DIY: aftermarket bixenon ecodes - better than OEM for less

[Matt Devo]

apologies to revive this, but unless there is a better more current headlight setup, I picked to do this mod since my front left headlight housing is cracked and causing severe corrosion.

can I do this mod with the version 6.0 Morimoto Stage III HID? specifically refering to post #107. I have all parts ordered but the TRS HID kit. thank you kindly

there is no issue with the v6 projectors, especially if you use the mounting brackets that TRS now offers

apologies, i have to be missing something. why not the ones linked in the OP? are all the other parts on part list necessary? I do need new housings as my left front is damaged hence me looking into upgrading current. thank you .

TRS now offers a kit specific for the B6 A4 which includes the mounting brackets so you don't have to make them yourself. I'll update the OP with this info

shame they didn't copy the design of the S4 headlight. the larger lens looks so much better on the car. BTW Thanks for the very informative write up and information everybody!

since it's designed as a retrofit for the stock (and some aftermarket) housings, a 2.5" projector is required, unless you plan on completely tearing apart the housings and replacing the projector shroud.

[screwball]

For $275 + shipping you can't really beat the performance of this kit.

[gmudan]

Here's a free shipping code for TRS. not sure if it still works.
TRSRCFS

[brady.]

super excited for this mod.

does a cover for the ballast still need to be fabricated? would the shared templates still work? also I read that the lenses are clear, but some boast they are fresnel? in which reduce output by 25% (again I read this, unsure how accurate). do I need to order clear lenses?

do we still need all the above parts in partlist?

^ thats every single question I have. I promise. Really. Kudos .


EDIT: okay im a really bad liar, when selecting the options on page, do I have to select all the drop downs or are these "upgrades?"

*specifically the ballast, do I need to do the $100+? I only care about light output. if it takes 5-6 seconds to turn on, no big deal to me.
*harness, do I leave unselected or select the 9006 canbus?
*if I select no light bulbs, will I not get charged for them? Already ordered the ones linked in OP. Are the H1 XB35 bulbs better? Again I want light output so if better then I will fork up the money.

Okay, now kudos! you guys da best. *thumbs up*

[ponchiz]

Oem lenses are fresnel. Trs will only send you clear tsx-r lenses built into the morimoto minis. Don't know about the ballasts first hand so I can't comment on that.

[brady.]

just read your updated OP, thank you matt. my only question now is if the kit comes with a ballast cover and do you suggest I reinforce the housing as mentioned in page 2? super stoked for this. thank you thank you thank you .

[screwball]

I jammed the ballasts and wiring into my housing. Not exactly ideal, but no bulb out errors that way and they've held up through both a nasty summer and nastier winter.

[ZipMeUpJ]

the ballasts will fit in the housings with some manuevering. No canbus is needed. If you choose no bulbs you will get charged what it says not the extra 25 or 40 for xb35. the xb35 (via feedback on hidplanet) are not worth it any more after the update this year, stay with the regular bulbs. TRS doesn't provide a ballast cover for the housings

[Matt Devo]

just read your updated OP, thank you matt. my only question now is if the kit comes with a ballast cover and do you suggest I reinforce the housing as mentioned in page 2? super stoked for this. thank you thank you thank you .

you need the covers if you have xenon housings with the exposed bottom, or if you have halogens and drill a hole there for the ballasts. There's no template for the bottom covers that I'm aware of, but it's easy to measure and cut a rectangle. I might even have some spare pre-cut pieces available. I would not recommend putting the ballasts inside the housing as others have done due to heat and reduced adjustment range of the projector.

If you are using Depo housings, reinforcing the tabs where the metal retaining clips attach is mandatory if you don't want them to break.

[old guy]

Definitely reinforce the tabs. I have the Halogen housings and I was able to cut an opening between the bottom ballast pocket and the interior of the housing and insert the ballasts and igniters inside the housings. Fabricated a cover as Matt described and now everything is contained inside. No problems with adjusting the projectors and so far heat hasn't been an issue. Had 'em a little over a year.

[Fast4esT]

in regards to reinforcing the depo rear cover tabs, if you resuse your stock halogen covers, they fit alot easier and dont require any further modification.

[old guy]

in regards to reinforcing the depo rear cover tabs, if you resuse your stock halogen covers, they fit alot easier and dont require any further modification.

I'm not sure I agree with that. I have a collection of OEM, Depo and AJ Auto housing covers. I've tried them all at one time or another. The plastic used in the Helix/Depo/AJ Auto housings is just simply inferior to the OEM stuff. The tab reinforcement is so easy to do there is no reason not to do it as a preventive step.

