explained?
    (2) HPA seems to be priced at a premium relative to their competition, is there evidence that hey deserve it?
    (3) Do you know if HPA has a local dealer in LA that can do the flash and perhaps later on even install their K04 kit?

    I would add that APR has many dealers in LA and this combined with the free trial of the ECU flash for a few hours is one of the reasons I was thinking of giving them a shot first.

    Great Thread!
    Thanks!
    Congrats on your A3 purchase!

    Performance.

    First and foremost ‘advertising’ claims are going to be different from real-world gains. In this case, the various Tuners advertise their gains in ‘crank’ HP numbers. My posts represent real ‘wheel’ HP/TQ numbers. To fairly compare my results with their advertising claims I have to adjust my WHP/WTQ numbers to ‘crank’ numbers. My crank results with the HPA stage 1 tune are 244HP/265TQ. My stock crank numbers are 212HP/221 (much higher than what is advertised from Audi 200/207). The peak crank gains from the HPA stage 1 tune are 32HP/43TQ. As you can see we are still short of HPA’s advertised 45HP. But, perhaps those numbers could be achieved on a different dyno under different conditions. However, I’ll stick with my numbers.

    I think you can understand that it would be quite tempting for a company to advertise their stage 1 gains and compare them with Audi’s advertised crank numbers. You can ask yourself how many potential customers are actually going to dyno their car completely stock to get a true baseline before adding any aftermarket parts or software like I did? Not many. So companies are always tempted to stretch the truth regarding gains. If we compare my dyno results converted to crank with Audi’s advertised crank numbers we see gains of 44HP/58TQ and those gains look a lot better to the consumer. Right or wrong, I see most, if not all, of the Tuners applying this logic to their advertising. I personally, don’t like it.

    Price.

    Honestly, if you were to drive my A3, you’d be sold. In my opinion, HPA deserves their asking price especially with the auto-adjusting capabilities. I’m a busy guy but, you are local, and you are welcome to hit-me-up...

    Flash/K04.

    The Flash you can do yourself. It is very convenient, super easy, and can be done at your own home. I really enjoyed doing it myself. I learned something...
    Regarding the K04, I’m sure you can find a shop that will install the K04 kit and you can do the upgrade flash in minutes.

    Isn’t APR the only Tuner offering free trials? It is a smart idea because I feel without any prior experience with other Tuners, you’d be sold on the FIRST, or ANY stage 1 flash. Every stage 1 Tune will make THAT much of a difference.

    I would advise you to take a drive in as many stage 1 cars as you can before dropping the coin on a Tune.

    Mike
    2009 Audi A3 2.0T DSG S-Line: HPA Stage 1, HPA DSG Stage 2, APR Carbonio Intake, S2T Paddle Shifters, ST Coilovers...

  30. #30
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    Quote Originally Posted by Barvel View Post
    Very Nice!
    Thank you.
    I'll have my review posted soon...

    Mike
    2009 Audi A3 2.0T DSG S-Line: HPA Stage 1, HPA DSG Stage 2, APR Carbonio Intake, S2T Paddle Shifters, ST Coilovers...

  31. #31
    Active Member Two Rings Small_A3's Avatar
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    You are right-on about the tuners untruthful advertising when it comes to the actual gains. I am in total agreement with you in that they should take a stock car and dyno it right before and right after the flash with the "same octane gas" and report the peak HP-gain at the wheels. If it's +26HP, so be it, this is the only true measure of gains, period!

    From the APR site:

    http://www.goapr.com/products/ecu_up...fsi_trans.html

    Their dyno plot shows the stock-car horsepower is 212-CHP (not 200-CHP as per manufacturer's claim) and their stage-I tune as 252-CHP on 93-gas! This reading occurs at about 6000 RPM. It's not clear from their website if the before-and-after were on the same gas (i.e., 93) and this had me wondering why they wouldn't make this clear to the public. Since you are claiming 212-CHP on 91 octane BEFORE you added your tune, let's assume that APR was somewhat dishonest and dyno-tested their stock car with 91-octane to show a bigger HP gain relative to the after-flash result which they got with 93-octane. Now scrolling further down the page you see a table for the A3 which at 91-octane reads 246-CHP. If we believe this table, the difference at 91 is thus 246-212 = 34 horses at crank. Assuming 15% drivetrain loss (conservative) we can estimate the gain at the wheels to be 34*0.85 = 28.9. So I would expect to see about 29-WHP difference in my dyno results right after the APR tune if I were to buy it. This number is just a little bit larger than yours which makes it somewhat believable.

    I would feel much more comfortable if these tuners gave us the truth up front: i.e., "we have measured +29 WHP under these conditions" rather than the BS that's going now. But in the larger scheme of things if you believe that all the good tuners have pretty much the same know-how about our engine they will produce comparable performance so the choice becomes one of ease-of-doing it and secondary features. Let's face it, getting 30 more HP for $600 is a steal considering that the next 30 HP you will try to add will cost much much more.

    I have to confess that I lack the skills and also the "excitement" in doing work on my own car preferring instead to drive to a reasonably-priced shop to get it done by someone who is supposed to know what they are doing. This is why I still think APR maybe the best bet for me due to their easily accessible local dealer network. Also, they perform the flash in one visit on the spot without the back-and-forth you have with the others.

  32. #32
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    ^^^^^^
    Agreed.

    As I said in my original Stage 1 review, I would much rather see Tuners advertise their gains in WHP/WTQ figures especially since their crank numbers are derived from them. They totally have the ability to include and specify which dyno used and the various conditions that they experienced during the testing. If these results were published, the consumer can then make an educated decision and comparison (unlike what we have today) using real accurate numbers.

    GIAC is the only Tuner that I’ve seen post actual WHP/WTQ results for their Stage 1 Tune on 91 octane (in this case 216WHP/234WTQ…almost identical to the numbers I made). But, of course they don’t post this information on their website for advertising purposes. This information can only by found on an online enthusiast forum. It sucks that you have to search for the truth rather than have a company openly advertise it.
    However, in GIAC’s defense, no other Tuner is offering this information…and, for the most part, it is pretty misunderstood by most the VW/Audi community which is one of the reasons WHP/WTQ figures aren't published. I’ve experienced this issue with my own reviews. I’ve posted the WHP/WTQ gains of my Stage 1 Tune and it seems that folks get confused with APR’s advertising results and real results. I’ve been asked constantly why did my HPA tune make so little? The truth is that the APR Tune didn’t make those numbers. Those numbers are inflated and the real APR WHP/WTQ numbers are very similar to the gains I’ve witnessed with HPA Tune.

    It is funny you mention that APR’s Tune is the most ‘conservative’ Tune because their website advertises their Stage 1 Tune as making more power than any other Tuner (well, with the exception of a few). On their website, they claim that they use a correction factor of 10% which is complete BS. I prefer using a correction factor of 12%. Ironically, GIAC is supposed to be a more aggressive Tune, more aggressive than APR at least. Yet, as I stated above, GIAC’s Stage 1 Tune makes 216WHP/234WTQ and APR’s own advertising states that their Stage 1 Tune should produce 225WHP/265WTQ on 91 octane, which is a complete fabrication because it doesn’t. If a 12% correction factor is used we’ll get 220WHP/258WTQ which is much more accurate. However, I still haven’t seen those numbers from an APR Stage 1 Tune without an intake and never on 91 octane.

    I have researched plenty, far more than most. And the reality is that most, if not all the Tuners are making roughly the same amount of WHP/WTQ with their Stage 1 Tunes +/- 5WHP, +/- 10WTQ.

    Trust me, if you can send an email, you can Tune your own car. It really is that easy.

    Regardless, however, you simply can’t beat the power you can unleash with ANY Tune. I recommend them all.

    Mike
    Last edited by Rdrcr; 11-19-2012 at 03:52 PM.
    2009 Audi A3 2.0T DSG S-Line: HPA Stage 1, HPA DSG Stage 2, APR Carbonio Intake, S2T Paddle Shifters, ST Coilovers...

  33. #33
    Active Member Two Rings Small_A3's Avatar
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    Mike,

    Very much in agreement regarding your point that most tunes (at least from the "respected" tuners) will provide about the same gains. A couple more things:

    If I may ask, how much does your guy in Camarillo charge for a dyno pull? I am thinking of getting a before-and-after dyno as well just to see the difference of the APR tune. They have a nice shopping mall there and I was thinking of taking the drive anyway to do some shopping for the coming holidays.