[JAYINH]

Just wanted to add that I started install the TRS B6 kit into a new set of helix/depo housings last night. the supplied adaptors were spot on but I did have to enlarge the three mounting holes alot to install the new projector into the housing. debating on where to install the ballast...with the morimoto ballast under the housing it will protrude lower than the housing itself when a cover is made..does this matter? also I am going to reinforce the clip areas now vs later

[Matt Devo]

debating on where to install the ballast...with the morimoto ballast under the housing it will protrude lower than the housing itself when a cover is made..does this matter?

they shouldn't, unless the ballast design has changed significantly from the ones I have. Just look at the pics in the OP

[JAYINH]

^^ Thanks Matt, I looked at the pics in the front part of this thread and realized my new housings have the ballast area separated from the interior of the housing. I going to cut the floor out and have plenty of room.

Props to you for this right up, tons of info on this here...thanks

[therealet23]

Any update on this? I have OEM bixenons in by b6 and one of the corner lenses is cracked (and condensation, O-ring mod has been done already) so I am thinking about going down this route again to get the Depo Ecodes and Mini H1 6.0. My last experience (also in this thread) wasn't the best and I found that my OEM single xenon projectors were way better (width and especially distance) than my Mini H1 setup.

This time, I plan to legitimately get everything from TRS and I was curious to know if anyone could comment on the distance and through of the mini 6.0? I would prefer the mini d2s 3.0 but I do not believe there is a bracket yet available for it.

Thoughts? Pictures? Proof?

[JUSADUB]

I need to get mine aimed right and post pictures. I did mini H1 4300k which I should of done 5000k.

[therealet23]

I need to get mine aimed right and post pictures. I did mini H1 4300k which I should of done 5000k.

Did you ever get a chance to aim them correctly and take the pictures?

[therealet23]

Does anyone have a set of Depo Ecode Headlights for a b6? I have all the mini h1 components ready to do the swap and come to find out that they are sold out on ebay.

I have found a blacked out ecode set that will work, but I am not sure how they will look on Nogaro:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/02-05-AUDI-A..._qi=RTM1562569

Thoughts?

[Matt Devo]

Does anyone have a set of Depo Ecode Headlights for a b6? I have all the mini h1 components ready to do the swap and come to find out that they are sold out on ebay.

I have found a blacked out ecode set that will work, but I am not sure how they will look on Nogaro:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/02-05-AUDI-A..._qi=RTM1562569

Thoughts?

http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthrea...E-d1s-housings

[therealet23]

http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthrea...E-d1s-housings

Yeah those aren't for sale anymore... Guy wants to keep them.

[therealet23]

Bump.

I ordered:

Depo/Helix ecode headlights
7507 chrome bulbs
H6w LEDs (they came in a pack of 20 so if anyone wants a set PM me)
Mini H1 6.0
Mini H1 adapters
H1 5000k Xenon Kit

Hopefully in a week I so, I will have a positive review with pictures.

[therealet23]

Just completed this...

Very very impressive set up! I haven't checked but I believe that my oem Bi-xenon bowls are burnt because there is a monolithic difference in the two! I adjusted the lights as best as I could against a wall and took a little drive....WOW! For such a small projector, I am surprised at the distance and width of the Mini H1 6.0.

I have had bosch projectors, valeo d2s, valeo d1s, valeo d1s bixenon, fxr 1.1, fxr 3.0, Generic Mini H1, and Mini H1 6.0

I would say the FXRs definitely take the top prize (more width - 1.1 and distance - 3.0) but the mini h1 6.0s are a close second especially considering their easy installation in most applications.

[ZipMeUpJ]

see why they stayed with me lol

[Alpina7]

just bought an 05 s4 b6 that has aftermarket headlights with halogens, i know my car came factory with HIDS so the question is if i wanted to do this mod (which i want to. right now) what would i need to make this work? how can i find out if i still have the Leveling motors or are they in the headlights?

also looking at the retro kit, they dont list the XB35 5000K anymore, only the XB35 4300K bulb..... will this make a huge diff? should i go with another bulb?

thanks in advance for the info

[ZipMeUpJ]

From many posts on HIDplanet the xb35 bulbs arent worth the extra money. 4300k will give you oem HID color and color change, 5000k is closer to pure white. Color is preference but 4300k will give you the brightest output at 35w. Leveling motors didnt come in halogens, but look behind he highbeam cover and see if its there. If your car came factory with HIDs then all you need is the motor in the headlight since you will have the sensors in the wheels already. Everything else is in the OP post.