    I just finished reading your review of the Carbonio and I must admit that I was not impressed by your dyno gains. In fact, looking at your before-and-after dyno at lower RPMs I think I prefer to stock intake. The question is: Does the APR tune take better advantage of the Carbonio than the other tunes? I am asking this because I saw a post to one of your threads by the APR guy who seemed to be surprised about your result (I think he expected better performance) and he was pointing to your choice of tune (HPA) as the culprit. For now I am skipping the Carbonio while researching some more.

    I also read your HPA Stage-II DSG S/W review, very impressive and thorough. [You my friend are very talented in providing simple explanations for things you research.] However, unlike you I am one of those guys who rarely uses the M-mode (manual shifting). On the streets I put it on S-mode and for freeway cruising I set it on D-mode. In your opinion, is it worth for me getting the HPA stage-2 DSG S/W at $900 or even their stage-3 DSG at $2000? These numbers come from their website here: http://www.hpamotorsport.com/dsg-stages.htm The other company I am now researching for DSG SW is Unitronic: http://www.unitronic-chipped.com/ecu...urbo-2009-2010 Their Stage-1 is $500 while their Stage-2 is $600. So HPA appears be pricing their products consistently higher across the board relative to their competition and it's not clear to me yet whether they truly deserve the extra $$. I just now started to research the Unitronic DSG SW, if you already done that, please share your views on them. (As you can see I am new at this but ... "thirsty for knowledge").

    One final thing I want to mention is that it's becoming clear to me that to get the first +30 WHP you only need spend $600 but to get the next +30 WHP you need to spend north of $2500 (HPFP, full exhaust, stage-2 S/W, Install $) which is 4X-5X the dollars of the stage 1 tune. After that comes the turbo upgrade, to get you close to 300 WHP but once you go for that you will also need other mods just to keep the car's added power "in balance" with the rest of it. It seems to me that the low hanging fruit is the stage-I tune which is a must for this car but it's not clear to me that the stage-II or stage-III is worth the $$, effort, and risk due to the added stress on the engine and drivetrain.

    Thx again for providing this great forum for discussion.

  34. #34
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    ^^^^^
    EFI West charges $80 for three dyno pulls which, is extremely reasonable (most charge $100). However, unfortunately, they have moved from their Camarillo location to another location near El Monte.

    I would love, love to see a before and after pull comparing stock vs. APR Stage 1. You would be one of the first to actually post and share those results.

    I wasn’t impressed with my APR Carbonio results either. The gains in the upper RPM’s didn’t surprise me but, I was very disappointed with the losses in the low-mid RPM’s. Please keep in mind that the intake was installed on the dyno and I didn’t drive the car to allow the ECU to adequately adjust to the new intake (we just installed it, started the car, and dyno’d it). The intake obviously didn’t hurt the 100 octane performance. However, I have been contacted by several members on another forum, with different Stage 1 Tunes (APR, & GIAC), that have experienced the same results. Ironically though, the intake did enable the stock turbo to spool quicker and allow for more boost throughout the RPM range. Strangely, it just didn’t translate to power. Take it for what it is worth but, I’ve heard that the design is the problem and that it causes false MAF readings which is why the intake doesn’t hold or make additional power in the low-mid RPM’s.

    Personally, I don’t think any intake will help or improve the 2.0T’s performance until Stage 2 or a turbo upgrade.

    I do believe that HPA offers the BEST software for the DSG. However, if you don’t use M-mode, then their Stage 2 upgrade will not be worth your money and their Stage 3 is simply too expensive. I think I was very fair in my review to point out that the competition offers changes to D and S modes while HPA only changes S mode. Many enthusiasts want improvements to D mode, especially if they are paying $800. I would recommend that look into GIAC or Unitronic for a DSG Tune. Both the GIAC and Unitronic DSG Tunes have favorable reviews but, we don’t really know about the longevity of their DSG upgrades. HPA has been doing it the longest. They have more knowledge regarding the DSG compared to the competition. They have an excellent relationship with VW/Audi OEM. They are the only company that is using the DSG for professional racing. I think they have earned the right to charge a small premium for their software. They have my support for anything DSG.

    There are very few cars on the market where you can get an extra 30WHP for such little money. I’ll take that any day. You are correct that the next 30WHP + requires a much larger investment. But, I still feel that $3K is cheap for 300WHP/300WTQ.
    The HPFP is required the ’08 and older FSI 2.0T engines. I don’t believe our ’09 A3’s require that costly upgrade.

    I’m not sure how I feel about Stage 2 being worth the money for the gains but, I know the K04 would be worth the cost. In addition, you’ll lose a little power but, you don’t NEED to replace the OEM down-pipe or exhaust with the K04…the stock stuff will work.

    Mike
    Last edited by Rdrcr; 11-20-2012 at 10:39 AM.
    2009 Audi A3 2.0T DSG S-Line: HPA Stage 1, HPA DSG Stage 2, APR Carbonio Intake, S2T Paddle Shifters, ST Coilovers...

  35. #35
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    As sure as the sun rises, there exists one performance modification that was inevitably going to be added to my 2009 Audi A3, the S2T Performance DSG paddle shifters.

    I drive my A3 exclusively in Manual mode. So, I use my OEM paddle shifters a lot. I think it is because I use them so often is the reason I feel that there should be some improvements made to the OEM construction and design. With the HPA DSG Stage 2 upgrade installed and the transmission performing perfectly, I need, absolutely need, the best paddle shifters to compliment the DSG’s performance.
    I believe the S2T Performance paddle shifters are the perfect paddle shifter.

    The Audi OEM paddle shifters are functional and extremely enjoyable to use but, I believe that they should be a little larger and better designed, not just for spirited driving but, also for daily driving, especially at slow-speeds when I am turning and shifting at the same time. In addition, even with the bright finish, the OEM paddle shifters look and feel cheap. So, it would be nice to have a paddle shifter that not only looks and feels great but, also, a quality product which matches the rich interior appointments of the A3.

    The S2T Performance paddle shifters are CNC machined from real aerospace quality 6061 T6 aluminum and they bolt-on, like a real OEM part. Most of the other paddle shifters available for the A3 and other Audi vehicles glue on with adhesive tapes. I’ll admit that there are some really nice and good-looking glue-on paddle shifters but, Screw that! I personally don’t want to ‘glue’ anything on my car. I want a real replacement part, a bolt-on part, a factory-like part, only better.

    I bought a set of S2T Performance paddle shifters in the custom polished clear anodized finish as a special order. The custom hand-polished finish was an extra $40, so they were pricey but, I’ve owned their product before and I know their paddle shifters are worth the cost and the additional expense. Moreover, and perhaps more importantly, their design, CNC machining, craftsmanship, quality, attention-to-detail, execution, and anodized finishes are near flawless.

    It seems that many enthusiasts feel that the installation of the S2T Performance paddle shifters is intimidating and/or, too difficult but, it doesn’t take any special skills, tools, or knowledge to successfully complete the installation. Trusting on my past paddle-shifter-install experience, I was expecting the most time consuming part of this install was going to be disconnecting the negative battery cable and the toughest part being the removal of the steering wheel airbag. But, my install didn’t initially go quite as I had planned...

    The steering wheel airbag and switches were removed easily enough but, when I dissected the OEM shifter switch and installed the S2T shifter, I had a difficult time inserting the pin all the way through the paddle shifter. I had to press both ends of the shifter assembly, at different times, before the pin could be successfully installed. Then, it took some massaging to get the new S2T paddle shifter to mate properly with the plastic OEM switch in order for the whole assembly to ‘click’ as expected (I should also note that I did not reinstall the OEM paddle shifters springs for my installation as instructed…I actually prefer the feel without them installed) but, eventually I got it working. Finally, with the new S2T shifters assembled and functioning, I reinstalled the remaining switches, followed by the final step, the reinstallation of the airbag (my airbag for some reason, decided to give me a rather frustrating fight...but, ultimately, I got it secured and won the fight!).

    My first test drive delivered disappointing results. With the S2T paddles in place, it took way too much force to pull on the paddle shifters to engage each shift. After some additional time behind the wheel, the paddles did begin to loosen and function better but, still not what I wanted, or expected.

    I decided to double-check my install and make sure that I didn’t make some foolish error. Once again, the airbag, switches, and paddles shifters were removed enabling me to inspect my work. I found that both paddle shifters weren’t engaging the OEM switch properly. After some further investigation I found that the contact point on the S2T paddle shifters was not touching the OEM switch like it should. I added several small pieces of stacked electrical tape and stuck them to the contact point on the S2T shifter and…surprise, the S2T paddles work perfectly. Satisfied with my discovery and fix, I reinstalled everything. But, of course, the airbag gave me another fight! It truly doesn’t like me. But, I gave him the business! The bastard!