[Alpina7]

From many posts on HIDplanet the xb35 bulbs arent worth the extra money. 4300k will give you oem HID color and color change, 5000k is closer to pure white. Color is preference but 4300k will give you the brightest output at 35w. Leveling motors didn't come in halogens, but look behind he highbeam cover and see if its there. If your car came factory with HIDs then all you need is the motor in the headlight since you will have the sensors in the wheels already. Everything else is in the OP post.

ok thank you! so just get the 3five 5000k instead of the xb35 4300's then?

and ok so basically if they replaced the headlamps with aftermarket ones then the leveling motors would have been inside the OEM headlight?

does it make a big difference running without the auto leveling or is that something i can add since the sensors in the wheels are probably still there...? (hopefully they didn't cut too many wires when they went to replace the headlights and rewire them. ill take pics and post if it helps)

do i need the canbus 9006 harness?

sorry for all the questions, trying to wrap all this around my mind so i can get to ordering the right parts and doing this the right way. got a trip to the mountains coming up in December and don't wanna be stuck with the ugly yellow halogens that i have now.

[ZipMeUpJ]

the bulb temp is up to you, if you want to try the xb35 bulbs yourself you can lol. I havent but i read enough on that forum to see I didn't want them. PO could have swapped in the leveling motors into the new housings; check. Leveling motors aren't really necessary, but if you want them you want them.

From the suspension redux thread, its the blue thing. I forget which rear side its on, and theres another on one of the front wheels.

* be mindful of the break components and whatnot… speaking of which, hang on a sec

* take a good look in your left side wheel well and find this… your vehicle level control sensor; for the most part its out of the way but wanted to point it out now before you start messin about in there; I didn't find the need to disconnect it but figured it was worth mentioning cause some of you get all boss hog on suspension components

With the TRS hid kits you dont need the canbus, just the ballasts and bulbs.

You will love the set up over halogen. 100% fact.

[JUSADUB]

I did trs 4300k bulbs and I hate them. I don't like how look, I should of gotten 5000k.

[ZipMeUpJ]

I've always used 5000k bulbs but I switched down to 4300k for the retro this time to get a better color band. I get pretty good blue/purple at the cut off without any mods. But I recently swapped everything into ecodes and the 4300k isn't looking good with the led city lights. I can't find h6w leds in 4300 to match so I might go back to 5k cuz I have too many colors in the front with my halogen fogs

[JUSADUB]

Which brand 5000k did you use? I tried some cheap ebay ones and they look like 6000k so I took them out.

[ZipMeUpJ]

I've used both morimoto and cheap Chinese ones. The cheap ones usually warm to 6000k and get dinner after a while, way sooner than the morimoto kind. Trs usually has some B-stock bulbs they sell for like $10. I think those are the same cheap Chinese ones Idk

[Alpina7]

the bulb temp is up to you, if you want to try the xb35 bulbs yourself you can lol. I havent but i read enough on that forum to see I didn't want them. PO could have swapped in the leveling motors into the new housings; check. Leveling motors aren't really necessary, but if you want them you want them.

From the suspension redux thread, its the blue thing. I forget which rear side its on, and theres another on one of the front wheels.





With the TRS hid kits you dont need the canbus, just the ballasts and bulbs.

You will love the set up over halogen. 100% fact.

yes i am going to do this hopefully in the next month! keep yall updated

I've used both morimoto and cheap Chinese ones. The cheap ones usually warm to 6000k and get dinner after a while, way sooner than the morimoto kind. Trs usually has some B-stock bulbs they sell for like $10. I think those are the same cheap Chinese ones Idk

im going with their 3five 5000K bulbs.

[JUSADUB]

Anyone having problem with the bulbs not seating right?

[ZipMeUpJ]

Does one of your beams not have a crisp cut off starting really close to the step? My driver side beam fades considerably about a food on the right side of the step. Ive been thinking its the bulb not seating right. The passenger bulb is crisp from end to end so you dont really notice it

[BerNur]

does anyone have any tips on installing the leveling motors in these ecodes? also god damn these things fog up

[Matt Devo]

does anyone have any tips on installing the leveling motors in these ecodes? also god damn these things fog up

what part are you having trouble with? They install the same as in OEM housings - 1/4 turn to lock them in place. Try putting a desiccant pack in the back of the main cover.

[BerNur]

what part are you having trouble with? They install the same as in OEM housings - 1/4 turn to lock them in place. Try putting a desiccant pack in the back of the main cover.

I'm having trouble with getting the ball part in the white slot. Looks like the metal piece is short im not sure if I have to install the motor and apply power to get the pin forward. Unfortunately I broke one motor already so I purchased another one looks slightly different but im gonna try and see if it works tonight.. Will post back later

[5spdJunkie]

With every post I get even more confused.

I have stock halogen. The new trs link says their kit is designed to replace the old halogen projector. Do I really need the depo ecode housings? Trs also says they are bixenon. Does that mean the projector light has two filaments for high beams, or do I need a new xenon bulb for the reflector light?

[ZipMeUpJ]

TRS sells the kit: projector, and lighting. It can be swapped into your halogen housing or the depo housing. It replaces the projector and low beam bulb in both of those. High beam bulb stays the same.