    My follow-up test drive was a success.
    More on that later…

    The hardest part of the installation was removing and reinstalling the OEM paddle shifter pins and battling with my stubborn airbag (with the exception of having to trouble-shoot the issues I experienced…I notified S2T Performance of my troubles and they sent me a special tape that would replace my electrical tape solution. Cool! Plus, they promised that all future kits would be supplied with it). Believe it or not, the complete installation process took me less than 30 minutes (of course I did have to do it a few times). In the end, easy stuff.

    A couple pics of my hard work!

    Before:

    After:


    And…another after shot:


    The appearance and fitment of the S2T Audi DSG paddle shifters is virtually 100% OEM. The polish clear anodized finish is almost an exact match to the brilliant interior trim found on the steering wheel and elsewhere on the dash and console areas. The new Paddle Shifters really compliment the A3’s interior appointments.
    The S2T paddle shifters feel solid, comfortable, and refined. They engage the factory shifter switch perfectly. Their function is smooth and effortless. They still have the ‘click’ feel but, the engagement is better, more fluid and more natural. Each shift is engaged with confidence, comfort, and precision. The overall paddle shifter design is excellent. You can press anywhere on the paddle shifter and get an immediate response from the shifter switch. With the S2T Performance shifters installed I no longer have to search for the paddles while I’m driving. I don’t have to move my hands around, or shift with my pinky fingers. My fingers always find the S2T paddle shifters in the right place at the right time regardless of the driving situation. That’s what I’m talking about! The S2T paddle shifters should be factory equipment.

    Comparing the S2T Performance paddle shifters with the OEM paddle shifters… Wait! You can’t! The stock paddles are pathetic! They are unusable once you try the S2T paddles. The S2T paddles are in another league, perhaps another world. They are incomparable with the OEM paddles. They are exceedingly better than the OEM paddle shifters in every facet of their creation.

    Furthermore, driving in Manual mode is simply not the same with the S2T paddle shifters installed. These things make driving so much more fun! I am always using the paddles. I’m finding excuses to downshift and reasons to upshift, just for the heck of it! Believe me, with these shifters you will always drive your car in Manual mode! You truly need to see, feel, and experience these paddle shifters in person to really understand how they change and improve the driving experience. They might not make my A3 any faster around a race track but, they really make my driving experience that much more enjoyable. I have a permanent smile on my face every time I drive my A3.

    S2T Performance Products brings together an omnipotent combination of quality, craftsmanship, aesthetics, value, and performance. In my R32 the S2T paddles were my favorite modification. I don’t know if I can put them into that same category with my A3. You see, with the 2.0T, I can’t discount, or begin to tell you how cool it is to be able to gain so much power from a simple Stage 1 ECU Tune, especially for the price. A Stage 1 Tune is the best bang-for-your-buck out there! But, even I can’t use the awesome HPA Stage 1 power all-the-time but, I can use my new S2T paddle shifters all-the-time. So, the S2T paddle shifters are definitely my favorite, non-power modification. I think that is fair.

    If you spend any time driving in Manual mode, I highly recommend a set of S2T Performance paddle shifters.

    Mike
    2009 Audi A3 2.0T DSG S-Line: HPA Stage 1, HPA DSG Stage 2, APR Carbonio Intake, S2T Paddle Shifters, ST Coilovers...

  36. #36
    Active Member Two Rings Small_A3's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 18 2012
    AZ Member #
    104313
    Location
    Southland

    I am not so sure that we can get to 300 WHP by spending only $3000. Check out this guy, he has a 2011 Audi A3 DSG with upgraded K04 turbo, APR software, S3 intercooler, and custom BB downpipe and he is barely "touching" the 250 WHP power level. To get to 300 WHP we probably need more stuff.

    http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=X1ca_pBOP3A

    Regarding the need for upgrading the HPFP in our 2.0TFSI, I found this little nugget: "We found that the stock fuel system maxes out at crank 350HP on 91 octane, which translates to about 15-16 psi max on this turbo kit." From: http://ecodetuning.com/shop/cart.php..._detail&p=1315 So you are again correct Mike, we should be able to go to 300 WHP without paying an extra $1K for the upgraded high pressure fuel pump. My question for you is how much power do you think our cars will make at the wheels with ONLY K04-plus-Software (i.e., skip the DP, new exhaust, HPFP, IC, etc ...)? I doubt it will be 300 WHP but you probably know better than me.

    Regarding the DSG flash, my brief research confirms that HPA is in fact the leader with the most knowledge in this area. But I am still trying to find who has the "right deal" for me because in the case where the Manual Mode is rarely engaged HPA may not be best. I actually find HPA's Stage 3-4 DSG pricing downright outrageous at $2K-$2.5K considering that this kind of money can deliver most of the K04 turbokit upgrade. [But for those who bought it I am sure it's like manna from heaven.] However, I would gladly pay their price for stage 2 if they had improved the D-mode and your review says that they didn't. In fact I just sent them an email on this, looking forward to hearing back. On the other hand the GIAC DSG flash has some descent reviews out there --I haven't found the bad ones yet :-) In fact GIAC pricing is cheaper, they appear to improve all D,S,M modes and have a holiday special at the moment when you buy both their ECU tune and Stage-1 DSG program. On the other hand APR appears to be the leader in ECU reprogramming so I am still trying to figure out what I want to do.
    Last edited by Small_A3; 11-21-2012 at 07:47 PM.

  37. #37
    Senior Member Two Rings A3TOXX's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 21 2009
    AZ Member #
    51029
    Location
    Utah

    Rdrcr's A3 Build Thread.

    I love GIAC, I've ran all the stages up to my K04 I'm running now and will be running the 100 octane program this summer. Unless they want to give it to me for free sooner haha
    06 A3 6speed FWD... Bilstein PSS10's,19" OZ ultraleggars ,Audi Black out grill,Extreme contact DW, BSH PCV block off,BSH TBP,Forge twintake,APR HPFP,AWE 200 count metal DP,S3 K04,S3 FMIC,S3 DV relocation,RS4 Fuel return valve,Defi boost gauge, MKV GTI Interlagos seats and pedals,R8 oil cap,ECS dog bone mount,

  38. #38
    Established Member Two Rings
    Join Date
    May 12 2012
    AZ Member #
    93430
    Location
    Thousand Oaks, CA

    ^^^^^
    I highly recommend the 100 octane software! I'm really looking forward to my W/M upgrade...100 octane...all-the-time!

    Quote Originally Posted by Small_A3 View Post
    I am not so sure that we can get to 300 WHP by spending only $3000. Check out this guy, he has a 2011 Audi A3 DSG with upgraded K04 turbo, APR software, S3 intercooler, and custom BB downpipe and he is barely "touching" the 250 WHP power level. To get to 300 WHP we probably need more stuff.

    Regarding the need for upgrading the HPFP in our 2.0TFSI, I found this little nugget: "We found that the stock fuel system maxes out at crank 350HP on 91 octane, which translates to about 15-16 psi max on this turbo kit." From: http://ecodetuning.com/shop/cart.php..._detail&p=1315 So you are again correct Mike, we should be able to go to 300 WHP without paying an extra $1K for the upgraded high pressure fuel pump. My question for you is how much power do you think our cars will make at the wheels with ONLY K04-plus-Software (i.e., skip the DP, new exhaust, HPFP, IC, etc ...)? I doubt it will be 300 WHP but you probably know better than me.

    Regarding the DSG flash, my brief research confirms that HPA is in fact the leader with the most knowledge in this area. But I am still trying to find who has the "right deal" for me because in the case where the Manual Mode is rarely engaged HPA may not be best. I actually find HPA's Stage 3-4 DSG pricing downright outrageous at $2K-$2.5K considering that this kind of money can deliver most of the K04 turbokit upgrade. [But for those who bought it I am sure it's like manna from heaven.] However, I would gladly pay their price for stage 2 if they had improved the D-mode and your review says that they didn't. In fact I just sent them an email on this, looking forward to hearing back. On the other hand the GIAC DSG flash has some descent reviews out there --I haven't found the bad ones yet :-) In fact GIAC pricing is cheaper, they appear to improve all D,S,M modes and have a holiday special at the moment when you buy both their ECU tune and Stage-1 DSG program. On the other hand APR appears to be the leader in ECU reprogramming so I am still trying to figure out what I want to do.
    I can’t access that link from work…

    AWD?

    Due to the additional drivetrain losses, the AWD’s always produce lower numbers on a dyno when compared to a FWD. The AWD bragging-rights come on the track when the comparable FWD car is smoking the tires and screaming for traction.

    On a FWD car, 300WHP/300WTQ is attainable with a K04 setup (with software), intake, intercooler, down-pipe, exhaust, and either W/M or 100 octane.
    Considering what my car currently produces, I don’t think I’ll have too much trouble achieving the 300WHP mark with the HPA K04 setup, S3 intercooler, down-pipe, and W/M (I'm not doing exhaust).

    Don’t hold your breath for APR's DSG software. They’ve been saying for years that they are going to release DSG software but, they never do. Eventually, one of these days it will happen but, in the meantime, I’d suggest going with another Tuner if you want the programming. In your case, I’d definitely recommend the GIAC or, Unitronic DSG software.

    Mike
    2009 Audi A3 2.0T DSG S-Line: HPA Stage 1, HPA DSG Stage 2, APR Carbonio Intake, S2T Paddle Shifters, ST Coilovers...

  39. #39
    Active Member Two Rings Small_A3's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 18 2012
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    104313
    Location
    Southland

    Mike,

    I would really like to get your input on getting myself to "Stage-1" in the next few days. Right now my 1st choice is to marry APR ECU + GIAC DSG given the "fully loaded Stage-1" APR holiday sale just announced at $599: http://www.goapr.com/news/2012/11/22...december-31st/ I am certainly not waiting on APR to release DSG S/W and currently leaning to GIAC for that part. But here is my current list in the order of preference:

    (1) APR ECU flash + GIAC DSG flash (Stage-1) --Current Top Choice

    (2) APR ECU flash + HPA DSG flash (Stage-2) --Waiting on Kier's reply re: D-mode improvement

    (3) GIAC ECU flash + GIAC DSG flash (Stage-1) --Combines same-company products at "nice" price

    (4) HPA ECU flash + HPA DSG flash (Stage-2) --Mike's choice, most expensive option

    (5) APR ECU flash + NO DSG flash (Wait for APR's DSG S/W) --Baby steps

    In a few months I will most likely be adding the K04 turbo upgrade and the APR kit seems to be the most mature so ease-of-upgrading to that is a factor in my Stage-1 thoughts above.

    As for fuel I will almost always be running 91-gas, no methanol stuff or tinkering with octane mixtures like a chemical engineer. Too much of a cheapskate to be running race gas all the time at $8.50/gal and too chicken to mesh with W/M. I might just have to ultimately settle for 250 WHP as the ultimate goal for this car since reliability and day-to-day driveability is a major concern.

    Anyway, I would very much like your input on my stage-1 thoughts above.

    PS: I am surprised you are at work today, everyone I know has taken off the day-after-Thxgiving :-)

  40. #40
    Established Member Two Rings
    Join Date
    May 12 2012
    AZ Member #
    93430
    Location
    Thousand Oaks, CA

    ^^^^^
    You are going to love Stage 1...any Stage 1!

    I really like my HPA software and highly recommend it but, for your needs...
    I’d recommend your #3 choice first because you would be utilizing the same software for both the ECU and DSG. However, #1 (or, #5) would be a great choice too simply because APR is a one-stop-shop for your future upgrade path.
    But, don’t hesitate on GIAC since they do offer K04 Tuning. I believe, overall, they are the best choice for your needs. The golfmk6.com forum is a great place to research the different Tuning companies including the K04 upgrade. I’m sure you will find many favorable reviews for GIAC tuning and their K04 upgrade software.

    I will look forward to your K04 upgrade. And, please share your feedback with the community once you have the opportunity to thoroughly evaluate the upgrade.

    Unfortunately for HPA, I fear Keir will tell you that Stage 3 is required to get any improvements in D mode.

    I agree that running race gas is too expensive. It’s $8.50 per gallon in my area too. I can understand your position on W/M. Running W/M does require additional maintenance and adds complexity to any setup but, I’ve ran it in my past couple cars with great success and I can’t give it up. I love the cooler intake temperatures and running the equivalent of race gas all the time.

    Yeah, some of my fellow coworkers took today off so I had to work (our waiter at Ruth's Chris said the same thing last night regarding having to work today...LOL).

    Mike
    2009 Audi A3 2.0T DSG S-Line: HPA Stage 1, HPA DSG Stage 2, APR Carbonio Intake, S2T Paddle Shifters, ST Coilovers...

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